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Dead Battery - Narrowing down the cause.


head4trauma
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Hello, (New here and was hoping it would be more than a week before my first issue)

 

Hopefully it's something I overlooked, but my battery was dead this evening. 2016 Fusion SE. It's very possible I overlooked something, but would rather figure it out either way since my car is new with less than 80 miles on it.

 

I had parked in the driveway after work around 6:00 AM Sunday morning. I did fiddle with a few things, but can't think of anything that may have drained the battery that doesn't automatically turn itself off. I do have remote start, which I was testing out. The only thing I could think of was activating it without actually starting the engine. I briefly noticed the display had a message about "power saving", but it was while closing the door. I was busy at the time so I figured it wasn't important and forgot all about it.

 

I wouldn't surprise me a bit if it was something I did. But so far, I can't figure out exactly WHY the battery was dead.

 

Defective batteries do exist. And of course I have a warranty. But I'd rather know why, especially if I managed to cause it. I had to jump it, and there are no other issues at all. I just don't want to be stuck somewhere with a dead battery.

 

And if it's a warranty issue, I'll need to take care of it ASAP.

 

Thanks in advance.

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These cars have a battery saver feature so even if you did do something, chances are the system would have shut it down. Did you, by any chance, leave a cell phone or some power draining accessory plugged in? The 12V power points stay "hot."

 

Was the car on the dealer's lot for a long time?

 

And yes, there are bad batteries.

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Thanks for the replies.

 

I had nothing plugged in. I'm paranoid about that one. I just tried it, started right up. I sent an email to the dealer and they couldn't think of a cause. But if it happens again, I'll take it in.

 

A dead battery was the last thing I expected from a new car.

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Update: Apparently a fluke. I've not had an issue since. Not even a minor question of reliability. So I can only guess it was something I did.

 

I work nights, and typically it's dark when I leave work this time of year, then the sun is coming up when I get home. I was messing with some of the settings, and I'm pretty sure I did something and didn't notice it.

 

The dealer said if there is an issue at all, just give him a call and take in the car to figure it out. Assuming it's not just a battery that needs replaced.

 

I did a Vehicle Health Report as well. Let's just say I wish MY health reports were so good.

 

Thanks again for the input.

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  • 2 months later...

Sort of an update, but wanted to get some input.

 

So far, I've had three jump starts. The last time I needed to use the manual key just to get in and pop the hood. Irritated to say the least.

 

Especially at EXACTLY 1,181 miles... yes...........1,181

So I have an appointment tomorrow. Me and engines? Phhhttt...not friends. Me and anything electronic is a totally different story.

 

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B9dDsJJt5bFUMlBldE9ZSzNrOXM/view?usp=sharing

 

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B9dDsJJt5bFUVElqLU9TSHhYVG8/view?usp=sharing

 

I do not have intelligent access

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So there has been a problem of defective stock batteries, esp lead acid as we all get.

 

It does not matter if you have intelligent access or not, there is ALWAYS a drain on these cars the manual even states if you plan to leave the car for more than a couple weeks (IMO you should do it even if its for a week) it should be put on a trickle charge.

 

The other things to keep in mind is that the car needs to be running for a certain amount of time at a certain RPM to generate enough voltage to both charge the battery and run the car. If you take a lot of shorter trips and then let the car sit for some time then you are likely not keeping up with the battery's discharge to begin with. Add in the fact that it is a lead acid which really HATES being drawn down like that and you have a recipe for some unhappiness.

 

With your mileage I assume the car is not driven that often. I would bitch at the dealer and see if they will split the difference on a motorgraft AGM style battery and get a charger. Anytime you plan to let the car sit for a few days just put it on the charger. If you commute daily but have a very short commute put the car on a charger once a week for few hours and you should be fine.

You may also want to get a datalogger or a voltage meter that works with your outlets so you can see how much power you are making. You need to make 14-14.5 volts to charge and run the car at the same time. During city driving you might drop as low as 12.8.

Edited by MightBeASynth
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As stated above, could just be a bad battery and/or short trips. Using remote start over and over without letting it run would be even worse than short trips. Let the dealer sort it out - could also be a bad sensor keeping it from going to sleep and running down the battery even faster.

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Yes, there is a drain no matter what....but, the manual also specifically states the two are NOT interchangleble. I'm not bitching about the car, but the dealer. Period. Wrong battery means, is a wrong battery.

 

I had it checked....40% charge, completely healthy. I live in a very small town. Drive every day. Commute maybe 16 miles. When it died after 6 hours.....I really got concerned.

 

My thing, two months ago, obviously the dealer missed and I'm relieved. VERY relieved. Passing up my street to drive more?, love this car.

 

The dealer obviously didn't catch it.......but I was passing on I figured it out. If not, I'll let you know that too.,

 

per manual:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B9dDsJJt5bFUcnpjN1d3bmZVRGM/view?usp=sharing

 

ditto:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B9dDsJJt5bFUUmRSTUM5M082dXc/view?usp=sharing

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Basically, the car should have a 500, it has a 590......more than likely the difference in configuration messes with the onboard diagnostics sending false positives. I've got nothing but green health reports back when I've run them.

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Batteries are interchangeable, its just the as-built data that needs to change to ensure a full charge and correct monitoring. That said I put in an XSPower D4700 and still have yet to update my as-built, might not be getting fully charged (it seems to be based on logs and testers) but works great.

Edited by MightBeASynth
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You said you had it checked - ask the person who checked it if they used a newer type of tester or get it retested somewhere that has one.

I watched them do it.

 

Click the links up there. The pics. I have a 2016....2 months old......not even 1,200 miles.............there is no reason for 3 dead batteries in that amount of time. Period.

 

But we did figure it out.

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Should not need to update as-built data for an increase in CCAs. The Battery Management System does typically need to be reset every time a new battery is plugged in so it knows to "learn" the new battery.

 

The first battery on the car, I can understand it dying, if it was built almost a year ago and sat on the dealer lot, for example. What is the build date for your Taurus? you can check it out with the VIN at

https://www.etis.ford.com

Basically, the car should have a 500, it has a 590......more than likely the difference in configuration messes with the onboard diagnostics sending false positives. I've got nothing but green health reports back when I've run them.

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Should not need to update as-built data for an increase in CCAs. The Battery Management System does typically need to be reset every time a new battery is plugged in so it knows to "learn" the new battery.

 

The first battery on the car, I can understand it dying, if it was built almost a year ago and sat on the dealer lot, for example. What is the build date for your Taurus? you can check it out with the VIN at

https://www.etis.ford.com

Well, it's a Fusion. I checked the VIN awhile back. It was in Oct of 15.

 

Everything is perfectly fine now. Not exactly sure, but it turned out to be the battery and a module in combination. Replaced...done. In fact, I was wondering why some things stayed on beforehand.....but a brand new car with 80 miles at the time, and no being familiar, thought it was normal for the car. Nope.

 

After 45 minutes at the dealership, it was done, no issues so far.

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I'm not even sure. I know computers, but not cars, that well. But that's the area that is fuzzy for me. I didn't hear it mentioned. I'll see if I can find out though.

 

No issues at all now. Power was being bled from recharging the battery.

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