kparry Posted February 9 Share Posted February 9 Hi All. My Fusion has started to make an awful rumble noise and shake when accelerating to the 40-50 km/hr speed. It sounds and feels like I'm driving over rumble strips. I can only stop the rumble/shaking by slowing down. Please see attached video. This condition occurs after the car has warmed up for 10 mins or so. It occurs at the same speed whether in drive or neutral. Anyone have this happen before? I'm trying to determine what it is and if the car is worth saving. Thanks! Fusion.MOV 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WKelley Posted February 11 Share Posted February 11 My best internet guess is the read differential is going out of it. If that's not it, then the "transfer case" is likely 2nd. 3rd would be the actual transmission itself. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drolds1 Posted February 11 Share Posted February 11 19 hours ago, WKelley said: My best internet guess is the read differential is going out of it. If that's not it, then the "transfer case" is likely 2nd. 3rd would be the actual transmission itself. Adding to this, have you ever changed the fluid in the PTU and/or rear differential? On thing confusing me: you state that is present on acceleration but occurs either in D or N. How can you accelerate in Neutral? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kparry Posted February 11 Author Share Posted February 11 Thanks for the input. Sorry, let me clarify... it occurs at 40-50 km/hr. It is not dependent on acceleration. I get the same noise whether I'm coasting, accelerating or even shifted into neutral at 40-50 km/hr. Another odd thing... When the car is cold (first drive of the day), I don't have this issue until about 15 minutes into the drive. After that 15 minutes the shaking/clanging comes in without fail. Seemingly temperature contributes to whatever is going on? I'm going to take it into a mechanic tomorrow morning to see what they have to say. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WKelley Posted February 12 Share Posted February 12 I will add this as far as if you're going to save the car. If the body is rust free or at least reasonably rust free and you've maintained it or it has been maintained reasonably well then you will have a hard time buying a car you can trust for what the repairs will be. My 2010 is crazy low mileage, but the Ontario salt is tough to hide from. My car is mostly rust free, but I need to have some rocker panel work done this summer. Even as it sits, I would not hesitate to spend $1K+ on a repair because I cannot replace the car for under $5K. I'm not sure how bad prices are out in BC, but in Ontario you can't find anything safe for under $5K. Good luck and if the repair is high take a deep breath and really think it through. The car market is stupid right now. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kparry Posted February 12 Author Share Posted February 12 WKelley, that is really good insight as far as deciding what to do with the car. I hadn't quite considered everything you had mentioned. Thanks for the input. Rust is starting to develop along the hood where the rocks have chipped paint, as well as around the fenders but its not bad right now. The car spend its first 5 years in Alberta which probably helped. No other big issues, the car is at 225km... looks like it would sell for about $3,000. You are right that you won't be able to replace it with something trustworthy for under 5 grand so there we go. Transmission mechanic just took it for a spin and said likely the transfer case. If so $1800... but he has to get it on a lift to confirm. I'll probably consider myself lucky with an $1800 fix and I can keep it on the road for now. Baby on the way so will have to sell it off sometime in the next 12-24 months for something bigger. Will update with the final diagnosis and bill once complete! 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kparry Posted February 24 Author Share Posted February 24 Update and resolution to the above issue. Also thank you all for the input and help. Rear U joint was the culprit. Badly worn but couldn't be replaced as it is staked, or crimped into the drive shaft. Drive shaft with U joint was replaced with an OEM unit. Upgraded from a 3 piece to 2 piece driveshaft which improves reliability. 5 Year warranty. Cost all in was $1800 CAD. For a laugh, the first mechanic I took it to (Midas) said the vibration was coming from a stuck caliper. Geez. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WKelley Posted February 24 Share Posted February 24 It sucks spending so much, but it is good to have a guaranteed fix too. Glad you got it! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drolds1 Posted February 24 Share Posted February 24 Thanks for the update. I meant to mention the updated driveshaft in my previous post but forgot. At least it wasn't the PTU or rear diff. Just for reference, $1800 CAD converts to $1335 USD as of today. At your mileage, I'd still consider changing the PTU fluid if it's never been done. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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