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2013 6F35 auto Trans fluid drain and fill only how to???


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Ok,

 

So I have looked, looked, looked, and looked! The only info I can find after four days of searching is for the 6f35 in the escape, it has a transmission dipstick, my 2013 fusion 1.6l ecoboost automatic transmission dose not have a dipstick. How in the hell do I fill the thing up and how do I know when I'm full? My plan was to measure out the fluid that comes out when I drain it and replace the same amount with motorcraft mercon LV. I have 80k on the car and am livernoise tuned. I'm stationed in Germany ( I can't believe how many ford dealers there are here) but the euro to dollar exchange rate is stupid and most dealers want 300 euro (355ish dollars). Can someone on the great site please point me in the right direction or a walkthrough so I can make this happen?

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I took it to my self service auto shop on base and put it up on a lift. I drained the fluid and a little over 4 1/2 quarts came out so I put the same amount back in. I had to unbolt the transmission valve next to the fill cap to access it. I'm still debating if I should do one more drain and fill a few thousand miles later just to remove more of the old fluid. It still has some hang or rough shifts from 2nd to 3rd but I think it's a little better ( or maybe it's all in my head). I used motorcraft mercon LV like it says to use because I did not want to mix redline or some other synthetic brand unless I did a full flush and I have been told to never do a flush. Any input on if I should do another drain and fill on my next oil change?

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Best to do a 3x drain and fill to "simulate" a flush. I forget the percentage exactly (87?), but it gets most of the old fluid out that way without having to disconnect/reconnect hoses or risk running the trans dry if you forget something/walk away.

 

If you can do it after say 500 miles, then again after 500 miles, that should be good enough. Don't wait for thousands of miles in between. If the shifting is still not very good, and the old fluid looked ok (pinkish/red, not burnt, no debris, etc), try adding products like Lubegard's Shudder Fixx (my first preference) or Lucas Transmission Fix being sure to follow directions as stated on the product labels.

http://www.amazon.com/Lubegard-19610-Tranny-Instant-Shudder/dp/B0002JMLQU/

http://www.amazon.com/Lucas-10009-Transmission-Fix-oz/dp/B000ARTZPO/

 

Also check with the dealer to see if a newer calibration is available for the PCM/TCM. Just like computer software updates, sometimes they fix small things that make a big difference.

 

How much mileage on your car btw? Do you have access to a borescope (decent USB ones are available)? You can check the condition of the back of the intake valves to see if they are carboning/carboned up. Problems like that and with the fuel system can SEEM like transmission issues. Since you have an Ecoboost, I don't know how effective fuel injection cleaners can be, but I would recommend Techron or BG 44K if you decide to try them. No harm done using them, just not sure if as much benefit as on a PFI engine. You should also "exercise" the engine from time to time, to blow out the carbon before it builds up.

Example of USB Borescope: http://www.amazon.com/Depstech-Endoscope-Borescope-Waterproof-Megapixels/dp/B00ZKKLSA6/

BG's test on a GTDI engine (Taurus SHO): https://www.bgprod.com/bgfueltest/ regarding carbon buildup

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I have 81k on my fusion right now. I dumped my VW Gti due to the on going issues with Port injection and carbon build up. Additives do no good for port injection, you have to walnut blast or clean them by hand and its a pain and not cheap if the dealer dose it. I will do another flush in 500 and if no change ill try some additive. I contacted ford and asked that since im in Germany if the german ford dealers would honor any recall work but have not heard from them as of yet.

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I have 81k on my fusion right now. I dumped my VW Gti due to the on going issues with Port injection and carbon build up. Additives do no good for port injection, you have to walnut blast or clean them by hand and its a pain and not cheap if the dealer dose it. I will do another flush in 500 and if no change ill try some additive. I contacted ford and asked that since im in Germany if the german ford dealers would honor any recall work but have not heard from them as of yet.

I think you mean direct injection. There is NO Ford-recommended method to de-carbon the intake valves as of yet, other than replacing the cylinder head! See this video. In light of the fact that the revised 3.5EB engine for 2017 will have both MPI and DI, Ford is acknowledging the intake valve carbon problem. The only thing that's OK to add to your fuel is Chevron Techron and IDK if that's even available in Germany.

 

WRT drain and fill of the 6F35, as noted above, 3 times is recommended.

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well lucky for me I get to do the European clean... drive 130mph for and hour straight and hope the heat burns off the carbon. I was looking at CAI and downpipes but there is no support for the 1.6 for downpipes and the CAI just seems like a waste of money. if someone else has a better idea on how to improve my car or power im all ears. if not ill just keep my livernoise tune.

Edited by clutch797
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  • 4 years later...
32 minutes ago, drolds1 said:

Here's a video from the Ford guru that you can use: https://youtu.be/rvljKBa9rIs

Thank you, I have watched all the videos that are on Youtube. On the Focus there are many videos of doing a fluid change where you disconnect a line going to the radiator or transmission, then running the car until while the fluid is being pumped out that line you add new fluid from the top until the fluid coming out of that line is bright red new fluid. I was hoping to find someone doing that kind of fluid change on a fusion.

 

Like this one:

Transmission Flush - 2000-2007 Ford Focus

 

I was hoping to see the pages from the Service Manual on this procedure.

Edited by Digital_Dad
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