Blower Motor Problem

[zubrzyckir]

Hi

I have 2011 ford fusion with auto dual climate control. sometimes by blower stops for a while and then turns back on after few seconds. when blower is running, I tried to run it on different speeds and it runs fine. I checked the blower motor resistor and one of its cavity is burnt. I have ordered the blower motor and resistor's connector (repair pigtail). do I also have to replace the resistor?

to me, resistor does not look burnt out but if someone can guide me through, it will be much appreciated

 

thanks

 

Honestly I would swap out the resistor as well. It can be had for as little as 30 bucks but you do not want it burning out the pigtail and causing issues.

 

My air would cut off as well, at it was the connection at the resistor. The resistor and pigtail were what burned out. The pins would not connect and would result in a total air loss. I changed all 3 parts (blower motor, pig tail, and resistor) on mine, and have not had an issue thus far. I made the mistake of not changing out the resistor the first time and went through a pigtail cause it melted.

 

For an extra few bucks, it doesnt hurt to change all the parts and not have to worry - just make sure you solder the connections well or they can cause issues there, as well

[eGuru]

Great if you can get the Motorcraft YH1825 for 30 bucks. I see that they are generally in the region of $100.

[zubrzyckir]

Great if you can get the Motorcraft YH1825 for 30 bucks. I see that they are generally in the region of $100.

They can be had for that cheap if you try hard enough. Ebay has great prices and so do discount auto parts stores.

 

I would not advise third party replacements, as they are usually faulty and fitment isn't perfect.

 

If you want to go the cheap route, you can always go to a scrap yard and pick it yourself - and they're usually like 10 bucks. The plus side with that is you can snip the pigtail and not worry about paying extra for that. I'm pretty sure the pigtail Ford sells for this is a rediculous amount.

[samsong2020]

If you have no blower at any time but hear the compressor come on means you have the blower issue, and since you have 0 fan speed - it is the resistor.

 

On mine I changed the resistor and the cable pigtail. It melted right at the connection.

 

So the resistor fried, but most times it is because the blower motor causes issue and burned resistor. The first time I only changed the resistor and cable, but my motor caused the same issue. It is best to change all 3.

 

Since you are Amman, I don't know what parts you can get and for what price, but I would change all 3 - if you don't change the motor it can fry the resistor again.

 

appreciated your response, i have contacted the ford dealer in my my country he requested 360 us dollars and 40 days as a delivery time, i have fixed the pig tail my self because here is very cold weather till the parts arrives.

[zubrzyckir]

360 bucks??

 

Where are you? How much is shipping to your country? Those parts here only cost like $50 USD

[drolds1]

 

 

Where are you?

 

 

Copied from the same place you entered your region and location :

 

 

• Region:Middle East
• Location:Amman - Jordan

[zubrzyckir]

I'm on my phone where that info isn't directly visible.

 

Also, the city I listed has not been updated in quite some time - so it isn't correct. Many are in the same boat.

 

But thanks for the info, although it isn't fullproof.

Edited December 24, 2016 by zubrzyckir

[drolds1]

Click on "Full Version" and I believe you'll see all the info.

[Kurts74ford]

I'm new to this group, and have been reading this post. I too have a blower motor issue. I won a 2010 Ford Fusion SEL with dual climate control. It will just come on sometimes, but never wants to work when I need it. From everything I have seen on Youtube and read here I need to replace the pig tail, the resister and the blower motor. Can some one please confirm that please.

Edited January 16, 2017 by Kurts74ford

[Oracle_Ed]

I'm new to this group, and have been reading this post. I too have a blower motor issue. I won a 2010 Ford Fusion SEL with dual climate control. It will just come on sometimes, but never wants to work when I need it. From everything I have seen on Youtube and read here I need to replace the pig tail, the resister and the blower motor. Can some one please confirm that please.

 

From what I have read in these forums, it seems that the resistor and pigtail are the most likely to be the issue.

If the motor connections are looking fine, I would probably not replace it unless the other items don't fix the problem.

The blower motor is easily accessed.

[Kurts74ford]

So I replaced all three parts. Not I can hear the blower working, but I really don't get air flow where I have it directed, defrost, or floor, it doesn't seem to change. Any suggestions. It is friday and I will be working on this sunday so hopefully someone can help.

[Oracle_Ed]

Can you tell us the original symptoms and what is happening now in more detail?

[Kurts74ford]

As with with most here, the blower motor would work when it wanted to. So I followed everyones advice and bought the resistor, pigtail, and blower. You could see the pig tail and resistor had burned out like everyone suggested. So I continued on and replaced all three parts. I took my time wiring the pig tail, double checking before making my final connections and doing each wire individually. The blower comes on, as it should, and you can here it at max speed, but the air flow isn't what it should be. It is almost is if the door that changes where the air flow goes isn't opening all the way or at all. There is air coming out the vents, but not at the rate of the old blower. It takes longer to defrost the windows because of the lack of air coming from the vent at the windshield. and if you direct it to the floor, you hardly feel it.

[Oracle_Ed]

Sounds like you solved the original problem but are now facing a Mode Door Actuator or Air Inlet Door Actuator problem.

 

When you change from outside air to recirculation, do you hear the actuator and detect any difference in the flow rate?

 

Does changing where the discharge should go, does it seem to transfer fully or is some flow going to a in-selected outlet.

 

Suggest that before you do anything more you let the system recalibrate itself:

• Disconnect the battery for 5 minutes;
• Reconnect the battery and start the car;
• Don't touch any of the HVAC controls for about 2 minutes while the calibration routine runs.
• Turn HVAC on.

[Kurts74ford]

I will try that and see what I end up with. Just wondering though, the resistor or that pig tail would not have anything to do with this correct? I mean, it is solely for the blower motor and its speed correct?

[Oracle_Ed]

I will try that and see what I end up with. Just wondering though, the resistor or that pig tail would not have anything to do with this correct? I mean, it is solely for the blower motor and its speed correct?

 

Yes, those are only associated with the blower.

[mcroni19]

I would advise changing all three parts - The problem is the blower motor uses brass bushings. they wear out and cause the motor to pull more amps, that leads to burning out the wires between the motor and the resistor, which in turn blows the resistor.

save yourself the grief and get all three done at the same time.

I replaced them separately trying to avoid splicing the wires but in the end I blew two resistors before I stopped resisting....change all three at once.

 

Quick test - reach down and grab the wires to the resistor when the unit is running if they are hot you are in store for a replacement soon...they should not be hot. if they make you want to take your hand off the wires ... have the parts shipped in.

If your blower works intermittently have the parts shipped in.

 

 

 

 

parts

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018I7LAW8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OAKY76Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0145AMQ2U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

I have used all three of those - I also purchased one resistor from the stealership at $290 - only to have it fail because I didn't correct the issue the first time.

 

whole project is easy to do and takes about 1 hr...unless you're savvy at wiring or have done it previously because you refuse to change all three.

[Oracle_Ed]

mcroni19

Kurts74ford has already taken that advice and changed all three.

He now faces another issue - possibly related to one of the actuators.

[Kurts74ford]

I have finally had time to look at this problem and have more info. Oracle_Ed, I did as you suggested and disconnected the battery for about a minute. Before I did that, I made sure the power was off to the heat/ac control. Once I connected the battery, I started the car and left it alone for about 5 minutes. Then I went out to the car. Now, as a reminder, I have the dual zone controls. I tried the blower, and you hear it roar to life, but regardless of where you direct the air, it doesn't change. I went from defrost to vent to floor and nothing. I turned the fan down and pushed "auto" and turned the temp up to 90 (its 34 out), and you would think the blower would rev right up, but nothing. So to me, it seems that there is an issue with the controls. Is there a fuse or relay that I can check? And yes the light does come on when you push auto, and all the other buttons on the controls.

 

I would rather not have to take this to the dealer.

[Kurts74ford]

I just went back out, tried some other things I read on the internet, they didn't work either. I did notice (and this is similiar to what I said earlier) that when you push the auto button, the blower just stops. If you push defrost, or vent, it goes back to the speed it was at before I pushed the auto button. I didn't know if this helps in any advice

[Oracle_Ed]

The HVAC control seems to be the issue.

I would get a used unit off eBay or your local recycler.

You should be able to get it for $50 or thereabouts.

 

eg.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-11-12-FUSION-MILAN-CLIMATE-CONTROL-PANEL-TEMPERATURE-UNIT-HVAC-OEM-C3970-/351181578294?fits=Year%3A2010%7CMake%3AFord%7CModel%3AFusion%7CSubmodel%3ASEL%7CEngine+-+Liter_Display%3A2.5L&hash=item51c40da036:g:lRAAAOSw7NNUJfzo&vxp=mtr

 

 

Replacing it is about a 1 hour job. Get yourself some plastic panel popping tools to avoid damaging the console trim.

You will need also need a 7mm and 8mm socket.

[Kurts74ford]

I'd hate to buy this and it not get fixed, then again it makes sense to replace this and go from there. What is your determining factor for replacing the controls? Also, what trim needs to be removed to get this out, just hoping you can save me from taking too much or the wrong trim off. Where can I get those trim tools you were talking about?

[Oracle_Ed]

I'd hate to buy this and it not get fixed, then again it makes sense to replace this and go from there. What is your determining factor for replacing the controls? Also, what trim needs to be removed to get this out, just hoping you can save me from taking too much or the wrong trim off. Where can I get those trim tools you were talking about?

 

Initially, I suspected a mode door actuator problem but since you are saying that the blower stops completely in auto mode even with a high set point, I changed my mind. The DATC is the common control element here.

If you want to do a bit more troubleshooting and have a multimeter handy, then you can check if the DATC is commanding the MDA to new positions as you change from floor to defrost, etc.

Let me know if you have a meter and want to spend a bit of time with more detailed troubleshooting.

Seems that you are handy as you have already changed out those other components without issue.

[Kurts74ford]

Ok, I bought a control panel for the hvac and installed it, and it does work better than the last one. BUT, the problem is still there. Once I got it all in, I tried it, and the auto function works like it is suppose to (I believe), but you just don't get the air flow that you should. So next I unhooked the battery, waited, hooked it back up, turn the key on, heard the unit calibrating, waited about 3 minutes, then cranked the car. Still not getting the air where it is suppose to be, or as fast as it should. I put my hand up at the windshield with it on defrost and NO air on the drivers side, and very little on the passenger side. If air flow is directed to the vents, it should be blowing my hair, but you don't feel the air a few inches away from the vents. The Fan is working, you can hear it roaring, it slows and speeds up as it should.

 

I really need to get this car fixed, it is driving me nuts.

[Oracle_Ed]

Minimize the noise in the car - lower fan to minimum speed, etc. Select different modes and listen for the operation of the mode door actuator.

If you hear nothing or the sound of gear stripping, then you have your culprit.

You should also be able to feel the rotation of the motors shaft if you put your finger on it while some changes the modes.

 

If you replace it, DO NOT test it before the final mechanical installation as the calibration routine must run with the damper connected otherwise you risk stripping the gears and destroying the position feedback potentiometer.

 

So you really ought to do the install with the battery disconnected as the first step is the calibration routine.

Edited February 2, 2017 by Oracle_Ed