tmdata Posted October 18, 2010 Share Posted October 18, 2010 I have had my 2011 FFH for a month now and I’m getting ready to wire up the factory installed block heater on a timer in my garage. (The owner’s manual states that the maximum it should run is about 3 hrs) I noticed the covered 110V plug on the top of the engine compartment rail but I don’t see any route to pop it through the grill to connect it to the house wiring. It’s not a very long connection and I’m used to seeing the block heater plugs hanging out the grill in the colder parts of the country. I’m wondering if I’m missing an easy way to push the plug out through the grille from where it sits in its clip or does Ford expect everyone to open the hood every time they connect the block heater? Right now I’m assuming that only way to make the plug available at the grill is to add a short extension from the plug under the radiator to the grill. I’m curious as to how the other FFH owners connect their block heaters on a nightly basis. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrMikeL Posted October 24, 2010 Share Posted October 24, 2010 I have a new FFH (one week today!) and was looking under the hood today for this very thing. I think I have a way to do it, but I don't have all the parts yet. Can't, for the life of me, find a black 3' outdoor extension cord in any retail stores here. So I found a 4' on the internet and ordered it. WARNING: follow the owners manual and select an outdoor rated, 16 gauge minimum cord. And be aware that a larger gauge will actually be a smaller number. So 18 gauge is going in the wrong direction. I plan on running the extension cord down and snagging it through the lower grill and using a black nylon zip tie to secure it down. I will take pictures and post them when I'm done. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmdata Posted October 24, 2010 Author Share Posted October 24, 2010 (edited) Yeah, I was looking for a convenient way to make use of the nice OEM covered plug w/o an additional short run of extension cord that stays with the vehicle. I found a nice 14awg wired 1,500w timer switch and now I want to limit the number of connectors in the line I install. I know I don't want my wife to have handle the hood first thing in the morning, if I were to forget to unplug it the way it is now. I found the hood to be quite heavy. Looks like we'll both be laying it out the same way. I expected that somebody had plowed this ground before! Edited October 24, 2010 by tmdata 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zacher Posted October 25, 2010 Share Posted October 25, 2010 Up here in Canada, mine hangs out for a good 6 months of the year. I haven't found a way to route it through the grill, but I also didn't try to hard last year. Last year I just hung it outside of the hood and let the hood close about 2cm past the temperature sensor. W/ the plastic covering, it never closed enough to pinch the wire. Just make sure you don't slam the hood on the temperature sensor, as it's used to not provide power to the block heater if the ambient temperature is above -15C. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmdata Posted October 25, 2010 Author Share Posted October 25, 2010 (edited) Interesting. The 2011 Owners manual states "The block heater system is most effective when outdoor temperatures reach below 0°F (-18°C)." But it doesn't say anything about a temperature sensor opening the curcuit when the temperature is above -15C (5F) ! Where is the temp sensor? In the junction in the wiring harness that sits on the top end with the plug? Edited October 25, 2010 by tmdata 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zacher Posted October 26, 2010 Share Posted October 26, 2010 Top end near the plug. I was sure it was -15C could be -18C as you mentioned. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johneed Posted November 29, 2011 Share Posted November 29, 2011 It is starting to cool down here in MN. I have purchased a nice 3-prong timer and an appropriate extension cord. Overnight lows will be dipping into the teens this week; however, my FFH is kept in an insulated garage that maintains temperatures approximately 20 degrees higher than outside. It will be awhile before I reach the below 0°F (-18°C). Here is a copy/paste from the 2011 Owners Guide: ENGINE BLOCK HEATER (IF EQUIPPED) An engine block heater warms the engine coolant which aids in starting and allows the heater/defroster system to respond quickly. If your vehicle is equipped with this system, your equipment includes a heater element which is installed in your engine block and a wire harness which allows the user to connect the system to a grounded 120 volt A/C electrical source. The block heater system is most effective when outdoor temperatures reach below 0°F (-18°C). WARNING: Failure to follow engine block heater instructions could result in property damage or physical injury. WARNING: To reduce the risk of electrical shock, do not use your heater with ungrounded electrical systems or two-pronged (cheater) adapters. Prior to using the engine block heater, follow these recommendations for proper and safe operation: • For your safety, use an outdoor extension cord that is product certified by Underwriter’s Laboratory (UL) or Canadian Standards Association (CSA). Use only an extension cord that can be used outdoors, in cold temperatures, and is clearly marked “Suitable for Use with Outdoor Appliances.” Never use an indoor extension cord outdoors; it could result in an electric shock or fire hazard. • Use a 16-gauge outdoor extension cord, minimum. • Use as short an extension cord as possible. • Do not use multiple extension cords. Instead, use one extension cord which is long enough to reach from the engine block heater cord to the outlet without stretching. • Make certain that the extension cord is in excellent condition (not patched or spliced). Store your extension cord indoors at temperatures above 32°F (0°C). Outdoor conditions can deteriorate extension cords over a period of time. • To reduce the risk of electrical shock, do not use your heater with ungrounded electrical systems or two pronged (cheater) adapters. Also ensure that the block heater, especially the cord, is in good condition before use. • Make sure that when in operation, the extension cord plug/engine block heater cord plug connection is free and clear of water in order to prevent possible shock or fire. • Be sure that areas where the vehicle is parked are clean and clear of all combustibles such as petroleum products, dust, rags, paper and similar items. • Be sure that the engine block heater, heater cord and extension cord are solidly connected. A poor connection can cause the cord to become very hot and may result in an electrical shock or fire. Be sure to check for heat anywhere in the electrical hookup once the system has been operating for approximately a half hour. • Finally, have the engine block heater system checked during your fall tune-up to be sure it’s in good working order. How to use the engine block heater: Ensure the receptacle terminals are clean and dry prior to use. To clean them, use a dry cloth. Depending on the type of factory installed equipment, your engine block heater will use .4 to 1.0 kilowatt-hours of energy per hour of use. Your factory installed block heater system does not have a thermostat; however, maximum temperature is attained after approximately three hours of operation. Block heater operation longer than three hours will not improve system performance and will unnecessarily use additional electricity. Make sure system is unplugged and properly stowed before driving the vehicle. While not in use, make sure the protective cover seals the prongs of the engine block heater cord plug. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sublimobile Posted November 30, 2011 Share Posted November 30, 2011 Can someone post a pic of where the plug is located? The manual doesnt say. Thanks. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FusionDiffusion Posted November 30, 2011 Share Posted November 30, 2011 (edited) If you bought your car in Indiana, you probably don't have one on your car. It only comes standard in the "cold" states (WI to MT) and Canada. Can I get a reference for this "temperature sensor"? Block heaters are pretty dumb, in my experience they're always on when plugged in regardless of ambient temperature. Are you sure it isn't just a fuse or wire crimp? I looked and also concluded there's no way to get the plug through the grille, only under the hood (and it sort of dangles in front of the headlight). I also thought about getting a 3' appliance extension cord (I like the flat ribbon style ones). I leave my battery plugged in anyway, so I'm already having to unplug stuff every time I drive. Edited November 30, 2011 by FusionDiffusion 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ralteredstates Posted December 7, 2011 Share Posted December 7, 2011 Installed the OEM parts before last winter and routed the power cord through the bottom grill. I don't think it was worth it since it didn't seem to speed up the warm -up time significantly. I'll probably still use it this winter though. Plugged into timer that turns it on 3 hours before I leave the house. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johneed Posted January 18, 2012 Share Posted January 18, 2012 (edited) I connected my timer and cord last night for the first time, as outside temperatures got down to 7F. My car sits in the garage, which is usually about 20F warmer than outside. Consequently, I think the garage temperature low was probably in the mid 20s fahrenheit. I have the timer set to come on at 3:30am and turn off at 7:00am. I usually leave for work between 6:30am and 7:00am. The timer Power On light was lit when I entered our garage this morning. However, when I started the car, the temperature gauge did not appear elevated at all. I was definitely not getting heat right way, which is what I was hoping for. As I went down the road, it is slightly possible it came up to heater temperature faster than usual, but I can't be sure. I'm inclined to think the alleged inline temperature sensor came into play and did not allow power to flow to the block heater because the garage temps did not dip below zero. If that is case, it is disappointing. Even though it may have been relatively warm in my garage (albeit still below freezing), it was cold outside and my windows fogged almost immediately. It would have been nice to get faster access to heat. I don't think there's anything too unique about the Hybrid here, I suspect the same basic block heater principles apply for hybrid and standard engines. Thoughts? Edited January 18, 2012 by johneed 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goneracin Posted January 18, 2012 Share Posted January 18, 2012 I have used a block heater on my diesels for years, they warm up the engine enough to help prevent wear on cold start up, but even my current f-250 doesnt show any temp on the guage when started. but you can sure hear a difference in the way it starts. warm oil vs cold oil. keep in mind, it doesnt really make the oil and coolant warm, just not so cold that it is hard as a rock. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FusionDiffusion Posted January 18, 2012 Share Posted January 18, 2012 (edited) Okay, this is bugging me. Is this what everyone is calling the temperature sensor? It looks like just a electrical connector to me (so they can put different plugs on the end for different countries). It pulls apart in the middle. It says "Not for interrupting current" on it. If anything, there would be a temp cutoff switch on the other end in the block that shuts the heater off when the coolant is warm enough. It's also been my experience that the block heater does not heat up the coolant enough to get the gauge to move when you start the car. It does make the engine turn over easier, and the car warms up about twice as fast though. You might not notice a big difference now, but it makes a huge difference when it's -10 or -20ºF and your car sat out all night. Edited January 18, 2012 by FusionDiffusion 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johneed Posted January 19, 2012 Share Posted January 19, 2012 I'm not sure if there is a temperature switch or not. The owner's manual does not refer to it, but several posts here have. After reading the responses, it seems my expectations for an active block heater were unrealistic. Starting in my garage has never been a problem. Being able to warm up to drive the heater a little faster will have to be good enough I guess. I am planning to call Ford about the temperature switch ASAP. It annoys the heck out of me that I can't decide when I want to use it. That is trying a little TOO HARD to be green, IMHO. The timer manages that aspect just fine, thank you very much! 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FusionDiffusion Posted January 20, 2012 Share Posted January 20, 2012 (edited) Yeah, the only place I see a reference to a temp sensor is the post by Zacher. I asked for a reference but never got one, so perhaps he just confused the recommendation temp in the manual. Like I said before, every block heater I've ever met is unswitched, so its always on when there is power going to it. I'll do a test and post the results here. If you think about it, to keep 9+ quarts of coolant piping hot at 180-200ºF in below zero temps would take a lot of energy, say 2000-3000 watts, which is more than the typical 15 amp circuit can handle. I think the block heater is 420 watts, so it's designed to just keep the fluid in the block and heater core warm, and everything in the radiator still stays fairly cold. It's possible you had a problem with your timer or extension cord that prevented the heater from getting power. You might try plugging in a light to the timer and seeing it it comes on in the morning or try the lamp in the extension cord after you unplug your car. Edited January 23, 2012 by FusionDiffusion 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johneed Posted January 20, 2012 Share Posted January 20, 2012 I have a fancy timer with an indicator light when power is flowing. The extension cord is brand new, fat, and short, so I doubt there's a delivery issue. I'll try putting a trouble light at the end of the extension cord next week and see what happens though. I think this is more just me being ignorant about block heaters and how much impact they have. Their main intent is to ease cold starting and allow for somewhat quicker warming. For me to expect that my heater would be immediately function was just unrealistic. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FusionDiffusion Posted January 23, 2012 Share Posted January 23, 2012 Just an update, I did a block heater test and posted the results here - http://www.fordfusionforum.com/index.php?/topic/7355-about-block-heaters/ I also left the heater cord and the flat electrical connector (the item in my previous photo) under a warm hood and did a test. I measured the temperature of the connecter at 67ºF, and the block heater was still drawing full current. This means that the heater definitely does not have any kind of temperature switch that disables the heater in mild or warm conditions. Again, the heater is on at all times when plugged in. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johneed Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 AWESOME--thank you! 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmdata Posted January 25, 2012 Author Share Posted January 25, 2012 Sounds like a winner. Thanks for following up. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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