Frustrated with car stalling

[Aniko70]

Thank you. I have ordered the part and will keep you posted.

Edited May 8, 2017 by Aniko70

[brunobus]

I would say that it is one of the 2 fuel pressure sensors over anything else. One thing to note is that if you are under 60k miles, these parts would be covered under the power train warranty.

[akirby]

I would say that it is one of the 2 fuel pressure sensors over anything else. One thing to note is that if you are under 60k miles, these parts would be covered under the power train warranty.

Well howdy stranger!

[brunobus]

Well howdy stranger!

Hey back at you!

[km9376]

Does anyone know if the purge valve and cannister in addition to the fuel rail sensors mentioned above would also be covered under the powertrain warranty?

Our 2013 Fusion Titanium has started the same thing. Wife actually stalled at light just outside gas station tonight and was almost rear ended. Took multiple attempts, but she finally got it started. After reading this thread, asked her about other fill-ups and she said she was noticing the shudder and rough idle after filling it up intermittently for many months. She does not top off the tank after the gas nozzle stops the first time. This was first time the car stalled completely. Car has less than 40,000 miles.

[drolds1]

2013 Warranty Guide:

 

(1) Your vehicle’s Powertrain components are covered for five years or
60,000 miles, whichever occurs first. The extended coverage applies to
the Engine: all internal lubricated parts, cylinder block, cylinder heads,
electrical fuel pump, electronic engine control unit, engine mounts,
flywheel, injection pump, manifold (exhaust and intake), manifold bolts,
oil pan, oil pump, seals and gaskets, thermostat, thermostat housing,
timing chain cover, timing chain (gears or belt),
turbocharger/supercharger unit, valve covers, water pump;

[akirby]

Did we ever decide whether it was covered under the 8/80K emissions warranty?

[drolds1]

Did we ever decide whether it was covered under the 8/80K emissions warranty?

They're not covered, Allen. The 8/80 emissions warranty covers 3 specific parts:

 

EMISSIONS DEFECT WARRANTY COVERAGE

 

During the warranty coverage period, Ford Motor Company warrants

that:

• your vehicle or engine is designed, built, and equipped to meet - at

the time it is sold - the emissions regulations of the U.S.

Environmental Protection Agency (EPA).

• your vehicle or engine is free from emission-related defects in

factory-supplied materials or workmanship, which are defects that

could prevent the vehicle or engine from conforming with applicable

EPA regulations.

• you will not be charged for diagnosis, repair, replacement, or

adjustment of parts containing an emissions-related defect. Applicable

parts are listed under What is Covered? on pages 20-21.

The warranty coverage period for:

• Passenger cars, light duty trucks (applies to vehicles up to 8,500

pounds GVWR)

— 8 years or 80,000 miles (whichever occurs first) for catalytic

converters, electronic emissions control unit, and onboard

emissions diagnostic devices.

— 3 years or 36,000 miles (whichever occurs first) for all other

covered parts.

The TCM used to be included also but apparently, that's no longer the case.

[Mark Bartelson]

I am sorry that I did not read all of the post but this looks like the area of the problem that I am having.

 

When I let off of the gas pedal and cost for about 1/4 mile I will here a vibrating type of noise (minus the vibration, just that type of noise) and the car will just shut off. I can turn the key off and reset it and it will start right up again. I explained this to my dealer and nothing was a definite answer and I did not want to have to pay for diagnostic time so it was left that I drive the car until it stops completely. 

 

I think it is time for another visit to the dealership.

[CSM]

I too have this same stalling problem which is becoming more and more severe - 2013 Titanium AWD 63,000 KM

 

Can anyone tell me what the difference is between these two sensors - BM5Z9F972A & BU5Z9F972B?  Which one is which and where are they located?

 

I read here that some have replaced one or the other.  I am considering just replacing both (if they are actually unique parts).

 

Thanks in advance!

Edited October 20, 2017 by CSM

[eGuru]

8 hours ago, CSM said:

I too have this same stalling problem which is becoming more and more severe - 2013 Titanium AWD 63,000 KM

 

Can anyone tell me what the difference is between these two sensors - BM5Z9F972A & BU5Z9F972B?  Which one is which and where are they located?

 

I read here that some have replaced one or the other.  I am considering just replacing both (if they are actually unique parts).

 

Thanks in advance!

Both parts are fuel pressure sensors.

You only need one for your vehicle. Either one will work. I would choose the BU5Z9F972B.

 

Part is located on the fuel rail. Make sure engine is totally cold and only use hand tools (to avoid a spark).

 

Have you used any diagnostic OBD2 scanner to check for fault codes before deciding to do this replacement?

 

 

[brunobus]

I replaced the one at the fuel rail myself, the dealership replaced the other.  There are definitely 2 of them.  Read my previous posts for details. 

[CSM]

1 hour ago, eGuru said:

Both parts are fuel pressure sensors.

You only need one for your vehicle. Either one will work. I would choose the BU5Z9F972B.

 

Part is located on the fuel rail. Make sure engine is totally cold and only use hand tools (to avoid a spark).

 

Have you used any diagnostic OBD2 scanner to check for fault codes before deciding to do this replacement?

 

 

 

Thanks for your response.  After the latest stall the engine did finally throw a CEL.  Having the code checked over the weekend but hoping the sensor(s) are the culprit.

 

I was under the impression that there are two separate sensors which could be to blame based on posts here.  One located in the fuel rail and the other (possibly?) located near fuel pump - low & high pressure sensors?  Can anyone confirm - and which is which?

[CSM]

26 minutes ago, brunobus said:

I replaced the one at the fuel rail myself, the dealership replaced the other.  There are definitely 2 of them.  Read my previous posts for details. 

 

Thanks for your help.  I did read your previous post but must have missed the dealer replacing the other sensor.  

 

Do you recall which one the dealer replaced (part #/location) vs. the one you tackled at the fuel rail?

Edited October 20, 2017 by CSM

[Kipperdoodles]

On 1/20/2016 at 3:11 PM, Kipperdoodles said:

I have the same car with this same issue but it doesn't sound like as terrible as everyone else. I think since I've owned the car for about 2 years it has done the stalling about 7-8 times. Most recently it happened a couple of weeks ago. In the past it was either in the morning leaving for work it would stall leaving my drive way, or it happened after I topped my gas off. I brought this up to my dealership when I first got the car and they said if it happens again let them know. Well it happens but not frequently. I'm afraid that it's going to get worse now reading all of this and my warranty is up.

 

Also does anyone else have issues with gas pumps keeping the gas fill going until full. That happens once in a while and it's a nuisance to be able fill the tank since it takes 10x longer.

For those that are following the thread. The fuel pressure sensor replacement seemed to drastically improve the issue with my car stalling from a cold start such as in the morning before going to work, however it never resolved the issue with the car stalling. I feel like there is still an issue with a stutter at low RPM. Sometimes if I accelerate it jerks forward. I've read that this could be issues with the fuel delivery to the car itself? I took my car to the dealership to get an oil change recently and I brought all this up. They did some tests. They did find that my battery was low and needed to be replaced however that had nothing to do with or help fix the issues I've been having with the car stalling. I went over to the gas station immediately and filled up with gas. It was very close to stalling, it never did but I could tell there was an engine issue. Normally it should hover just below 1k rpm but it would spike downward almost to 0 and then recover at a stutter. You could feel the car shake a bit as this is happening. I got it on video and i called the dealership back but they said that they couldn't do much until they could see it happen. That doesn't make any sense to me, but you know that's just them not wanting to deal with it for the rest of the day.  It has been less frequent but that might just because I'm always aware of the potential after a fuel up that it could die and I purposely try to not stop until the car has ran for at least a few minutes. The car does seem to run better in sport mode. I do like my car a lot, but I feel like the engine isn't living up to its potential because of the issues I'm having. 

[brunobus]

I do still also still get the stutter every once in a while and it is always shortly after having filled my tank.  My best guess on this is that I did always top off my tank in the past before reading some comment on this thread about not doing that.  I probably have some raw fuel stuck in the vapor canister (this is for what is called on board vapor recovery and the reason why most of the country is now disabling their Stage 2 vapor recovery systems at their fueling sites).  I suspect that the computer only tries to purge the vapors from the canister shortly after you fill up.  Those vapors are being directed into the engine so they can be burned through the combustion process.  Having some raw fuel mixed in with the vapors may very well be "flooding" the engine which is then creating the stumble that we are seeing.  There may also be other times when the computer decides to purge the canister, again possibly creating a stumble at idle.  Personally, I had every intention of replacing my vapor canister. I ordered one in and was ready to replace it until I started reading through the workshop manuals.  My car is AWD, so I have the entire axle assembly in the rear that sits directly over (under actually) the vapor canister.  In order to replace the canister on my car, I would need to basically remove the entire rear sub-frame.  Not something I wanted to tackle to try and prevent an occasional engine stumble.  However, if your car is FWD only, it is a really simple task of disconnecting the lines, wiring, unbolting it from the car and sticking the new one in.  Probably a 2 hour job for a first timer, 30 minutes for a trained technician.  Again, I have not really studied the sequence of operation of the vapor canister (I know it is somewhere in the shop manual), but so this is all just a supposition based on the timing of the stumbles and other information that I have gathered.

[brunobus]

5 hours ago, CSM said:

 

Thanks for your help.  I did read your previous post but must have missed the dealer replacing the other sensor.  

 

Do you recall which one the dealer replaced (part #/location) vs. the one you tackled at the fuel rail?

The dealer replaced the :BU5Z-9F972-B  (low pressure) and I replaced the other one (high pressure).  I thought I had posted the part number in one of my previous posts, but cannot find it. Honestly, I am not sure exactly where the low pressure sensors sits.  I was planning on replacing that one myself, but then the dealership covered it under warranty when they found the issue with it during my transmission replacement.

[Kipperdoodles]

Does anyone have info on how to replace the canister purge valve. 

 

http://www.autozone.com/emission-control-and-exhaust/canister-purge-valve/duralast-canister-purge-valve/558892_0_12209

 

This is the right part from what I'm understanding. My car is FWD. Should the canister be replaced as well? My fuel pressure sensor was replaced a couple of years ago but only improved the issue but never fixed it. Do you think this would fix the hard idling issues too?

[brunobus]

1 hour ago, Kipperdoodles said:

Does anyone have info on how to replace the canister purge valve. 

 

http://www.autozone.com/emission-control-and-exhaust/canister-purge-valve/duralast-canister-purge-valve/558892_0_12209

 

This is the right part from what I'm understanding. My car is FWD. Should the canister be replaced as well? My fuel pressure sensor was replaced a couple of years ago but only improved the issue but never fixed it. Do you think this would fix the hard idling issues too?

When I purchased the vapor canister, I got it from Tasca Ford and it was only like $75 including shipping and it includes the purge valve.  If your car actually stalls and both sensors have not been replaced, then I would start with the other sensor before you move on to the canister.

[jstutz101]

16 hours ago, Kipperdoodles said:

Does anyone have info on how to replace the canister purge valve. 

 

http://www.autozone.com/emission-control-and-exhaust/canister-purge-valve/duralast-canister-purge-valve/558892_0_12209

 

This is the right part from what I'm understanding. My car is FWD. Should the canister be replaced as well? My fuel pressure sensor was replaced a couple of years ago but only improved the issue but never fixed it. Do you think this would fix the hard idling issues too?

This is the video I referred to when replacing the purge valve on my 2.0 Fusion..

 

 

[Kipperdoodles]

I found this technical bullieten from years ago. It sure sounds a lot like the issues we've been seeing. Is it not?

 

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2013/SB-10054975-5633.pdf

[Kipperdoodles]

Also I found my warranty work information from 2/23/2016

 

Customer states the check engine light is coming on and off last time it was in we could not duplicate the check and advise. Insatlled BU5Z 9F972 A :Sensor - fuel injector precel not on. Has p0087 in memory for low pressure fuel sensor. Went to pc/ed to ppt hp. Performed tes and found low pressure fuel sensor reading biased. Flp dsd pid is 60psi and flp is reading 110psi. Needs new flp sensor. Replaced sensor. Cleared codes. Drove and verify snesor reading properly and n codes return. Verify repair. 

[FusionFud]

Here are a few pictures from my 2014 Ford Fusion Titanium.  I replaced my Low pressure Fuel Sensor today 11/30.  I followed the instructions in this thread.  The only difference is I used a 15/16 Socket to remove the sensor.  Breaking the sensor loose takes some torque to "be careful.

[jstutz101]

6 hours ago, FusionFud said:

Here are a few pictures from my 2014 Ford Fusion Titanium.  I replaced my Low pressure Fuel Sensor today 11/30.  I followed the instructions in this thread.  The only difference is I used a 15/16 Socket to remove the sensor.  Breaking the sensor loose takes some torque to "be careful.

Thanks for the pictures.  Do you happen to have the part number for the sensor you replaced?  Thanks!!

[FusionFud]

Here is the part number for the Sensor Items Ordered:
1.	BU5Z9F972B
	SENSOR - FUEL INJECTOR PRESSUR		Price: $34.95