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What about changing oil in the V6?


biznaga
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Just read of the problems changing the oil filter in the I-4 engine.

 

Does that information apply to the V6 also?

 

Hi biznaga. No. And the "problems" with the I-4 are caused more by "user error", than any real problem with the filter design.

 

Good luck!.

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So, the V6 has reg filter?

 

Or is the filter in a more accessable spot?

 

I've changed the oil in my SE V6 AWD twice now. Two things:

 

The factory oil filter was on very tightly. I work in a non-Ford dealership. I had to use one of the tech's three-pointed "claw" to dig into the filter to turn it.

 

Also, the engine pipe gets hot very quickly and is located near the oil filter. I burned my arm in trying to turn the filter.

 

Other than that - it's a breeze! Also, the Motorcraft oil filter can be purchased inexpensively at an Auto Zone type of store.

 

John

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  • 1 month later...
I've changed the oil in my SE V6 AWD twice now. Two things:

 

The factory oil filter was on very tightly. I work in a non-Ford dealership. I had to use one of the tech's three-pointed "claw" to dig into the filter to turn it.

 

Also, the engine pipe gets hot very quickly and is located near the oil filter. I burned my arm in trying to turn the filter.

 

Other than that - it's a breeze! Also, the Motorcraft oil filter can be purchased inexpensively at an Auto Zone type of store.

 

John

 

Did my first oil change at just shy of 3000 miles and you weren't kidding about that filter being on TIGHT! I was using a T-handle style strap wrench and it wasn't going anywhere until I got some extra leverage via the handle from a bottle jack.

 

On a side note, used the recommended 5W-20 blend and a Wix filter. I think it's ridiculous for any passenger car engine to require more than 5 quarts of oil.

 

Dave

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  • 4 weeks later...

When I took my car for its first (free) oil and filter change, the tech (who welcomed me into the service area) said that the filter was not hard to remove at all, however when he went to remove the oil drain plug, it came off too easy. He just barely touched the socket to the drain plug and he could see that the drain plug was loose, right from the manufacturer.

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The LS V6 holds 7 quarts...

 

My '70 Boss 302 Mustang holds 7 quarts as well, so I'm not harboring the notion that a rogue engineer in Dearborn figured one extra quart per oil change would give a boost to his Exxon Mobil stock. Maybe I should have phrased that statement "Does anyone else think it's ridiculous........"

 

Perhaps they figure that, with a suggested oil change interval of 7500 miles, it's a cheap bit of insurance once there are lots of Fusions on the road with 150k miles and leaky rear main seals.

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I would like to meet the genius that decided to put that plastic cover under the engine that has a removable door for the oil filter. Because when you just take the small oil filter door off the large plastic cover and take the filter off all the oil runs out of the engine at the filter connect runs right onto the plastic cover making a huge mess. So if anybody has a 2010 3.0L I recommend taking the whole cover off the under side of the engine before removing the oil filter

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I would like to meet the genius that decided to put that plastic cover under the engine that has a removable door for the oil filter. Because when you just take the small oil filter door off the large plastic cover and take the filter off all the oil runs out of the engine at the filter connect runs right onto the plastic cover making a huge mess. So if anybody has a 2010 3.0L I recommend taking the whole cover off the under side of the engine before removing the oil filter

 

Howdy fellow FUSION travelers!!!

Where is a good HOW-to service/change all the fluids on the 3.0.

I just bought a 2008 with 60k. I am thinking of puting IN my old trusty German Castrol (0w-30w) first then coolant flush and fill.

Please advise as I would like to avoid the SOB & DOH moments.

 

-PEACE-

Edited by morgan2112
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I would like to meet the genius that decided to put that plastic cover under the engine that has a removable door for the oil filter. Because when you just take the small oil filter door off the large plastic cover and take the filter off all the oil runs out of the engine at the filter connect runs right onto the plastic cover making a huge mess. So if anybody has a 2010 3.0L I recommend taking the whole cover off the under side of the engine before removing the oil filter

 

I usually cut a piece of cardboard to make a "ramp" for the oil. Held vertically, with its edge up against the oil pan flange, it's possible to prevent most of the oil running back under the pan.

 

I agree it's a STUPID design. Probably by an "engineer" who's never had his hands dirty.

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Oil filter access is actually easier now than it used to be years back. I had a Chevy Citation with the "Iron Duke" 4 -cylinder enigne that was originally designed in the early 60s,and never intended for transverse mounting. The oil filter was almost inaccessible. The factory recommended method was to jack the car up and remove the right front whee! I eventually figured out a way to get at it without doing that, and I would use a piece of aluminum foil and shape a "sluice" for the oil to run down. Other cars I owned had easier access to the filter but it was still almost impossible to avoid oil running down all over the frame members, crossmember etc. The aluminum foil trick served me well.

 

Now there's a new product called Form-A-Funnel that might be just what you're looking for. It can be easily shaped by hand and cleans up easily afterward.

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  • 1 month later...

 

I am thinking of puting IN my old trusty German Castrol (0w-30w).

Please advise as I would like to avoid the SOB & DOH moments.

This is not your father's Geländewagen. GC is a very thick 30 (almost a 40) and the Duratec 3.0 is spec'd for 5W-20. Don't get me wrong; GC is a great oil, just not for this application. It will run forever on the factory-recommended Motorcraft 5W-20 and that's a lot easier to find than GC, too.
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