A/C blowing hot air

[SCFIREFIGHTER]

My 2012 has started the same issue. With only 42,000 miles on it. In South Carolina in July this is a safety hazard!!!! Took it to a dealer and they said they had never heard of the issue. I took it to another dealer and the estimate is $1028 to replace the sensor, blend door motor and the module. They said they would only guarantee it if all three were replaced. I have 6 Ford vehicles right now and am getting really ticked off because this is evidently a known issue with Ford Fusion and the company doesn't seem to care. I tried the disconnect battery thing twice. The cold air lasted less then 15 minutes then back to heat. I tried the headlight trick and that didn't help. I will try the resistor fix and see if that does any good.

[eGuru]

My 2012 has started the same issue. With only 42,000 miles on it. In South Carolina in July this is a safety hazard!!!! Took it to a dealer and they said they had never heard of the issue. I took it to another dealer and the estimate is $1028 to replace the sensor, blend door motor and the module. They said they would only guarantee it if all three were replaced. I have 6 Ford vehicles right now and am getting really ticked off because this is evidently a known issue with Ford Fusion and the company doesn't seem to care. I tried the disconnect battery thing twice. The cold air lasted less then 15 minutes then back to heat. I tried the headlight trick and that didn't help. I will try the resistor fix and see if that does any good.

 

This thread has many contributors describing varying symptoms so it is difficult to know what "the same issue" is in your case.

Can you provide some details?

Do you have an OBD2 scan tool and ForScan so that you can read the evap temp sensor and the state of the ac compressor clutch?

I would question the "shot gun" repair approach being suggested by your dealership.

[ywdmn]

Can someone tell be exactly where the blend door motor (AE5Z 19E616A), is located under what area of the dash on a basic 2011 Fusion SE manual ac. Is it behind the glove box, or behind the panel door on the right side of the dash, or to the the right of the gas pedal?

[eGuru]

Can someone tell be exactly where the blend door motor (AE5Z 19E616A), is located under what area of the dash on a basic 2011 Fusion SE manual ac. Is it behind the glove box, or behind the panel door on the right side of the dash, or to the the right of the gas pedal?

 

It is to the right of the gas pedal

[GRakka]

​On my 2011 Fusion the AC would work and then start blowing hot air. Turning the car off and on again will get the a/c to work again but no guarantee on how long it would work. It seemed that if I turned on the light and then turned on the AC (and keeping the lights on), the AC would work the whole time. With help from this forum, the issue was narrowed down to 1. Blend Door Actuator 2. EVAP Temp Sensor 3. HVAC Control Module. Since the blend door was the easiest to get to, I replaced it first but it did not resolve the issue. I was able to get OHP Ford ELMconfig USB device from Amazon for about $30 and using Forscan software on a laptop I was able to rule out the evap sensor. I did not want to spend over $200 for a HVAC control module and was able to buy used on ebay for $30. Replaced it and my a/c has worked perfect since. Hope this helps.

 

BTW - if you are going to replace the HVAC module, look up youtube videos on replacing the radio on your Fusion. The video provides instructions on how to remove the bezel.

[eGuru]

GRakka has taken the correct approach to resolve his issue - analysis of the cause - not hit or miss random part replacement.

The purchase of an OBD interface and using free software like Forscan is a very cost effective way to analyze current and future issues. It also helps you to learn about your vehicle's operation and architecture.

Of course, not all issues can be self diagnosed. Sometimes we need the help of a professional to point us in the right direction. Even so, having Forscan available can often help us to confirm the analysis and provide confidence that it is correct and we are not being taken advantage of as "dumb consumers"

[swip51]

A/C blowing hot air is disconnecting the battery still working? I have a similar issue with my 2008 SE Fusion.

on the 06-09's check this little sucker:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000IYIWDU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

Check and see if the compressor is still running when you turn on the A/C if it continues blowing hot air I just about guarantee you it's this. There are some videos, but basically you have to remove the center console, loosen the main two drivers side dash bolts and undo everything else. Pull the passengers side of the dash out a bit and set it on a 5 gal bucket or something then reach back between the dash and windshield just right of the center, pull this out and replace it. The part corrodes and causes the A/C to think that it's ultra cold in the car and no blow the cold air.

[eGuru]

on the 06-09's check this little sucker:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000IYIWDU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

Check and see if the compressor is still running when you turn on the A/C if it continues blowing hot air I just about guarantee you it's this. There are some videos, but basically you have to remove the center console, loosen the main two drivers side dash bolts and undo everything else. Pull the passengers side of the dash out a bit and set it on a 5 gal bucket or something then reach back between the dash and windshield just right of the center, pull this out and replace it. The part corrodes and causes the A/C to think that it's ultra cold in the car and no blow the cold air.

 

No way should this be done until you read the value being reported by the evap temp sensor using a scan tool. If it is defective it will report -50.

[swip51]

What he said, a shop read mine and quoted me $400

[drolds1]

on the 06-09's check this little sucker:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000IYIWDU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

Check and see if the compressor is still running when you turn on the A/C if it continues blowing hot air I just about guarantee you it's this. There are some videos, but basically you have to remove the center console, loosen the main two drivers side dash bolts and undo everything else. Pull the passengers side of the dash out a bit and set it on a 5 gal bucket or something then reach back between the dash and windshield just right of the center, pull this out and replace it. The part corrodes and causes the A/C to think that it's ultra cold in the car and no blow the cold air.

If you're talking about the evaporator temp sensor, that's not it. That's an ambient temp sensor.

 

Evap temp sensor.

[sweetvabreeze]

I too am having AC blowing hot on my 2012 Fusion with 69,000 miles. I took it to the dealer because it's still under service contract. First time I took it in, they couldn't get it to duplicate the issue. Told to come get the car and the next time it blew hot, to bring it by and don't cut the car off. I did exactly that but the car would go from hot to cold and back again. They replaced the blender door and sent me on my way. Two days later it happened again so I took it back over there and they said they had to reset something in the software. Picked it up and a week later we are back to the same issue. Called them again and they want me to bring it back when it is blowing hot again. With it being so sporadic, I can't just stop what I'm doing to run it back to the dealership each time. Now I'm waiting on the service guy to talk to the service manager to see what will be done with it. I've had Ford's most of my life but this one is frustrating me so much that I'm rethinking ever getting another one. Especially when I see so many people posting about the same issue. Obviously there is a reason this is happening to some many folks. Also, they won't just replace a part because they think it's what is wrong, they have to have a computer tell them that is what is wrong. So in the mean time, I get cold air only when it wants to work. FRUSTRATING!

[akirby]

Maybe you should try a different dealer who might be better at diagnosing the problem and fixing it right the first time.

[drolds1]

Also, they won't just replace a part because they think it's what is wrong, they have to have a computer tell them that is what is wrong. So in the mean time, I get cold air only when it wants to work. FRUSTRATING!

If their computer was telling them what was wrong, it would have been fixed. Does your dealer have a tech who's certified in HVAC?

 

Maybe you should try a different dealer who might be better at diagnosing the problem and fixing it right the first time.

This.

[JCHPNC60]

I searched google, because this did not happen until I replaced my battery.  This is the solution I found and will check it in the morning.

 

https://www.justanswer.com/gm/29dwt-replacing-the-battery-ac-blows-hot-air-ideas.html

[eGuru]

1 hour ago, JCHPNC60 said:

I searched google, because this did not happen until I replaced my battery.  This is the solution I found and will check it in the morning.

 

https://www.justanswer.com/gm/29dwt-replacing-the-battery-ac-blows-hot-air-ideas.html

 

Okay. It's not clear what you mean by "this happened" but this "justanswer" is only partially correct.

 

You don't need to pull any fuses. Disconnect one of the battery cables for a few minutes and then reconnect and start the vehicle.

Don't touch the  HVAC controls.

The car will re-calibrate the HVAC damper servos in less than a minute.

 

This may resolve your issue.

 

If not, you need to be more specific about your symptoms (fault codes etc) before anyone here can offer meaningful advice.

[Artem]

Quick question (it might be offtopic)

On 8/4/2017 at 1:03 AM, GRakka said:

On my 2011 Fusion the AC would work and then start blowing hot air. Turning the car off and on again will get the a/c to work again but no guarantee on how long it would work. It seemed that if I turned on the light and then turned on the AC (and keeping the lights on), the AC would work the whole time. With help from this forum, the issue was narrowed down to 1. Blend Door Actuator 2. EVAP Temp Sensor 3. HVAC Control Module. Since the blend door was the easiest to get to, I replaced it first but it did not resolve the issue. I was able to get OHP Ford ELMconfig USB device from Amazon for about $30 and using Forscan software on a laptop I was able to rule out the evap sensor. I did not want to spend over $200 for a HVAC control module and was able to buy used on ebay for $30. Replaced it and my a/c has worked perfect since. Hope this helps.

 

BTW - if you are going to replace the HVAC module, look up youtube videos on replacing the radio on your Fusion. The video provides instructions on how to remove the bezel.

 

does anyone knows if "BAFX Products Bluetooth Diagnostic OBDII Reader" can give me the same result as "OHP Ford ELMconfig USB device" + Forscan?

[Oracle_Ed]

The ad doesn't say that it supports both MSCAN and HSCAN.

[GRakka]

I don’t know if BAFX would work but if interested this is the one I used. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01F0GVBWY/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_Xz.1AbYA537EF

[Oracle_Ed]

On ‎4‎/‎18‎/‎2018 at 9:56 PM, GRakka said:

I don’t know if BAFX would work but if interested this is the one I used. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01F0GVBWY/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_Xz.1AbYA537EF

Good choice and reasonably priced for a unit with a switch.

[Kyler]

I am having a similar issue on my 2011 Fusion. I bought it used with 110k miles and the AC has never blown exceptionally cold. It was to the point where it was bearable but I always considered getting it checked out to see if there was a problem. Recently at 117k miles the AC has started blowing hot air only. Since it doesn't switch back and forth from cold to hot and the AC has always been a little warm, does this mean it could just need a recharge? Please help, thanks!

[eGuru]

Either get a scan tool or get a professional diagnosis. Definitely do not just add refrigerant at this point.

[sirtanon]

I recently had to address the A/C in my 2010 Fusion only blowing "cool" unless I was cruising on the highway.  It blew "barely cooler than lukewarm" if I was sitting in traffic or at a light.

 

In my case, I went and bought one of those recharge kits at the store.. you know, one of the ones that has the can, with a trigger connection on top, a hose with a gauge inline, and a fitting at the end.  The Aerocool one, which I bought at WalMart for $18.88, was good because it has a brass fitting at the end, not a plastic one.

 

It worked wonders for me, and now my A/C blows super cold.  I'm not saying it's what everyone should do, but it's what I did.  A couple caveats, if you're thinking of going this route:

1-  Only do it if you're "savvy" - If you're unsure how to do it, or even if you should, then don't.  Let the pro's do it.   If you decide to go this route, make SURE you follow the steps right, read ALL the instructions, and be mindful of ambient temps, etc.. 

2 - Start your car, put the A/C on "MAX COOL" and let it run for about a minute.  If there's ANYTHING in the system, then hopefully at least the A/C will try to engage.  Remove the trigger nozzle, and hook up the fitting end to the LOW SIDE connection of your A/C system.  The High Side and Low Side fittings are different sizes, so this part should be pretty easy to figure out.  Don't force anything!

3 - With the fitting connected, check the gauge.  There are 4 'zones' on it... green (low), blue (okay), yellow (don't push it), and red (Danger! / Overpressure).  If the needle on the gauge is in the green (WITH the engine running and A/C on), then you should be able to add refrigerant.  If it's in the blue or higher, then your issue is most likely more mechanical then low refrigerant.

4 - There will also be pressure values on the gauge, in PSI.  The can I bought had pressure values listed in a chart, based on ambient temp.. which seemed to match the gauge values.  My gauge showed in the green with about 15-20PSI.. which is LOW.  Assuming yours is low/out of R-134a, then at this point, you'll want to remove the fitting, remove the plastic 'guard' that was on it can (you probably did this already), and then connect the trigger nozzle to the can.. screw it down all the way until it opens the can.  Shake the can up, connect the fitting to the low side again, and squeeze the trigger while you continue to agitate and rotate the can.  I have found the best way to do this is give it short squeeze bursts of about 2-3 seconds, then release and see how the gauge reflects this addition.  Keep doing this until the needle is back up in the "blue".  I actually put mine to the top of the blue, which was still within the acceptable pressure range for my ambient temps, which were about 105F.

 

The key here is, if you're going to do this, be very careful not to overcharge the system.  Also, since your system seems like it's completely out, if you do end up adding R134a, I'd say get it up some, maybe top of the green zone, then go back in your car to see how the A/C is reacting to it.

 

Just remember, if you're not sure, or you think there's something wrong, then stop and take it to a pro.

[Adam444]

2010 Fusion, 2.5L, about 54,000 miles.

 

Hop it in the other day and the A/C is working fine.  Drive about 12 miles, stop for about 20 minutes, hop back in and the A/C is blowing HOT and outside temps are in the low 90's.  What the heck, but it's a short drive to work so I'll deal with it and figure it out later.  Eventually pop the hood and the compressor clutch is engaged, no weird noises.  Do a bit of reading here and elsewhere could be several things but one person suggested turning down the temperature knob on click at a time.  So I try that, sure enough at the lower end of the scale things start getting cooler.  Get to the bottom the cold lasts for maybe a minute.  Try again, same thing.  

 

Do a bit more reading and someone suggests disconnecting the battery.  Try that this morning, turn the ignition to "on" and wait.  Sure enough I hear some mechanical noises, so maybe the left part is communicating with the right part and everything will be ok.  Fire her up and ice cold air!  Wahoo!  That excitement was short lived, about a minute later I'm back to HOT, HOT air that's well above ambient.

 

Off to work again, happy that I'm using extra, extra dry deodorant.  I'm still thinking about all of this, having read that it could be the blend door, some computerized component that controls the blend door, or maybe some sensor somewhere.  Hmmm, about the only thing that worked, albeit for a minute, is turning down the temperature knob one click at a time.  The a light bulb goes off (yes, about a 1/2 watt bulb), what happens if I don't turn the temperature knob down all the way?  So I stop, about 2 clicks short, of the coldest setting.  Sure enough the darn A/C keeps working for an hour!  Maybe not as cold as it could be but a darn sight better than 95 degrees.

 

I can't explain it but it works.  The question is why?  Any thoughts?

[eGuru]

Likely that the position feedback pot in the blend door actuator is defective.

Replacing the BDA is fairly easy. It's been covered in these forums frequently.

[86SVOwner]

I have the same issue where having the headlights on allows the air to continue to run cold. Must be an electrical issue...voltage, resistor?!? Any ideas?