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BCM change. Do I have to go to the dealer for programming?


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Yes, you absolutely have to have the BCM dealer programmed.  It controls many many aspects of the car, like the keys, tpms, interior lighting, etc. which varies based on options.  Also, the BCM and PCM, and possibly the Instrument cluster must all be programmed to work together.  

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2 hours ago, Ashcrash said:

Yes, you absolutely have to have the BCM dealer programmed.  It controls many many aspects of the car, like the keys, tpms, interior lighting, etc. which varies based on options.  Also, the BCM and PCM, and possibly the Instrument cluster must all be programmed to work together.  

Yes, if installing a new BCM, it must be programmed with as-built data for the vehicle it's going into.

Quote

NOTE: If the BCM (body control module) did not respond to the diagnostic scan tool, As-Built Data may need to be entered as part of the repair. This step is only necessary if the BCM (body control module) is being replaced

 The rest of the procedure:

Quote

Cary out the remaining steps only if installing a new BCM (body control module).
 

  1. NOTE: A diagnostic scan tool should not be used to program keys for this specific step.

Program the keys.
 

  • Place the first key in the ignition lock cylinder or the backup starting location.

Refer to: Passive Anti-Theft System (PATS) (419-01C).
 

  • Turn the ignition lock cylinder to the RUN position or press the START/STOP button and wait approximately 6 seconds.
  • Turn the ignition lock cylinder to the OFF position or press the START/STOP button and remove the first key.
  • Place the second key in the ignition lock cylinder or the backup starting location.
  • Turn the ignition lock cylinder to the RUN position or press the START/STOP button.
  1. Cary out the parameter reset.

Refer to: See: Accessories and Optional Equipment\Antitheft and Alarm Systems\Service and Repair Anti-Theft Security Access (419-01B Passive Anti-Theft System (PATS) - Vehicles With: Push Button Start, General Procedures).

Refer to: See: Accessories and Optional Equipment\Antitheft and Alarm Systems\Service and Repair Anti-Theft Security Access (419-01B Passive Anti-Theft System (PATS) - Vehicles With: Push Button Start, General Procedures).
 

  1. Using a diagnostic scan tool, complete the PMI (programmable module installation) process for the BCM (body control module) following the on-screen instructions.
  2. Using a diagnostic scan tool, cary out the Configuration Engine Immobilizer (CEI) configuration following the on-screen instructions (Toolbox > Body > Service Functions > CEI Lock Configuration).
  3. Using a diagnostic scan tool, cary out the battery monitor sensor reset following the on-screen instructions (Toolbox > Body > BMS Reset).
  4. NOTE: This step does not apply to vehicles equipped with 360 degree camera view.

If equipped with video rear parking aid, using a diagnostic scan tool, cary out the new module initialization following the on-screen instructions (Toolbox > Electrical > Service Functions > LIN New Module Initialization).
 

  1. Configure the customer preference programmable parameters.

Refer to: See: Powertrain Management\Computers and Control Systems\Information Bus\Description and Operation\Module Configuration Module Configuration - System Operation and Component Description (418-01 Module Configuration, Description and Operation).
 

  1. Train the tire pressure sensors.

Refer to: Tire Pressure Monitoring System (TPMS) Sensor Location Calibration (204-04 Tire Pressure Monitoring System (TPMS)).
 

  1. Cary out the BCM (body control module) self-test (must include an on-demand self-test) and then repeat the self-test to confirm all DTC (diagnostic trouble code) have been cleared.
  2. NOTE: This step applies only to Fusion Energi.

Cary out the PCM (powertrain control module) Keep Alive Memory (KAM) reset following the scan tool on screen instructions (Toolbox > Powertrain > Reset KAM > PCM).
 

  1. Using a diagnostic scan tool, complete the PMI (programmable module installation) process for the PAM (parking assist control module) following the on-screen instructions.
 
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Why are you changing the BCM anyway?

 

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I have had these weird instances where all my electronics die at the same time. Car keeps running but nothing else works. Then 10 minutes later it works. Took to the dealer and no codes. Been doing it off and on (about 1x a month) for 3 years. Thinking it has to be the BCM but I really dont know. I did change the battery out, and I also then later disconnected Battery current sensor. No difference. Wife is all freaked out to drive it which isnt necessarily a bad thing because I prefer driving it.

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Unlikely to be the BCM module itself, sounds much more likely to be a connector or bad ground somewhere.  Unfortunately it could be anywhere but it's probably something on the CAN network.

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5 hours ago, Waldo said:

Unlikely to be the BCM module itself, sounds much more likely to be a connector or bad ground somewhere.  Unfortunately it could be anywhere but it's probably something on the CAN network.

That would be a helluva waste of time and money only to end up with the same problem.

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Follow up. I am 99% sure the issue is related to the fuse box unit. Was already wondering if heat had something to do with it but I didnt share that part yet with anyone because my wife has been driving it and its is hard to say what the hell happens when it happens to her. Anyways, I kept the car and drove it. It was blanked out yesterday afternoon and stayed blanked out for a couple of hours. I went in and swapped the BCM 1 and BCM 2 fuses and it went away and everything started working. I then went on Just Answers and paid a Ford mechanic to call me. Before I even mentioned my suspicions about heat being a factor or that I had messed with the fuse box and its connections he said that box is known for not getting the signal to the BCM because of high resistance when the car gets to hot. He said watch when it happens and reset all the connects. I then told him how I suspected it always happened on hot sunny days when the car was parked in the driveway. I ordered another box for $112 and will hang on to it to see if the issue comes back. I am going to leave the car out in the sun all day tomorrow and at about 4pm try and drive to see if the problem comes back. Anyways, thanks. 

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  • 4 weeks later...
  • 6 months later...

I know this is a little late. Here is my take. Did you replace the BCM? I don't know about 2015, but the 2007 has an 8 bit microprocessor that runs everything inside the BCM.

In particular, my 2007 has a Freescale MC9S12DG128. These are auto temperature rated parts, and usually tolerate very high temperatures, but that doesn't mean yours hasn't gotten unreliable in high heat.

I am not sure where the dividing line on control is, but on my car, that module controls the door locks, the power windows, the turn signals, the flashers, the backup lights, the break lights, the wipers, the trunk release...

It also responds to the steering wheel controls and sends CAN messages to the radio to control volume and play/pause and track advance. I believe it also sends cruise control CAN messages from the steering wheel to the PCM.

 

What portions of your electronics are failing? Those parts? Or is your dash turning off? I believe the dash has its own controller that controls the warning lights and gauges in response to CAN messages.

Are you losing the center stack, radio, climate control? Those have their own control modules. If you are losing everything, you have a power/ground fault, though I have a hard time seeing how those are temperature related.

 

What parts are dropping off line?

 

I will note, my BCM just failed, I found a scrap one cheap, and everything works except the backup lights and the fog lights. To get those working, I'll need to have the unit firmware updated, and the dealer charges $140 to do that.

Which is outright ridiculous, given that they just load your VIN into the programmer, plug it into the OBD port, and push 'go'. It could easily be part of an oil change for an extra twenty dollars. Total rip off. The actual programming time takes less than the time to change the oil, so start the programmer running, change the oil while that completes.

 

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  • 2 years later...
On 6/30/2019 at 9:44 AM, Ashcrash said:

Yes, you absolutely have to have the BCM dealer programmed.  It controls many many aspects of the car, like the keys, tpms, interior lighting, etc. which varies based on options.  Also, the BCM and PCM, and possibly the Instrument cluster must all be programmed to work together.  

 

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6 minutes ago, Billie engel said:

 

 I am also hearing this on my 2015 Cadillac SRX and we're going to charge me a 1 Some odd dollars for a $50 part  Just to replace the relay in my blower motor A total of $367 I think so I really can't afford to go to the dealer too Set the programming on the BCM if I can get by with doing it on my own cause it's only a $100 part. Please help 

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