VonoreTn Posted November 11, 2014 Share Posted November 11, 2014 I just finished replacing my upstream O2 sensor, to fix the the engine light, which coded out as P0130 on my $55 Autozone OBDII reader. It was not that easy, the slotted deep sockets did not work at removing the very frozen-in-the-manifold sensor. But once accomplished the light seems to be permanently out, and the code gone. Total cost, $72. Pictures available on requested. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Allamand Posted November 11, 2014 Share Posted November 11, 2014 Replaced both the upper and lower sensor when I bought our Hybrid 2 years ago with 80k, up to 130k now and have not done anything else but tires and oil. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lolder Posted November 12, 2014 Share Posted November 12, 2014 I just finished replacing my upstream O2 sensor, to fix the the engine light, which coded out as P0130 on my $55 Autozone OBDII reader. It was not that easy, the slotted deep sockets did not work at removing the very frozen-in-the-manifold sensor. But once accomplished the light seems to be permanently out, and the code gone. Total cost, $72. Pictures available on requested. Do you think this socket would do it? http://www.harborfreight.com/3-8-eighth-inch-offset-oxygen-sensor-wrench-97177.html 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VonoreTn Posted November 17, 2014 Author Share Posted November 17, 2014 (edited) Do you think this socket would do it? http://www.harborfreight.com/3-8-eighth-inch-offset-oxygen-sensor-wrench-97177.html That one might, I tried 2 of the longer slotted 7/8" sockets, and the slot opened up sufficiently to allow the socket to slip on the O2 sensor hex. Reading the reviews at Harbor Freight, it sounds like this is a superior socket to the ones I had and mechanics use the HF socket most of the time. By removing the six, 6mm bolts and lifting that heat shield, I was able to get a large crescent wrench on the sensor hex, with a 14" pipe on the wrench arm, and develop enough torque to finally loosen the sensor. The worse part about removing those 6 bolts, was that one fell into the tray below and it took me 40 minutes to find it and get it out with a mirror, special light, and a magnetic tool. I used rubberized cork on the rest of them so they would stay stuck in the socket when loose. Now if I ever have to remove the downstream O2 sensor, I don't think this will work, because that heat shield is trapped in that space, and I don't see how you could get a crescent wrench down there. Let me know how your tool works, being shorter than the 2 different ones I tried, there is less opportunity for the slot to open up. Edited November 17, 2014 by VonoreTn 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VonoreTn Posted November 17, 2014 Author Share Posted November 17, 2014 Replaced both the upper and lower sensor when I bought our Hybrid 2 years ago with 80k, up to 130k now and have not done anything else but tires and oil. Glad to hear of your success, and low maintenance cost since. I'm at 102k miles now, and everything is working fine. Did you use one of those slotted socket wrenches to get both of those sensors out? 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Allamand Posted November 18, 2014 Share Posted November 18, 2014 (edited) no, I didn't and it wasn't easy getting them lose either, I remember that. Lot of effort and elbow grease. If my memory recalls, I believe I soaked it with penetrating oil and cut of the plug so i could get the socket over it. Also, from an older post, I did have this issue, and it only happened when very hot outside, and has now been fixed, but one should be a where of it. "Well, winter came here in northern Wisconsin, and no more codes came. Spring time we were close to hitting 100k and I really wanted to get this ffigured out. So a warm spring day, I turned on the AC and drove like a mad man to work, early in the morning. Sure be, the light would come on, but this time I could not read a code on my reader. Well it turned to a cool sping and never was able to drive it to the dealer with the "wrench" light on, that is until today. It was 100F today after work, and the dealer is on the way home, so right before I drive by, the "wrench" pops up! Pulled in and left it running, and they were able to get me in right away. Talked to the service tech and he was able to pull a code well it was running. It is listed as "P0A7C" with TSB 11-7-31, same as "jelg2000" FFH had." and the answer, "P0A7C = Motor Electronics Over Temperature Meaning the motor controller electronics are overheating. The fix is a PCM reprogramming which probably increases the speed of the cooling pump in hot conditions. Edited November 18, 2014 by Allamand 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VonoreTn Posted November 19, 2014 Author Share Posted November 19, 2014 (edited) no, I didn't and it wasn't easy getting them lose either, I remember that. Lot of effort and elbow grease. If my memory recalls, I believe I soaked it with penetrating oil and cut of the plug so i could get the socket over it. I was afraid to cut the wire, for fear that the code P0130 would still be there and I just ruined a $72 O2 sensor. But I could have in hindsight, because the new O2 sensor turned off the engine light. "P0A7C = Motor Electronics Over Temperature Meaning the motor controller electronics are overheating. The fix is a PCM reprogramming which probably increases the speed of the cooling pump in hot conditions. I got the wrench light a couple of times 40k miles ago but it never stayed on long enough to get a code, so I more or less forgot about it. Maybe that was the problem and it was intermittent. It was in the summer. Was that issue paid for by the dealer because there was a TSB on it? Thanks for the background. Edited November 19, 2014 by VonoreTn 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Allamand Posted November 19, 2014 Share Posted November 19, 2014 I paid around $50 for the reprogram. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Allamand Posted November 19, 2014 Share Posted November 19, 2014 I paid around $50 for the reprogram. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VonoreTn Posted November 19, 2014 Author Share Posted November 19, 2014 I paid around $50 for the reprogram. That's pretty reasonable, I'll just pay it if I get the wrench light ever again with that code. Thanks. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mechaman Posted October 24, 2020 Share Posted October 24, 2020 I'm having this code, and was not able to budge the sensor (yet), and I've read some of the other fixes. What I'd like to know is if anyone knows of a reliable shop in the Chicago area that can fix thsi, or should I go to a dealer? 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VonoreTn Posted October 24, 2020 Author Share Posted October 24, 2020 Did you take the heat shield off? Is it the upper O2 sensor? Penetrating oil and at least 14 inches of leverage should do the job, once the heat shield is off. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mechaman Posted October 25, 2020 Share Posted October 25, 2020 9 hours ago, VonoreTn said: Did you take the heat shield off? Is it the upper O2 sensor? Penetrating oil and at least 14 inches of leverage should do the job, once the heat shield is off. It's the upper sensor, and if you mean the engine cover (it's a hybrid) yes, I did. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mechaman Posted November 14, 2020 Share Posted November 14, 2020 UPDATE: Finally took it to a dealer ... it was the lower sensor. Wish I could have gotten away with the top one, I had a replacement for that one; at least I won't have to sweat the emissions test this month. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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