chilgers22 Posted May 23, 2013 Share Posted May 23, 2013 hi all new to forum. ill cut to the chase doing an engine swap on my 2007 ford fusion 2.3L. I got the old engine (engine being replace due to rod knock) out and swapped all components over to the new used engine. Filled it with all fluids (oil, trans oil, power steering, coolant) also put in new plugs. I used my original wire harness for the new used engine. Dropped her back in and made all connections. But I'm having a problem getting her started. I turn the key and she cranks and then suddenly stops then starts to crank again. I would say it cranks for a 3 count then on 4 she stops and then cycle is repeated. I checked the fuel line to the fuel rail to make sure it was getting gas and the motor was. One thing I tried and thought was strange was that I depressed the gas pedal all the way down and tried to start her up to cycle trans and oil throughout and I noticed that it continuously kept cranking but as soon as I released the gas pedal it started to repeat the same process I stated before. Going to check the spark plugs tomorrow to make sure gap is correct and to make sure coil is firing to the plug. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FusionDiffusion Posted May 23, 2013 Share Posted May 23, 2013 Check for codes. It sort of sounds like you might have something shorting out. Flooring the gas pedal disables the injectors (clear flood mode) so it won't start with the pedal floored. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chilgers22 Posted May 23, 2013 Author Share Posted May 23, 2013 okay will check for codes and post back later my findings thank you 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chilgers22 Posted May 23, 2013 Author Share Posted May 23, 2013 All plugs are firing. I went to autozone and rented a code reader and it pulled code p0341-camshaft position sen A-bank 1 CKT range/perf. Not to sure what to check other than replacing the sensor. Are there other things I should also look for? 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FusionDiffusion Posted May 23, 2013 Share Posted May 23, 2013 Well, first make sure the bank 1 (rear) cam sensor is plugged in since you swapped the harness. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chilgers22 Posted June 1, 2013 Author Share Posted June 1, 2013 I used the original harness. I changed the cam sensor and cleared the code. Still wont turn over though. I also checked the compression for each cylinder and got about 225 for each one. I'm starting to lean towards that the timing is off. It looked like someone took of the crank case since there was a different color sealant. I'm assuming that they attempted to replace the timing chain but messed with the timing while doing so. Does anyone know how much it would cost to adjust the timing? Also are any other things I might be over looking? Thank you 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chilgers22 Posted June 1, 2013 Author Share Posted June 1, 2013 Sorry I went on vacation that why it been awhile since I replied 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FusionDiffusion Posted June 1, 2013 Share Posted June 1, 2013 (edited) 225 psi seems a little high to me, but if they were all consistent I think it's fine. If the timing was off I think you would have lower or erratic compression readings. The fact that it stops cranking on it's own before the 10 second period expires tells me it's some kind of electrical problem and not a mechanical one. Can you monitor the battery voltage during cranking to make sure it doesn't drop below 10 volts? Try jumpstarting it too. Sometimes these kind of problems can be caused by a bad battery. Adjusting timing is going to be in the several hour labor range, so probably like $300 minimum. Ideally you would want someone to check the timing using an oscilloscope before having to take the engine apart on a guess. Does the scan tool show a RPM signal when you're cranking to confirm the crank sensor is working? Edited June 1, 2013 by FusionDiffusion 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chilgers22 Posted June 1, 2013 Author Share Posted June 1, 2013 (edited) I've had the battery hooked up to a battery station while trying to start it. Battery has been at 14 volts each time we've tried to start it. The scan tool doesn't show the rpms but i did put on a new crank sensor. What kind of electrical issues should I check for? The scan tool I'm using is an actron obd 2 Edited June 1, 2013 by chilgers22 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FusionDiffusion Posted June 1, 2013 Share Posted June 1, 2013 Battery stations do not provide enough amperage to start the engine. Resting voltage before and after starting is not a good enough indication of battery health. The voltage must be measured while the engine is cranking. Certain Actron scan tools do support live data (cranking RPM). Cranking voltage is still my primary concern at this point. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chilgers22 Posted June 1, 2013 Author Share Posted June 1, 2013 What should the voltage be while cranking 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FusionDiffusion Posted June 1, 2013 Share Posted June 1, 2013 Greater than 10 volts as I previously stated. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thefoeyouknow Posted June 2, 2013 Share Posted June 2, 2013 (edited) I'd get with someone better than autozone. In the mean time, pull the valve cover and check cmp to pickup clearance. Edited June 2, 2013 by thefoeyouknow 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drolds1 Posted June 2, 2013 Share Posted June 2, 2013 You haven't mentioned where you got the replacement engine from. Do you know for a fact that the engine actually started and ran before you acquired it? 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chilgers22 Posted June 5, 2013 Author Share Posted June 5, 2013 Problem solved took it to the ford dealership and indeed it was a timing problem. She sounds good I forgot what the engine sounded like without a knock. Like I said before there was a different color sealant on the crank case so I knew someone tried to fix something. Thank you guys with all your advice and help. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fusionfamily Posted June 9, 2013 Share Posted June 9, 2013 Bare in mind - these are interference timed engines... if the timing was off, I hope that there wasn't any damage done to the pistons & valves while you were cranking... 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wangbungal Posted August 31, 2013 Share Posted August 31, 2013 what did the dealer fix and how if you dont mind me asking 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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