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How to get amp wire through firewall to battery?


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Hello everyone!!! I am looking into possibly adding an amplifier to my car for rear deck speakers and an subs. I know to run the amp wire through the door sill on the driver side of the car, but how do I get the wire through the firewall? I have seen on other posts about drilling a hole through a grommet (I have a v6 Fusion). Should I do that or is it possible to just follow some current wires and route the amp wire with them. I am looking at using a 4 gauge wire. Also, would it be easiest to remove the battery to maybe make it easier to find where the wires go through the firewall? Thank you :D

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Hello everyone!!! I am looking into possibly adding an amplifier to my car for rear deck speakers and an subs. I know to run the amp wire through the door sill on the driver side of the car, but how do I get the wire through the firewall? I have seen on other posts about drilling a hole through a grommet (I have a v6 Fusion). Should I do that or is it possible to just follow some current wires and route the amp wire with them. I am looking at using a 4 gauge wire. Also, would it be easiest to remove the battery to maybe make it easier to find where the wires go through the firewall? Thank you :D

 

Under the steering wheel, by your foot, you'll find on the fire wall a hole with a whtie plasric cap in it.....

Just drill into this cap, don't need to remove battery for that.

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Under the steering wheel, by your foot, you'll find on the fire wall a hole with a whtie plasric cap in it.....

Just drill into this cap, don't need to remove battery for that.

 

Thanks QuoVadis69! However, in the event that I want to maybe avoid drilling into that hole do you think it would be possible to run the amp wire with the existing wires through the firewall?

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Thanks QuoVadis69! However, in the event that I want to maybe avoid drilling into that hole do you think it would be possible to run the amp wire with the existing wires through the firewall?

 

 

Maybe i wasn't clear enough, The white plastic cap taht im talking about is designed for this.... When i put my remote start, i pass the wire threw that cap and same thing for my 12 volts wire to the trunk.... it's fairly easy to drill and your wires will arrive just by the battery.

 

Good Luck!!!

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Maybe i wasn't clear enough, The white plastic cap taht im talking about is designed for this.... When i put my remote start, i pass the wire threw that cap and same thing for my 12 volts wire to the trunk.... it's fairly easy to drill and your wires will arrive just by the battery.

 

Good Luck!!!

 

Is where it is circled in red where you mean http://www.fordfusionforum.com/index.php?a...=si&img=163 ?

 

Also, would something like this be any good http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Product/Ite...FB4&tp=1283 ?

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 months later...
  • 7 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...
The 2009 model does not seem to have the white plastic cap in the same location. Looks like they moved it?

 

Nah dude its there i just found mine. YOu have to pull out the oval and the plastic is right behind it. If you look at the posted pic, look in that area and remove the precut oval. Behind that is the plastic cap. =)

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Nah dude its there i just found mine. YOu have to pull out the oval and the plastic is right behind it. If you look at the posted pic, look in that area and remove the precut oval. Behind that is the plastic cap. =)

 

and yes i was very redundant there. installing sub in rain right now haha

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i cant find the white plastic cap???

I personally plugged into the "spare" (19 I think) fuse slot for my trailer wiring. You have to leave the cover off (put it in the glove box) and took a 3/8" eyelet and cut 2/3 of th loop off so that all that was left was a "flat blade" on one side that is th size of a fuse blade and pushed that into the "power" side. I then atatched an inline fuse then crimped it to my 14g wire to the trunk. It was easy to do and didn't involve any drilling or digging to fish out a wire in the engine compartment. I had tried that first and got "frustrated" and went this route. Pretty happy with how it worked out.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I have the 2010 Ford Fusion SE and in the process of installing an amatuer radio. I have been trying to figure out how to pass a 10 gauge wire pair from the cabin to the battery. I see a semi-punched oval above the wiring grommet, so if the 2010 is like the 2009 according to prior replies I should be able to remove the oval and then there is a cap to push or drill through and that should be a safe location. Can anyone confirm this for the 2010 model before I start pulling things off and any other helpful hints?

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  • 1 month later...
Under the steering wheel, by your foot, you'll find on the fire wall a hole with a whtie plasric cap in it.....

Just drill into this cap, don't need to remove battery for that.

I have a 2006 Fusion & I am looking to add an amp and a sub. I found the white plastic cap you referenced. So I drill a hole through the cap and run the wire through that - do I require a rubber grommet to protect it? where within the engine compartment does this come out? Do I need to remove the battery to "find" the wire?

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  • 3 weeks later...
I have a 2006 Fusion & I am looking to add an amp and a sub. I found the white plastic cap you referenced. So I drill a hole through the cap and run the wire through that - do I require a rubber grommet to protect it? where within the engine compartment does this come out? Do I need to remove the battery to "find" the wire?

 

I popped the plastic cap out (not easy as you have to push on 4 clips simultaneously) and drilled a 3/4" hole through the center (easier out of the car) and run the wire through with a grommet. I should put some RTV or other sealant around it as well to make sure water doesn't get in, but haven't gotten to that part yet. Its pretty tight with the grommet, but not completely water-tight. I have not had any issues yet as its pretty high up on the firewall.

 

A word of warning. I did this myself and when I popped out being under the dashboard it dropped down onto the panel underneath the engine. After much swearing and fishing with a coat hanger I was able to retrieve it, drill the hole and pop back in. In hindsight I should have had someone reach down it it behind the battery and hold/catch it.

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  • 1 month later...

I have the 2010 Ford Fusion SE and in the process of installing an amatuer radio. I have been trying to figure out how to pass a 10 gauge wire pair from the cabin to the battery. I see a semi-punched oval above the wiring grommet, so if the 2010 is like the 2009 according to prior replies I should be able to remove the oval and then there is a cap to push or drill through and that should be a safe location. Can anyone confirm this for the 2010 model before I start pulling things off and any other helpful hints?

 

We are looking into buying a 2010 Ford Fusion. We will be faced with installing an amateur radio, the YAESU - FT-8800R Any advice/comments/pictures on the install?

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We are looking into buying a 2010 Ford Fusion. We will be faced with installing an amateur radio, the YAESU - FT-8800R Any advice/comments/pictures on the install?

I put in an ICOM IC-208H. Added 45amp PowerPole connectors onto the provided unit wiring. Due to fuse size I had to backfeed the wire from the engine compartment into the vehicle through the 3/4 inch hole I drilled through the white cap. Used a pre-made short cable (ring terminal to powerpoles) from battery to the unit wire. I console mounted it (still plenty of leg room) on the driver side with speaker side out (don't need an external spkr that way). Used a Larsen 2/70 trunk mount on driver side of trunk lid and fed cable behind felt, down side of back seat and along door sill passing under driver seat to console.

 

I could have remoted the control head to the front of the coin box, but decided against it. As your Yaesu has the mic connected to the control head that probaby wouldn't be practical. If you send an email to cheltonpei@yahoo.com I'll try to send some photos.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I realize this is an older thread but I am having a tough time with wiring my amp up. First off, I am not new to wiring and even getting through the firewall, but this is a different animal. I looked through everything I can find, which is rather limited, and I think I have found where I am supposed to go through.

 

First off, I have a 2010 Fusion SEL. After looking at the pictures linked above I could not find that particular grommet. i am attaching a picture of what looks like it is where the clutch would normally come through. It seems like it is a lot higher up than the one in the linked picture. The issue I have is you cannot really see under the hood where this comes out and you never want to drill if you are not positive you are in the right place. I almost just pulled the trigger on it the other day but I decided I would wait and post here to see if I got any responses.

 

I already have the inline converter in the trunk and the ground wire run. Any help would be much appreciated.

 

Thanks.

 

I popped the plastic cap out (not easy as you have to push on 4 clips simultaneously) and drilled a 3/4" hole through the center (easier out of the car) and run the wire through with a grommet. I should put some RTV or other sealant around it as well to make sure water doesn't get in, but haven't gotten to that part yet. Its pretty tight with the grommet, but not completely water-tight. I have not had any issues yet as its pretty high up on the firewall.

 

A word of warning. I did this myself and when I popped out being under the dashboard it dropped down onto the panel underneath the engine. After much swearing and fishing with a coat hanger I was able to retrieve it, drill the hole and pop back in. In hindsight I should have had someone reach down it it behind the battery and hold/catch it.

post-5827-126295898897_thumb.jpg

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I realize this is an older thread but I am having a tough time with wiring my amp up. First off, I am not new to wiring and even getting through the firewall, but this is a different animal. I looked through everything I can find, which is rather limited, and I think I have found where I am supposed to go through.

 

First off, I have a 2010 Fusion SEL. After looking at the pictures linked above I could not find that particular grommet. i am attaching a picture of what looks like it is where the clutch would normally come through. It seems like it is a lot higher up than the one in the linked picture. The issue I have is you cannot really see under the hood where this comes out and you never want to drill if you are not positive you are in the right place. I almost just pulled the trigger on it the other day but I decided I would wait and post here to see if I got any responses.

 

I already have the inline converter in the trunk and the ground wire run. Any help would be much appreciated.

 

Thanks.

That is the correct spot. It is fairly high up and as I said I removed mine, drilled and then replaced it, but its hard to get out with 4 clips on it and mine popped out (I was working alone) and fell into the cover under the engine that I had to fish out). If you shine a light from the inside you should be able to find it looking in the engine compartment (preferably a dark environment) to see if there is anything in front of it. There wasn't on mine, but you should drill slow just to be sure. You need to have 3 hands to do this it seems.

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  • 1 year later...

That is the correct spot. It is fairly high up and as I said I removed mine, drilled and then replaced it, but its hard to get out with 4 clips on it and mine popped out (I was working alone) and fell into the cover under the engine that I had to fish out). If you shine a light from the inside you should be able to find it looking in the engine compartment (preferably a dark environment) to see if there is anything in front of it. There wasn't on mine, but you should drill slow just to be sure. You need to have 3 hands to do this it seems.

 

Ok, I realize this is a year old post, but where the heck is this magic white plastic cap? I'm trying to run a cable for an amp through this spot, but I don't think it exists on my car (or is used by something else). I've got a 2008 Fusion SEL with the 4 cylinder auto. I took a picture similar to the ones that are posted, and that spot doesn't seem to exist. Is there anywhere else this cable ca be run without drilling a hole? I'm not exactly a small guy and fitting down there to drill a hole is going to put a heck of a toll on my back. Granted, that's going to happen either way.

 

I don't think it'll run through the grommet where the rest of the wiring goes through either, I tried getting a piece of fence wire i there, and there was no room at all.

 

Any help would really be appreciated.

 

edit: Ok, so it's there, under a metal cover that a circuit box of some sort is bolted to. I'm a little worried about taking that box off, because I can't see the top bolt, so I don't know if I'd be able to get that box back on once I get it off. I think the best way would be to take that box off and cut the metal cover off, but as I said I'm worried about getting the top bolt back in. Are there any other holes to get this damn wire through?

Edited by mafitch7479
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  • 7 months later...

hope i'm not resurrecting too old of a post; i did this on my 2008 4cyl mercury milan today; exactly what the last poster mentioned about that metal panel and box.

 

the box has 3 nuts holding it to a second bracket, that second bracket is welded to the metal panel covering the access hole to the firewall. Once you take the bracket holding the mitsubishi box off, it has three plugs, you can move it to the right side of the steering column, remove two bigger nuts, and you'll see the magic white panel mentioned above with a bolt attatched to it (the bottom bolt of the second panel you removed. You shouldn't hurt anything removing these.

 

to put your cable through, i snaked my cable through a hole i drilled slightly smaller then my cable in the white panel, then poked it between the rubber lining inside, to the hole where all the stock wires poke through by the cars computer. You will need to take the battery out to access the white panel under the hood, have someone hold it so you dont drop it; while undoing the tabs inside the car, behind the metal bracket you undid.

 

i havent found any help on forums till thread

 

hope the photos help :)

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post-11096-0-64640100-1318900370_thumb.jpg

post-11096-0-00600300-1318900378_thumb.jpg

Edited by ethankoehler
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I thought I'd resurect this thread instead of starting a duplicate.

 

I'm in the process of installing amateur radio gear in my 2012 Ford Fusion SE, 4 cylinder. The process started with what I do to every new vehicle I take delivery on. I punched a 3/4" hole in the trunk lid and installed a Larsen NMO2/70 antenna. Then using a fish tape, I pulled the coaxial cable from the trunk where it was dressed to the other electrical wires. Then I fished it under the rear seat and under the carpeting to the rear of the console. Then through the console where it exited at the front with about 2 feet to spare. I located my Icom ID-880 D-Star radio on the passeger side of the console. Using the fish tape, I avoided pulling the entire console. I only removed the console's rear cover to get the coax as it exited from under the carpet. Locating the radio on the passenger side console intrude too much with the passenger's leg room and eliminates the need an extension speaker and extension microphone cables if the radio stayed int he trunk. I initially planned on locating the contol head on the front of the coin drawer as it really looks nice there. But in that position, it requires the driver to look down, taking his eyes off the road. So I decided to use a small suction mount with a threaded camera stud on it. This screws nicely into the plate of the control head. I plan to position the head on the center storage compartment on the dash.

 

The White Mystery Grommet:

On my 2012 Fusion SE, the white plastic grommet is located behind a perforated oval in the interior plastic firewall liner. If you cut the perforations with a razor blade, remove and discard the oval cutout, the white plug is clearly visible. On my vehicle, there is no object covering the plug. From the engine bay, it is difficult to see with the battery in position. Once the battery is out, the oval is clearly accessible. I strongly advise that you refrain from connecting directly to the battery but instead connect to the B+ side of the engine bay fuse box. You will experience no voltage drop locating it there and your connections will be away from the corrosion of the battery terminals. Pictures will be posted when the job is completed.

Edited by Harry Seaward
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There are a couple of things with the "Mystery Plug" on the 2012 Fusion that are different from the previous years.

As mentioned in my previous post, access to the plug was very easy from the interior. There is no box or object in front of it. It is clearly accessible from under the dash.

From the engine bay, the plug is now covered with a foil faced tar patch. Removal of the plug is very difficult, and I decided to drill the hole as it was mounted in the firewall.

 

I've included some pictures of the plug, as well as where I mounted the radio's control head.

pix2.jpg

pix1.jpg

pix3.jpg

nmo4.jpg

radio.jpg

Edited by Harry Seaward
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  • 7 months later...

The grommet described is apparently a blank where the clutch master cylinder would be on a 6-speed car. As a result, this technique doesn't work on cars with manual transmissions. I found out the hard way.

 

Another method to get a power cable through the firewall is through an existing grommet.

 

Tools needed: Long screwdriver, electrical tape (a light bright color will be a huge help), strong thin cord (about four feet), flashlight, knife, long needlenose pliers.

 

1. Remove the battery and battery tray. (This is a good time to slap some anti-sieze on these bolts and maybe put a drain hole in the bottom of the tray.)

2. Locate the large rubber grommet in the firewall which terminates in a sort of sleeve. It has a large number of wires passing through it. It's right behind the computer module thing.

3. Tape a strong, thin cord to the end of the screwdriver. Tape mostly at the end of the screwdriver as you will need to cut the tape to access the cord and there won't be much room.

4. Lube the tip of the screwdriver liberally with silicone or something similar. Liquid dish soap works well, too.

5. Work the screwdriver down into the engine compartment so it is parallel to the wires.

6. Gently wriggle it up under the sleeve and toward the firewall.

7. Keep wriggling forward until you can feel it push through into the cabin.

8. Be CAREFUL not to push too hard as the last thing you want to do is damage a wire in the harness.

9. Crawl under the dash with a flashlight and look behind the fuse panel. You will see the tip of the screw driver. There is very little room for access here. The fuse panel cannot be removed without taking the dash apart or out. The bottom mounting nut can be removed and the bracket/panel pulled out to gain an inch or so, but that's it.

10. Go back under the hood and rotate the screwdriver so the cord is facing you when you are under the dash. This makes the next step much easier.

11. Take a knife and cut the tape to gain access to the cord.

12. Take the needlenose pliers, grasp the cord and pull it through the grommet.

13. Tie the cord to the clutch pedal to prevent it from being pulled back through the firewall. This may be overkill, but better safe than sorry.

14. Go back under the hood and pull the screwdriver out.

16. Tape the under-hood end of the cord to your power cable.

17. Apply a liberal dose of lubricant and pull the cable through with the cord.

 

What you have is a watertight and clean pass through with no modification to the car. Should work on at A/T car, too. In a previous life I installed stereos and security systems. I always preferred running cables this way. As long as you're careful not to damage a wire with the screwdriver, you can't damage the car.

 

Now, if someone can give me the name of the "engineer" who designed the mounting clip system for the rocker moldings, I'd like to give him a piece of my mind! :angry22:

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