Kurts74ford Posted February 3, 2017 Share Posted February 3, 2017 How many mode door actuator.are there, and where are they located. and where can I buy them 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oracle_Ed Posted February 3, 2017 Share Posted February 3, 2017 (edited) There is 1 mode door actuator and it is located on the driver side, it is very close to the blend door actuator. You can get them at most auto parts for about $50. Dorman 604-229. Its the same actuator as for the blend door. Edited February 3, 2017 by Oracle_Ed 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fusionmanor Posted February 3, 2017 Share Posted February 3, 2017 I just went back out, tried some other things I read on the internet, they didn't work either. I did notice (and this is similiar to what I said earlier) that when you push the auto button, the blower just stops. If you push defrost, or vent, it goes back to the speed it was at before I pushed the auto button. I didn't know if this helps in any advice I picked up a second low mile 2010 Fusion this summer, a loaded SEL. The first time it got really cold outside the Blower stopped working on Auto, but if a Mode select or fan button is pressed it kicks out of Auto and I have to turn the fan up manually. It took me a few times to figure it out.....the blower won't run on Auto until the Engine starts to warm up from a (really cold) start. If the system is even slightly warm as in a restart hours later it will work just fine. For half this Winter I've set in the heated seats and watched the Temp Gauge and the Blower speed go up together, now I just start it up and let it set 10-15 minutes and it Defrosts all the windows and warms up the seat, too bad it doesn't make me a cup of coffee........... 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kurts74ford Posted February 3, 2017 Share Posted February 3, 2017 I have to be honest guys, I hate this car. It's hard for me to say that, as I love and drive Fords, we have three all together. But this car has been a nightmare since day one. Two days to program a second key (bought used with only one key). Then the air bag wiring shorted out on the passenger side. Half shaft seal leaked on it. Air bag wiring again. Heated seats quit once. Part of the air to fuel equipment quit (MFI?), Oh, and I haven't had this car quite three years. My wife loves it, and at first I did, but no longer. So I plan to check the mode actuator and the blend door actuator, and if that doesn't fix it, I am shipping it down the road. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sarahg1 Posted June 1, 2017 Share Posted June 1, 2017 (edited) I have a 2011 Fusion SEL with Electronic Dual Zone AC Control. A few weeks ago my blower quit working. It also had the clicking noise. When it stopped working I replaced the blower. It worked for a few more weeks and then quit again. I took it to a certified mechanic who advised that the pigtail had melted to the resistor. The wiring harness would have to be removed and replaced as well as the resistor. They advised the mfg is the only place that I can acquire these parts. Parts and labor a healthy $585.00. WHY ARE THERE NO RECALLS ON THIS PROBLEM?!!! Edited June 1, 2017 by sarahg1 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akirby Posted June 1, 2017 Share Posted June 1, 2017 WHY ARE THERE NO RECALLS ON THIS PROBLEM?!!! Because recalls are only for safety issues. Search the forum - I thought there was a DIY procedure for the pigtail. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dmark67 Posted August 22, 2017 Share Posted August 22, 2017 2013 FFH SE dual climate control, same, blower just stopped working. Still have cold and hot air and can hear the actuator working. Thoughts? 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eGuru Posted August 22, 2017 Share Posted August 22, 2017 2013 FFH SE dual climate control, same, blower just stopped working. Still have cold and hot air and can hear the actuator working. Thoughts? Jumper the blower motor "ground side" wire to chassis ground and see if it starts up. If not, blower motor windings are burned out. If it works, the blower motor resistor or the temperature control are faulty. Check for over-heated connections at the resistor. Read the balance of this thread to determine the methods, etc. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyross Posted May 27, 2018 Share Posted May 27, 2018 I have a 2011 SEL with automatic climate control. With the first hot days of the year, the blower motor is occasionally going out, mainly when running at high speeds. The blower is still the original one that would chirp at lower speeds. I looked at the wiring going to the resistor/controller just below/behind the blower, and the wires look good. Is that the pigtail everyone is talking about, or is it someplace else? 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eGuru Posted May 27, 2018 Share Posted May 27, 2018 That is the pigtail they are talking about but the problem typically affects the Fusions with the manual temperature control. Those use resistors to control the blower speed. The resistors run hot and accelerate corrosion of the connector and subsequently the melting of the connector housing. The automatic temp control system has a PWM blower motor control and it runs much cooler so less chance of connector failure. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyross Posted May 28, 2018 Share Posted May 28, 2018 (edited) Well, it now seems to be dead. It was working for awhile at lower speeds. This morning, it ran for a few minutes, then went dead, and doesn't seem to work at all. At least if I am moving, and have the sunroof in vent position, you get some cooling. I have ordered both a new blower and controller, just in case. Edited May 28, 2018 by andyross 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyross Posted May 31, 2018 Share Posted May 31, 2018 I spoke too soon about the wiring. I only looked at the wires, and didn't remove the connector. I did this time, and the one contact is badly burned. After some fiddling, the system does work (I did install a new blower today.) I guess I'll have to get a new pigtail now... 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank McGrath Posted August 15, 2018 Share Posted August 15, 2018 On 4/26/2014 at 5:28 PM, zubrzyckir said: mine had the same issue. the blower resistor (the black box with a heatsink) was totally fried and was producing a foul smell autozone had the box for $130 but i really dont want to spent that much. Rock Auto has it for less than $100. Where is the black box located? I dont want to tear the dash out looking for it. Thanks. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eGuru Posted August 16, 2018 Share Posted August 16, 2018 (edited) 36 minutes ago, Frank McGrath said: Rock Auto has it for less than $100. Where is the black box located? I dont want to tear the dash out looking for it. Thanks. It is right beside the blower motor. Follow the leads from the blower motor. btw - you can buy the blower resistor for about $35 on eBay. Edited August 16, 2018 by eGuru 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merlot_Fusion456 Posted September 29, 2018 Share Posted September 29, 2018 On 8/15/2018 at 7:28 PM, eGuru said: It is right beside the blower motor. Follow the leads from the blower motor. btw - you can buy the blower resistor for about $35 on eBay. I have replaced the blower motor resistor each year now for 3-4 years. I wish they would a get a permanent fix 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eGuru Posted September 29, 2018 Share Posted September 29, 2018 6 hours ago, Merlot_Fusion456 said: I have replaced the blower motor resistor each year now for 3-4 years. I wish they would a get a permanent fix If you had to replace the resistor that frequently, you probably didn't replace it's connector (pigtail) which would have been damaged by the over heating of the first resistor that failed. Once the connector contacts are burned, the high contact resistance promotes the failure of new resistors. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fusionff Posted September 29, 2018 Share Posted September 29, 2018 8 hours ago, Merlot_Fusion456 said: I have replaced the blower motor resistor each year now for 3-4 years. I wish they would a get a permanent fix Also, are you using an OEM resistor? 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eGuru Posted September 29, 2018 Share Posted September 29, 2018 3 hours ago, eGuru said: If you had to replace the resistor that frequently, you probably didn't replace it's connector (pigtail) which would have been damaged by the over heating of the first resistor that failed. Once the connector contacts are burned, the high contact resistance promotes the failure of new resistors. Resistor failures were more common with the first generation Fusions. What year is yours? 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kurts74ford Posted May 15, 2019 Share Posted May 15, 2019 I need to replace the blend door actuator. So far I have replaced the fan, resistor, and pig tail, and the control panel in the dash. I do NOT hear the actuators advancing when I change the air flow direction. So I have been told that is the problem. You can hear the fan working, get some, but very little air movement at all the exit points, but not at one specific point like the defrost or the vents. I have reading and see there are two actuators, should I replace one, or both? 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kurts74ford Posted May 15, 2019 Share Posted May 15, 2019 And if anyone can give me some detailed information on where they are located. I am a big guy and this is a small car to be digging around under the dash, lol. The more info I get the more helpful 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idanny76 Posted August 15, 2023 Share Posted August 15, 2023 I have a 2012 Ford Fusion SEL 2.5L. Today I ran the car A/C while waiting for my wife and when I went inside the car.... it smelled like burnt plastic. I thought the smell was coming from the engine, but it was not. When I got back in the car.... the blower motor was off and would not come back on. I had to take my other car for the errands and when I got back the blower was working again. I decided to check the both the blower and the resistor connector..... and the resistor had melted plastic on one of the tips. Also, the connector was warm. I read other post here in regards to the same issue and some say they replaced the resistor, but it kept going bad. I have also read that the blower motor could be bad and is pulling a lot on current. I really would hate to need to buy a new motor, resistor and connector to then have the same issue happen again. Don't want to just replace the resistor and connector and then the blower burn the connector again. I just watched a YouTube video and it seems that the resistor connector is not well made. According to the mechanic, the connector doesn't handle the amount of current running trough it very well. I read that the replacement resistor pig tail from the ford dealership was way better quality and the wiring thicker. It seems they know it was an issue and the replacement comes with a thicker wire and better plastic on the connector. Another person said "I would advise changing all three parts - The problem is the blower motor uses brass bushings. they wear out and cause the motor to pull more amps, that leads to burning out the wires between the motor and the resistor, which in turn blows the resistor. Save yourself the grief and get all three done at the same time. I replaced them separately trying to avoid splicing the wires but in the end I blew two resistors before I stopped resisting....change all three at once." I would really hate to have to change all three parts. Specially the cost for motorcraft parts and not sure after markets would be any better. The dilema of what to do. Amazon has an upgraded version of the pigtail made with thicker copper wire. I was thinking of getting all these three parts.... link below. What do you guys think? Thank you in advanced to anyone for helping me out. https://a.co/d/7E4sSOB https://a.co/d/3aCAg0j https://a.co/d/6tgynx2 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idanny76 Posted August 15, 2023 Share Posted August 15, 2023 (edited) Looking at the connector... The only pin burnt is the power wire that goes to the motor. Would it be correct to assume that it's not the resistor, but the blower motor pulling too much current? Edited August 15, 2023 by idanny76 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WKelley Posted August 16, 2023 Share Posted August 16, 2023 (edited) In my 20 years being a mechanic every time I replace the blower motor I'd also change the resistor and the pigtail. If any one of those 3 parts failed I always changed the other 2. If you do not change all 3, the problems will continue. I also would pay the price premium for original Ford parts, aftermarket parts have gone into the toilet as far as quality. Edited August 16, 2023 by WKelley 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyross Posted August 16, 2023 Share Posted August 16, 2023 I bought a new controller and pigtail for my 2011. But, I never got around to replacing it and sold the car. I still have them. The controller is for the auto-climate, not the basic resistor. That said, if you look at the contacts on the resistor/controller, you can probably carefully scrape off any melted plastic, and it may be OK to use. I also have a blower motor. I had replace it once due to the chirping. It started doing it again, so I bought another, but then it stopped, so I never replaced it. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idanny76 Posted August 16, 2023 Share Posted August 16, 2023 (edited) 22 minutes ago, andyross said: I bought a new controller and pigtail for my 2011. But, I never got around to replacing it and sold the car. I still have them. The controller is for the auto-climate, not the basic resistor. That said, if you look at the contacts on the resistor/controller, you can probably carefully scrape off any melted plastic, and it may be OK to use. I also have a blower motor. I had replace it once due to the chirping. It started doing it again, so I bought another, but then it stopped, so I never replaced it. You should sell those parts in eBay. The resistor is selling for $100+ and the pigtail for $80+. I had to replace the blower motor also for chirping two years ago with another motorcraft blower motor.... To then now be dealing with what seems to be the blower motor pulling too much current and melting the connector plastic. I am hesitant in paying premium prices for motorcraft parts and get the same results as aftermarket. I would buy motorcraft parts only if it was for sensitive electrical components. Sell those parts on eBay and get some extra cash back or even better send it to me ?. Edited August 16, 2023 by idanny76 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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