Hard Wiring in a radar detector - 2013 Fusion Titanium.... help??

[asperber]

Hi, I have a 2013 Ford Fusion Titanium and am looking to hard wire in my Escort 9500ix detector. I understand the options to wire it in are:

 

(a) use an add-a-fuse kit or a fuse tap kit and tap into an existing fuse for an ignition-switched item

 

( use a wire-splice kit to tap into a wire

 

I'd like to use option B and tap into an existing wire in the center console, around the headunit, MyFord Touch. I am having trouble finding a good wire to use! Any advice? I'd prefer to not use the auto-dimming mirror as then I would have to run a wire around the trim, down the pillar and to the center.

 

Thanks for your help!

[drolds1]

IDK which wire to tap into but right now Add-A-Circuit isn't an option. I've been meaning to post this information but I was away for a couple of weeks and just haven't gotten around to it until being motivated by your question. For anyone looking to install a dashcam, radar detector or anything that needs switched power in the gen-2 cars, this might interest you.

 

I've used Add-A-Circuit adapters for years. They're a safe and clean way to tap into a car's fusebox. I used one to install a dashcam in my 2012 MKZ. The dashcam needs switched power. I got an unwelcome surprise when I attempted to install the dashcam in my 2014 MKZ. The 2013+ Fusion/MKZ uses two new types of fuses, i.e., micro2 and micro3. The 2012 used mini fuses or type ATM. The body of the micro2 fuse (type APT) in the 2013-4 is smaller but wider than that of the mini, yet the blades are wider. Therefore, my existing mini Add-A-Circuit wouldn't work. Here is an illustration of the various automotive blade fuses now in use. Note that the micro3, also used in our cars, has three blades. If that's not complicated enough, there's also a low-profile micro fuse for which an Add-A-Circuit is available in the U.S. but there's no way that'll work. I figured, OK, I'll just go to the auto parts store or online and order the appropriate Add-A-Circuit. That's when I got another unpleasant surprise: there isn't one, at least not in the U.S. My attempts to get ahold of one have been on and off since April. When I started researching, I found that Ford starting using these fuses in the 2012 F-150 and Chrysler did so in the 2013 Rams and Jeeps. I found this information due to owners in the same predicament complaining in various forums. I did find micro2 Add-A-Circuits on the websites of two Chinese distributors of automotive electrical parts. I contacted both. One never answered and the other said that they'd be happy to help me out if I met their requirements, which were a minimum order of 3000 pieces at $2.00 each! Not to mention clearing customs, etc.

 

I was not about to use the quick and dirty method of jamming a wire into the fuse box. While this might work for a while I think that jury-rigging the sophisticated electrical systems in these cars will lead to future problems. What might have worked in previous generations is no longer appropriate IMO. I'm confident our resident Ford electrical expert, thefoeyouknow, will back me up on this. I don't like those plastic wiretaps you squeeze on and cut into the wire either.

 

I found that a company called Tessco Technologies is a distributor of micro2 pigtail fuses. This a conventional looking fuse that has a power lead coming off of one side. It looks like a reasonable substitute for the Add-A-Circuit. I'd have to buy a minimum of 12 pieces for about $30 but that's way better than $6G. I was about to bite the bullet on this when just last week, lo and behold, a U.S. company called Optifuse has recently added a micro2 Add-A-Circuit to their catalog. I'll contact them next week and post the results.

Edited August 1, 2014 by drolds1

[drolds1]

Followup

 

Well, hallelujah! A micro2 Add-a-Circuit finally became available in the U.S. just a few weeks ago. It's currently available on ebay for $8.95. I jumped right on this. Frankly, after months of waiting, I would have paid twice as much or more. My dashcam is back up and running and I'm a happy camper.

 

Of course, the installation was not without issues. Ford did not make this easy. Aside from the micro2 issue, if you thought the fusebox/SJB was hard to get at on the first-gen cars, wait till you try one of these. It's way up under the left side of the IP and angled towards the rear. I had to lay on my back with one leg up in the air to access it. If you have anything bigger than baby hands good luck pulling these tiny fuses. There are cables in the way and a large plug at the bottom of the panel which obscures a couple of fuses. There's a fuse puller clipped to the panel but it's virtually useless. I had to use small needlenose pliers. If that wasn't enough, the dashcam works on switched power. Well, in my MKZ, what you would normally think are switched circuits are hot. I went through many circuits to no avail and was about to give up when I finally found one that worked. In my car, it's no. 36 (Continuous control damping suspension, Auto-dimming rear view mirror, Lane keeping system module). IDK what works in a Fusion. Trial and error is necessary here.

 

[2ndNewFordGuy]

On 9/6/2014 at 11:12 PM, drolds1 said:

Followup

 

Well, hallelujah! A micro2 Add-a-Circuit finally became available in the U.S. just a few weeks ago. It's currently available on ebay for $8.95. I jumped right on this. Frankly, after months of waiting, I would have paid twice as much or more. My dashcam is back up and running and I'm a happy camper.

 

Of course, the installation was not without issues. Ford did not make this easy. Aside from the micro2 issue, if you thought the fusebox/SJB was hard to get at on the first-gen cars, wait till you try one of these. It's way up under the left side of the IP and angled towards the rear. I had to lay on my back with one leg up in the air to access it. If you have anything bigger than baby hands good luck pulling these tiny fuses. There are cables in the way and a large plug at the bottom of the panel which obscures a couple of fuses. There's a fuse puller clipped to the panel but it's virtually useless. I had to use small needlenose pliers. If that wasn't enough, the dashcam works on switched power. Well, in my MKZ, what you would normally think are switched circuits are hot. I went through many circuits to no avail and was about to give up when I finally found one that worked. In my car, it's no. 36 (Continuous control damping suspension, Auto-dimming rear view mirror, Lane keeping system module). IDK what works in a Fusion. Trial and error is necessary here.

 

Question. Is this now available more broadly than ebay and if so, what exactly should be my search phrase? "2017 Ford Fusion Micro2 Add-a-circuit" (or) is there a model number that might provide a narrower result?

[2ndNewFordGuy]

On 9/6/2014 at 11:12 PM, drolds1 said:

Followup

 

Well, hallelujah! A micro2 Add-a-Circuit finally became available in the U.S. just a few weeks ago. It's currently available on ebay for $8.95. I jumped right on this. Frankly, after months of waiting, I would have paid twice as much or more. My dashcam is back up and running and I'm a happy camper.

 

Of course, the installation was not without issues. Ford did not make this easy. Aside from the micro2 issue, if you thought the fusebox/SJB was hard to get at on the first-gen cars, wait till you try one of these. It's way up under the left side of the IP and angled towards the rear. I had to lay on my back with one leg up in the air to access it. If you have anything bigger than baby hands good luck pulling these tiny fuses. There are cables in the way and a large plug at the bottom of the panel which obscures a couple of fuses. There's a fuse puller clipped to the panel but it's virtually useless. I had to use small needlenose pliers. If that wasn't enough, the dashcam works on switched power. Well, in my MKZ, what you would normally think are switched circuits are hot. I went through many circuits to no avail and was about to give up when I finally found one that worked. In my car, it's no. 36 (Continuous control damping suspension, Auto-dimming rear view mirror, Lane keeping system module). IDK what works in a Fusion. Trial and error is necessary here.

 

soo basically THIS?

https://www.amazon.com/Uriveusa-Add-Circuit-Adapter-Holder/dp/B01LFXA5YQ/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1505490617&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=Micro2+Add-a-circuit&psc=1

? in case commercial links are a no no and it gets jacked, agian it's

/Uriveusa-Add-Circuit-Adapter-Holder/dp/B01LFXA5YQ/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1505490617&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=Micro2+Add-a-circuit&psc=1

with amazon dot com in front of it.

ANYWAY guessing, you remove the fuse of whatever ckt you think will do, replace it with this thing then put fuse you pulled out into the back of this. The single lead coming off of it I assume to be "+/hot" which means, pardon me if this is a dumb question, but, I'll still need to locate a decent to-body/frame-ground point also? My LED strip won't light up just with this or will it? (I linked in from a different topic, I'm trying to do foot-well LED lighting)

Thanks 

Edited September 15, 2017 by 2ndNewFordGuy

[drolds1]

8 hours ago, 2ndNewFordGuy said:

soo basically THIS?

https://www.amazon.com/Uriveusa-Add-Circuit-Adapter-Holder/dp/B01LFXA5YQ/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1505490617&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=Micro2+Add-a-circuit&psc=1

? in case commercial links are a no no and it gets jacked, agian it's

/Uriveusa-Add-Circuit-Adapter-Holder/dp/B01LFXA5YQ/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1505490617&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=Micro2+Add-a-circuit&psc=1

with amazon dot com in front of it.

ANYWAY guessing, you remove the fuse of whatever ckt you think will do, replace it with this thing then put fuse you pulled out into the back of this. The single lead coming off of it I assume to be "+/hot" which means, pardon me if this is a dumb question, but, I'll still need to locate a decent to-body/frame-ground point also? My LED strip won't light up just with this or will it? (I linked in from a different topic, I'm trying to do foot-well LED lighting)

Thanks 

As long as it's Micro2, you're good.

 

Yes, the lead is the "hot" or power wire and you need to find a good ground for whatever you're powering.  The LED strip should work with no issues.  The limit on the Add-a-Circuit is 10 amps.   Your LED strip is probably well below that.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited September 16, 2017 by drolds1

[2ndNewFordGuy]

12 hours ago, drolds1 said:

As long as it's Micro2, you're good.

 

Yes, the lead is the "hot" or power wire and you need to find a good ground for whatever you're powering.  The LED strip should work with no issues.  The limit on the Add-a-Circuit is 10 amps.   Your LED strip is probably well below that.

 

 

 

 

 

 

yeah I haven't actually picked one up yet, there's a couple decent choices on AMZ and I've also seen something I could use at a local H/W store (similar to Lowes). I'm SURE they're all WELL below 10 amps. Probably below 5.

Tapping into switched power is a bigger challenge than I expected s'all.

[2ndNewFordGuy]

I really need to get up under mine with a good flashlight and the right GLASSES and see what I can see... Mostly it SOUNDS LIKE you guys are referencing, mostly, 2012, 2013-14-15's....  I'm sure you guys are right but I'm holding out a dim hope my 2017, is, in-some-less-of-a-nightmare-way, different.

For...

TINY HANDS I have not.

Bad back? Check.  Last under the dash work on my FOCUS (a clutch cylinder) I paid to have done.

Edited September 16, 2017 by 2ndNewFordGuy