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I have a 2015 Fusion SE with the 202A equipment. I REALLY need the wiring diagram for everything in the center stack, I am trying to put a line output converter on, and I cannot find any diagrams that match anything that is behind the stereo. Could anyone direct me to correct diagrams for the 202A package?? I have the 8 Inch Sync Display.

Hey guys i needed help with something. So I've got a 2016 fusion SE FWD, it has the tech package with heated front seats and the fully motorized seats. I'm purchasing leather seats out of a 2019 AWD fusion titanium that has the same motorized controls but both heated and cooled seats. Does anyone know if this will be plug and play for the whole process or will i need to do some work with the wiring to make everything work? I don't necessarily need cooled seats but if its no extra work besides downloading the new sync program to control them I'd do it. Also i know with the old models the rear seats from the AWD dont fit in the FWD cars but is it the same for the new model fusions, and will i have to fabricate something to get them to fit? Thank you all in advance!

I have a 2010 Fusion SE. I was able to get my hands on leather seats from a 2010 SEL, my question is, does the se come prewired for a powered passenger seat? Can’t tell by looking before removing existing factory seat...

Last summer, I decided I wanted to put (kind of) stock trunk deck subwoofers in my 2006 Fusion SEL. I found a wiring diagram explaining where everything went and we (my dad and I) followed that wiring diagram. Instead of using stock subwoofers for the Fusion generation (2006-2009), I found two subwoofers, Sony, from a 2011 Fusion, same size as the stock ones, 6x9. I couldn't find any stock subwoofers (Audiophile) anywhere. But we used the stock amplifier from the 2006-2009 generation. Before all this, I bought a 2008 Mercury Milan Navigation unit, so it had the 8-pin connection for the amplifier on the back ready to go unlike the unit I had before. I went to a local junkyard and got the connections for the Navigation unit and connections for the actual amp. I bought, one of two, amplifiers on eBay. We followed the diagram exactly, connected the power wire to the fuse box and nothing. We're certain the subs work because we tested them beforehand. After that, I just quit because I thought it was the amplifier, so last week, I bought another one and the same thing, nothing worked. Anyone have any ideas? Could it be that we mixed subwoofers from a 2011 Fusion with an amp from a 2009 Fusion? Also, does anyone know what "Enable CUP" means on the diagram, the VIO/RED one going to the amp? I inserted the wiring diagram.

How do I wire strip led’s as daytime running lights for my 2014 Ford Fusion. Ideally I’d like them to stay on anytime I have the car on so I’m not sure if there is a specific way to wire them or not. Any help would be appreciated.

I was wondering how difficult it would be to install Fog Lights into my 2014 Fusion SE. I currently just have the plastic placeholders in place of where the fog lights should be. Does my car already have the wiring for the fog lights or would I also need to buy and redo all the wiring? How difficult would this be to buy everything and try to install myself? Would love some help and some clarification. Any input is greatly appreciated! ~ Bryson

What are the wire colors that go to the third brake light on a 2011 Ford Fusion SE?

Hey everyone, Just got a few requests if anyone comes up with a few parts that you'd be willing to sell for my second generation Fusion. Here's a list of the stuff I'm currently looking around for: - Fog Lights (bezel, switch in car, lights, possibly wiring) - Dual Exhaust Trim underneath rear bumper (Looking to make my car more aesthetically appealing, currently have the single exhaust) Feel free to reach out if you come a crossed these parts, I'm currently living in Grand Rapids Michigan.

Hello, My sons car is a 2012 Fusion SE. we have recently started having an issue with the door ajar chime/light. It is intermittently blinking on the dash and chiming. We have opened and closed each door, it registers appropriate for that. However, after driving we noticed a trend. It only goes off if you go above 45mph. Not once does it alarm if you go under that. It seems that the faster you drive the more rapidly it goes of; blinks and alarms with the chime. I believe it must be a wiring issue? We have checked the boot outside of the drivers door by the frame, don’t see anything wrong there. Has anyone ever had this issue? Are there any ideas? I should also mention that we recently had a new motor put in, but didn’t notice anything right away. Then shortly after we had a thermostat, battery and water pump replaced. This is when we noticed it. Could this be related? I would love feedback. This is unbearable. Thank you!

Anyone know where I can find a wiring diagram for the power driver seat? My seat is stuck and im trying to figure out the issue. MY earlier post explaining the issue can be found here.

I was wondering if anyone has any experience in installing Oracle Halo's in their factory headlights and/or fog lights. My question is geared towards the wiring aspect. Can anyone walk me through how to wire these into my factory harnesses. I am trying to avoid having to use a secondary switch to operate them. Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks!

Hello! I am trying to add my subwoofer to my 2014 fusion se with the MFT system. I DONT have the premium sound with the rear deck lid speakers. I was gonna use a line out converter to get the signal for my amp and i was thinking that the wiring harness for the rear deck speakers would still be there but I cannot seem to locate it after pulling out the siding of the trunk. I did find a 12 pin clip that wasnt hooked up to anything and I think that that might be it. Its located almost under the rear passenger seat. does anyone know if that would be the right connector? What would the color of the speaker wires be if it is? Also if that is not the right connector does anyone know the color of the speaker wires comming out of the rear doors (not the tweeter wires)? Any help would be great!

Hey guys I recently installed a HID system and last night all of a sudden my headlights turned off. Found a blown fuses for both sides. Replaced them and they blew immediately. I need help with a wiring diagram or where I should potentially look?? What could cause this? A short to ground?? I recently installed a stereo system and tapped into the stereo harness and battery for the amps. Prior to this I had installed OPT7 HID's for the headlights and fog lights. No issues with the headlights or fog lights for almost two months. I recently installed the stereo system and had it installed for about a week or so soldering the speaker connections behind the dash and ensuring each wire was wrapped tightly individually with electrical tape and then bundled together very carefully. Only thing I can think of is somehow damaged a wire while trying to feed the power wire for the amp through the firewall grommet behind and to the right of the PCM.... But I NEED a wiring diagram to trace the circuit otherwise I'm dead in the water!!!! PLEASE help as I have a graveyard shift job I start Monday that's 35 miles away! I have a 2012 fusion SE with the 2.5 56,000 miles. OPT7 HIDs LED Turn signals with resistors aftermarket speakers, amp, line out converter, subwoofer, sub amp. Edited by B18c5si, Today, 02:53 AM.

does anyone know if the ignition harness current is high or low? low current would be less than 3A on the CONSTANT 12V, low current would be less than 3A on the GROUND low current would be less than 1A on the STARTER 12V thanks in advance. I've been trying to acquire this info by googling for over 12 hours now.

I have a 2010 Ford Fusion SEL with the Sony System. I am wanting to add an aftermarket amp and subwoofer on top of the subs in the back deck behind the rear seats. I already know that there are two factory amps powering the door speaker and the subs. I was thinking about using the AudioControl LC2i to take the signal and convert it to RCA connections. But where would I take the signal from?

Long story short- I need to re-wire a new MAP sensor on my '11 2.5L Fusion. Color chart would be great, or even a picture of the wires on your cars engine would be great Note: the sensor has 4 wires but I can only find 3 wires to hook it up to. One wire may be unused! Edit: the pics need to be rotated 90°

Does anyone know the wiring code of passive anti theft system for 2012 FORD FUSION ? I especially want to know which one is 12V power for the system and which one is (-) instant trigger input. I'd like to wire up a backup battery.

I'd like to install a SCANNERS theft deterrence on my 2012 ford fusion. Does anyone know which wire is grounded when the factory antitheft system is armed? Or, which wire is grounded when the engine is off? Thanks.

Last summer (2012) I put 8000k HIDs in for my low beams. They worked fine until around September. The driver side light always works but the passenger side will randomly not turn on. When this happens, the ballast makes a short loud buzz and the light fails to ignite. Sometimes (rarely) the light will come on after turning the headlights on and off a couple times. Other times both lights will work perfectly. Sometimes, the light will both work and fail in the same day. I've never had the light turn off while it worked (during driving). Any one have this problem, a solution, or any ideas for this problem? Thanks

Last summer (2012) I put 8000k HIDs in for my low beams. They worked fine until around September. The driver side light always works but the passenger side will randomly not turn on. When this happens, the ballast makes a short loud buzz and the light fails to ignite. Sometimes (rarely) the light will come on after turning the headlights on and off a couple times. Other times both lights will work perfectly. Sometimes, the light will both work and fail in the same day. I've never had the light turn off while it worked (during driving). Any one have this problem, a solution, or any ideas for this problem? Thanks

Last night I installed a new aftermarket head unit in my 2011 Fusion SEL. I thought I might as well take pictures of the process and post them here. Hopefully it helps somebody else out who needs to do something similar. 1. Open the door to the storage box at the top of the console. Remove the rubber mat that's in there, it's secured to the front of the box opening (nearest you) just mess with it and it will make sense. 2. Remove the two bolts that hold it in place. 3. Then Slide the box towards you, the vents sometimes come with the box and sometimes stack back connected to the venting. If you need to adjust or fix the fins now would be a good time. You can unhook the Hazards button and Passenger airbag light at this time but I chose to just keep it connected as I can access the face panel screws with this piece loose. Not pictured: Many Fusions have a plastic strap connected to the bottom of the box which goes down above the gas pedal and is bolted down. I removed this from the previous time I disassembled the dash. To get to the other end of it you need to remove the panel below the steering wheel to give you some slack to get the box out and be able to access the bolts on the console. 4. Next we need to remove the center console piece with the cup holders and cut out for the shifter. To do this, pull the parking brake and then open the arm rest. Use a flat head screw driver to pry it upwards. I always wrap the tip of the screw driver with a couple pieces of electrical tape to give it some padding and avoid scratches or cracks from sharp edges. Keep carefully pulling up from back to the front and it should also pop the chrome ring from around the shifter out of place. If your car has the lighting kit, disconnect the wiring from underneath the cup holders. At this point I took these pieces in the house and scrubbed them up good in the kitchen sink with a mild detergent. I bought the car pre-owned and there were some smudges I wanted to get off. 5. Once that has been removed and put aside in a safe location it's time to remove the coin tray at the front of the console. Just wiggle it and pull up and towards you and it should come out without much effort as there are no screws holding it into place. Once you have the coin tray loose, disconnect the power cable for the aux power jack and set it aside. (Note this pic is actually from after the install, I didn't take one of this part before but wanted to show what it looks like). 6. This is what it looks like with the coin tray removed. 7. Back up at the top of the console, remove the two bolts that hold the face panel (I don't know a better name to call it) in place. The bolts were hidden behind the lip of the top console storage box. Pull the face panel towards you from the top to bottom. There are 6 clips (3 on each side) that will pop loose. Be careful as the stereo, HVAC and other button controller boxes are actually attached to the back of the face panel and not to the inside of the dash like every other car I've ripped apart a month after buying it. You will need to remove 4 wiring harnesses (maybe more or less if the car has different options) from the back of several control units on the back of the face panel. They're pretty easy, press the tab and pull away, you could mark them if you like but the only two that look the same are color coded so I didn't bother. The CD player unit will remain bolted into the dash. 8. Next remove the 4 bolts that hold the CD player unit in place and remove it by pulling it out towards you. Unhook the wiring harness and remove it from the car. 9. Here's what the open dash cavity looks like with the face panel and CD player removed. Here you'll see multiple wiring harnesses from the vehicle as well as my RCA cables and amplifier remote turn on wire that I ran previously. These can be run down the drivers side of the car underneath the plastic trim panels in the door openings. 10. Remove The HVAC and other control boxes from the stock face panel (left) and re-install them on your aftermarket face panel (right). I left the factory stereo controller box attached for now and will probably just store it until many years from now when I'm ready to sell the car and want to put it back to stock. Anyway, the controller boxes were attached with star-screws, but a small flat head screw driver worked fine for me as I was too lazy to go grab the star drivers. The bottom control box with traction control and lighting buttons just popped out with some tabs and had no screws. To Be Continued...