06 Fusion SEL - Front accident, now can't get airbag light off.

[nickbuol]

This is a little different than a lot of the things I've seen about parts failing, or battery issues (although I admit that I haven't checked the battery, but it seems fine... I know, that doesn't mean anything with these Fusions).

 

Anyway, my daughter got her 2006 Fusion SEL into a front accident. It basically trashed the bumper and bumper support, and triggered the driver's airbag and blew the seat belt (as it should).

 

Anyway, I have the thing looking spot on perfect, had the seatbelt rebuilt from one of those online places, put in a replacement (not brand new) driver's airbag, had the module sent off and reset, and I am still getting an airbag light. I have an OBDII bluetooth tool and use the Torque app on my phone, which was able to read the initial codes that were the typical codes to mark the the airbag had deployed, and that the memory was full, etc. I scan now and get no codes at all. I tried another app, Carista, and it too doesn't find any codes.

 

For good measure I installed a new front impact sensor tonight, but that didn't make any difference either and felt like I just threw away another $75 for that part.

 

So here is what happens. I turn on the car, and it does the normal "light up everything on the dash" like all cars do right after starting, and then everything goes off. Then about 4-5 seconds later, the airbag light comes on. Doesn't matter if the car is in park or moving.

 

It is odd because there are no codes being generated that I can read, but yet I was able to read them after the accident.

 

I should also mention that the only electrical items that were damaged up front were 1 headlight socket and one foglight socket. All wiring looks completely undamaged.

 

What else could I check or do I have to take it somewhere that can somehow diagnose it better?

 

Thanks so much for any ideas.

 

[WWWPerfA_ZN0W]

Does the 2006 have an RCM (Restraints Control Module)? You might want to check it for damage. The RCM typically communicates with the IC (Instrument Cluster), so if the RCM sends a code or loses communications with the IC, the continuous air bag warning would be set. (based on the info in an FSM for later model year/different line)

 

EDIT: Found the 2006 info ---

Restraints Control Module (RCM)

WARNING: The restraints control module (RCM) orientation is critical for correct system operation. If a vehicle equipped with an air bag supplemental restraint system (SRS) has been involved in a collision in which the center tunnel area has been damaged, inspect the mounting and bracket for deformation. If damaged, a new RCM must be installed whether or not the air bags have deployed. In addition, make sure the area of the RCM mounting is restored to its original condition.

 

CAUTION: Prior to removal of the module, it is necessary to upload module configuration information to the diagnostic tool. This information needs to be downloaded into the new module once installed. For additional information, refer to Section 418-01 .

 

CAUTION: When installing a new restraints control module (RCM), always make sure the correct RCM is being installed. The RCM 40-pin connector is keyed differently for vehicles with side air curtains and side air bags than the 40-pin connector for vehicles without side air curtains and side air bags. Do not force the 40-pin connector onto the RCM. If the connector is forced onto the RCM, damage to the RCM and/or connector will occur.

 

NOTE: When installing a new restraints control module (RCM), always make sure the correct RCM is being installed. If an incorrect RCM is installed, erroneous DTCs will result.

The RCM carries out the following functions:

• deploys the air bag(s) in the event of a deployable crash.
• activates the safety belt buckle pretensioner and safety belt adaptive load limiting retractor to control tension on the safety belt.
• monitors the SRS for faults.
• illuminates the air bag indicator if a fault is detected.
• communicates through the data link connector (DLC) the on-demand or continuous Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs).
• signals the instrument cluster module to activate a chime if the air bag indicator is not available and another SRS fault exists.

The RCM monitors the SRS for possible faults. If a fault is detected while the ignition switch is in the ON position, the RCM will illuminate the air bag indicator located in the instrument cluster.

 

When the ignition is cycled (turned OFF and then ON), the air bag indicator will prove out by lighting for 6 seconds and then off. If a SRS fault exists, the air bag indicator will illuminate and remain illuminated for the rest of the key cycle. The RCM will also communicate the on-demand (current) and continuous (historical) DTCs through the DLC, to the diagnostic tool. If the RCM requests illumination of the air bag indicator and the air bag indicator does not function, the instrument cluster module will automatically activate an audible chime. The chime is a series of 5 sets of 5 tone bursts. If the chime is heard, the SRS and the air bag indicator require repair.

 

The RCM includes a backup power supply. This feature provides sufficient backup power to deploy the air bags in the event that the ignition circuit is lost or damaged during impact. The backup power supply will deplete its stored energy approximately one minute after the battery ground cable is disconnected.

Edited May 14, 2016 by WWWPerfA_ZN0W

[nickbuol]

Thanks @WWWPerfA_ZN0W

 

Yup, I had the RCM "reset" per my original post (I kinda had it buried in my post, sorry.)

 

"...had the seatbelt rebuilt from one of those online places, put in a replacement (not brand new) driver's airbag, had the module sent off and reset..."

 

That is my problem... I believe that I have replaced/repaired all of the key components of the system... The impact sensor that tells the (RCM) module to lock the seatbelt and deploy the airbag. My research I had done on the subject led me to believe that these were the things to check.

 

NOTE: I did NOT change out the clockspring. About 25% of the people online said that they always do it because they get damaged in a crash, but a majority 75% said to only worry about it if the connectors to the airbag itself get melted. The connectors on our 2006 Fusion looked perfect.

 

Is there any other way to test a clockspring for electrical functionality? I just threw $75 into the front impact sensor (that didn't look damaged, or even have a scratch on it, without any improvement, I would hate to just throw another $95 or so into a new clockspring just to "try it out"...

 

Again, any insight is appreciated.

[WWWPerfA_ZN0W]

I'd reexamine again the mounting points/trans tunnel carefully to make sure there is no deformation, just in case. Since this could be an electrical OR a mechanical issue or both.

 

As far as the clockspring, I don't know if it's truly necessary or not, but the FSM says it is:

 

Clockspring

The clockspring:

• is mounted on the steering column, behind the steering wheel.
• continuously transfers electrical signals from the driver air bag module to the restraints control module (RCM).

All vehicles

3. When any damage to the impact sensor mounting points or mounting hardware has occurred, repair or install new mounting points and mounting hardware as needed.

4. When the driver air bag module has deployed, a new clockspring must be installed.

5. Inspect the entire vehicle for damage, including the following components:
   • Steering column (deployable column if equipped)
   • Instrument panel knee bolsters and mounting points
   • Instrument panel braces and brackets
   • Instrument panel and mounting points
   • Seats and seat mounting points
   • Safety belts, safety belt buckles and safety belt retractors. For additional information, refer to Section 501-20A
   • SRS wiring, wiring harnesses and connectors

6. After carrying out the review and inspection of the entire vehicle for damage, repair or install new components as needed.

 

Excerpt:

Vehicle repairs reusing the same clockspring

6. WARNING: Incorrect centralization may result in premature component failure. If in doubt when centralizing the clockspring, repeat the centralizing procedure. Failure to follow this instruction may result in personal injury.

   CAUTION: Make sure the road wheels are in the straight-ahead position.

   If the vehicle's clockspring has rotated out of center, follow these steps to center the clockspring.
   1. Hold the clockspring outer housing stationary.

   2. CAUTION: Overturning will destroy the clockspring. The internal ribbon wire acts as the stop and can be broken from its internal connection.

      While turning the rotor counterclockwise, carefully feel for the ribbon wire to run out of length and for a slight resistance. Stop turning at this point.
   3. Turn the clockspring clockwise (approximately 2.25 turns) until the clockspring rotor wiring and connector are in the 12 o'clock position. Clockspring is now centered.
      • Do not allow the rotor to turn from this position.

7. CAUTION: If the vehicle is left unattended by the technician between centralizing the clockspring and installing the steering wheel, the centralizing procedure must be repeated.

   Install the steering wheel. For additional information, refer to Section 211-00 .

[nickbuol]

Interesting. I wonder why so many people told me not to worry about it unless the connectors were melted.

 

So I think that before I do that, I will just take one more step by removing the airbag, and then testing the clockspring for continuity. If it fails at all, then BAM. I will get one. If not, I will still be in the same conundrum that I am now... Buy a part that doesn't seem like it failed just because a manual says to replace it. Then again, there usually is a good reason to have those things in the manuals (stating that you "must replace" it).

 

Hopefully I will get a nice big failure of the clockspring and at least know that I am applying the correct fix.

 

I probably won't get time until Monday night to work on it. My youngest has Prom tonight and we have a bunch of high school kids coming to the house for pictures in about an hour (and I really should be doing last minute cleaning and not typing this. Shhh... Don't tell my wife.) and then tomorrow morning my oldest graduates from college a few hours away and we have to also move her out of the house that she was renting.

 

Thanks again for your help, and the instructions. I will let you know what develops.

[WWWPerfA_ZN0W]

Ya, I hope we got this bug narrowed down! Your secret is safe with me Your life is simply super busy, I don't envy you. A good friend of mine (also from IA btw) is out using his video taping skills today for his friend's daughter's graduation. 'tis the season ...

[nickbuol]

So here is the scoop... I took some time tonight, disconnected the battery, removed the driver's airbag, removed the steering wheel, and then removed the clockspring.

 

I then took the clockspring inside where I could more easily test for continuity. The connectors are so small that I couldn't fit the probes on my voltmeter into them, so I grabbed a paperclip, cut in in half, and stuck one piece into one of the holes on the yellow connector, and the other paperclip piece into the other hole in the yellow connector. I then tested for continuity. Sure enough, I got a tone. OK. That should be working. Then I repeated this process for the orange connector, and it too toned out fine. So then I thought, why not turn the clockspring a little, wiggle the wires a bit, and over shake the clockspring. When I did this while testing the orange plug, I got a solid tone the entire time. When I went back to test the yellow one, I kept getting "breaks" in the tone. I went back to the orange, and again, no matter what I did, I got a solid (good) tone the entire time. Back to the yellow again, and sure enough just a light "shake" of the clockspring, or just the right light bump on it or the wires even, and I would lose continuity (the tone would sputter).

 

I then had my wife hold the voltmeter to the paperclips just to be ABSOLUTELY sure, so that they could be secured even better, but I got the same result. Good continuity on the orange side, but slight "fluttering" of the tone.

 

Sounds like a bad clockspring to me. I did mess around a little more just to make sure that it wasn't an easily repairable wire, but really don't think that it is a bad wire as the only time that I could get teh wire to cause an issue as mentioned above, was when I REALLY wiggled it, which also would in turn slightly move the clockspring itself.

 

So I ordered another one tonight. $85 for a new one and it won't be here for another week. Bummer. I really hope that this fixes the problem. We still aren't sure what to do with the car... Keep it for our youngest (17 years old) or sell it and have her continue to do without. The hood needs replaced badly due to hail damage last summer (which is part of our dilemma). Last year, insurance totaled out the car due to the hail damage, but since it was totally cosmetic and the car drove great, they suggested that we "buy it back" from them. The car maintained a clean title, but since they were going to pay out 75% of the car's value, we would only be able to have liability coverage on it. This is also what put us into the current predicament. Earlier this spring, someone ran a red light and my oldest t-boned them. There were witnesses and everything, but the other driver didn't have insurance, so since we had only liability, we got screwed on the deal and ended up having to pay out of our own pocket to repair the car. Not a huge deal if we had enough time to do the repairs and get the car back to her, but she needed transportation, so a different car was already purchased with that same insurance money from last summer (plus some other out-of-pocket money). All we needed to do was keep the car accident free until June 6, 2016 and it would have transferred over to a different car policy (as she is getting married on the 4th). Our insurance guy said that it was completely legal to do so, just like selling it would allow the next owner to insure it since the title is clean, etc.

 

So now, we could keep a really mechanically great car, replace the massively hail damaged hood, have a really nice looking car too, but never be able to have full coverage on it, or we could sell it, recoup my expenses, pocked a few bucks, and move on but not have the extra car to drive and just hope that whatever we do find at some point is as solid of a driver as this car.

 

Anyway, that is my long story about why I was doing the repairs myself. Either way, before I put another dollar into the car, I want the airbag system working. That needs to happen no matter what we do with it. Then maybe I will drop the couple hundred $$ on a new hood, paint it and mount it and have a car with just some minor hail damage elsewhere, but still looking and driving really nicely for a 10 year old car.

 

THEN I can focus on our 2013 Fusion that we just got. LOL Stupid thing thinks that it only has a 14 gallon or so gas tank (there was a TSB on this, but we are out of warranty on the car, so I don't think that I want to pay for the repair), and it has the "hard shift from 2nd to 3rd" problem that a $65 reprogram (another TSB) didn't fix. We've had the car for just over a month is all and didn't notice these things when we bought it. Again, another car for another day.

[WWWPerfA_ZN0W]

Lots of fragile wiring in cars nowadays. Reminds me of the good old MAF sensors Hope the clockspring is the fix.

 

I wouldn't let an inexperienced driver into a car that has only liability coverage, that's for sure. Then you also have to take into account the relative safety of the drive cycle any driver will face. Do people mind their driving a good part of the time, or is it always hectic?

 

It's great though that you can do the repairs yourself, that's no mean feat.

 

The FSM indicates worn clutches as possible culprits for the harsh 2-3 shift. Might be though that a 3x drain & fill of the ATF fluid is just what the doctor ordered.

[nickbuol]

Yeah, my 17 year old drives more like me (a touch fast, but otherwise well) vs. my 22 year old that has been in many accidents, totaled 4 cars, etc. So I guess it is a different perspective. LOL Our 17 year old would just be driving to and from school (about 5 minutes away) and work (about 10 minutes away) and that it about it, but yeah, I would feel better with collision insurance coverage too, but it can be a challenge to find a mechanically reliable care in the price range that we *might* be able to get out of this 2006 Fusion.

 

As for the 2013 Fusion, I was wondering the same thing. Not used to having to do transmission drain/fill x3 on a car with relatively low miles, but I was starting to think that it might be in order. Unfortunately, there is no dipstick on these models, and getting the car jacked up level on all 4 corners to follow the drill/fill procedure seems like a hassle so I may just take it to the dealership and pay their quoted $200. They said that covers "about 18 quarts of fluid" so I am not sure if that is 2 or 3 drain/fills, but since they have a lift it is a lot faster for them.

[WWWPerfA_ZN0W]

This whole no-dipstick craze, ugh! If you are going to fork over that much dough, you should just get a BG service done on the trans, well worth the money and better protection than OEM. Is it AWD or FWD, btw? BG shops that perform driveline service can service the PTU and RDU also when it comes time. I was quoted $180 for both units by a local, trusted shop.

http://bgfindashop.com

[nickbuol]

The 2013 is a FWD Titanium. Never heard of BG Service. There is a place about 15 minutes from home that does a transmission service. The 2 choices around here are either a Tuffy auto center or a dealership per the BG website.

[WWWPerfA_ZN0W]

BG's in the biz for a long time, one of the best.

 

Try the Tuffy's here:

 

2160 Edgewood Road Suite #200
Cedar Rapids, IA 52404

Phone number(319) 654-8405

 

Decent reviews, a bit old:

http://www.yelp.com/biz/tuffy-tire-and-auto-service-center-cedar-rapids-2

[akirby]

They said that covers "about 18 quarts of fluid" so I am not sure if that is 2 or 3 drain/fills, but since they have a lift it is a lot faster for them.

 

They probably use the cooler lines to suck out the old fluid and introduce fresh fluid. This changes 95%+ of the fluid including inside the torque converter using the built-in pump. You don't need to drop the pan and it takes less fluid.

[nickbuol]

For the BG Transmission Service, I see mixed things online about it (not talking about the "to flush or not to flush" argument). Does this actually replace the fluid, or is the machine just filtering it and putting in additives?

[WWWPerfA_ZN0W]

Complete fluid replacement with chemical "scrubbing". They recommend it every 30,000 miles. Start with a D&F if you want to err on the side of caution.

 

If the fluid is burnt or really dark/browned (hard to tell with Mercon LV, check out FordTechMakuloco's video on his channel) or there are metal particles in there when you check the fluid, then a drain & fill is best. Avoid flushes unless fluid is in good condition with no debris/sediment. To reiterate, always let the servicer know your concern, that a drain & fill is preferred if fluid condition is doubtful.

 

https://www.bgprod.com/services/transmission/

https://www.bgprod.com/catalog/transmission/

 

Transmission

 

Some say transmissions are only good for a certain number of miles, depending on the vehicle. At BG, we know it doesn’t have to be that way.

 

Inadequate fluid protection is the number one cause for premature transmission failure. Regular maintenance with the BG Transmission Service can prevent your transmission from sticking, shuddering and even failing!

The service takes just 30 minutes every 30,000 miles (50,000 km). It’s worth it to keep one of the hardest working components of your vehicle shifting smoothly and effortlessly for many more trouble-free miles than you ever expected!

Features:

• Dissolves and suspends deposits
• Rids all old fluid and suspended debris
• Installs new automatic transmission fluid
• Fortifies new fluid with seal conditioners, oxidation inhibitors and shift improvers

Benefits:

• Prevents deposit formation
• Restores transmission performance
• Prolongs transmission life

Edited May 17, 2016 by WWWPerfA_ZN0W

[akirby]

I would be careful about a "chemical scrub" - just use the machine to replace the old fluid with new fluid.

[nickbuol]

I set up an appointment for tomorrow afternoon for the BG Transmission Service just to "reserve" the machine if it is needed, but they are going to make an assessment once I take it to them.

 

The BG service if started before a transmission hits 36,000 miles, and then every 30,000, and it is covered by some $4000 transmission warranty (not sure how good that actually is), but I just thought I would mention it for anyone else that stumbles across this topic.

Oh, price was $160 (plus tax) for the BG flush, dealership wants $200 (plus tax) for a drain/fill x2. Again, just mentioning it for future reference.

[WWWPerfA_ZN0W]

Cool deal! Best of luck, def update (with pics if possible) your experience.

[nickbuol]

OK. So some updates.

 

Yesterday I took the 2013 Fusion Titanium in to get the BG Transmission service. Took them a solid 90 minutes to get it done (I felt like they were a little short staffed, but it wasn't like there were cars lined up either). Found out that the transmission warranty is $2000, where all other BG services are $4000 (just for note for anyone else that stumbles into this thread). The guy said the transmission fluid was pretty much black and very dirty.

 

I left hoping that this would assist with smoothing out the hard shift from 2nd to 3rd, but it didn't really change the way anything behaved. Service needed to be done, but that hard shift is annoying (it basically stays in 2nd gear to a higher RPM than other gears, and then when it shifts to 3rd it drops down to a slightly lower RPM, thus making the difference in RPM a bit more drastic. Others reported this online elsewhere, so I know that I am not alone, but there didn't seem to be a fix for it and I am nervous about potential future issues. It actually shifts harder when being "gentle" and not driving like a mad-man if that matters. As already mentioned, I paid $60 for some reprogramming from some TSB that was supposed to help with that, but it didn't change anything either.

 

Now for the 2006 Fusion SEL. The new clockspring came today, I put it in, and hoped for the best. Well.... Crap. Still getting an airbag light. My daughter has my other car that actually has the OBDII scanner tool in it, so I couldn't check for any new code, but it hasn't had any codes since I started putting the airbag system back together weeks ago. Ugh. So it now has a rebuilt seatbelt, replacement airbag, had the RCM module reset, placed the front impact sensor, and now replaced the clockspring. All that is left is just wiring as far as I can tell, and with no codes from the car, I have no idea where to even go from here.

 

Makes me want to pull my hair out.

[akirby]

Have you tried replacing the battery? A weak (but still functioning) battery is a common cause for the airbag light.

[nickbuol]

How about a battery test? Will that somehow indicate it being below some threshold that doesn't cause any other issues, but somehow is "too low" for the Fusion and kicks the Airbag light?

 

Also, I never was able to find out if that battery issue caused the airbag light to come on instantly, or if it is delayed a little bit.

 

For the 2006 Fusion SEL that we have, it is still the "all dash lights on" while starting, then they all go off, and then about 4 seconds or so after everything goes off, the airbag light comes back on.

[nickbuol]

OK. So my daughter finally got home. I put the OBDII tester and it of course came back with a P1000 because I had the battery disconnected. I waited a couple of minutes while it was running and did the scan again. Still had the P1000 (which again is normal and expected until the car is driven a bit), but then it also spit out a B1318 "Low battery voltage at Module" but I couldn't tell if it was a current code or an old stored code. I grabbed the voltmeter and, with the car running, measured the voltage at the battery terminals. I got back 13.92V with the car running.

 

Anyway, off to bed. It is after midnight and I was up at 5:45am making it a long day and I have to be up at 5:45am again in the morning. There is an Advance Auto Parts literally 3 minutes from my house, so maybe a battery/alternator test is in order.

 

The other interesting thing that I don't know if it is normal or not is that the seatbelt light comes on during the starting of the car and stays on for several seconds, honestly I don't know exactly how long as I was watching my OBDII tool, the airbag light, etc, but it was on for a little bit (because I didn't have the seatbelt on as I was just sitting in my driveway, but anyway it comes on for a bit, and then it turns off (opposite of the airbag light, LOL, but just different lengths of time)

 

Anyway, now I am wondering about everything that it could possibly be.

[WWWPerfA_ZN0W]

Reset the codes and see what shows up after a drive cycle is complete. The hope is that the wiring & connectors are intact from one end to the other.

 

The best way to test the battery is with a device like the Solar BA5, which will prove out that the battery is indeed good for the load it is rated for. Many times batteries will "pass" the voltage test, but not the load test. It will also test out the alternator.

 

How old is the battery? 3 years is usually the longest life of a good battery in a modern vehicle nowadays, longer if you get an AGM battery. The 13.92V was at idle, correct? What voltage do you get with the engine revved to 2,500 rpm (2.3L), 2,000 rpm (3.0L)? Should be closer to 14.5V. With everything turned off, engine off, etc. battery voltage should be around 12.6V.

 

As far as the trans service on the 2013: it may take a while to feel the effects of the new fluid, if the old fluid was indeed in such bad shape. The detergents will continue to clean out gunk causing solenoids/valve body to stick, for example. I assume there was no particulate matter in the old fluid though? Did they show it to you?

2006 Fusion B1318 Pinpoint Test A & Component Tests.pdf

[akirby]

Just spend the $100 and replace the battery. From what I remember that is the same behavior I got with the airbag light. It's got enough juice to start the vehicle but not enough to make the airbag module happy especially on cold starts.

 

In any event it won't hurt to have a fresh battery for the next 3-4 years without worrying about it.

 

A lot of batteries are testing ok but really aren't.

 

Edited May 20, 2016 by akirby

[nickbuol]

Yeah, I don't have a BA5. 13.92 was at idle after the car was running for about 3 minutes is all. Never tried it while revving the engine and I never checked it with everything off. I unfortunately didn't see these responses until I got to work and the 2006 Fusion is with my wife this morning.

 

As for the 2013, I asked if everything came out OK and if there was anything else besides it being really black, and they said "Nope. Looked good otherwise." Typical shop policy of not letting people into the work area, so I didn't press it from there.

 

Now to answer both your questions about age of the battery, honestly I don't know. We literally had this car for about 10 months is all. I will examine it to see if there is any indicator of age on it, as well as run it to Advance Auto tonight. I would assume that their testing equipment can check the amps of the battery.

 

Now I am off to look up what an appropriately "sized" battery is for this vehicle. I hate when you go to a place and they say "I would recommend this or this" but in actuality they are either a bit low in amps or really expensive. I have to do my homework before I "settle" for what they happen to have on hand in case that is the case.

 

Happy Friday to you both, and thank you for sticking in there with me on this.