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Sport Mode Malfunction


Linc
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So recently I have been unable to activate the sport mode on my transmission. I figure it is a sensor or switch issue, but I don't know for

certain how this work. Is there a switch on the shifter that activates it or is it something on the transmission? The shift lever will move

to the right like normal and move the the shift up and shift down positions. But those modes (sport & manual) never engage.

 

Thanks

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Well yes, but like two or three weeks later. The first time it didn't work I kept trying and then it

suddenly came on. But that was the last time. So I have a feeling there is a sensor or switch

inside the shifter or under the console.

 

Even before I had the tune I have ghost warnings. I have a door ajar light from time to time but

the digital display doesn't say "door ajar" and I have had and air bag warning light a few times.

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So I spent some time today pulling apart the console to determine how the sport mode (manual) is activated. What I found

is that it uses a magnet to create the hall effect. Then when you push forward or back you move the magnet over another

set of sensors (for lack of the correct word.) But I have no idea how to test this, or to fool it to make certain it is only this

little circuit board.

 

This is the board, the three black squares on the right are the hall sensors.

20160130 164258 Edit

This pictures is to point out where the magnet is located. In this picture the circuit board has been removed.

20160130 164917 Edit

 

This image shows the position when in normal drive. The magnet is the little silver piece that is above the center sensor.

20160130 164653 Edit

This image show the magnet in close proximity to the center sensor, this is the sport mode position.

20160130 164719 Edit

So if anyone has insight into how to test this, I am listening.
Oh, and the battery is fine, past with flying colors.

 

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I discovered the source of at least one of my ghost warnings. The door ajar light

is also attached to a hood sensor. This hood sensor appears to have issues and

it has been confirmed as the source. I still do not have manual (sport) mode and need

a schematic for it if anyone has one.

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Mini Update - I see the wrench light every now and then. This indicates a powertrain / transmission issue. Well

that seemed obvious to me. Used my ODBII Bluetooth scanner and Torque to pull out two codes.

 

P0819 - Up and Down Shift Switch to Transmission Range Correlation

 

Not certain, but I may have caused this code when I was diagnosing this system. But this implies the switch

that I pictured in a previous post. Unfortunately, seem to only be available with a new shifter for $500. But I

think I will try to find a schematic before I got that route.

 

U0100 - Lost Communication With ECM/PCM "A"

 

Could be the problem, but not really certain what all this is pointing me to yet. But from my reading this must

have been a temporary situation because it "should" not run at all if this situation remains.

 

That is all

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Yes, I seem to remember someone having to buy a new shifter for a similar problem. Individual parts aren't sold by Ford.

 

Have you considered returning to the stock tune to see if normal operation returns? Just as a means to eliminate the tune as a source of the problem.

 

Have a look here, particularly under Potential Causes, 3rd para. WRT performance enhancing devices:

 

http://www.obd-codes.com/u0100

 

 

You're correct, though. The car wouldn't run if this was a permanent code.

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Thanks for the link. I will check it out. As for the tune, I had already tried that and did it again today because another

person was nagging me that "it was the problem" and that I was ignoring it. LOL

 

Anyway, no change on that front with the stock tune. If I can find a schematic I can properly test and likely correctly

diagnose the problem and in turn, fix it.

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You might want to look at the C215 connector located in the driver side kick panel (I think its the upper connector). C215 routes signals from the shifter to the PCM. Take a close look at Pins 21, 22 (Tip+ and Tip-) and Pin 5 and Pin 10.

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You might want to look at the C215 connector located in the driver side kick panel (I think its the upper connector). C215 routes signals from the shifter to the PCM. Take a close look at Pins 21, 22 (Tip+ and Tip-) and Pin 5 and Pin 10.

Thanks eGuru !

 

Where did you get this information? Do you havce access to the schematic? My car is a branded title car so I expected to find issues. I was a Master Mechanic

the first half of my life so things like this don't scare me...much. :) Do you know if there is a pin point testing procedure for this subsystem?

 

Are those four pins the same four from the circuit board for the manual mode? It only has four wires, so I wondered.

 

Again. Thanks

Edited by Linc
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I don't have a schematic for the PCBA or a trouble-shooting guide.

If the 4 wires shown in your photos go to a 12-pin connector (C3233), then I can tell you what they are for.

C3233-Pin 9 GY is Tip+

C3233-Pin 10 GN-VT is Tip-

C3233-Pin 8 GY goes to F47

C3233-Pin 11 is GND or SIG GND

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I don't have a schematic for the PCBA or a trouble-shooting guide.

If the 4 wires shown in your photos go to a 12-pin connector (C3233), then I can tell you what they are for.

C3233-Pin 9 GY is Tip+

C3233-Pin 10 GN-VT is Tip-

C3233-Pin 8 GY goes to F47

C3233-Pin 11 is GND or SIG GND

 

Thanks again, the four wires do go down to a 12 wire plug at the base of the shifter. I hope to have time tonight

to do some checking with the information you supplied.

 

Linc

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Well I found the troubleshooting section of the manual. For this particular issue you start at 307-05A-17 for the pin point

testing. There is also a section for General Network Function at 418-00-32 for the code verification and pin point testing.

 

Now, I have been crazy busy so I only got part way through before it started raining and I wanted to stop laying in the mud.

But when I removed the kick panel to start that part of the pin point testing I found this :

Random Wire Repair

 

Finding this derailed me as I attempted to figure out what happened here. I don't know if it is related, if there was a

remote start or something installed here, or if this is a repair (terribly done) from when the car was hit.

 

So I would say, progress, but not solved.

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Update - Found a single wire at the shifter plug that has intermittent connection. Need a new wire terminal to repair it. However, I don't think

it is the entire source of my problem as I can defeat the failure and the function does not return. After this repair there is only one step left

in the pin point test. If that proves to also not be the cause the manual says to replace the shifter. That is because that little circuit board in

the pictures above is not a serviceable item from Ford. This is frustrating because a $20 board is going to likely cost me $500 for a shifter that

I really don't need. More to come once I source a replacement wire end to repair this plug.

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I assume the PCBA is the little circuit board above. What exactly do you want pictures of as I can easily do that. Second question is

about the C3233 wiring block. Do you know what the name or number is for the wiring terminals that go inside of it? I need to source

a replacement and I have not been able to find them on the net. Will check the dealer at lunch tomorrow.

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I assume the PCBA is the little circuit board above. What exactly do you want pictures of as I can easily do that. Second question is

about the C3233 wiring block. Do you know what the name or number is for the wiring terminals that go inside of it? I need to source

a replacement and I have not been able to find them on the net. Will check the dealer at lunch tomorrow.

PCBA (Printed Circuit Board Assembly) is a generic term, sorry about creating confusion.

 

I don't know where to source just the terminals. The dealer will be able to sell you a wiring pigtail.

 

You could speed things up at the counter if you had the correct WPT number for the 12 cavity connector.

 

http://www.fordservicecontent.com/pubs/content/connectors/images/connectorcatalog.pdf

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Thanks for the link. I have in the past been able to purchase the ends and replace them. This terminal is

unlike the rest I have here so that is why I need to source it. What pictures do you need of the PCBA that

are not already above?

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Thanks for the link. I have in the past been able to purchase the ends and replace them. This terminal is

unlike the rest I have here so that is why I need to source it. What pictures do you need of the PCBA that

are not already above?

We would need pictures focused in enough that we could read the manufacturer's part numbers (MPN's).

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If your troubleshooting points to the PCBA as being the culprit, take closeup pictures of the top and bottom sides and it may be possible to troubleshoot to the component level if we can see the MPN's clearly.

So everything says to replace the shifter and that would be the PCBA. Here are the up close pictures of the board. I did discover another weird thing and I wonder if anyone else has seen this. Sometimes when I turn off the car there is a buzzing sound under the hood. If I unplug the PCM on the transmission it will go away. So I was thinking maybe a bad PCM relay or something.

 

20160215 123744 001 Edit

20160215 123813 Edit

20160215 123755 Edit

20160215 123803 004 Edit

I can email you full size images if you like as well. Thanks for any help you can give me.
Edited by Linc
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