Dukemeister Posted August 15, 2014 Share Posted August 15, 2014 Is cleaning the intake valves of carbon buildup something that we should do or be concerned about on these DI engines? If so is there a tutorial somewhere as to how to do it... eg where exactly to squirt the cleaner? 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Jim Posted August 15, 2014 Share Posted August 15, 2014 A Ford technician that often posts on the "other" Fusion forum posted about his experience with the 2.0 Ecoboost. The problem isn't that it is direct injection, it is the turbo. The chemical cleaners used on the typical induction cleaners are not recommended by Ford as the product of the cleaner and what it cleaned isn't safe for the turbo. If I recall correctly, he cleaned his by pulling the intake manifold and manually cleaning the carbon by chipping and scraping and using a shop vac to suck the stuff out. you might try a search over there for his two videos on the subject. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
junehhan Posted August 19, 2014 Share Posted August 19, 2014 I have wondered how in the world Ford keeps the intake side of the engine clean on these direct injected engines. Some manufacturers like Lexus to my knowledge utilize dual injection with both direct and multiport which helps to keep the intake side of the engine clean, but that is not the case with the Ecoboosts. Has deposit buildup ever been a problem so far on the Ecoboosts? 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeff711981 Posted August 19, 2014 Share Posted August 19, 2014 (edited) I have wondered how in the world Ford keeps the intake side of the engine clean on these direct injected engines. Some manufacturers like Lexus to my knowledge utilize dual injection with both direct and multiport which helps to keep the intake side of the engine clean, but that is not the case with the Ecoboosts. Has deposit buildup ever been a problem so far on the Ecoboosts? Yes, it has. The post above yours references a Ford mechanic who has had Ecoboost engines in the shop with poor engine performance (low power, miss, etc.) and has found the problem to be carbon deposits on the back of the intake valves. What we don't know is how likely this is to happen. Were the vehicles driven short trips without fully warming the engine? Was substandard oil used? Were the proper oil change intervals followed? Is the PCV system functioning properly? Honestly, if you're going to have problems due to this, it's going to happen before the 60,000 mile/5 year powertrain warranty is over, so you'll be taken care of, I'm sure. *EDIT* Also, one of the things I don't hear people mention consistently when talking about carbon buildup on intake valves with DI engines, is the type of oil being used. Some of Amsoil's Signature Series oils have very low NOACK volatility ratings of 5.3 and 5.5 for 10w30 and 5w20 respectively. This rating measures the oil's tendency to evaporate under certain conditions and the number is given as a percentage (grams per 100 grams, according to the test details). Amsoil reported what was supposedly an independent study (I say supposedly because I haven't confirmed it personally), which showed this: This is one of the big things that matters for our engines. The more oil evaporates at high temperatures, the more will be passed through the PCV system and circulate back through the intake and across the valves where deposits have the potential to form. Edited August 19, 2014 by jeff711981 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
junehhan Posted August 19, 2014 Share Posted August 19, 2014 What you state is correct as Amsoil has historically scored very well on the various volatility tests. I choose to use Mobil 1 because it is so darn cheap at Walmart(just bought another 5 qt jug for $22.68) and because it is a very good oil that will be superior to anything that comes as a factory fill. I would also wonder whether the EGR system might also help contribute to any deposit buildup issues as the EGR system is also part of the emissions system. Direct injection couldn't be all that bad considering that the Powerstroke guys have been utilizing it far before Ford started using DI in their petrol based engines. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeff711981 Posted August 19, 2014 Share Posted August 19, 2014 (edited) What you state is correct as Amsoil has historically scored very well on the various volatility tests. I choose to use Mobil 1 because it is so darn cheap at Walmart(just bought another 5 qt jug for $22.68) and because it is a very good oil that will be superior to anything that comes as a factory fill. I would also wonder whether the EGR system might also help contribute to any deposit buildup issues as the EGR system is also part of the emissions system. Direct injection couldn't be all that bad considering that the Powerstroke guys have been utilizing it far before Ford started using DI in their petrol based engines. EGR itself usually won't cause this problem. It's the oil vapors that are pulled from the crank case by the PCV system. Once you start getting some sticky oil buildup on the back of the valves, any carbon and sooty deposits that get recirculated from the EGR system add to the buildup. EGR is antiquated, if you ask me, and should go away. Most people understand that it's an emissions system, but they don't really understand what it does or have the wrong impression about what it does. It's main purpose is not to send exhaust back through to be "reburned." It's main function is that it's an inert gas - meaning, it doesn't react with fuel and burn. So it's recirculated into the intake to effectively reduce the oxygen content of the incoming air/fuel charge which means less fuel is required and lower combustion temperatures, the latter of which reduces NOx emissions (the main component to acid rain). This can now be accomplished better with variable valve timing (close the exhaust valve sooner so it doesn't have to recirculate, it just never leaves the combustion chamber) and more precise ignition timing and fuel control. The answer to the issue with PCV systems is to use an oil catch can/oil separator so the oil vapor condenses and drains back into the oil system rather than having the vapors pass through the intake to be burned. Edited August 19, 2014 by jeff711981 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeff711981 Posted August 19, 2014 Share Posted August 19, 2014 For the record... in most of the tests I've seen, Motorcraft Full Synthetic oil is on par with Valvoline and Castrol products in terms of its noack volatility scores. Just remember... Ford chooses an adequate oil as their recommended oil, not necessarily the best. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dukemeister Posted August 20, 2014 Author Share Posted August 20, 2014 Well, I have just changed to Mobil 1 extended and I won't worry about valves unless I notice someting amiss (pun intended). 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeff711981 Posted August 20, 2014 Share Posted August 20, 2014 Well, I have just changed to Mobil 1 extended and I won't worry about valves unless I notice someting amiss (pun intended). The difference between that and Amsoil's NOACK score is negligible. If you run into problems using the Mobile 1, you'll have had the same issues had you used Amsoil. I use Amsoil for more than just a low NOACK score. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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