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Engine stutters, stalls.


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Hi Team,

 

I own a Ford fusion 2014 SE 1.5 Ecoboost with 79K miles on it. Recently, I experience stuttering issues.

 

Initially, the engine turned off on a red signal and on a drive thru, post which during driving it got stuttered. I took the car to the service center and informed them the issue, they kept the vehicle for a whole and told me that they did not receive any engine codes for analysis. They charged me 70$ for diagnosis, they also informed me that when the car stops kindly do not turn the engine off as the codes would disappear. The service engineer also informed that they will not be of much help if there is no code. I am still experiencing the issue which is killing my driving experience. I bought a OBD2 scanner to find the code myself but not getting any codes but in I/M Fuel states not ready and misfire states ready. I seriously don't know what they mean.

 

I am running in circles.

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What is your driving like? Is it city, highway, or a good mix of both? First thing I would check is spark plugs. Sometimes they will go the 100K without issues, sometimes they will not. Too much gap, fouled plugs, cracked insulators, could be anything. If there are no codes, then the engine is not misfiring enough (i.e. past the threshhold) to set a code. That's a good thing in that the situation is not serious ... yet. Use the Motorcraft plugs, they work well. Take pics of the old plugs. Check gap carefully on the new plugs with a feeler gauge (those round discs are not recommended, could damage the delicate center electrode), and don't try to gap the new plugs. Questions, definitely ask first!

 

Bad fuel can also cause similar symptoms. Direct injected engines are very particular about fuel quality, due to the high pressure the fuel is subjected to (think 30-35 times higher than in a port injected engine for example) prior to spraying the combustion chamber. Easy to gum up the injectors, and it can be expensive to replace the injectors if you don't DIY. So in addition to good fuel from a busy station (preferably top tier), I would advise running Techron (or BG 44K) through a couple of tanks worth of fuel.

 

A bad coil can also cause misfiring. Since there are no codes set, it is difficult to know if a coil is the source of the problems. Could be 1 or more. Some parts swapping will need to be done here. You may be able to get a spark plug/coil kit from a dealer for a reasonable cost. Motorcraft highly recommended for coils also. The kit is usually cheaper than buying the parts separately. Coils usually don't go bad on Ford's DI engines that I know of.

 

The "I/M not ready" relates to the emissions monitor status. After the PCM has been reset, or the battery has been changed/ disconnected for a while, the engine needs to complete a certain type of drive cycle (you can check the owner's manual) to be ready for inspection. Was the PCM just reset?

 

There are temporary and permanent codes. Temporary codes will reset with every engine restart. Permanent codes, as implied, will remain. A black box recorder, such as found at dealers, can help nab the temporary codes, not sure if it's easy to do with an OBD scanner/smartphone software DIY setup.

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Get a codescanner/data reader like the OBD MX these can read any codes you have using your phone so you no longer have to pay a "diagnosis" fee for a tech to hook up a computer and spend all of 5mins or less checking for any error codes.

 

You can also use these to determine your fuel quality and monitor other data points to narrow down your issue.

 

Also your dealer is wrong, codes don't disappear from the car unless they are cleared, even if they do not trigger on the dash they should be listed somewhere. You likely threw no codes and got some bad gas. It could also be something simple like an air filter or plugs.

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Thanks guys. I find lot of inputs, let me go on a phased a manner. Will update this thread with inputs once I have them. Also, I believe these base check could have been done by the ford service station before stating "We are not sure where to start with when there is no error code".

 

However thanks for the instructions let me verify.

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

2014 SE ecoboost 1.5L <18k mi., currently at dealership waiting for parts, cam phaser problem suspected on non-torn down engine.

 

Stopped at red light with engine stuttering, tach showing 700-400 RPM. Pulled away at green light after about 100 yds. no throttle response at pedal and decided engine quit, no tach needle visible (digital display). Busy 2-lane nondivided blvd, was in right lane during lunch hour traffic. Turned on flashers, put in neutral and coasted, luckily into a store driveway. Check engine light illuminated. Called Ford emergency # and towed to dealership.

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  • 1 year later...

Did you ever get your stalling issues fixed? This sounds exactly like my car. I replace purge valve and low fuel pressure switch no luck in solving. when it dies i push pedal and it wont do anything no throttle response at all it just feels like miss firing. the thing is that I get no codes. Frustrated!  

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  • 7 months later...

My car is doing the same thing. I have a 2015 1.5 L ecoboost with 46k miles.. I can first get in my car in the morning and drive several miles, over 60 this time and drove like a dream. When I stop at a place and go inside like a store and then return and try to leave, it starts stuttering and stalling.. I have to go through about 6-8 stalls and restarts before I can get going again... I took it to the Ford dealer ship and of course it never stalled on them once.. It never threw a code or an alarm. I love this little car, but my love is slowly turning into anger, cause I have beautiful black paper weight setting outside my house.. Can someone that has had the same crap happen to them tell me what to fix.. I've had the whole fuel system flushed and cleaned. I've even tried higher octane gas but that doesn't help either... I was gonna replace the low fuel pressure sensor next, but I just read that HDrider09 has tried that with no luck.. I'm all ears if someone has a fix..

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  • 1 month later...

Please allow me to join in the problem. '16 with 1.5 Eco has 30k. miles. It's happened about 4 times, that after driving a short distance, pull up to a stop, and the car dies. Fires right back up. Idles rougher than it should, but not unbearable. Fuel mileage has dropped 1.5 - 2 mpg. No codes. Dealership says they can't help. Says possible purge valve problem, but won't replace without code. Today, for the first time, filled the car, added a bottle of fuel system treatment (hoping that might help) car wouldn't start for over 15 minutes. Didn't use the required "Fusion Funnel" that it states should be used in the owners manual. Getting frustrated.

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What’s up fusion peeps: Ok I posted on January 16th about my car stalling and shuddering and dying. I did say I’ve totally flushed and cleaned the fuel system out. Still didn’t help. I had heard you can change out the low pressure fuel sensor and it might help. Well I’m here to tell you it didn’t help mine. My car is still stalling and dying. I’ve recently emailed ford corporate about this situation. It’s gotta be a recall or something. This is bullshit. I’ve just been lucky and not been on a busy freeway or interstate when this shit hits. Of course I haven’t heard back from anybody. And if your vehicle doesn’t throw codes or alarms the Ford dealership won’t do shit for it. They won’t even look for a problem. I’m to the point that I’m done with Ford products. If this the customer service I get from buying their product then screw them. And I’ve bought ford vehicles all my life. So my next move is if I can’t get this nightmare fixed, I’ll be trading this lemon off. And not for another ford. I’m still up for suggestions if anybody has any. The only thing I know next is to drop the gas tank and change out the fuel filter. But that’s major bucks when the dealership charges $250 an hour for labor. 

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Hi Bob.  In your first post you stated, "I can first get in my car in the morning and drive several miles, over 60 this time and drove like a dream. When I stop at a place and go inside like a store and then return and try to leave, it starts stuttering and stalling.. I have to go through about 6-8 stalls and restarts before I can get going again..."

 

So here is what I would recommend: One morning, drive it to your Ford Dealer the way you would if you were going to your first stop at a store on a regular morning, like you describe above. Turn off the car as you would on an normal stop. Go into the Service Department and have one of the Service writers come out with you to watch you try to start the car, after the same approximate amount of wait time on any other morning, so they can witness the car not start.

 

Since it seems to happen after a particular type of drive cycle, replicate that drive cycle by taking it to the Dealer as your first stop in the morning . That may be your best way to replicate the issue so they can witness it.

 

That would be my best advice. Let us know how you make out and good luck.

Edited by bbf2530
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  • 1 month later...

Mine is a 2014 2 liter turbo that has been running perfectly for 3+ years (bought used as a CPO) - now, sometimes when taking off it stumbles and stops - but only sometimes - and then starts right up. Runs fine otherwise. 

When it did the first time, check engine light came on -  I went to O'Reilly's auto parts as they will use their scanner for free. Code was something like 'low fuel rail pressure'. Put in a can of Techron and filled it up - ran fine but still stumbles and conks out occasionally but no check engine light. 

Dealer thinks it's the fuel pump ($600) but those symptoms are not these (accelerates well, mileage is good and runs fine on the highway). 

 

So, what do you think??

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  • 9 months later...
On 2/17/2019 at 9:13 PM, Bob Ryan said:

What’s up fusion peeps: Ok I posted on January 16th about my car stalling and shuddering and dying. I did say I’ve totally flushed and cleaned the fuel system out. Still didn’t help. I had heard you can change out the low pressure fuel sensor and it might help. Well I’m here to tell you it didn’t help mine. My car is still stalling and dying. I’ve recently emailed ford corporate about this situation. It’s gotta be a recall or something. This is bullshit. I’ve just been lucky and not been on a busy freeway or interstate when this shit hits. Of course I haven’t heard back from anybody. And if your vehicle doesn’t throw codes or alarms the Ford dealership won’t do shit for it. They won’t even look for a problem. I’m to the point that I’m done with Ford products. If this the customer service I get from buying their product then screw them. And I’ve bought ford vehicles all my life. So my next move is if I can’t get this nightmare fixed, I’ll be trading this lemon off. And not for another ford. I’m still up for suggestions if anybody has any. The only thing I know next is to drop the gas tank and change out the fuel filter. But that’s major bucks when the dealership charges $250 an hour for labor. 

2015 fusion driver here and having the same issues, Bob. I took into a Ford shop, it was diagnosed as a high pressure fuel pump issue. I am getting it replaced with fingers crossed this will be the solution. Will report back.

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  • 6 months later...
  • 3 years later...

2019 Ford Fusion SEL 102K miles on it and im getting the same thing Cylinder 3 misfire from the autozone scanner. Im afraid im part fo the recall group but car is to far past the 84K mile mark. What do I do ? 

Forgot to mention but im upside down on the loan , and may potentially try and trade it in...for the love of god please help. 

Edited by rageftw
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13 hours ago, rageftw said:

2019 Ford Fusion SEL 102K miles on it and im getting the same thing Cylinder 3 misfire from the autozone scanner. Im afraid im part fo the recall group but car is to far past the 84K mile mark. What do I do ? 

Forgot to mention but im upside down on the loan , and may potentially try and trade it in...for the love of god please help. 

If you're upside down in a loan this is a bad time in history to try and flip it to another car.  Banks are very skittish right now, you'll likely end up with a much higher interest rate too.  Things to consider.

 

As for the car, you need someone to have a scan tool that can read/show live date and see what is going on.  Fuel pressure is critical in a direct injection engine.  Could even be as simply as a new coil and some plugs.  Try swapping #3 coil to another cylinder and see if the misfire follows it.  Don't throw a whole bunch of parts at it in desperation.  Try to find a good independent shop that has the ability to do advanced troubleshooting.

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