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Found 5 results

  1. Hello all. I have a 2009 mercury milan Premier with 8 speakers and a factory amp. I have replaced the stock HU with an aftermarket one Pioneer AVH4100NEX, i have also replaced the two rear deck 6x9 speakers with pioneer ones. I've added a Pioneer amp and Sub, everything works great however, i no longer have control of the factory amp so i am installing another one, nothing big, just something to control the 6x9's in the deck. I want to retain the factory wire harness that goes to that amp but don't know what wire does what. Anything i see on the internet as far as wire diagrams go does not include the diagram going to the factory amp. I know which plug is for the speaker out put and which is the power, and i have a vague idea which wire is the accessory wire for the factory amp. Anyone have any ideas where i can get the correct diagram from? Or if you have one atleast let me know which wire is which before i blow something other than a fuse. Thanks.
  2. It is a 2010 ford fusion hyrbid. I've gotten behind the radio and found the harness but I'm not sure which wires to tap into for the LOC. I have pictures of the harness if that helps at all.
  3. So I've decided to install my old subs/amp that I used in my 2001 Ford escort zx2 into my new 2012 ford fusion SEL. I want to do so using the existing stock radio. My younger brother gave me a box with 2 10" Sony Xplods 1100 watt and a crappy alpine amp. But who am I to complain about free stuff!?! That's all I know about the subs, the screws are stripped hardcore. So, it wouldn't be easy to look at the backs... The amp stopped working for god know why, so I purchased a BOSS Phantom 2000 watt amp. Ph2.1000. Here's a link to one that's similar to mine: http://www.amazon.com/BOSS-Audio-PH2-1000-2000-watts-Amplifier/dp/B0032FOKT2 (2) 10" Sony Xplod 1100w (1) BOSS Phantom PH2.1000 2000w (S/N: 18878163) (1) 2 10" speaker Box My Fusion is from what I counted a 10 speaker sony sound system with a basic unit (non-nav screen). They said it was an 8 speaker from the Nissan dealership, but like I said, I counted 10. My brother installed the old system in my old car with an aftermarket radio and a random wiring harness. He hooked his up and helped a few of his friends so I just left it up to him. It didn't turn out great haha. It sounded good but we had to install a toggle switch and things such as my rear defrost stopped working so I knew something wasn't right. It slowly drained the battery, but it was just my highschool car so to me it didn't matter. SO, now i'm asking for guidance from you guys. I want to install myself, I want to do it clean and easy. It's what I think a rather small system and that's all I want. No competition system for me! I appreciate any sort of information!! Thank You!
  4. After spending a considerable amount of time researching on how I wanted to upgrade my system, I thought to post my results. I first replaced my rear door speakers with Infinity 5x7, and front doors with JBL component speakers. They are 6x8, I should also add both sets are rated at 2 ohm. I will later post some pictures on how the front ones went as far as cross over and tweeters. Replacing subs is a whole different animal. I didn't want to cut the deck and putting a box in the trunk was not an option. I wanted to utilize the trunk space when I travel. I managed to find a post where somebody had taken the leap to use 6x9 subs made by CDT. He had mounted them under the deck, this method works. Matter of fact it's the only way it will work without cutting the deck. I used the factory tabs and screws. The hardest part is mounting. With both back seats down, climb in and lay on your back, get comfortable, you gonna be there for awhile. I did this after I had already mounted the amp which is on the back of the passenger side back seat. Looking back it would have been a little more comfortable to mount speakers first. To get the most out of the amp, I ran the speakers parallel down to a 2 ohm load. The white plug to the left of the brake pedal about 8 inches up works great. I wasn't gonna be able to knock out as others recommended, due to a module behind it in the engine bay. This meant even if i got it out, there was no way I could get it back in because it has to go back in through the engine bay. So I drilled a small hole as a guide (through the white plastic plug), then a larger one for the power wire. I did this using a cordless drill, not hard at all to get too. The door sills are a pain. I used gloves that had gripping and pulled up. The pillar between front and back door stayed in place, and I used a coat hanger to get it through. This same coat hanger was also used to pull up the power wire from behind the module in the engine bay. The amp is a Kicker 250.1 mono, the RCA inputs can be used as HI or LOW input. ( I used the HI using the connectors from Crutchfield to plug in the speaker outs). The gain is turned all the way down and I'm not using bass boost. While the bass is not earth shattering it's a major improvement to the factory system. I listen mostly to heavy metal to classic rock so hard hitting tight bass drums is what I was looking for. If more bass is needed these 6x9 subs will not be the ticket. 6 1/2 subs will not be able to move enough air and if you're gonna go bigger you might as well get atleast a 10 inch and be done with it. Note: with this setup is the first time I ever used the "COMPRESSOR ON". The amp pushes alot of power for these speaker and CD's are burned to produce the loudest volume, so peaks in the bass might make the speakers "pop".
  5. Hey guys just got the sound system in. This is part 3 in the vids. Be sure to check out the other parts to see the build. Don't forget to subscribe if you like what you see.
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