2.0L Ecoboost - which oil?

[David Garner]

I'll be getting changes at the dealership. Question is, with an aluminum, direct injected, turbocharged motor, are any of you springing for the full synthetic or just going with the blend?

Folks over at BITOG mostly suggest full synthetic due to those issues. What is everyone here running (and what are your OCIs)?

[akirby]

The factory synthetic blend 5w-30 is perfectly fine. Ford's ecoboost engines are torture tested to 150K miles in extreme heat and cold and under load. If it makes you feel better to use full synthetic go ahead but it's not necessary.

[David Garner]

The factory synthetic blend 5w-30 is perfectly fine. Ford's ecoboost engines are torture tested to 150K miles in extreme heat and cold and under load. If it makes you feel better to use full synthetic go ahead but it's not necessary.

 

Thanks. The thing is, I would only be using it for an added measure of protection, because I would also be changing the oil within recommended intervals (likely at or near 5K per oil change, which is sooner than required). So the typical reason for using synthetic -- longer OCIs -- is not there with me. I'll be changing it more frequently.

[Waldo]

 

Thanks. The thing is, I would only be using it for an added measure of protection, because I would also be changing the oil within recommended intervals (likely at or near 5K per oil change, which is sooner than required). So the typical reason for using synthetic -- longer OCIs -- is not there with me. I'll be changing it more frequently.

 

That logic is a bit silly, you're willing to change the oil more frequently for added protection but your not willing to use synthetic for added protection? Using the factory blend oil at 10K intervals (or lower if recommended by the oil change monitor) will give you 100% protection. Changing earlier and/or using synthetic will give you more than 100% protection. However there is no benefit to having greater than 100% protection.

 

I've used synthetic in all my cars for almost 20 years, but I tend to put lower miles on them so I stretch the intervals to up to one year (still under 5000 miles).

[hermans]

Waldo beat me to it. I think it's a big waste of $$$$$$, but then it's your $$$$$$.

[David Garner]

 

That logic is a bit silly, you're willing to change the oil more frequently for added protection but your not willing to use synthetic for added protection? Using the factory blend oil at 10K intervals (or lower if recommended by the oil change monitor) will give you 100% protection. Changing earlier and/or using synthetic will give you more than 100% protection. However there is no benefit to having greater than 100% protection.

 

I've used synthetic in all my cars for almost 20 years, but I tend to put lower miles on them so I stretch the intervals to up to one year (still under 5000 miles).

 

It may be silly. Unfortunately, my last car started burning oil at about 135K, so I have a cautiousness about it that borders on the psychotic. With the issues with heat from the turbo and fuel dilution from the DI, I just want to ensure I'm doing all I can to keep it running. I'm not a "trade up every few years" kind of guy, so I want the car to last.

 

I am willing to use synthetic for added protection, if it does in fact add protection. If it doesn't, I'd rather save the extra funds. It sounds like you are saying more frequent changes and using full synthetic are both overkill. I'd prefer to think that's the case, but I'm a bit gunshy after my last car gave up the ghost too early.

[junehhan]

Because you live in a hotter climate and subject your vehicle to lots of urban driving in congestion, I would spring for a high quality FULL synthetic like Mobil 1 or Amsoil. I have used either of those 2 synthetics my entire life, and it will better protect your engine. While reduced wear is a benefit, Synthetics often help protect your engine when running on the margin. When things are hot and engine cooling is taxed, will your oil have the ability to maintain viscosity? In addition to the added stability, there is the more robust additive package.

 

I will probably switch to Mobil 1 when I get my first oil change.

[David Garner]

Because you live in a hotter climate and subject your vehicle to lots of urban driving in congestion, I would spring for a high quality FULL synthetic like Mobil 1 or Amsoil. I have used either of those 2 synthetics my entire life, and it will better protect your engine. While reduced wear is a benefit, Synthetics often help protect your engine when running on the margin. When things are hot and engine cooling is taxed, will your oil have the ability to maintain viscosity? In addition to the added stability, there is the more robust additive package.

 

I will probably switch to Mobil 1 when I get my first oil change.

 

I'm a bit stuck because I don't know yet what the dealership offers. From the UOAs that are being posted at BITOG and the various Focus ST forums, Penzzoil Platinum seems to be really good, and I know Ultra has the low NOACK and the low SAPS that those folks seem to prefer for turbo/DI engines. But the Motorcraft full synthetic also seems to be getting good results.

 

I wish there were more good UOAs for this engine. As far as I can tell, not a whole lot of enthusiasts are using the Motorcraft blend, so there aren't any UOAs for that oil. The torture test on the F150 is solid, but this is a different motor, so I'd love to have a bigger base to draw from. I guess that's what you get buying a newer model.

[Grey]

I would change the oil and filter more frequently if you want to ensure proper lubrication with the synthetic blend Motorcraft oil. Unless you are in an extremely cold environment, there is little value in full-synthetic oil.

 

One thing I haven't seen discussed is the cooldown procedure before cutting off the engine after high temperature runs. Based on my experience with turbocharged engines years ago, you should allow the engine to cool down after very hot operation to prevent the turbocharger from overheating the oil and caking residue on the turbocharger mating surfaces. Just a minute or so cooldown will help prevent premature turbocharger failure. Oil not only provides lubrication, but helps control engine temperature.

[David Garner]

I would change the oil and filter more frequently if you want to ensure proper lubrication with the synthetic blend Motorcraft oil. Unless you are in an extremely cold environment, there is little value in full-synthetic oil.

 

One thing I haven't seen discussed is the cooldown procedure before cutting off the engine after high temperature runs. Based on my experience with turbocharged engines years ago, you should allow the engine to cool down after very hot operation to prevent the turbocharger from overheating the oil and caking residue on the turbocharger mating surfaces. Just a minute or so cooldown will help prevent premature turbocharger failure. Oil not only provides lubrication, but helps control engine temperature.

 

In this motor, supposedly, since the turbo is water cooled, that cooldown procedure is not needed. I do think it's probably a good idea to let it sit for 30 seconds or so if you've been running it hard, but the way I drive it, I'm not all that concerned about it. Ford says you don't have to do anything at shut down.

 

From what the folks at BITOG are saying, the benefit of full synthetic in this motor is both to avoid shear and to give some measure of added temperature protection. Best I can tell, the UOAs bear that out -- some of the oils shear down to 5W20 weight by the time they're changed. The Motorcraft full synthetic and, IIRC, the Penzzoil Platinum did not, and they also seemed to avoid dilution issues. But then, that's someone else's car with their driving habits. I will likely discuss options with the dealership in terms of what full synthetic offerings they have, pick one I like, and then test at maybe 15K-20K to see what kind of problems there might be. If push comes to shove, I'll just change it myself, but I prefer to take it to the dealership for a lot of reasons. They will apply any TSBs or recall work, and I think using Motorcraft parts helps with any warranty issues, though I worry more about the filter than the oil where that is concerned. And I don't want to have to produce a stack of receipts and oil change records that I kept myself in the event it has a warranty issue that they try to blame on the oil. I had that issue in 2003 or so with a Malibu my wife was driving, and the dealership was trying to say it was run without oil. I managed to convince them that they did all the oil changes, and when I complained about oil consumption, they said it was "normal." So when I told them "the warranty company is going to pay to fix this or you are," they kindly got the warranty company to replace the motor, and I promptly traded that POS in on a Chrysler Town and Country that my mother-in-law still drives to this day. I don't anticipate any such problems with this car, but if I happen to run into any, I think I'll have an easier time dealing with the warranty issues if they did the oil changes.

 

I may ask if they can do a BIY oil change with them providing the filter and labor, and I'll just bring them 6 quarts of whatever oil I choose that meets their standards. I can probably do that for roughly the cost of their full synthetic change (about $75 total), and get the benefit of rebates, etc. to keep the cost down. I'm almost certainly going to do that when I change the trans fluid and spring for full synthetic there as well.

Edited November 26, 2013 by David Garner

[David Garner]

I just called -- they'll do a BYO change for $21. I'll probably try Penzzoil Ultra or Platinum, based on the UOAs I've seen. With rebates, I should have the total cost of the oil change in the $34 range for Platinum. Unfortunately, Wal-Mart has the Ultra for only a penny more, but they're out of stock. Anyone know where to buy this stuff?

 

This seems to be the way to go without question, in either event.

 

EDIT: Never mind, Wal-Mart has it ship-to-store. It's a bit of a pain, because for some reason my local stores don't seem to stock it, but it's worth the little bit of a drive to get it. After rebate, it's $12.72 plus $21 for the filter and change, plus tax on both. No brainer.

Edited November 26, 2013 by David Garner

[Seething]

FWIW, I think you're going for overkill running full synthetic oil *and* changing more frequently than called for. With my vehicles, I typically change oil and filter every 3K to 4K miles, and I use a synthetic blend. I would describe the demands on my vehicles as "moderate" (some spirited driving combined with commuting and trips to the grocery store). Now, I have toyed with the idea of running full synthetic and changing oil/filter every 5K or so, but I wouldn't run full synthetic and dump it more often than necessary (unless I was frequenting autocross competitions every weekend or something).

 

Just my $.02.

[David Garner]

I might stretch it a bit and do a UOA to see what's going on. After 2 more changes, the break in should be well over and I should be able to get a good UOA. I may go with 7500 or so for those two and see what Blackstone recommends. That would put me at 18K on the odometer.

[junehhan]

There is actually nothing wrong with extending the drain intervals so long as the oil and filter are up to the task. An oil analysis will tell you exactly how much more life is in the oil. Some of the Amsoil guys go 25k or more miles on their drain intervals, which I would absolutely NOT be comfortable doing on a high tech modern turbocharged engine. The big problem with extended drains has typically been oil viscosity going way out of spec, but I have no seen how direct injected vehicles are affected. Mobil 1 is the oil that is factory fill for so many performance vehicles out there, so that is what I trust and use. I have religiously used Amsoil in the past, but I am concerned that their additive packages may be a little too robust for modern day emissions systems.

[cbdallas]

I highly recommend Pennzoil Ultra for D.I. engines due to it's low NOACK numbers.

 

http://www.mxtradings.com/Pennzoil/PU5w30PDS.pdf

[David Garner]

I highly recommend Pennzoil Ultra for D.I. engines due to it's low NOACK numbers.

 

http://www.mxtradings.com/Pennzoil/PU5w30PDS.pdf

 

Everything I read on BITOG indicates low NOACK volatility and low SAPS are the keys for DI/turbo motors like this one. That's the biggest reason I chose it. I'm only hoping I can continue to get it -- it's apparently not very easy to find.

[RNGMSTR]

T

Edited May 15, 2014 by RNGMSTR

[jeff711981]

 

Everything I read on BITOG indicates low NOACK volatility and low SAPS are the keys for DI/turbo motors like this one. That's the biggest reason I chose it. I'm only hoping I can continue to get it -- it's apparently not very easy to find.

 

Amsoil's Signature Series oils have NOACK ratings nearly as low as Pennzoil Ultra. In my humble opinion, Amsoil Signature Series is far superior to Pennzoil Ultra.

[jeff711981]

FWIW, I think you're going for overkill running full synthetic oil *and* changing more frequently than called for. With my vehicles, I typically change oil and filter every 3K to 4K miles, and I use a synthetic blend. I would describe the demands on my vehicles as "moderate" (some spirited driving combined with commuting and trips to the grocery store). Now, I have toyed with the idea of running full synthetic and changing oil/filter every 5K or so, but I wouldn't run full synthetic and dump it more often than necessary (unless I was frequenting autocross competitions every weekend or something).

 

Just my $.02.

 

The conditions you described count as severe duty by almost everyone's definition, unless your grocery store is 15 or 20 miles away and the engine has a chance to fully come up to temperature and stay at temperature long enough to evaporate any water that formed in the crank case while the engine is coming up to temp.

[RNGMSTR]

T

Edited May 15, 2014 by RNGMSTR

[junehhan]

From the testing that has been seen over the years, Mobil 1 has one of the best filters for extending oil drain intervals. My concern with Pennzoil is weather or not it is a full synthetic or not. Since 1998, most of the mainstream synthetics other than Mobil 1 have gone the way of utilizing hydrocracked base stocks versus traditional fully synthetic PAO's. In essence, it is more like a highly refined synthetic blend than a full synthetic such as Mobil 1 or Amsoil.

[RNGMSTR]

6

Edited May 15, 2014 by RNGMSTR

[junehhan]

I believe the Mobil 1 filters are made by Champion Labs although you are right that the Amsoil filters(another excellent filter) is made by Baldwin. It was my understanding that Mobil 1 was the factory fill for Dudge vehicles, but then again that changes from time to time. Pennzoil I believe is owned by Royal Dutch Shell these days.

 

I just hope no one here runs a Fram filter on their Ecoboost as it deserves way better than that!

[RNGMSTR]

N

Edited May 15, 2014 by RNGMSTR

[junehhan]

Well crap..............

 

I cannot believe this. I guess it is back to Amsoil oil filters for me then. I guess it is kind of like how Audiovox bought out Klipsch. If you make garbage, enter the premium high quality market by buying a competitor who dominates in such a market. This is aweful as I love Mobil 1 filters as much as I used to like Klipsch.

Edited May 10, 2014 by junehhan