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Frustrated with car stalling


jewellri
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  • 4 weeks later...

My started stalling after reversing out of parking spot and shifting into drive 3 weeks ago.  The stalling became a more frequent issue.  I use the same brand of gas, I keep up with maintenance, and I don’t abuse my car.  I talked to my local Ford dealership and not getting any answers but only suggestions on what it could be, but was pretty quick on trying to get me to leave it with them for a fee.  I decided not to do what the dealership wanted me to do based on reading other members post in this forum.  I brought the two fuel pressure sensors for my 2.0 ecoboost engine (9F972 CM5225 for $75 & 9F972 CM5226 for $35).  There is a slight difference between the sensors, so just do one sensor at a time.   CM5225 is located on the front left side by the drive belts on the fuel rail... you’re going to need a deep well 1 1/16 socket.  CM5226 is located near the battery on the fuel line coming from the gas tank... you’re going to need a deep well 24mm socket.  Let the car sit for a while, so the engine is cold and no pressure in the fuel lines (mine sat overnight and I had no gas pressure or gas spraying everywhere).  No even 10 minutes later, I had swapped out both sensors.  I’ve been driving around for a week now and I haven’t had any stalling issues since.  I also decided to change out my spark plugs since the fuel air mixture was off during the stalling issues.  I can’t guarantee that my suggestion will work for you, I’m just trying to share what I did.

9AE1BE9A-12A1-43A4-9792-C70926473649.png

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When it stalls, it doesn’t throw any codes, no check engine light... nothing. Process of elimination.  If that didn’t fix my stalling issues, then I would look at fuel control module, fuel pump, throttle body, etc.  The Ford service department thought it could be the sensors since it was a stocked item unlike the fuel module or fuel pump.  I didn’t believe it was the gas I buy because I have been buying from the same gas station for the last 7 years and I run premium gas even though it only calls for regular.

Edited by tyron695
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My started stalling after reversing out of parking spot and shifting into drive 3 weeks ago.  The stalling became a more frequent issue.  I use the same brand of gas, I keep up with maintenance, and I don’t abuse my car.  I talked to my local Ford dealership and not getting any answers but only suggestions on what it could be, but was pretty quick on trying to get me to leave it with them for a fee.  I decided not to do what the dealership wanted me to do based on reading other members post in this forum.  I brought the two fuel pressure sensors for my 2.0 ecoboost engine (9F972 CM5225 for $75 & 9F972 CM5226 for $35).  There is a slight difference between the sensors, so just do one sensor at a time.   CM5225 is located on the front left side by the drive belts on the fuel rail... you’re going to need a deep well 1 1/16 socket.  CM5226 is located near the battery on the fuel line coming from the gas tank... you’re going to need a deep well 24mm socket.  Let the car sit for a while, so the engine is cold and no pressure in the fuel lines (mine sat overnight and I had no gas pressure or gas spraying everywhere).  No even 10 minutes later, I had swapped out both sensors.  I’ve been driving around for a week now and I haven’t had any stalling issues since.  I also decided to change out my spark plugs since the fuel air mixture was off during the stalling issues.  I can’t guarantee that my suggestion will work for you, I’m just trying to share what I did.

9AE1BE9A-12A1-43A4-9792-C70926473649.png

B8A20A21-E703-400C-B776-1BFC76F9F6FA.png

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  • 2 months later...
  • 6 months later...

Hi everyone. My 2013 Ford Fusion Titanium also had stalled out three times one while driving on the Tappan Zee Bridge and two times around my neighborhood. I was checking the web and it looks like Ford knows about it. But they only singled it out to their SUVs and trucks. And some reason their sedans was overlooked. Even though this is rarely happening it's also extremely dangerous. Ford did a great job designing the car but the fuel pressure sensor is kind of a obvious thing to check when you're building a car. That kind of carelessness makes me not want to buy another Ford ever again. 

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  • 5 months later...

Glad I found this thread. I have a 13 fusion 2.0t with 45k miles and it's been doing this at random exactly as described in this thread. 20 min park. Pull out and it dies.

 

I decided to begin with the rear sensor. I tried to remove it and even trying to hold the lines below I could not get it to budge. I was afraid of breaking the line or twisting the neck so I gave up.

 

How hard are you guys cranking on the rear sensor?

Edited by Saml01
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  • 2 weeks later...

hello all. 

Ive been also having trouble with my 2013 ford fusion titanium this month. 

it died the first time on march 12. i got home from work (35 min drive) and went inside for maybe 20 mins. started it up to leave and died sortly after i put it in drive. It sputters and jerks before finally dying. 

the second time it died was march 23rd. i went into the city (30 min drive) went into a store and then it died after i put it into drive. both times it will start hard after dying but then drives off fine. 

no check engine light. 

I called the dealership and they’ve never dealt with this problem before. He said it very well could be the fuel pressure sensor but he thought it would throw the check engine light on. they want 130 bucks to diagnosis it. 

after i talked to them i kept reading on this thread. there was posts about over filling your tank. 

i put two and two together and on march 7th i was filling up my tank and the gas pump didn’t click off when my tank was full so it ran out of my tank just long enough for me to turn around and turn the nozzle off. 

any insite would be helpful. i would rather not pay 130 bucks if they’re not going to be able to recreate it or find any codes. 

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I don't know what the relationship is between overfilling your tank and stalling is. I just don't know what one has to do with the other. 

 

I changed my low pressure sensor on Saturday. It was dead easy when I realized the neck of the Hardline takes a 12mm wrench to keep it in place.

 

I have not driven my car yet but upon initial start, maybe it's placebo, but it seems to idle a bit smoother. 

 

However, im curious to know for sure what the low pressure sensor has to do with stalling. The only way it would make sense to me is if the ecu uses the reading from the sensor to trigger the pump. When it doesn't get the right reading, it doesn't run the pump at the right duty cycle and starves the engine of fuel.

 

But if everyone says it works for them, then I'm glad to throw 25 bucks to test the theory if it means the problem is solved.

.

Edited by Saml01
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  • 3 weeks later...

I say, JUST DO IT!
The majority of the time, it stalls as most have noted: from park, reverse, to drive.... stall.

Mine did it a few times at a light, but 1 time it did it pulling away FROM a light, the car was not shut off and restarted.   I HAD plenty of time to make my turn as I was doing, but the car stalled in the middle of oncoming traffic, and the oncoming car wasn't slowing down after seeing me.   My son was in the car.  Don't put yourself or others in that situation.

To those having trouble removing the part:
NEVER just take a socket to a line like a brake line or fuel line etc.   Almost every fitting has its own hex, square, or flats.   MAKE SURE that you hold onto that so that you are not twisting any lines and creating a larger problem.   The one at the firewall is very difficult to get a wrench on the bottom flats in order to remove the sensor.   It is doable, but you need to cram a lot of hands into a small area.

good luck.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I HAVE FIXED THIS PROBLEM!!

 

My 2013 Ford Fusion SE 1.6 was stalling randomly when driving. At first it wouldn't do it but after driving a little bit it would start to shake and then turn off. I would have to restart them it would be fine for a short time again then stall out. Was annoying because my wife drives the car and she freaks the hell out and it ruins her day. 

 

The fix is easy . You need to replace both fuel pressure sensors. I replaced both of them both purchased from amazon. Took me about 20 minutes to do both but now my car doesn't stall at all and seems to be running a hell of a lot better.  Below are the links to amazon. 

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KHL47P0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FUUY94C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

MAKE SURE WHEN CHANGING THESE OUT THAT YOU HAVE LET YOU CAR SIT OVERNIGHT BECAUSE YOU ARE DEALING WITH FUEL AND PRESSURE. LAST THING YOU WANT IS FOR FUEL TO SQUIRT ALL OVER YOUR FACE AND ENGINE.

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  • 6 months later...

I know that this is an older thread, but this just started happening to our 2013 Ford Fusion Titanium (about 82K miles on it) within the last 2 weeks.  At first I thought it was a fluke, maybe bad gas etc like others thought, and then it just kept happening.  Not every time we drove the car, but enough to be a great concern.  The issue would happen regardless of how recently gas was put into the tank.  In fact, I don't think that any of the stalls were right after fueling up, but none were with the tank near empty either.  (I did use this as a reminder to my wife to stop fueling up when the pump clicks off.  She drives the car the most and was still filling up to even dollar amounts...  Yeah, I didn't know people still did that either.  She didn't know, so I won't blame...)

 

Same symptoms:  After parked for a little bit, or sitting idle, and then when you start to try to go (at low speeds) it starts to chug and the natural instinct is to try to give it more gas, but it doesn't care what your foot is trying to do (LOL) and it stalls a few seconds later.

 

Four times going through an intersection after stopping, and twice leaving a parking lot.  That is too much, so I started digging.


No CEL, but I wanted to see if there were any pending codes.  I have an OBDII bluetooth adapter and an app on my phone called Torque.  It was able to read 2 pending faults: P0087 (Fuel Rail/System Pressure - Too Low) and P00C6 (Fuel Rail Pressure Too Low - Engine Cranking).  Google searching got me to this discussion.  Restarting the Fusion works, but it has to turnover a few more times than normal....  To the point where it is scary to be in the middle of an intersection feeling like it isn't going to start...

 

After restart, it runs fine again for a while.

 

So of course we are heading out of town this week for Thanksgiving, and really want this fixed.  Local parts stores (Advance, AZone, O-Reilly's) don't have any sensors in stock, and I call a dealership and they want $110 for one sensor, and $125 for the other...  So off to Rock Auto.  I know that there are multiple cross reference numbers, but I ordered the CM5225 (BM5Z9F972A) and CM5250 (BU5Z9F972B, CM5226) and paid for overnight shipping ($128.54 for both sensors shipped).

 

Maybe it is just one sensor, but when heading out on the road, I don't want to hit a catastrophic failure somewhere along the way.  Yes, most of the driving will be at highway speeds where this doesn't ever seem to be an issue, but I don't want to get stuck in some emergency situation either.

 

Hopefully this will resolve both P0087 and P00C6.  I don't see much reference to P00C6 though with most google searches taking to sites talking about P0087 and but no mention of P00C6, so not 100% sure there.

 

Just sharing where I am at with a few more part numbers since people tend to reference different things.  I am going to get a few deep well sockets today so that I am ready when the sensors show up tomorrow (1 1/6", 15/16", 26mm, 27mm are all frequently referenced) and report back what fits the best.

 

I was going to replace the fuel pump in the tank first, but came across this forum post which replacing 2 sensors *should* be a lot faster than the whole pump. 

 

Fingers crossed...

 

 

Edited by nickbuol
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So the replacement parts came today and the replacement was pretty easy.   For easy reference for anyone else, this is in a 2013 Ford Fusion Titanium with the 2.0l engine.

Attached are the error codes from the app (I know that the scan was only 6% done, but those were the pending codes  P0087 and P00C6. 

 

FusionErrors.jpg

 

I know that some people disable the fuel pump relay, but I wasn't going anywhere while waiting for the parts to arrive, so the Fusion sat for about 24 hours in a cool garage when outdoor temps were around 40F for a high during the day.  Doing so seemed to relieve all fuel pressure in the lines and there was no fuel spraying out at all.

 

I also attached photos for the old and new sensors.

 

Passenger side of front of the engine.  1-1/16" deep well socket - Despite the old one being quite dirty, this came off fairly easy, mainly due to how easy it was to access.
CM5225 (old part was marked 0261545039) $53 from RockAuto

FusionSensor5225.jpg

 

 

Driver side of engine closer to firewall. 15/16" deep well socket and 12mm wrench to hold fuel line so that the torque of removing sensor doesn't damage the line.  It took a bit of force to get this off.

CM5250 (old part was marked BU5A9F972BA, replaces part CM5226 as well) $50 from RockAuto

FusionSensor5250.jpg

 

I added a little bit of dielectric grease to each of the plugs before reconnecting them.

 

I started the car and checked to make sure there were no fuel leaks just for good measure.

 

I re-scanned the car for pending errors, and they were gone.  I am about to go drive around a bit in town to make sure that it everything works well and then hope that the problem never comes back.

Edited by nickbuol
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