Sport Mode Malfunction

[eGuru]

Before getting into tracing anything on the board, let's see if it creates TIP+ or TIP- signals for the PCM.

I don't know if they transition from a high level to a low level when the shifter (or switch) is activated. TIP+ and TIP- may also be short interval pulses.

 

So lets make some measurements and find out.

 

With the shifter in the S position and without calling for an up or downshift:

Measure the voltage between C3233 Pin 9 (Grey wire) - TIP+ and ground and record the reading.

Upshift and hold the shifter in the upshift position- see if you have a voltage change and (if it isn't a pulse) record the reading.

 

Repeat the above for the TIP- signal which is on C3233 Pin 10 (Green- Violet)

 

When not calling for an up or downshift, both signals should be at roughly the same potential (close to 12V or close to ground).

When calling for a shift, both signals should transition in the same direction.

 

If either TIP signal is stuck in the "active" state, the PCM won't respond.

[Linc]

So you need these tests performed with everything connected and installed correct? Do I need to have the engine running? To check voltage should I just push in

from the rear of the connector?

[eGuru]

So you need these tests performed with everything connected and installed correct? Do I need to have the engine running? To check voltage should I just push in

from the rear of the connector?

 

Yes to all of the above.

[Linc]

So I started the car and put on the parking brake. I then shifted to drive and then over to manual, no S but same thing. While in this position

I measured the voltage between ground and Pin 9 on the C3233 plug. The voltage held between 13.65 - 13.70 for the period of 30 seconds. I

then pulled the shifter to the + position and the voltage made no change. I held it there for about 30 seconds and again, no change.

 

The second test was was between ground and pin 10 on the C3233 plug. The voltage held between 14.40 - 14.43 for the a period of 30

seconds. I then moved the shifter to the - position and held it there for 30 seconds. There was no noticeable change in voltage.

 

 

Now I mentioned before that there is a humming noise coming from the PCM. It isn't always there, but it is right now. I have found that if the

key is left on and I unplug the PCM the humming stops. When I plug the PCM back in the humming returns. Now if the key is off (key out of

the ignition) the humming continues. When I unplug the PCM the humming stops. However, unlike the previous test, when I plug it back in

the humming does not return until I turn the car back on again. Over the weekend I didn't drive the car for a few days and the battery went

dead. I mention this because it seems like your "stuck" idea has some merit and maybe that humming is the PCM saying it has conflicting

signals.

 

Also there is an occasional P0819 ODB trouble code set. This always happens when I am playing with the wiring. Usually the safety lock

out will not function when this happens as well. Pushing the wiring into the plug usually solves this.

 

Thanks again

[eGuru]

Almost out of ideas but not entirely. Pin 11 is signal ground. It's physical connection is at a splice close to the ECU.

Measure the resistance from Pin 11 to ground. Should be low.

 

 

If that's ok, disconnect the pcba's 4-pin connector and see what voltage to ground you measure from Pin 9 & 10 to ground. My guess is 12V (roughly).

If it's 12V, leave the PCBA disconnected, I will have a follow-up test. If not I am going to go for beer.

[Linc]

Almost out of ideas but not entirely. Pin 11 is signal ground. It's physical connection is at a splice close to the ECU.

Measure the resistance from Pin 11 to ground. Should be low.

 

 

If that's ok, disconnect the pcba's 4-pin connector and see what voltage to ground you measure from Pin 9 & 10 to ground. My guess is 12V (roughly).

If it's 12V, leave the PCBA disconnected, I will have a follow-up test. If not I am going to go for beer.

So my testing at lunch showed that the pin 11 to ground was clean with full continuity and on the Ohms it was .09

 

Then I disconnected the PCBA connector and tested the pin 9 voltage was zero and the pin 10 voltage was 13.65

[eGuru]

Linc, I won't be able to validate your measurements by comparing to mine.

My Fusion is in the repair shop as it was T-boned on the weekend by a NY state guy who didn't make his stop at the sign - or couldn't because he was driving on "all-seasons" instead of the mandatory winter tires required here (even though temperature was -22C).

 

So we'll just plod along using best guesses since we don't have trouble-shooting documents.

 

The zero volts on Pin 9 doesn't make sense. The voltage is rarely zero at a digital input-maybe close to zero but not zero.

So I suspect an open circuit condition on that pin - either wiring/connector related or PCM input.

With the small board disconnected, measure the resistance between Pin 9 and ground. Reverse the DVM leads and measure it again.

[Linc]

Well at this point I think your car might be a tad more important. I hope they can repair all the damage to your

satisfaction and that you get back to enjoying it. Very sorry for you, I know how much it sucks to have someone

else hit your vehicle and leave you with the mess. I submit my truck as my personal example.

 

http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f28/someone-tagged-my-truck-morning-277798/

 

I was nearly stopped on the freeway and got hit by a guy doing nearly 60. Good news for me was that my only

witness was a police officer stopped on the side of the freeway right next to me.

 

 

So, for my car. I think that I need to solve another problem first and I believe they are related and it could be

the root cause of my issue. I suddenly discovered that my TCM (may also be the PCM) is sometimes humming

when I shut off my car. This if left unattended will bleed my battery completely dry. What I know is that if I just

turn on the key, most times it will start humming. If I turn off the key it will continue to hum. If I unplugged the

TCM/PCM with the ignition off it will stop humming. When I plug it back in, it was stay quiet and not bleed down

my battery. If the key is in the ignition and on, then when I unplug it the humming stops, but when plugged back

in the humming continues. From a diagnostic standpoint I thought maybe there was a stuck relay or something

so I just randomly pulled all the relays to see if the humming would stop but it didn't. I also have attempted unplugging

the PCBA as well as the shifter assembly and it continues to hum. All these unplugging events are performed with

the ignition off but the humming going. I feel that if I figure out the source maybe things will start working again.

I am going to look at all the grounds in hope of finding a loose one but I don't expect that to be the cause or solution.

 

What I need s a full schematic of either the entire car, or the subsystem of the powertrain. Anyway, that is where I

am today. Hope your day is better.

[Linc]

So I still have not fixed the car, but I have a few new pieces of information. I purchased a new

shifter assembly for the PCBA but have not installed it and don't believe I really need it. I bought

a new battery and installed it because this problem killed mine. I also bought a new battery cable

because mine was missing the red cover and I am obsessive like that. I have not put that on yet

either, as other things are going on. But what is interesting is that the battery cable includes the

entire engine harness, so a plus there.

 

But the real interesting thing is that suddenly the last to day, while driving the car will switch to

sport mode on its own regardless of shifter position. And changing the shifter position does not

alter that state. The only thing that fixes it is shutting the car down and restarting. I either have

a serious wiring problem or the Trans Control Module is defective. I think at least.

[eGuru]

Thanks for posting an update. I was curious about how this issue had been resolved.

[Linc]

So all my problems were/are connected to humidity and temperature.  When it was cold, or wet the sport

mode would not activate or function properly or at all.  When warmer and dry everything works as expected.

This revelation told me that I had a connection issue, so replacing that harness I had purchased previously 

became a necessity. Also using dialectic grease on every connection to keep out moisture. This appears to

be the solution. 

[jscott645]

Linc, did you figure out what the issue is? I'm having the same issue with my 2012 Sport.