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I have a 2018 Ford Fusion SE. I've been noticing lately that the gear shift knob at times seems to turn tight. It seems more apparent when the cart is "warmed up". First thing in the morning it seems ok. Just started doing this in the last month or so. Car currently has 24,000 miles. Any thoughts? I was going to bring it to my dealer to show them, but thought I'd ask you guys first. Thanks

I'll try to be brief as possible: I recently had my clutch replaced. Shortly after replacement, i was shifting to 5th and it felt 'spongy' (for lack of a better word). The feeling came and went, but i never had any issues shifting into gear. Today, i shifted from 4th to 5th and nothing, the car acted like it wasn't in gear and the shifter flopped back to center. It went back into 4th and i was able to continue on (thankfully i was close to home). Now the selector will randomly go into 1st, and 5th or not. I was finally able to identify the cable (linkage?) is bending when its fully extended for 1st/5th gear right where it comes out of the support bracket and the rubber boot starts. I can feel a metal collar or such under the rubber boot sliding back and forth, so when it fully extends for 1st/5th gear, it's far enough away from the support bracket that the cable underneath has no support and flexes, thus not providing enough rigidity to get the transmission into gear. I can manually shift the gears with my hand and i don't feel any binding. Can anybody tell me if something broke and the whole cable needs replaced or can it be adjusted to fix? I've seen mixed comments on cable replacement (take out the whole dash or not). Haynes manual talks about draining A/C and heater coil like the whole dash would need to come out. Is that true for a 2006 or could i do it over the weekend? 2006 Ford Fusion - manual transmission (obviously). PS - the car has 236K miles, so i'm sure the mechanic will say wear/tear, but it sure is coincidental that it happened right after being serviced. If it's broke, could they have bent/damaged it while removing the transmission? Thanks in advance for any advice.

Hello all, I was wondering if anyone might be able to provide some insight or if I am worrying about nothing. I have had a 2016 Ford Fusion for a few months that I bought new in March. I just noticed recently that when I put the car in gear I feel it shift and start to grab, feels like it is a little rough for about a second or so, then I feel the car jump a little again and it is in gear then. I don't remember if it was doing this before and just didn't notice it previously. I don't hear any bad sounds or anything or have noticed any other drive ability problem. The only other minor thing to note that I have noticed is that when the car is cold, the first shift it makes from 1st into 2nd seems to be a bit rough. The car only has about 3.5 k miles on it at this time and have had the oil changed about 1.5k miles ago. Is this something I need to worry about and take it back to the dealer for or is this something that I am just over thinking about. Sorry if this seems to be a simple question but this is the first new car I have ever had. With my previous Taurus I was usually looking to fix stuff that I knew was breaking as I got that car used. Any input that you can provide on this I would greatly appreciate. Thank you for your time. Regards, TheArtiszan

Just bought a used 2010 Ford Fusion SE with 171k miles. When we test drove it it ran smooth. When I checked the tranny stick it was dry. No leaks though. Dealer added tranny fluid when we purchased it. Since we bought it, we have noticed shifting from 1st to 2nd and to 3rd feels a little hard or kicks...like a manual. Is this normal? I have read a few topics here about it and most say it is normal. I had my mechanic check it our before we bought it and said everything looks good. When I recently checked the tranny stick (after dealer added fluid) I noticed the fluid is dark pink but does not smell burnt. Is that normal too? Thinking on getting a tranny flush and new fluid to see if that helps. Any ideas or suggestions?

What I have: 13' FF FWD 2.0t Ecoboost mostly stock. K&N stock replacement filter and a turbo thrush w/ 3" inlet pipe 1 in 2 out (someone had a y pipe with muffler delete and burnt up the water pump thinking they were on Fast n Furious... so I fixed it so I could hear and got some back pressure) It has the hard shift between 2-3 that so many have. What its used for: My wife and I Uber and this is a select vehicle(uber black minus the black on black and additional fee) as well as most of the year I put a 32' ladder and 22 collapsible. We drive about 30k miles a year so MPG and 87 octane is big for us but I also want it to have an enjoyable mode. I am willing to run 91 on the fun days or road trips. What I want to do: Total price has to be under $700 I looked into spaces and as a mechanic(15+ years) I just want the best for my needs, results for $. Sound Symposer delete while running that open line to exterior air (only if it adds more airflow). Steeda Recommends "Denso ITV22" and I need new plugs any advice (copper, iridium...) ive always used motorcraft on ford but this is a different kind of ford. I have 60k miles so im gonna clean up throttle body too. Has new trans fluid and axle seals recently replace. I would like to install a better blow off valve (i like the sound but its not a big deal) So i would like to know your opinion. I just want something that may be a little more up to mild tuning standards recirculated or not lets her ideas Add the BIG question whats some feedback from similar setups COBB, MOUNTUNE, or Livernois and why. I was steered away from SCT with the X4 mainly due to the ability to have a few tunes that can be set via steering controls instead of pulling over and uploading a new program (keep this in mind, steering wheel integration is preferred). I have done a lot of research into this but I am new to tuning and ford fusions. My past has been with diagnoses and repair of mainly NA engines. Having said that I am a quick learn and great with computers. Ultimately I would love to just run my computer directly to the car but i understand that the cheapest/safest way is going to be using a v3 port along with people that have dynos. I don't expect the right answer, only honest opinions and I hope to know that they are based on person review. Let me know what you think, and Thanks in advance. FYI I have the premium 18" 20 spoke polished aluminum rims that I don't want So let me know if your looking for some, may even trade. I like 16's maybe 17 they are $$cheaper for rubber