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Hey all,

 

New to the forum. Had a question about engine RPM.

 

I am really interested in purchasing a 2007 Fusion SE I4 2.3L w/the 5-speed manual transmission. I have test driven this car twice now with the same result. When I am crusing at 110kph (68mph) in 5th the engine is turning 3000rpm. This is on a flat stretch of road with no hills and no wind either direction. It sounds like the engine is working hard. Is this normal on the Fusion with this engine/transmission combination?

I think I would have made a deal on this car today, but the rpm issue has me concerned. I feel at that high of rpm the fuel mileage will be lousy. Feels like there is an overdive button that is off or I need a 6th gear to shift into. I realize that it is only a 4 cylinder in a mid sized car, but would feel more comfortable if the rpm was down around 2400-2600 at 110 in 5th.

 

When I brought this issue up to the people at the dealership I had several answers.

The salesman told me he wasn't sure and would get a second opinion.

A different salesman said that this was normal.

The Finance manager said it was due to the front wheel drive, car size and axle ratio (makes some sense)

The General manager said it sounded like I was in 4th gear. I thought that may have been the problem after the first test drive, but after the second test drive I verified this was in 5th gear. He said he would contact Ford to find out as he agreed it did sound high for rpm in that gear.

 

So, is this normal to be at 3000rpm @ 110kph in 5th gear on this Fusion?

 

Thanks for your input.

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f6600bps:

I'll try to address each of the important issues you came up with here...

1. I have the 2.3L four cylinder in my 2007 Milan. You have to expect that this motor, being a four-cylinder, will have the traits of NVH that isn't found in larger motors (V6/V8). The car weighs 3200lbs. and has 160hp, so it's at the edge of its mechanical capability to push this mass of car. While it may be competitive in a Focus, this is a much bigger package to move. Consider that I had a Civic Si with a 160hp 2.0L that moved great, but also weighed 1,000lbs less.

2. If you live in an area with hilly or mountainous terrain, I would not suggest the 2.3L. I live in one of the flattest places in the U.S. with near zero elevation, so the straining and downshifting this motor exhibits on climbs isn't something I experience much at all (really only on the Cresent City Connection bridge).

3. I have the automatic transmission that Ford markets as 5-speed mainly because "4-speed with overdrive" lost its luster about two decades ago (Ford only got the memo last year). During climbs, it will downshift to 4th if the driver attempts to force the vehicle to accelerate. Best technique is to just go into the climb at 60 and maintain the speed with small, gradual pressure on the accelerator. During these driving experiences, the vehicle operates around 2,600 RPM. I only see RPMs around 3,000 or higher when the car has to downshift due to exessive acceleration. Normal cruising at 75mph in top gear is 2,500 RPM.

4. My MPG figures show that I'm getting over 30 MPG per tank of gas. Numbers range from 30.1 to 31.3. My commute is 105 miles per day, 70% of which would be considered highway miles. I have over 8,500 miles clocked in four months and have consistently had this MPG average.

5. People who work at dealerships are there for one reason: to sell. You will never get insightful solutions with salespeople, financial staff, or at the parts desk. They may provide colorful or creative ideas based on getting you to buy something, but never the answer you really want. It's not in their job description to tell you how the engine is behaving at 67mph. They are there to move product. That's it. Take for instance the experience I related on another post on this forum... I pointed out to a service manager that my new Civic pulled to the right at cruising speed. His explanation? "That's a safety feature Honda designed into the car so if you fall asleep, you'll steer off the road." Yeah. Oh-kay.

 

I can't really understand buying this vehicle with a standard transmission. The auto gets the same milage and is far more convenient for commuting--not to mention passenger riding comfort. If it's a sports car you're interested in, this is not it. Especially in four-cylinder guise. Maybe a Mazdaspeed 3/6 would suit your interests?

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I have the 2.3 with a manual 5 speed. I have no issues climbing any hills, Actually I live near the mountains in NC so I would think if it was going to be a problem I would have noticed.

 

If MPG is important to you, get the 4 cyl with the manual. Its the best combination. I drove the Auto and didnt like it at all.

 

I havent checked the actual RPM at 70 MPH, but 3K sounds about right and with this 4 cyl. 3 K is kind of loafing, you can easily push it to much higher RPM.

 

Also at this RPM your mileage will be over 30 MPG you can count on it.

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I have the 2.3 with a manual 5 speed. I have no issues climbing any hills, Actually I live near the mountains in NC so I would think if it was going to be a problem I would have noticed.

 

If MPG is important to you, get the 4 cyl with the manual. Its the best combination. I drove the Auto and didnt like it at all.

 

I havent checked the actual RPM at 70 MPH, but 3K sounds about right and with this 4 cyl. 3 K is kind of loafing, you can easily push it to much higher RPM.

 

Also at this RPM your mileage will be over 30 MPG you can count on it.

 

How on earth are you experiencing 3,000 RPM at 70mph if I'm doing that same speed at 2,500 RPM? Is this an sea level issue? Or the gearing on the manual?

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How on earth are you experiencing 3,000 RPM at 70mph if I'm doing that same speed at 2,500 RPM? Is this an sea level issue? Or the gearing on the manual?

 

Of course it's the gearing. The gearing is always different between a manual and an automatic even if they're both 5 speeds. And the axle ratio can also be different.

 

The Lincoln LS 3.0L manual had the same problem compared to the automatic version. The automatic has a numerically lower final drive ratio than the manual, thus the rpm difference.

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Reading your posts on the Manual and Automatic 5 speeds, I now understand why they both are rated at the same MPG. The Manual is geard (sp) lower than the Automatic.

 

I've been "toying" with getting an "extra" car, perhaps a used (or new) Fusion Manual, because of the "Fun Factor". Still toying with that idea :unsure:

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The I-4 manuals I have/had were competent in blazing through the foothills of South and North Carolina. As well, I trekked across the mountains through GA, TN and KY on my way up to Michigan a couple of times. The Fusions had no problem with them and I liked that I could be "in tune" with the road and keep her in gear of my chosing for as long as I desired.

 

 

PS. Bob if you're looking for a manual Fusion, I've got one I'm looking to unload. $16.5K for a fully loaded SEL, black on charcoal leather. Just under 16K miles and it started out as a GA car. My father kept it out of the Michigan winter this past season as well.

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  • 1 month later...

most definitely...i have a 2006 fusion s I4 manual and xperience the same thing. it is very much natural and normal for you to see the tach reading 3K at 70 mph...its the same throughout the manuals. the issue between the auto/manual is a basic knowledge type thing. sorry to say, but you'll learn somehow...lol, and like the preceeding stated...this engine has a lot of get-up, and has no problem going to a higher rpm...its quite enjoyable eactually, especially when u have the exhaust i have! and, i have my engine bored out to a 4.2L I4!! 160 HP to 319 HP!! It looks stock from the outside, but everyone at the redlights think it is "unbelivable"...sorry, my location and method of the engine mod is classified! but, prior to this, i had the same rpm reading at 70! good luck!!

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most definitely...i have a 2006 fusion s I4 manual and xperience the same thing. it is very much natural and normal for you to see the tach reading 3K at 70 mph...its the same throughout the manuals. the issue between the auto/manual is a basic knowledge type thing. sorry to say, but you'll learn somehow...lol, and like the preceeding stated...this engine has a lot of get-up, and has no problem going to a higher rpm...its quite enjoyable eactually, especially when u have the exhaust i have! and, i have my engine bored out to a 4.2L I4!! 160 HP to 319 HP!! It looks stock from the outside, but everyone at the redlights think it is "unbelivable"...sorry, my location and method of the engine mod is classified! but, prior to this, i had the same rpm reading at 70! good luck!!

 

If you're going to make up something, at least make it believable. You can't bore out a 3.0 to 4.2L. There isn't enough room in the block.

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most definitely...i have a 2006 fusion s I4 manual and xperience the same thing. it is very much natural and normal for you to see the tach reading 3K at 70 mph...its the same throughout the manuals. the issue between the auto/manual is a basic knowledge type thing. sorry to say, but you'll learn somehow...lol, and like the preceeding stated...this engine has a lot of get-up, and has no problem going to a higher rpm...its quite enjoyable eactually, especially when u have the exhaust i have! and, i have my engine bored out to a 4.2L I4!! 160 HP to 319 HP!! It looks stock from the outside, but everyone at the redlights think it is "unbelivable"...sorry, my location and method of the engine mod is classified! but, prior to this, i had the same rpm reading at 70! good luck!!

 

I'm calling bullshit, as if it wasn't already obvious.

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  • 1 month later...
  • 2 years later...

Actually, it is possible to bore it out, but I not that far. However, it isn't cheap. It involves pressing in cylinder sleeves into the block that have been "faced". In other words, two sides line up with a "flat" side to the outside of the cylinder sleeves. You can still get the bore, even though you've penetrated the water jacket. The downside is that there is no cooling in the cylinder at that contact point. I wouldn't do it on a street car. It's more of a racing modification. I've seen this done with other aluminum block engines, especially the sportsman drag racers in the area. That was your only option for cubic inches until the aftermarket started making those huge small block and big block castings. I think the largest you could safely bore a 2.3 and still have a reliable engine might get you to a 2.7, but that's on the ragged edge. And by then, you're half-way to a V6. FWIW....

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  • 3 weeks later...

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