geopilot Posted August 12, 2014 Share Posted August 12, 2014 (edited) The A/C on my 2010 Fusion Hybrid has stopped working. Compressor does not come on at all. I've read about an evaporator temperature sensor problem in the older Fusions. Is this a possibility on the hybrids also? Does this problem throw a code I can get read at AutoZone? Anyone tackled the dash removal required for replacement, if that is the problem? Thanks Edited August 12, 2014 by geopilot 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drolds1 Posted August 12, 2014 Share Posted August 12, 2014 Before you decide that this is the source of your problem, these are possible causes for inoperative A/C (compressor): Fuse(s) Wiring, terminals or connectors PCM HVAC module FCIM ACM A/C evaporator discharge temperature sensor A/C pressure transducer A/C compressor clutch field coil A/C control relay A/C clutch air gap Also note: When an A/C request is received by the PCM, the A/C compressor clutch will only be engaged through the A/C clutch relay if all of the following conditions are met: The PCM does not detect excessively high or low refrigerant pressure from the A/C pressure transducer. The PCM does not detect excessively high engine coolant temperature. The PCM does not detect an ambient air temperature below -1°C (30°F). The PCM has not detected a Wide Open Throttle (WOT) condition. The HVAC module does not detect an evaporator discharge air temperature below 2°C (36°F). I seriously doubt Autozone has the equipment to pull HVAC codes but why not call and ask? This is probably a job best left to the pros. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lolder Posted August 12, 2014 Share Posted August 12, 2014 I don't think there's any clutch or control relay in the hybrid. It has a variable speed electric compressor. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drolds1 Posted August 13, 2014 Share Posted August 13, 2014 I don't think there's any clutch or control relay in the hybrid. It has a variable speed electric compressor. Could be. I looked in the wrong manual. Good catch. I still don't think he should assume anything and start tearing his IP/dash apart without a proper diagnosis. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geopilot Posted August 18, 2014 Author Share Posted August 18, 2014 Just an update: A/C started working normally this weekend. So problem is intermittent- will keep an eye on it for now. Did purchase an OBD2 adapter for use with Forscan software- no codes set. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lolder Posted August 18, 2014 Share Posted August 18, 2014 Well it's probably a switch or sensor or connection rather than a leak or bad compressor. Keep us advised. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geopilot Posted August 24, 2014 Author Share Posted August 24, 2014 Continuing to have intermittent AC on my 2010 FFH. No correlation to temperature or other operating conditions. Starting to wonder if it could be related to the 12V battery starting to go? Sight glass on battery is black, but no other low voltage symptoms. I did pull a code from the accessory protocol interface module using FORScan (nothing in the air conditioning module). The code is U0100- lost communication with ECM/PCM. I don't think this has anything to do with the AC, but could result from a low voltage situation. Next step is to get the 12V battery load tested (resting voltage is 12.7). Does the AC compressor run off the HV or 12V battery? 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lolder Posted August 25, 2014 Share Posted August 25, 2014 High voltage. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geopilot Posted September 7, 2014 Author Share Posted September 7, 2014 AC was still not working. Confirmed system had full charge. Decided to replace evaporator temperature sensor. It's a big job, but not difficult- just time consuming. Followed great DIY video on You Tube- the hybrid is a little different, but got it done without major problems, and no broken trim or clips. Temp sensor was corroded and had open circuit. Installed new sensor and AC is now working normally! So yes, the temp sensors do go bad on the hybrids, and no codes are set. Center console, shifter, and dash have to come out. 2010 FFH, 68k miles. Thanks for the help guys. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lolder Posted September 7, 2014 Share Posted September 7, 2014 (edited) You're an accomplished and brave man to do it yourself. Bravo ! Can you put up a link to that YouTube ? Edited September 7, 2014 by lolder 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geopilot Posted September 7, 2014 Author Share Posted September 7, 2014 Sure- here's the video, done by an awesome Ford tech. Could not have done it without it. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lolder Posted September 8, 2014 Share Posted September 8, 2014 Was the 2010 any different from the 2008 described? Did you have a 501 or 502 ( nav )? 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geopilot Posted September 8, 2014 Author Share Posted September 8, 2014 Mine does not have nav, but should not make any difference. I disconnected the battery but before that, another post recommended moving the seats forward, removing the two screws on the side of the rear console, then moving the seats all the way back before disconnecting the negative lead on the 12V battery. Also check that the pinch bolt on the steering column is facing back so you can get a socket on it without having to turn the wheel. Some other differences with the 2010 Hybrid that I found: - extra connector in the rear console to the 110V AC outlet- pull rear panel out at bottom and it will swing up and you can disconnect it - no splines on the steering column shaft- just 4 flats so easy to keep aligned, but mark it anyway - extra support bracket and 13mm bolt on passenger side of center console- this bracket will hit the center tunnel when you rotate the dash so watch the wiring to avoid damage - instrument cluster is different- 2 screws at top hold the trim, and the lower clips pull out, not up. Then 3 screws hold instrument cluster, easy to remove and disconnect. - 3 connectors in passenger footwell- large one and 2 antenna connectors (radio and satellite I think) Other than these- it was very similar. Go easy on the A-pillar trim, pull down rather than out so the clip slides out of the plastic mount. The clip will stay on the car, need to twist it out and replace in trim piece to re-install. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lolder Posted September 8, 2014 Share Posted September 8, 2014 I sure hope I don't have this problem. I used to do stuff like that but I'm getting old. I don't see your location so I'm hoping my Florida location where AC is used most of the year might reduce the incidence of the corrosion failure. Maybe it would make it worse. I use recirc exclusively. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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