B18c5si Posted August 21, 2015 Share Posted August 21, 2015 Hey guys I recently installed a HID system and last night all of a sudden my headlights turned off. Found a blown fuses for both sides. Replaced them and they blew immediately. I need help with a wiring diagram or where I should potentially look?? What could cause this? A short to ground?? I recently installed a stereo system and tapped into the stereo harness and battery for the amps. Prior to this I had installed OPT7 HID's for the headlights and fog lights. No issues with the headlights or fog lights for almost two months. I recently installed the stereo system and had it installed for about a week or so soldering the speaker connections behind the dash and ensuring each wire was wrapped tightly individually with electrical tape and then bundled together very carefully. Only thing I can think of is somehow damaged a wire while trying to feed the power wire for the amp through the firewall grommet behind and to the right of the PCM.... But I NEED a wiring diagram to trace the circuit otherwise I'm dead in the water!!!! PLEASE help as I have a graveyard shift job I start Monday that's 35 miles away! I have a 2012 fusion SE with the 2.5 56,000 miles. OPT7 HIDs LED Turn signals with resistors aftermarket speakers, amp, line out converter, subwoofer, sub amp. Edited by B18c5si, Today, 02:53 AM. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlong Posted August 22, 2015 Share Posted August 22, 2015 (edited) My thread about "headlights always on" has the headlight wire diagram for a 2010. It should be almost identical. Maybe try undoing everything you did and start by adding one piece at a time. Also if you didn't use a relay harness for your headlights you probably should. I put in 35w HID's and while some say you don't need a relay harness, I think you really do. It made a pretty big difference in mine because I installed the HID's without a relay harness at first and had issues with the lights dimming and flickering. After the harness and after about 2 years, not one problem since. I also have 2 AMPs but I didn't tap into anything but the rear deck speakers for signal and the amps turn on by sensing a signal from the speakers. The amp too has been installed for a couple years with no issues. Other than that all I can say is good luck! Edited August 22, 2015 by jlong 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thefoeyouknow Posted August 23, 2015 Share Posted August 23, 2015 A relay harness is the wrong fix. The relays can pass the PWM signal right through. You need can-bus adapters. If you're blowing fuses, look at the ballasts. Be sure you're using can-bus adapters and that you're using 35w ballasts, not 50 or 55. Odds are, without anything to scrub the power, your SJB has fried your ballasts. I'd say put your halogens back in for now. Get some E55 projectors and D2S bulbs, preferably Phillips 85122, and use 35w D2S compatible ballasts. This is the only right way to do HIDs. See my thread. Rebased HID bulbs are imprecisely aligned for both X and Y axis, as well as usually too little depth. A D2S is an actual HID bulb (as well as a few others like D1S, D3S, etc) Your projector bowls are shaped to focus a cylinder shaped light source, not a sickle shaped one such as HID. It results in glare, hotspots and an oddly narrow beam with a fuzzy cutoff Fusion uses a pulse-width modulated power source for the low-beams so that they can be dimmed for DRL. It doesn't matter if DRL is enabled or not. Your ballasts are getting morse code instead of clean even power. They don't hold up to this very long. Can-bus adapters contain an capacitor to clean this up, as well as a load resistor to increase the current draw and avoid lamp-out warnings or circuit protect failures. You should use 35 watt ballasts, 55 watt ballasts will make your lights brighter, but that's a double edged sword, with a proper beam pattern, above the cutoff will be pitch black. With 55 watt ballasts, the contrast will be high enough that it will make that area over the cutoff seem even darker, diminishing your night vision. Sort of like throwing the bedroom light on after you've been asleep for a few hours. If you decide to use 55's anyway, use a capacitor only rather than can-bus adapters. The extra load will blow fuses or cause circuit protect errors. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlong Posted August 23, 2015 Share Posted August 23, 2015 I've been fine for a couple years with 35w d2s OEM bulbs using cheap digital ballasts with a diy relay harness. My 2010 sport doesn't have a BOW indicator. http://www.fordfusionclub.com/208-exterior-lighting/403306-my-2010-fusion-hid-retrofit-thread.html 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thefoeyouknow Posted August 23, 2015 Share Posted August 23, 2015 Lamp out warnings usually come up in the message center. Not all cars will give warnings, but until it does, there's no way of knowing if the SJB is configured to flag it. Usually, it's better to err on the side of caution. Diy relay setups tend to use better relays with resistors internally installed across the low current terminals, this prevents the relay (usually) from buzzing and passing the pwm signal on to the ballast by the relay duplicating it. Good on you for doing good your HIDs the right way. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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