Highway Vibration

[kafox]

Hi All,

 

2012 Fusion SEL 4cyl.

 

I've been having some problems for the last few months with my car vibrating/shaking at highway speeds. The vibration USUALLY starts around 60 MPH but doesn't go away if I get above a certain speed. The other strange thing is that the severity of it tends to come and go even over the course of one trip (my typical commute is 30 miles each way). I can feel the vibration very slightly throughout the whole car and in the steering wheel but it gets noticeably worse when I step on the brakes at speed (slowing down from 70 to 35 for example) and I can feel it in the pedal. I also notice that the ride quality of my car is generally pretty rough which means I probably need new shocks/struts but not sure if this can cause/contribute to shaking issues or if its completely separate.

 

Things that have been done/checked by the shop:

• Had all wheels balanced (twice)
• Brake pads checked (wearing evenly and still have life)
• Check for caliper sticking (no evidence of this found)
• Replaced two rear tires because they were mismatched

So where do I go from here? I was thinking perhaps warped rotors, but they would have noticed that when checking the brakes, right? Would a bent wheel have been discovered during the balancing? Other than this the only thing I can think of would be work/broken suspension parts.

 

Any suggestions are very much appreciated! Let me know if I need to give more detail about anything.

 

Thanks!

[WWWPerfA_ZN0W]

How many miles on your Fusion, kafox? Driving over typical Boston roads would mean quite a bit of wear & tear in a short amount of time. So definitely have all components of the suspension checked thoroughly.

 

Were the wheels roadforce balanced, as on a Hunter machine? A wheel or two could still be out of round, despite balancing, as you have mentioned already.

Are the lug nuts properly torqued (overtorquing is a common problem esp when using power tools)?

Has the brake fluid ever been flushed?

By caliper, I assume you mean caliper AND slide pins found to be ok?

Brake pads - inner & outer - wearing evenly? As opposed to front/rear, I mean.

[kafox]

How many miles on your Fusion, kafox? Driving over typical Boston roads would mean quite a bit of wear & tear in a short amount of time. So definitely have all components of the suspension checked thoroughly.

 

Were the wheels roadforce balanced, as on a Hunter machine? A wheel or two could still be out of round, despite balancing, as you have mentioned already.

Are the lug nuts properly torqued (overtorquing is a common problem esp when using power tools)?

Has the brake fluid ever been flushed?

By caliper, I assume you mean caliper AND slide pins found to be ok?

Brake pads - inner & outer - wearing evenly? As opposed to front/rear, I mean.

 

About 61,500 miles. Purchased it about a year ago with 42,000 miles. Very first thing I said when I test drove it, "this thing drives pretty smooth", now not so much. Will certainly have them checked out the suspension.

 

• Not sure if the shop used/has a Hunter machine. I will call and ask.
• I can't speak to the lug nut torque as the shop did all of that. I would hope they would torque them to spec, but who knows? I don't really have a way to check on my own.
• Brake fluid hasn't been flushed since I've owned it. Not sure before that.
• They said there was no "evidence" of sticking. I don't know if that means they just looked at the rotors and didnt see any bad spots or if actually took them off and checked everything.
• I'm not sure about the pads. Will have to have them check this.

 

Thanks!

Edited April 28, 2016 by kafox

[Waldo]

The big bushing in the rear lower control arm in the front suspension is a hydro bushing designed to absorb vibration - especially under braking. Get those checked to see if they are leaking.

[eGuru]

This type of vibration is often due to a CV joint that is failing. When it is just starting to go, the joint will vibrate at higher speeds and as it deteriorates further you will start to hear grinding and popping noses when driving slowly and especially when making a turn.

Check the boots for tears. Sometimes you can't see the tear but will see grease that has leaked out.

[kafox]

Thanks all! Looks like this could be quite a number of things.

 

Calling the shop tomorrow and hope to have them look at it this week. Will make sure to ask them about as many of these things as I can!

[kafox]

Thanks all! Looks like this could be quite a number of things.

 

Calling the shop tomorrow and hope to have them look at it this week. Will make sure to ask them about as many of these things as I can!

 

Had the shop look at it again a few days ago. They don't have a Hunter machine but said none of the wheels were out of round. Not sure how they checked? Maybe I should bring it to a place that does have a machine.

 

Asked them about everything else and they couldn't find anything wrong. Offered to machine down the rotors to fix the brake vibration but I declined because I felt that they were just guessing at that point.

 

One more thing to note, the brake vibration that I feel when hitting the brakes firmly at speed seems to be more of a rapid thump thump thump or thud thud thud feeling as opposed to brake pulsations I have felt in other cars when the brakes were worn down. Would this be more indicative of a suspension issue? They said they didn't see anything but I am not sure how in depth they actually checked.

 

Will probably be bringing it somewhere else from now on to have it checked.

 

 

EDIT: And also, I notice that after I hit the brakes at speed, the vibration when not braking is worse. It also seems to somehow "reset" each time I let the car sit (overnight or while at work) and goes back to minimal vibration again until I brake. Its just so strange.

 

Thanks

Edited May 10, 2016 by kafox

[eGuru]

 

Had the shop look at it again a few days ago. They don't have a Hunter machine but said none of the wheels were out of round. Not sure how they checked? Maybe I should bring it to a place that does have a machine.

 

Asked them about everything else and they couldn't find anything wrong. Offered to machine down the rotors to fix the brake vibration but I declined because I felt that they were just guessing at that point.

 

One more thing to note, the brake vibration that I feel when hitting the brakes firmly at speed seems to be more of a rapid thump thump thump or thud thud thud feeling as opposed to brake pulsations I have felt in other cars when the brakes were worn down. Would this be more indicative of a suspension issue? They said they didn't see anything but I am not sure how in depth they actually checked.

 

Will probably be bringing it somewhere else from now on to have it checked.

 

Thanks

 

Did your shop put your vehicle on the lift and left the engine spin up the wheels to check for a bad CV joint in an axle?

[kafox]

 

Did your shop put your vehicle on the lift and left the engine spin up the wheels to check for a bad CV joint in an axle?

 

Took it to a completely different shop yesterday. They had two guys test drive it, put it up on the lift checked everything out thoroughly. I specifically asked about that and they said they did it and everything seemed fine.

 

Their opinion is that its just that the brakes are about 10k miles from the end of their life and are starting to grind slightly. They also said there is a little bit of rust around the edges of the rotors which doesn't help things. They also said I MIGHT want to have my front tires re-balanced but they didn't think it was truly necessary.

 

This shop came with high recommendations and they took the time to explain everything to me. So if two different shops tell me there is nothing wrong in the suspension, I am inclined to believe them. Guess I will wait until its time for the brakes and then reasses after that!

 

Thanks!

[WWWPerfA_ZN0W]

They were happy with the state of the bushing (left and right)? Did they show it to you, do you have any pics?

The big bushing in the rear lower control arm in the front suspension is a hydro bushing designed to absorb vibration - especially under braking. Get those checked to see if they are leaking.

[kafox]

They were happy with the state of the bushing (left and right)? Did they show it to you, do you have any pics?

No they didn't show me. Unfortunately, I drop off before they open and pick up after they close so its tough for them to show me anything in person. What do good ones and bad ones look like?

[kafox]

Just thought I would update this since its been a while.

 

The issue seems to have dissipated somewhat with the warmer weather (not sure how that makes any sense). I also recently got new brake pads and rotors all around which took care of the pulsation when braking, They also went over the suspension again when they did the brakes and didn't notice anything.

 

Still getting a less severe vibration at highway speeds and it does seem to vary from day to day which is still odd but I'm less concerned about it now. I might take it to get the wheels roadforce balanced just to see what that does.

 

I'm going to have them keep checking the suspension when I bring it in for other stuff just to be safe.

[eGuru]

Thanks for the update.

Often advice is given and the OP never tells us how it all turned out.

 

Let us know what you ultimately find.

 

I am still believing that the vibration at highway speed is caused by a failing half-axle cv joint.

This is sometimes difficult for the suspension guys to detect or validate.

 

Anyway, please keep us posted.

[Waʊnd Sterling]

Just thought I would update this since its been a while.

 

The issue seems to have dissipated somewhat with the warmer weather (not sure how that makes any sense). I also recently got new brake pads and rotors all around which took care of the pulsation when braking, They also went over the suspension again when they did the brakes and didn't notice anything.

 

Still getting a less severe vibration at highway speeds and it does seem to vary from day to day which is still odd but I'm less concerned about it now. I might take it to get the wheels roadforce balanced just to see what that does.

 

I'm going to have them keep checking the suspension when I bring it in for other stuff just to be safe.

 

If this condition 'varies' then you have two parts which are in a state of fail. Warped rotors can cause vibration at-speed, if you have two worn CV Joints they can amplify the condition and also cancel (partly) the vibration. They are not in a 'locker' configuration so they will have different timing on rotation. Your tires however are less likely to have the same benefit.

[eGuru]

 

If this condition 'varies' then you have two parts which are in a state of fail. Warped rotors can cause vibration at-speed, if you have two worn CV Joints they can amplify the condition and also cancel (partly) the vibration. They are not in a 'locker' configuration so they will have different timing on rotation. Your tires however are less likely to have the same benefit.

 

kafox indicates he 'got new pads and rotors all around' so that is why I am thinking it may be CV joints.

[kafox]

 

If this condition 'varies' then you have two parts which are in a state of fail. Warped rotors can cause vibration at-speed, if you have two worn CV Joints they can amplify the condition and also cancel (partly) the vibration. They are not in a 'locker' configuration so they will have different timing on rotation. Your tires however are less likely to have the same benefit.

 

It is likely that both CV joints would fail around the same time? Can you explain more about the lack of a 'locker' configuration and how it relates to the tires? It's not something I have heard of before.

 

 

kafox indicates he 'got new pads and rotors all around' so that is why I am thinking it may be CV joints.

 

 

Yes indeed. Got new brake pads and rotors on all 4 just last week. The old rotors certainly were warped though.

 

 

 

I tend to agree with you guys that something besides my wheels being out of balance is certainly wrong here but none of the shops I have brought it to can seem to find anything. I did manage to slightly shimmy myself under the car to look at the CV boots and neither of them looked to be torn and I didn't see evidence of any grease splattered anywhere. Unfortunately, I don't have a jack besides the one that comes with the car and I don't trust that one if my head is going to be underneath. What other kinds of troubleshooting can I do on my own? Should I go to an empty parking lot and try doing some turns to see if I can hear any clicking or anything? Also, how would worn struts/shocks factor into the situation? I am almost certain those need to be replaced as well. My ride is pretty rough and I get a lot of body roll on turns and significant nose diving when braking.

 

Sorry for the million questions. Trying to learn as much as I can.

 

Thanks

[WWWPerfA_ZN0W]

Lets hope the wheels aren't overtightened. That would warp rotors fast.

[akirby]

That was a big problem on early Explorers - haven't heard it much in the last 10 years but it is a possibility that's worth checking.

[kafox]

That was a big problem on early Explorers - haven't heard it much in the last 10 years but it is a possibility that's worth checking.

 

Hmm.. I don't have a torque wrench unfortunately. The shop that did the brakes (had the wheels off last) came with great reviews and didn't seem like a place that would cut corners.

[Waʊnd Sterling]

 

It is likely that both CV joints would fail around the same time? Can you explain more about the lack of a 'locker' configuration and how it relates to the tires? It's not something I have heard of before.

 

 

Unless there are tearing on the inner or outer CV rubber boots they'd not be a problem issue.

 

Non 'Locker' axle

 

 

As illustrated, when steering the outside wheel will turn revolutions at a higher rate than the inside wheel. A Locker-type axle (never on FWD cars) locks the axles together, all in the name of straightline traction.

 

If a problem issue appears at inconsistent intervals this may be a cause; both semi-complete failures presenting itself as one in a matched timing of the two rotating-halves.

 

 

You may simply have bad strut mounts, a pitted bearing may be rotating in and out of a pitted bearing-race also causing problem intervals.

[kafox]

Unless there are tearing on the inner or outer CV rubber boots they'd not be a problem issue.

 

Non 'Locker' axle

 

Untitled 2.png

 

As illustrated, when steering the outside wheel will turn revolutions at a higher rate than the inside wheel. A Locker-type axle (never on FWD cars) locks the axles together, all in the name of straightline traction.

 

If a problem issue appears at inconsistent intervals this may be a cause; both semi-complete failures presenting itself as one in a matched timing of the two rotating-halves.

 

 

You may simply have bad strut mounts, a pitted bearing may be rotating in and out of a pitted bearing-race also causing problem intervals.

 

Thanks for the info! Can anyone answer my questions from a few posts up?

 

 

Thanks!

Edited July 15, 2016 by kafox

[Waʊnd Sterling]

 

Can anyone answer my questions from a few posts up?

 

 

There is nothing more to contribute to this, I provided the next-most-likely problem area and that is your strut-bearings/strut mounts. These when trashed cause un-damped motion within the suspension and in the high speed variety. Making vibrations, and noise.

 

Going deep into suspension work, only to replace strut mounts/strut bearings and not replace the struts is foolish and not replacing these items can ultimately crack shock towers.

 

So - focus all your attention there and take this car to a professional. Good luck

Edited July 15, 2016 by Waʊnd Sterling

[kafox]

There is nothing more to contribute to this, I provided the next-most-likely problem area and that is your strut-bearings/strut mounts. These when trashed cause un-damped motion within the suspension and in the high speed variety. Making vibrations, and noise.

 

Going deep into suspension work, only to replace strut mounts/strut bearings and not replace the struts is foolish and not replacing these items can ultimately crack shock towers.

 

So - focus all your attention there and take this car to a professional. Good luck

Thanks. I really do appreciate the info. How do you guys feel about quick struts? Seems like the easiest way to replace the whole package? Or should I just stick with Motorcraft?

[kafox]

Wanted to let you all know that I traded in the Fusion because I was having way too many problems with it and Ford was being less than helpful. So it seems we will never get a resolution to this. Proud owner of a 2015 Hyundai Sonata Sport!

[zip89105]

Don't blame you for trading. After 5 months or more with a problem that can't be fixed I'd be doing the same thing.