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2010 Fusion hybrid Solar/Battery Question


buoug
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Does anyone know if you can charge the EV battery (not the 12v) with a solar charger so everytime you get in it, it is charged and ready to give you less engine run time? I know that the engine needs to warm up but if I'm in a warm location and the engine is already warm with battery "dead" then I have to drive to charge it. My question then points to same thing as last sentence except then it would be charged and ready to go. Has anyone done this or tried too?

 

And has anyone figured out how to change the charge point o the car? What I mean by this (no idea what to call it) is it always goes to the 50% mark when driving on cruise control (or parked position) and would like to see it go to 75% so you have a tad bit more juice to play with when you come out of it.

 

Last question. Anyone know if you can put the new 2013 battery into the 2010 so you have more drive time in EV mode?

 

If you post, thank you for the time of answering!

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When you talk about solar charging are you thinking about these small solar panels that plug into the accessories holder and trickle charge the battery? Not sure if it charges the HVB or just the small one. Plus those panels don't have very much charging potential.

 

Well as far as batteries, the 2010 has a Ni MH while the 2013 used Lithium Ion. Internals would be different. I'll let the others here go into the details.

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I would be connecting to the HV battery not the internal 12v connector at least the only way I can think of. Just not sure if I bought a flexible panel that fits the size of my front windshield if it would have enough punch to charge the battery. I found this item that I could install and then maybe charge the extra battery part with solar. Just a thought I guess.

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Does anyone know if you can charge the EV battery (not the 12v) with a solar charger so everytime you get in it, it is charged and ready to give you less engine run time? I know that the engine needs to warm up but if I'm in a warm location and the engine is already warm with battery "dead" then I have to drive to charge it. My question then points to same thing as last sentence except then it would be charged and ready to go. Has anyone done this or tried too?

 

And has anyone figured out how to change the charge point o the car? What I mean by this (no idea what to call it) is it always goes to the 50% mark when driving on cruise control (or parked position) and would like to see it go to 75% so you have a tad bit more juice to play with when you come out of it.

 

Last question. Anyone know if you can put the new 2013 battery into the 2010 so you have more drive time in EV mode?

 

If you post, thank you for the time of answering!

 

More drive time in EV mode just means you need to burn more fuel to recharge. I don't think you would see much benefit and the cost of the new battery would probably be more than the difference in price of trading in your car for a new one.

 

If you're battery charges to 75%, then it doesn't have enough room for all the potential regen energy that it might recapture. You can charge now or charge later, the net amount of fuel used will be the same unless it can't recapture all the regen energy, then you will have used more fuel, not less.

The solar idea might be a good one, but I'd be worried that the computer isn't programmed to expect charging when the car is not running, therefore it might get confused and not operate optimally.

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Does anyone know if you can charge the EV battery (not the 12v) with a solar charger so everytime you get in it, it is charged and ready to give you less engine run time? I know that the engine needs to warm up but if I'm in a warm location and the engine is already warm with battery "dead" then I have to drive to charge it. My question then points to same thing as last sentence except then it would be charged and ready to go. Has anyone done this or tried too?

 

And has anyone figured out how to change the charge point o the car? What I mean by this (no idea what to call it) is it always goes to the 50% mark when driving on cruise control (or parked position) and would like to see it go to 75% so you have a tad bit more juice to play with when you come out of it.

 

Last question. Anyone know if you can put the new 2013 battery into the 2010 so you have more drive time in EV mode?

 

If you post, thank you for the time of answering!

The answers are No, No, and No.

The HVB is 275 Vdc and can't and shouldn't be accessed by users.

The charge point is determined by design for maximum battery life and the ability to accept regen braking charge and to supply transient acceleration energy. If the HVB was fully charged, it couldn't accept brake energy which is the big advantage of ICE hybrids.

The HVBs are different voltages and types with different management systems. In a non-plug in ICE hybrid, you want to AVOID EV mode except at low speeds because it is less efficient than the ICE direct drive. It's a carefully designed compromise the way it is. Just drive it.

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  • 5 weeks later...

"Does anyone know if you can charge the EV battery (not the 12v) with a solar charger so everytime you get in it, it is charged and ready to give you less engine run time? I know that the engine needs to warm up but if I'm in a warm location and the engine is already warm with battery "dead" then I have to drive to charge it. My question then points to same thing as last sentence except then it would be charged and ready to go. Has anyone done this or tried too?

 

And has anyone figured out how to change the charge point o the car? What I mean by this (no idea what to call it) is it always goes to the 50% mark when driving on cruise control (or parked position) and would like to see it go to 75% so you have a tad bit more juice to play with when you come out of it."

 

 

 

Bumping this back up to the top to see if anyone has researched or achieved any of the original posts?!?!

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