Instrument Panel Battery Power

[BlackTux]

Ok, been a while and this needs some background.

 

I have arranged this as a daily log to help understand the sequence of events and actions performed. Please be patient!

 

This is a 2010 SE with SYNC/Moonroof package. 3.0L with select shift auto, single CD, Sirrius, and base SYNC (no LCD or MyFord).

 

Up until a couple weeks ago, absolutely no problems with this car.

 

Day 1 About 5 degrees outside, car slow to crank but starts.

 

Day 2 Same issue but still starts but now center display stuck on "Ford Fusion". Compass heading IS displayed, but no clock, no SYNC, and no audio

 

Day 3 Battery dead, won't jump. Charged after work and car started, but still center display/no audio/no SYNC problem. Cleaned terminals

 

Day 4 Battery dead. Assumed either audio control module (ACM) and/or SYNC module. Removed and checked fuses for radio, SYNC module, and 5V radio crank sense. I left fuses out

 

Day 5 Battery dead. Autozone tested and said it was bad. Replaced battery and all fuses. Still center display/no audio/no SYNC issue, but no battery problems

 

Days 6 - 9 Drove car for these four days without battery problem. Fender-bender on day 9 due to snow and parked car because of fender, hood and door damage

 

Day 11 After parked for two days, battery dead. Removed and charged overnight

 

Day 12 Performed battery current parasitic draw test. Initially, draw was 920 mA (0.92A). Let sit for 20 minutes to let FREDs go to sleep. Draw was then 520 mA (0.52A). Everything I've read (while finding nothing specific to this car) states draw should be between 20 and 35 mA (0.02A - 0.035A). Of course this varies by make, model, options, etc., but most agree that anything above 40 mA (0.04A) is suspect, while anything over 100 mA (0.1A) is definitely a problem. Note here that after messing around with ammeter a few times, turned key on to lower window and center display/audio/and SYNC came on like nothing ever happened. But current draw still too high, but less at 360 mA (0.36 A)

 

So, with ammeter connected, began pulling interior fuses one at a time until current draw fell to within what I considered acceptable, which is between 20 and 35 mA (0.02 A - 0.035 A). Only got 10 fuses out until I located the circuit. This is fuse 26 (10A) and identified as "Instrument Panel Battery Power".

 

Started putting all fuses back in one at a time except that one 10A. Draw only went up to 20 mA (0.02 A) and never increased. As soon I put fuse 26 back in, current draw spiked to 360 mA (0.36A). Removed fuse and draw settled back down to ~20 mA.

 

With the fuse out, the car will start and run but no idiot lights, no gages, no center display/audio/SYNC, no passive alarm light blinking with car off. All other accessories work fine.

 

My conclusion is that there must be an interface between the instrument panel and the center display. I conclude this because 1) it was working before I removed the fuse in question, and 2) the compass heading is no longer displayed. And since the display was the first thing to go out in the first place, there has to be a correlation here. So the problem appears to lie in the instrument panel, its wiring, and/or the interface (if one exists) between it and the center display.

 

WHEWWW!

 

Several requests:

 

Does anyone here have a good electrical diagram that would show this (or a wiring diagram for this car, particularly one showing the instrument panel-ACM-SYNC-instrument panel interconnects)?

 

Has anyone experienced this themselves?

 

Is there a savvy Ford tech on here that can help to isolate the problem and perhaps advise as to how to fix it?

 

I know modern instrument panels are basically circuit boards, but there are several connections to it. If I can isolate the connected component as the actual misfit causing the battery drain, that would be awesome (understanding that it could end being the instrument panel itself that needs replacing). But if its a bad plug or wire, then I can fix it.

 

Thank you everyone for your patience.

 

 

Grumps

Edited January 27, 2016 by BlackTux

[eGuru]

You are correct, the instrument panel (IPC) talks to the center display (FDIM) over the Canbus,

Since the current draw is excessive with the F26 fuse installed, I believe you are correct that it is a defect IPC.

While there is a small possibility that the problem is something connected to the IPC that is drawing the current, I think it unlikely.

 

There is only one connector going to the IPC so it would be difficult to selectively isolate the IPC from connected modules and sensors.

 

You can find a used IPC on ebay for about $100.

Edited January 28, 2016 by eGuru

[BlackTux]

eGuru:

 

Thanks for your response. I was kinda leaning towards the IPC but secretly hoping a misapplied plug was the culprit. I was going to see if I could disconnect the center display (since this was the only indication of a problem), but since it suddenly did start working, and I did remove its fuse which showed that it was not causing the current draw, it looks like the IPC. Is this hard to replace on the Fusion? I pulled the IPC out of the wife's PT Cruiser some time back to replace some bulbs and it seemed simple enough.

 

Thanks, again for your help. If you (or anyone else reading this) has a decent wiring diagram for this car, I would really appreciate it.

 

 

Grumps

[eGuru]

It's not difficult to remove the cluster. I once saw a good instruction but can't find the link today.

One thing I forgot to mention is that the dealer will need to perform some programming once the new cluster is installed.

Bring both of your keys.

 

I have a spare wiring diagram manual for the 2012 Fusion/MKZ - its about 3/4" thick.

Edited January 29, 2016 by eGuru

[BlackTux]

eGuru:

 

Thanks for the tip about reprogramming, didn't think of that. If I replace it, I assume the car is driveable so I can take it to get programmed (?). I have to get this thing in to the dealer anyway due to the recent recall on the evap module.

 

I figure there very little difference regarding 2010-2012 wiring. Are you willing to part with this manual? I do not expect to sell this car anytime soon, so a comprehensive wiring diagram may be a good investment.

 

 

Grumps

Edited February 1, 2016 by BlackTux

[eGuru]

Likely the cheapest source for a manual is ebay.

I see some listings for $25. That would probably be the most convenient source.

I don't mind parting with mine but I am in the frozen north and shipping to the excited states would probably cost the same as getting it from ebay.

 

You can also get the connector pin-outs for the harnesses that connect to the SJB and some other drawings at Ford Fusion Club. Look for "all my wiring diagrams"

 

I believe that your car will be drivable to the dealership after you replace the IPC.

If anybody knows any different, please let us know.

[BlackTux]

eGuru:

 

Thanks again...and you are probably right. I could get it easier through an ebay or something like that. Car still at body shop and have IPC on order. Will post when I get it in and results.

 

 

Grumps

[drolds1]

I believe that your car will be drivable to the dealership after you replace the IPC.

If anybody knows any different, please let us know.

I don't know for sure, but the car may not start with an IC from another car. See this. I'd check with someone knowledgeable in Ford electronics. Our own 'thefoeyouknow' would likely hve the answer but I haven't seen him around for a while. In the alternative, you could ask the dealer who they use for replacement clusters or call one of the many online sellers. Example.

 

There also odometer considerations here.

[Waldo]

The IPC stores the key information, so when you install a used one, it's going to be programmed for the two keys from the car it was originally installed in, so it's not going to start with the keys you have. Additionally the dealer needs to upload the configuration from your old cluster before downloading it into the new one, so my advice would be to just take your replacement part to the dealer and have them do the entire swap. The good news is they only have to take off the one finish panel around the cluster (you could do that yourself) so they shouldn't be charging you too much. One hour labor would seem fair to me.

[eGuru]

 

 

Try these IPC wiring drawings for 2012 Fusion/MKZ

[BlackTux]

@drolds1 and Waldo: Never even considered disabling the car with different IPC. We have all been enlightened in a very critical way...Thanks!!! Will head to the dealer this weekend.

 

@eGuru: You have been a huge help and I really appreciate it. Thanks for the diagrams- I think they will work.

 

Will keep you all posted.

 

 

Grumps

[BlackTux]

It's been a few weeks and I forgot to update.

 

The IPC I got from eBay was not the right one, even though they said it was and the picture sure looked like it, it was actually for a Focus.

 

I have breakdown protection through my insurance company (didn't know until the wife pointed it out), which also covers electrical.

 

So, had dealer run a diagnostic and they found the IPC was at fault. After a $250 deductable, I had a new IPC installed (this normally would cost - with diagnostic, new IPC, labor, and tax - about $720 out the door. So, keep that in mind if you ever have to do this.

 

The dealer may need the car for a couple of days. They had to order the part and then send it out to get programmed. I never got why (since I assumed they could do it right there), but they kept the Fuse for three days. That's because I had the recall work done as well.

 

So the car is happy and I'm only out a couple hundred bucks.

 

Thanks everyone who responded. You guys were a huge help.

 

 

Kind regards,

Grumps

[drolds1]

Glad it worked out for you and thanks for the update. Lots of people don't bother to do that

[Daklestad]

I just did the same exact thing, then found this article....my current draws are nearly identical, same conclusion, problem with the IPC, also saw fair draw on the keypad illumination  #5 10A fuse, and the SYNC  #20, though this bops around then settles fairly low.  Good thing I had a small child to do all the fuse pulling under the dash....what a bad design, could only do it by pulling fuse box off its mounts and untangling the wire harnesses that were all twisted up....never worked on before, like this from the factory in Mexico.