Dbeigel Posted September 1, 2013 Share Posted September 1, 2013 I have a 2011 Fusion SEL with Electronic Dual Zone AC Control. A few weeks ago my blower motor quit working. I check fuses and relays and it was neither. I then got my test light out and it is sending power to the end if the plug of where it plugs into the motor. Today while at the dealership I bought a new blower motor and installed it. It is still not working. Any suggestions? 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FusionDiffusion Posted September 1, 2013 Share Posted September 1, 2013 (edited) I think you forgot to check if the motor was getting a ground. If you jump the two motor pins with the test light it should light with the fan on. With EATC there is a blower controller module, so that might be bad or not getting a signal. Diagram: http://www.revbase.com/BBBMOTOR/Wd/DownloadPdf?id=878606 Edited September 1, 2013 by FusionDiffusion 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dbeigel Posted September 16, 2013 Author Share Posted September 16, 2013 First off thank you FusionDiffusion. That really helped me. It was not the blower motor. Yesterday i finally got time to look at it again (owning a business with 8 divisions & working somewhere) there was a bad connection on the positive pin on the Blower Motor, on the blower motor speed control. I plugged it in and it started working. Went inside my house for a minuite to get a drink and it about started a electrical fire. Now i am ordering a new pigtail and new speed control and we will see what happens. Im going to watch it very carefully when i first install it to make sure it doesnt get too hot and almost start a electrical fire again. I will update as soon as i am done and everything is working correctly. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Melinda Lynn Rice Johnson Posted April 16, 2014 Share Posted April 16, 2014 MY 2011 FORD Fusion/dealer replaced heat & AC Motor now I have to to buy a sensor. VERY Aggravating not to mention Expensive! 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zubrzyckir Posted April 26, 2014 Share Posted April 26, 2014 mine had the same issue. the blower resistor (the black box with a heatsink) was totally fried and was producing a foul smell autozone had the box for $130 but i really dont want to spent that much. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neldam815 Posted December 18, 2014 Share Posted December 18, 2014 Hi:I have a 2010 Fusion Hybrid, and the heater blower stopped working 2 days ago, where I have no heat, and we have cold weather here! I experienced the same issue with the blower not working just last August during a summer heat wave where the A/C was not blowing! They seemed to fix that without a problem. Today the dealership service Dept told me it is the Fan Resistor which shorted & is not working & must be replaced. Also, a Harness part has to be spliced into it ??? (whatever that means) Long & short of it is parts plus labor probably looking at about $450-500 ! Merry Christmas ! (Just what I needed this time of year)I thought I'd share my experience in case it can be of help to anyone else; or if anyone else has any input, I would definitely appreciate it. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FordService Posted December 19, 2014 Share Posted December 19, 2014 Hi: I have a 2010 Fusion Hybrid, and the heater blower stopped working 2 days ago, where I have no heat, and we have cold weather here!... Hi neldam815, Let's see what I can do to help. How many miles are on your Fusion? Has your dealership completed the repair yet? I'll get to work on some options. Crystal 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BHunt Posted March 30, 2016 Share Posted March 30, 2016 I am having the same issue with my 2012 SEL Fusion AC/Heater blower motor. Dual climate control and i have replaced the motor once already. When the motor stops blowing i can reach down and move the wires around going to the motor and it starts working. Sometimes the motor runs but doesn't seem to be blowing like it should so if i move the wires around it seems to get a better connection and the motor ramps up speed. Today I was warming my car up and i smelled the burnt wire smell and i have the same issues mentioned in the other post. Did any of these issues get resolved or fixed? Is Ford working with customers to help with this issue? If so what was the final outcome so I have some understanding what to expect. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zubrzyckir Posted March 30, 2016 Share Posted March 30, 2016 What i ended up doing was replacing the resistor, the blower motor, and the resistor pigtail. That has been the best solution thus far. Ford is obviously aware of the problem because the resistor pig tail i got from the ford dealership was way better quality and was thicker wiring. That burning smell that you get is essentially the pig tail melting in the resistor. They will both go in a matter of time if you don't take care of it. Ford won't fix it even though its a known issue. I just replaced those 3 things and have been driving fine ever since. Best of luck 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eGuru Posted March 30, 2016 Share Posted March 30, 2016 What i ended up doing was replacing the resistor, the blower motor, and the resistor pigtail. That has been the best solution thus far. Ford is obviously aware of the problem because the resistor pig tail i got from the ford dealership was way better quality and was thicker wiring. That burning smell that you get is essentially the pig tail melting in the resistor. They will both go in a matter of time if you don't take care of it. Ford won't fix it even though its a known issue. I just replaced those 3 things and have been driving fine ever since. Best of luck BHunt's problem may be different as his vehicle has the dual climate control system. In the dual system, the fan speed is controlled by a PWM motor controller instead of a resistor network. Of course, it can burn out also. By BHunt's problem description, its possible that the first failed blower motor over-heated some connections and that is now causing the intermittent connections when wiggling the wires. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zubrzyckir Posted March 30, 2016 Share Posted March 30, 2016 Mine is also the dual zone systen. I was under the impression all SEL's were. When i say resistor i refer to part number 8E5Z19E624A. It seems to be called a blower motor resistor, that's what i was calling it when i was looking for it. What melted in mine (and most people that i spoke to about it) was that pig tail connecting that unit. I made the mistake replacing the resistor only the first time only to have it melt again as i didn't replace the wiring. Also i know Amazon has that piece for almost a hundred and same with the blower motor but if you look hard enough you can find all 3 for under 100 bucks. The only place i could find the pig tail is the ford dealership. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BHunt Posted April 7, 2016 Share Posted April 7, 2016 Update: My problem was the resister and wires and Ford is happy to fix the problem for $602 Thanks for all the input 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eGuru Posted April 7, 2016 Share Posted April 7, 2016 Update: My problem was the resister and wires and Ford is happy to fix the problem for $602 Thanks for all the input I assume you'll get all of the hardware for less than $100 from ebay and do the work yourself 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zubrzyckir Posted April 7, 2016 Share Posted April 7, 2016 Honestly once you have all the parts, it doesn't take more than 15 minutes. Yah off of eBay from actual ford dealers, if you're lucky 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cta2rlm Posted September 29, 2016 Share Posted September 29, 2016 My 2010 Ford Fusion SE (manual a/c controls); just went out on Friday Sept 23rd. My nephew was able to fix it when I bought parts at AutoZone for $132.00, vs paying $700 at the dealer/mechanic to fix it. I don't ever recall having this issue this soon with owning a car before (I've owned Ford all my life). 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xaviernutsmachanic Posted October 8, 2016 Share Posted October 8, 2016 (edited) So my brothers Fusion is having the same issue. Melted connector and bad resistor. How hard is this job to tackle yourself? Edited October 8, 2016 by xaviernutsmachanic 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eGuru Posted October 8, 2016 Share Posted October 8, 2016 Piece of cake to replace the blower motor resistor and pigtail. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xaviernutsmachanic Posted October 8, 2016 Share Posted October 8, 2016 Piece of cake to replace the blower motor resistor and pigtail. Estimated time? Guide anywhere? 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eGuru Posted October 8, 2016 Share Posted October 8, 2016 (edited) Estimated time? Guide anywhere? Remove the glovebox after unhooking the little cable on the right side (same as if you were going to service the cabin airfilter). You will then have easy access to the 'resistor'. Splicing in a new pigtail and replacing the resistor module should not take more than an hour. Try this video shows all you need to know Edited October 8, 2016 by eGuru 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xaviernutsmachanic Posted October 8, 2016 Share Posted October 8, 2016 would you recommend OEM resistor and pigtail connector? or is aftermarket suitable for this? 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eGuru Posted October 9, 2016 Share Posted October 9, 2016 Aftermarket parts should be fine. You can elso check eBay - I have good luck there - just a question if you want to wait for shipping delay. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
samsong2020 Posted December 6, 2016 Share Posted December 6, 2016 Hello, my car 2011 ford fusion hybrid dual electronic climate control, i have a similar problem, i hear Electrical shock sound, then no air from the vent at all, i have tried the heater and the AC no blower sound at all in all fan speeds, i have checked the under hood fuses box with no problem, then under the glove box, the resistor and the blower motor, when i checked the connector to the resistor, i found that the "wire A the black one" where burned out from the connector it self, please advice am new to the ford cars, should i replace just the connector or try to fix it, or the complete set of the resistor connector, the resistor it self and the blower motor should be replaced? (in my country it very hard to get the transistor connector, i should request one from the internet with up to 2 to 3 weeks as delivery time) 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zubrzyckir Posted December 6, 2016 Share Posted December 6, 2016 If you have no blower at any time but hear the compressor come on means you have the blower issue, and since you have 0 fan speed - it is the resistor. On mine I changed the resistor and the cable pigtail. It melted right at the connection. So the resistor fried, but most times it is because the blower motor causes issue and burned resistor. The first time I only changed the resistor and cable, but my motor caused the same issue. It is best to change all 3. Since you are Amman, I don't know what parts you can get and for what price, but I would change all 3 - if you don't change the motor it can fry the resistor again. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msheharyar008@hotmail.com Posted December 17, 2016 Share Posted December 17, 2016 Hi I have 2011 ford fusion with auto dual climate control. sometimes by blower stops for a while and then turns back on after few seconds. when blower is running, I tried to run it on different speeds and it runs fine. I checked the blower motor resistor and one of its cavity is burnt. I have ordered the blower motor and resistor's connector (repair pigtail). do I also have to replace the resistor? to me, resistor does not look burnt out but if someone can guide me through, it will be much appreciated thanks 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eGuru Posted December 17, 2016 Share Posted December 17, 2016 Since the blower motor speed was varying ok, it seems the "resistor" is ok. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.