akirby Posted October 22, 2014 Author Share Posted October 22, 2014 13B17 also makes it less likely for the PCM to go into limp home mode to begin with. 13N03 doesn't say Recall because it's not a Recall despite what the dealer says. A Recall is a very specific legal action requiring all affected vehicles to be either inspected and/or repaired. An extended warranty just agrees to fix any vehicles with the problem for a longer period of time. If only 20% of Fusions have this problem for 3 model years that means fixing 180,000 vehicles. A recall would require replacing 100% which would be 900,000 throttle bodies. It seems silly to essentially throw away 720,000 perfectly good throttle bodies without a direct significant safety threat especially if the programming significantly reduces the impact of the problem. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Waldo Posted October 22, 2014 Share Posted October 22, 2014 I felt rightfully vindicated six months later when Ford admitted the problem and offered to reimburse those who had already paid! If I remember, it was still not a recall- I believe though it affected a large number of vehicles, it evidently didn't exactly meet the narrow criteria for a recall- actual death count or potential! Nit picking in my opinion! It's not nit-picking, issuing a recall is a very serious thing. A recall means that in a lot of places a customer wouldn't be able to sell or even register a vehicle until the recall is performed. If parts aren't readily available, that's a big inconvenience to anyone for a problem they don't have and are never going to have. As akirby said, issuing a recall is a much, much bigger financial commitment as well, probably on the order of 10x. For some reason, people seem to think that recalls are paid for by some big corporation, but the reality is they are paid by customers. Recall costs are built into Ford's business model and are accounted for in the price of the cars. Issuing fewer recalls results in a lower price for you. It's nice to think that the cost of safety should never be an issue, but the reality is it's all about risk vs cost. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2012 Fusion Owner Posted October 30, 2014 Share Posted October 30, 2014 Sorry, couldn't find the one I had, but there are places to find them if you look for a while. There's a guy on another Ford forum saying that he will send you any TSB via private message because he couldn't find them reliably hosted anywhere. I'm assuming there's a reason you don't see them up on the internet for very long, so give that guy a PM. I'd get more specific, but it would probably violate a forum rule or two. Edit: Found it - http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/acms/cs/jaxrs/download/doc/UCM451434/CSC-10054926-3569.pdf You can get pretty much any TSB or recall you want there it looks like. One of the few times the government actually came through for me, lol. Thanks for posting this link. I came across the throttle body issue while searching the NHTSA site to see if my Fusion is involved in the air bag debacle. I called Ford because I never received the 13N03 notice. It turns out my car is involved in 13N03. Ford couldn't say why I didn't receive the notice. I was told to contact my dealer if I want a copy of the letter. Never received the 13B17 notice either; and no reminder postcards from my dealer. I haven't moved since buying this car three years ago, and I get all my other mail, so it appears Ford simply hasn't been sending me the notices. There could be lots of people who weren't sent the notices by Ford, not just me and jreilly37 above. No problems so far at 36 months and 36,000 miles. I suppose I ought to look into taking care of 13B17 if it would "makes it less likely for the PCM to go into limp home mode." 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ssdudu12 Posted April 1, 2015 Share Posted April 1, 2015 I too have the same question. Ordered Throttle body Part # DS7Z-9E926-D from amazon to replace the original ending in suffix "A". The box I received had that number, but when I pulled it out of the box the new part had #DS7E-9F991-AF on the sticker. Did I get the right part? or did they pull one over on me and send me the faulty original part? I've read that this may be an engineering/factory part number which doesn't always match up with service part numbers. The date stamp on the plastic cover says June 2014 so it seems like this is the right part as it is fairy recent manufacturing date. However, I would like some additional confirmation if someone has any insight. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
me32 Posted April 5, 2015 Share Posted April 5, 2015 Any confirmation about the throttle body and part number? 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ssdudu12 Posted April 14, 2015 Share Posted April 14, 2015 Confirmed that the part number I got was indeed the right one. The "AF" is an engineering/factory number and corresponds to the suffix "D" service part number. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chrism108 Posted June 29, 2015 Share Posted June 29, 2015 My daughter was driving her 2009 Ford Fusion to college orientation. The car went into "Limp" mode on the highway due to a defective throttle body assembly and ultimately stopped running. She was stranded overnight until the car was towed and fixed with a new throttle body assembly at a Ford dealership. Ford didn't honor their Consumer Satisfaction Program 13N03 for my car. The service manager and Ford customer service said my car did not fall within the parameters of the replacement program. I have a case number from Ford involving the defective throttle body, but nobody has followed up with me and I assume the case is closed. The service manager said he did not know why my car would not be covered since it's the same defect that's addressed by their Customer Satisfaction program. The repair bill was $669.60. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chrism108 Posted June 29, 2015 Share Posted June 29, 2015 Just to clarify, the car is a 2009 model and has 81,000 miles on it. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akirby Posted June 29, 2015 Author Share Posted June 29, 2015 If she was unable to restart the vehicle then it may not have been the same problem. I agree though that all model years should have been covered for all types of TB failures. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drolds1 Posted June 29, 2015 Share Posted June 29, 2015 It's upsetting that your daughter was stranded. I have a daughter and I'd be upset as well. However, the CSP you referred to covers Fusion MYs 2010-2012, depending on the engine. Earlier Fusions are not covered, although 2009 Escapes/Mariners are. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subcooled81 Posted June 8, 2016 Share Posted June 8, 2016 I just had my TB replaced today under 13N03B. I feel like it drives better, and it is nice knowing it won't fail mid drive. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbrian4 Posted July 11, 2018 Share Posted July 11, 2018 Sorry to post in this old thread, but it seems like the appropriate place. I just experienced the wrench light and limp home mode Sunday night. Had happened before but this time required a tow since it kept doing it repeatedly (and engine light came on) and I was far from home. Doing some research, I was fairly certain it was the throttle body. Sure enough dealer reads codes and it's just as suspected. Now, I was also aware of the customer satisfaction program 13N03 and mentioned this to the dealer. Mine is a 2010 Fusion 2.5L with 127k miles so I was sure it fell under the extended warranty parameters. Service tech said it wasn't showing up and he wasn't sure why. After some searching, turns out it's because mine is manual transmission! Now I am genuinely annoyed about this because as far as I am aware, it is the exact same part used regardless of transmission type. Am I wrong here? Is there any chance of getting this reimbursed? I have to say it's put a real sour taste in my mouth (above what has otherwise been a great experience with this car) to see Ford pull a cheap move like this to save a buck. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noahfreak Posted July 11, 2018 Share Posted July 11, 2018 (edited) That's a bummer cbrian4. I envy your manual transmission. Been dealing with automatic transmission failures lately on my Fords (no longer own the Fusion though). To your question, it might be that the extended warranty applied to automatic transmission cars only due to the fact that this is a safety related extended warranty. It could be that due to the fact that you have a manual you have more control over the car by being able to take it out of gear and coast to the side of the road, whereas an auto would just very quickly decelerate on its own, therefore not as much of a safety issue with the manual. This may or may not be helpful, but I feel like it should be said anyway. It's a sub $100 part at this point, so I would try not to get too bent out of shape about it. Just buy one, swap it yourself (very easy job) and be done with it. Take solace in the fact that you don't have to change your motor and transmission within 15k of your current mileage like I did with my Ecoboost Flex (130k and 140k respectively). About 6 grand in repairs for me over the last couple years, and that's just for parts. Your 2.5L 4 and your manual transmission will probably go to 250k before you have any major issues, maybe more. Point being, it could be a lot worse. Edited July 11, 2018 by Noahfreak 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drolds1 Posted July 11, 2018 Share Posted July 11, 2018 Unfortunately, that is the case: Quote NOTE: Hybrid and manual transmission vehicles are NOT included in this program. However, as pointed out above, this a relatively inexpensive and quick fix. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sirtanon Posted July 11, 2018 Share Posted July 11, 2018 Yep.. Less than $50 on Amazon. I bought one of these myself 2 years ago, and installed it myself. Took less than 90 minutes start to finish. Definitely an easy DIY fix. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbrian4 Posted July 11, 2018 Share Posted July 11, 2018 Thanks for the responses, yeah I suppose it could be much much worse. Nice to know you can get parts so cheap. It's a fun car to drive so I'll probably run it 'till it's dead. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbrian4 Posted December 15, 2018 Share Posted December 15, 2018 Alright, sorry to necropost again but back in july I had the throttle body assembly replaced (at the dealer cause I hadn't realized how easy of a diy fix it was). Anyways, this morning my car refuses to turn over and has the wrench and check engine light on. It cranks just fine, I'm assuming its a failsafe keeping it from turning over. I pulled the code and got p2107. From what I can gather, this could indicate a number of causes from the throttle body, the tps, pcm, or even the pedal sensor. I am seeing 18% on throttle percent even though the car is not running, I'm assuming that isn't right and points to the tps (which is part of the throttle body right?). So here's the dilema: If its the throttle body again, I assume the dealer would replace it under warranty since it's less than 6 months old, but I can't get it there without towing and It's sounding like they won't cover that. The tow alone would cost more than just buying the part and replacing it myself. So I guess my question is, how likely is it that the PCM is the problem here? I think they may have flashed it when I took it in back in July. Are there other things I could do to narrow down the cause of this code without taking it in? Trying to decide if I should just gamble and buy and replace the cheap part, or tow it to the dealer. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eGuru Posted December 16, 2018 Share Posted December 16, 2018 5 hours ago, cbrian4 said: Alright, sorry to necropost again but back in july I had the throttle body assembly replaced (at the dealer cause I hadn't realized how easy of a diy fix it was). Anyways, this morning my car refuses to turn over and has the wrench and check engine light on. It cranks just fine, I'm assuming its a failsafe keeping it from turning over. I pulled the code and got p2107. From what I can gather, this could indicate a number of causes from the throttle body, the tps, pcm, or even the pedal sensor. I am seeing 18% on throttle percent even though the car is not running, I'm assuming that isn't right and points to the tps (which is part of the throttle body right?). So here's the dilema: If its the throttle body again, I assume the dealer would replace it under warranty since it's less than 6 months old, but I can't get it there without towing and It's sounding like they won't cover that. The tow alone would cost more than just buying the part and replacing it myself. So I guess my question is, how likely is it that the PCM is the problem here? I think they may have flashed it when I took it in back in July. Are there other things I could do to narrow down the cause of this code without taking it in? Trying to decide if I should just gamble and buy and replace the cheap part, or tow it to the dealer. You say your Fusion "refuses to turn over" and "It cranks just fine". This is a bit confusing as, to me, "crank" and "turn over" are equivalent. Regardless, if P2107 is the only code, then replacing the ETB is probably your least costly option. If there are other codes also present, then you need to explore those first. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drolds1 Posted December 16, 2018 Share Posted December 16, 2018 20 hours ago, eGuru said: You say your Fusion "refuses to turn over" and "It cranks just fine". This is a bit confusing as, to me, "crank" and "turn over" are equivalent. Exactly! 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akirby Posted December 17, 2018 Author Share Posted December 17, 2018 I assume he means that it’s turning over (the starter is turning the flywheel) but it’s not firing up. Very confusing language though. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbrian4 Posted December 21, 2018 Share Posted December 21, 2018 (edited) Yes, I apologize for the unclear language. What I meant to say was that it cranks but wont actually start. At any rate, I went ahead and replaced it and unfortunately looks like it wasn't the cause of the code. Interestingly, the p2107 code is shown as "permanent" and I am unable to clear it. Throttle still showing at 18% Any other ideas before I tow it to the dealer? For reference, when I replaced it, I did short the disconnected ground cable to the positive terminal for a bit before re-connecting the battery. I then turned the key and let it sit for a minute before trying to start. Edited December 21, 2018 by cbrian4 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eGuru Posted December 22, 2018 Share Posted December 22, 2018 Did you pull the code yourself? If P2107 is the ONLY code and there is no indication of even an occasional ignition event, then internet diagnosis is probably not going to result in a quick resolution. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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