2017 ford fusion SE Premium Audio System with 11 speakers Specs

[sleasyridr]

I just bought a 2017 ford fusion SE with the Premium Audio System with 11 speakers ( This is listed as new to the 2017 models). I am not thrilled with the quality of the sound and I have been unable to find any real specs on the system to help me determine the best way to improve the sound quality. The sound is tinny and distorted even when playing high quality FLAC files from a thumb drive. Here are a few of the questions I have and if anyone can answer them or point me to a link with the specs I would appreciate it.

1. Does anyone else have issues with the sound quality of this system?

2. What is the make and model of the head unit (radio/cdplayer)?

3. What are the specs of the head unit?

4. What is the make and model of the amplifier?

5. What are the specs of the amplifier?

6. Where is the amplifier located?

7. What brand are the speakers and what are their specs?

8. Where are the 11 speakers located?

9. Any suggestions on the first and cheapest place to start to try to improve the quality of the sound? (it looks like on the older models swapping out the CT4T18B849AF amplifier with the older CT4T18B849AA amplifier helped.

 

Any help would be appreciated and if anyone can answer all 9 questions I would bow gracefully and say "i'm not worthy"

 

[timwil56]

I can only accurately answer #1 and will guess that the amp is located somewhere in the trunk. I'm not an audiophile and just play that good old R&R from my ipod Touch and iPod Nano. I did find that I had more audio and playability issues on the MyFord Touch system when I tried to use a thumb drive. I have not had any issues and find it adequately suits my needs. I get acceptable sound from it with the fade adjusted slightly forward and to the right and the bass at +2, mid at +3 and treble at +1.

Edited October 18, 2016 by timwil56

[sleasyridr]

I can only accurately answer #1 and will guess that the amp is located somewhere in the trunk. I'm not an audiophile and just play that good old R&R from my ipod Touch and iPod Nano. I did find that I had more audio and playability issues on the MyFord Touch system when I tried to use a thumb drive. I have not had any issues and find it adequately suits my needs. I get acceptable sound from it with the fade adjusted slightly forward and to the right and the bass at +2, mid at +3 and treble at +1.

Thanks for the info. I am a classic rock kinda guy too. I tried a CD for the first time and it sounded a little better but still would get some distortion at higher volumns. So a couple of questions for you.

1. Using a thumb drive what format and bit rate are the files you are playing?

2. When you play from you iPod is it a wired connection?

3. Does you iPod have music player have equalization controls?

 

I am hoping one of the Ford Moderators will chime in on some of the technical stuff.

 

Thanks!!!

3. Does

[akirby]

We're moderators, not audiophiles. Most of those specs are not published. The 11 speakers are typically 2 in each door (they count 2-way speakers as 2 separate speakers), 2 in the rear shelf and one in the middle top dash.

 

A factory audio CD would be the best test. I use 256kbps mp3s in both my Sony system (2013 Fusion) and our 2016 MKX with the Revel audio system and they sound pretty good to me.

 

Check the bass, treble, fader and DSP settings.

[sleasyridr]

We're moderators, not audiophiles. Most of those specs are not published. The 11 speakers are typically 2 in each door (they count 2-way speakers as 2 separate speakers), 2 in the rear shelf and one in the middle top dash.

 

A factory audio CD would be the best test. I use 256kbps mp3s in both my Sony system (2013 Fusion) and our 2016 MKX with the Revel audio system and they sound pretty good to me.

 

Check the bass, treble, fader and DSP settings.

Thanks for the information and your suggestions. But this still leaves me with lots of questions. I hope you can help.

1. I do not have the Sony system I have the Premium Audio System with 11 speakers ( This is listed as new to the 2017 models). I suspect that this is just the basic stereo with extra speakers added. Without any spec available I cannot verify this. So I am not sure that it can be compared in sound quality with the Sony system that you have.

2. I did test it with a factory CD (the Beatles White Album as well as with 320 bps mp3 files and flac files up to 1499bps and 24 bit. Although the CD did sound the best it still was distorted and and tinny sounding after making adjustments to the bass treble and mid-range settings.

3. On this forum there are a lot of comments about the Sony system and I do not know if the amplifier is the same in my system. It would seem that I should be able to find out which model of amplifier is in my vehicle. Here is the link to the other forum and one post that I found interesting.

http://www.fordescape.org/forum/electronics-audio-lighting/10306-disappointed-sony-audio-3.html

"Hey! Big news discovered by the ford Focus guys on the various Focus ST forums: by swapping out the factory amp with another factory amp, the sound system is suddenly the system we SHOULD have received when we bought the car!

It appears that starting in 2013, Ford lowered the amplifier output intentionally. Possibly due to speaker damage.

 

The ford focus uses the SAME sony audio system. The amplifiers have the same model numbers, but the revision numbers differ.

 

The focus guys are saying that swapping out the factory amp with another factory amp with part number CT4T-18B849-AA, volume effectively doubles, and sound is otherwise enhanced. The amp that came in my 2014 escape is CT4T-18B849-AF.

 

This is huge."

 

4. Are you aware of this amplifier swap/issue and can you tell me where the amplifier is located in my vehicle so I can check it myself if there are no specs anywhere to be found?

 

Thanks again for any information or personal opinions you may have.

[akirby]

It appears that is just the normal base stereo with extra speakers - hard to tell for sure. It might have an external amp. Probably too new for crutchfield to have details on it but you could check (try adding an amp and see what it says about compatibility/instructions).

 

Replacing the front door speakers will help a lot. Do you have separate tweeters near the side mirrors or just a 2 way speaker at the bottom of the door? You can go with 5.25" or 6.5" component speakers either way. Replacing the front doors and rear shelf speakers will give you the most bang for the buck.

[sleasyridr]

It appears that is just the normal base stereo with extra speakers - hard to tell for sure. It might have an external amp. Probably too new for crutchfield to have details on it but you could check (try adding an amp and see what it says about compatibility/instructions).

 

Replacing the front door speakers will help a lot. Do you have separate tweeters near the side mirrors or just a 2 way speaker at the bottom of the door? You can go with 5.25" or 6.5" component speakers either way. Replacing the front doors and rear shelf speakers will give you the most bang for the buck.

Thanks for the quick response. Unfortunately I already did call Crutchfield and they do not have any details on the 2017. I would think somebody at Ford could tell me at least if it has a separate amplifier. I will try calling Ford directly to see if I can get any information from them. I may also try my local car audio shop to see what they know. I have not gone out to verify the side mirror tweeters but think it does have them.

Overall love my new car but since I listen to a lot of music I am hoping to just get a little improvement for the least amount of work and money.

[akirby]

Call Benny at Levittown Ford online parts sales and see if he can check the parts catalog for a separate amplifier. You can also try fordparts.com or other online parts inventories but they may not have the 2017 parts yet.

[sleasyridr]

Thanks for the quick response. Unfortunately I already did call Crutchfield and they do not have any details on the 2017. I would think somebody at Ford could tell me at least if it has a separate amplifier. I will try calling Ford directly to see if I can get any information from them. I may also try my local car audio shop to see what they know. I have not gone out to verify the side mirror tweeters but think it does have them.

Overall love my new car but since I listen to a lot of music I am hoping to just get a little improvement for the least amount of work and money.

FYI

I did verify that I have the tweeters near the mirrors. I did an online chat with fordowner.com and got some information but they said they would have to have the Subject matter specialist email me for more details. Here is what they told me.

Our resources show that your system is the premium 210 watt audio system with 11 speakers with subwoofer; however, this is the only information available regarding your audio system.

This system is different from the stock system which is only 80 watts and only 6 speakers for the SE model. I'm happy to research more information regarding the subwoofer.

Per the local car audio expert the two rear speakers are the subwoofer.

​Ford could not tell me if it has a separate amplifier although the local car audio experts say it must if it has 11 speakers.

I will have to wait to hear back from the subject matter specialist for more info.

[rcbridge]

I recently purchased a 2017 Fusion with the upgraded stereo, I am also disappointed with the sound quality.

I had a 2012 SEL model with the upgraded system and it was very good. This one not so good.

[2ndNewFordGuy]

I recently took delivery of same. (2017 SE with the "11 speaker premium" audio) and while not exactly wowed I'm not too bothered either. But, I've got pretty bad tinnitus too so my advice may be of less use for those with younger ears. OK THAT SAID, this is how I get the most out mine. Speakers are all still stock for now but that may change. I run almost exclusively 320bit mp3's off the USB. Mode is set for "ALL SEATS" NOT "driver only" (tried that hated it) ALL SEATS MUCH better. EQ: Treble is pinned, (10 of 1-10), bass is "8" and mid range, center mass. (a 5) and, this may be key too, I don't push it. In part because of my tinnitus, but I find keeping the volume between 12 and 15 the sound is pretty lush. Keeping the level at (about) 50% power seems (to my messed up ears), to put the (somewhat modest) speakers in their "sweet-spot". The old audiophile axiom that all amps are in their "sweet-spot " at 50% seems to apply well to this system. For those looking to really "rock the casbah" I think the amp may have it but speaker upgrades might be well advised. (I'd do the REAR DECK AND the front doors) I may do just the rear deck myself, because of the easy access, and 2.) I already have a really nice set of 3-way PIO's. I'd do the front doors too but, I already looked at a YOUTube video and that's too much work for me, and... with my ears, I just can't see caring THAT much.

Clarification, YES  I have tinnitus, but my frequency-range sensitivity is still excellent. I just don't tolerate loud very well.  

Correction: Upon further playing with it, I'm now fine with "DRIVER vs ALL SEATS" setting. DRIVER does require changing the balance and fade. And stop me if I'm wrong, but I swear DRIVER produces a little more bass. 

Edited March 2, 2022 by 2ndNewFordGuy
correction clarification

[2ndNewFordGuy]

@ rcbridge: you had 2012? did something happen to it or is 5 years your normal turn-around? (too rich for my blood) my upgrade was from an '07 Focus. 10 years is good for me. With proper babying I hope to get well more than 10 years out this Fusion.

Edited August 30, 2017 by 2ndNewFordGuy

[gretsch53@reagan.com]

On 10/17/2016 at 7:13 PM, sleasyridr said:

I just bought a 2017 ford fusion SE with the Premium Audio System with 11 speakers ( This is listed as new to the 2017 models). I am not thrilled with the quality of the sound and I have been unable to find any real specs on the system to help me determine the best way to improve the sound quality. The sound is tinny and distorted even when playing high quality FLAC files from a thumb drive. Here are a few of the questions I have and if anyone can answer them or point me to a link with the specs I would appreciate it.

1. Does anyone else have issues with the sound quality of this system?

2. What is the make and model of the head unit (radio/cdplayer)?

3. What are the specs of the head unit?

4. What is the make and model of the amplifier?

5. What are the specs of the amplifier?

6. Where is the amplifier located?

7. What brand are the speakers and what are their specs?

8. Where are the 11 speakers located?

9. Any suggestions on the first and cheapest place to start to try to improve the quality of the sound? (it looks like on the older models swapping out the CT4T18B849AF amplifier with the older CT4T18B849AA amplifier helped.

 

Any help would be appreciated and if anyone can answer all 9 questions I would bow gracefully and say "i'm not worthy"

 

 

[gretsch53@reagan.com]

The 2016 - 2017 Ford Fusion SE factory amp audio system is a nightmare to upgrade. In my 2011 Ford Fusion I only had to replace front door speakers and connect system up to an amplifier. Sounded great!. Not so easy anymore: I have a  2016 Ford Fusion SE. It is the standard factory amp audio system with six component speakers ( 2 in the front door, 2 in the back door, 2 in the back dash) and a non-Sony Amp. My music source is my LG Smartphone using Tidal Streaming Service which plays the highest quality FLAC files. Here is the first major problem! The 8" LCD head unit stereo of all 2016 - 2017 Ford Fusion audio systems have no USB or auxillary input. I had to replace the whole factory dash (climate control and everything) with a replacement dash. Everything works fine but it cost $459 plus installation. Then I installed a Kenwood DVD Hi-Res stereo with USB and auxillary input and replaced front door speakers with Alpine component speakers. I have an AudioQuest Dragonfly black DAC-Preamp with adapter that plugs into my phone via auxillary cord with other end plugged into auxillary input of stereo. If I plan to do anything more I'm at the mercy of the terrible factory amp which is always located in the back passenger side through the trunk. I sent a picture of mine.

Edited November 27, 2019 by gretsch53@reagan.com

[JKieda]

Was there ever a solution to this?  I'm in the same boat but hesitated for not knowing which part to improve on.

[2ndNewFordGuy]

 

Probably way too late for SleazyRidr but it was a good question I'm sure others are still wondering. Without a doubt the most complained about aspect of this era Fusion is this non-branded "Premium Audio System with 11 speakers" which sounds great in the brochure but has been such a sore point to so many. Myself included. With regard to to sleazys original list, forget the amp, as gretsch53@reagan pointed out, basically, forget the amp it's not the problem anyway. The speakers are. and to a lesser extent the chincy 3 band equalizer. So skipping right to question #9,  " Any suggestions on the first and cheapest place to start to try to improve the quality of the sound"?  why yes I do. Factoring in the relative difficulty involved changing any of the speakers, we've all seen the youTube vids that show total dismantling of the door panels or all the trim coming off BOTH SIDES of the back seat to remove the rear deck... very off putting for most folks, some special tools, that pick-thing, a couple broken clips and now there's a rattle....right?   So if you could change at least one pair, the most important 2 without all that..... The rear deck at the most important. Why? they're the sub-woofer you didn't know you had. yup. They LOOK like plain old mid-range 6X9's and the speakers Ford put in there are. BUT the signals being routed TO them are frequency filtered for subwoofers. Put a couple of 6x9's in there with some real low end and you'll hear it. But lets back up to that easy install I implied above. If you take a nice bright LED flashlight, in low ambient lighting, and lay it flat-down on the grill it will light up the inside and you can clearly see, exactly where the "clips" are, (NOT really clips), (see attached pics) and knowing where they are, you can then, take small-med short throw flat-blade screwdriver, wedge it in the clip points, gently prod them up you have to do a little at a time switching back and forth to the nearest neighbors. , but only the 3 easiest to reach are needed before you can grab the grill with your hand and with a wiggle and a tiny flex pull it out. Most of the back 'tabs' will remain in a position such that you can re-seat them pushing the grill back on, and you can re-bend the others to seat and, you get the idea, see pics of what mine looked like after going back on this way.

The first thing you'll notice once you get the speakers out is they're 2 ohm. 2ohm is how Ford got around the need for subwoofer amp. (Ohm is a measure of resistance. Low ohm speakers take less amp to drive.) Finding 2 ohm speakers is a pain. But not impossible. I put some nice 4 ohm's in there, (Going in I didn't know the ones coming out were 2 ohm so for the moment, I went with what I had), and with only ONE changed out I could hear the difference.  everybody's ears and preferences are different.  After extensive DD, these are the best options I found. (edited) (all 6X9), Kicker 40PS692 (2 ohm), JBL GX963, 2.3 ohm,  Remember only subwoofer feqs are going to these speakers. so you won't be getting any mids-or upper freqs, despite the fact these are all full range speakers but that's the price-point-fit-trade off. And 6X9 actual sub-woofers don't exist. (not on AMZ anyway) This is the compromise, some GOOD bassy full-range 2 or 3 way 6X9's. Hey, I'm just telling y'all what MY EARS told me. (and that sleazyridr's "audio expert" told him) ALTERNATIVELY WHAT you can do, maybe, is six-inch round sub-woofers, under the factory grills who's to know? And, fun fact, 2 ohm speakers are slightly more common in sub-woofers. the only catch will be finding at least 2 screw-holes to line up. You'll probably have to drill to get that 2nd one. That's why I went with the 6X9's.  remember do this in low ambient lighting.

 

 

 

this is what they looked like AFTER coming off and going back ontabs easily bent to slip back into place. You can see the back-facing ones came out unchanged and when back in nicely;.

Correction, just in case, be advised, the JBL GTO939's I bought (came today),  the web site had listed as, 2ohm, are in fact 3 ohm. Which I actually am fine with. While they were in the mail, the more I listened to the 4ohm's I had in there, the amount-of, increased "thump" I was getting from the 4ohm had me wondering if, what should have been twice the "presence" of the 2ohm might not have been more than I needed, and the more modest "bump-up" of the 3ohm might not have been a, better for my ears, fit. So then the only remaining "rub" might be physical-fit. The factory cut-outs for the rear-deck 6X9's actually only let the 4ohms in there now, "drop" about 90% in. Far enough, that the nice long screws reached, enough, and the grill could still lay flat. Won't be sure with the GTO's unti I put them in. Which is going to wait until I get the "wiring adapters" coming separately. I'll let you know. BUT EVEN IF I have to get even longer screws and ditch the factory grills, that's fine. the JBL grills look nice enough.

 

UPDATE and, my bad. Just in case anyone is paying attention now or in the future, this is important. I installed the JBL/GTO's today

aaaand, the difference in bass, from these 3ohm GTO's and the 4 ohm Pioneer TS-0690R's I had in there already is slim to none. It's basically the same. Still noticeably better than the factory speakers. But the difference from 4ohm to 3ohm, wasn't worth the labor.

(mmmm-yum, crow!) SO the take away is if you buy 6X9s for this make SURE they're TWO OHM. and have a good bottom end, (like 40hz or lower) Of the speakers I mentioned above only the Kicker 40PS692 (2 ohm), JBL GX963, 2.3 ohm, should still be considered. Ideally you want 2ohm, 6X9 subs if you can find them. I might try 6" ROUND subs next. For whatever reason 2ohm sub woofers are more common.

On the plus side the grills agreed to come-off and go-back on again and still look fine afterwards.

Edited March 2, 2022 by 2ndNewFordGuy
correction clarification & update

[2ndNewFordGuy]

On 10/19/2016 at 11:43 PM, sleasyridr said:

FYI

I did verify that I have the tweeters near the mirrors. I did an online chat with fordowner.com and got some information but they said they would have to have the Subject matter specialist email me for more details. Here is what they told me.

Our resources show that your system is the premium 210 watt audio system with 11 speakers with subwoofer; however, this is the only information available regarding your audio system.

This system is different from the stock system which is only 80 watts and only 6 speakers for the SE model. I'm happy to research more information regarding the subwoofer.

Per the local car audio expert the two rear speakers are the subwoofer.

Ford could not tell me if it has a separate amplifier although the local car audio experts say it must if it has 11 speakers.

I will have to wait to hear back from the subject matter specialist for more info.

I can totally verify that "the two rear speakers are, (intended to serve as), the subwoofer." the only problem is they're not sub-woofer speakers ford put in there. AND for all intents and purposes, 6X9 sub woofers don't exist.

Ford got around the need for a separate amp by making the rear deck speakers 2ohm. (hint) replace them with 2ohm. (or 3ohm, or 2.3ohm, depending how much you want to know they're there) 2ohm will be the loudest, 3ohm somewhat less.

Edited February 18, 2022 by 2ndNewFordGuy
clarification

[2ndNewFordGuy]

So, these happen to be, "RED WOLF Car 4 Door Speaker Wire Harness Connector Replacement for 2000-2014 Ford F150/250 Escape, Mustang, Mercury, 2005-2013 Mazda 3 6..."

They also fit 2017 Fusion.  (no they don't!)

If you search "ford speaker wire adapter" you'll see multiple brands/choices, same connector

UPDATE. There ARE connectors LIKE THESE commonly available. BE ADVISED, THESE AIN'T IT! Very close but no cigar! Make sure the ones you get specify your exact model and year.  Opps.

Edited March 2, 2022 by 2ndNewFordGuy
correction/update

[2ndNewFordGuy]

On 11/26/2021 at 6:28 PM, JKieda said:

Was there ever a solution to this?  I'm in the same boat but hesitated for not knowing which part to improve on.

Yep.

[2ndNewFordGuy]

On 11/28/2019 at 12:10 AM, gretsch53@reagan.com said:

The 2016 - 2017 Ford Fusion SE factory amp audio system is a nightmare to upgrade. In my 2011 Ford Fusion I only had to replace front door speakers and connect system up to an amplifier. Sounded great!. Not so easy anymore: I have a  2016 Ford Fusion SE. It is the standard factory amp audio system with six component speakers ( 2 in the front door, 2 in the back door, 2 in the back dash) and a non-Sony Amp. My music source is my LG Smartphone using Tidal Streaming Service which plays the highest quality FLAC files. Here is the first major problem! The 8" LCD head unit stereo of all 2016 - 2017 Ford Fusion audio systems have no USB or auxillary input. I had to replace the whole factory dash (climate control and everything) with a replacement dash. Everything works fine but it cost $459 plus installation. Then I installed a Kenwood DVD Hi-Res stereo with USB and auxillary input and replaced front door speakers with Alpine component speakers. I have an AudioQuest Dragonfly black DAC-Preamp with adapter that plugs into my phone via auxillary cord with other end plugged into auxillary input of stereo. If I plan to do anything more I'm at the mercy of the terrible factory amp which is always located in the back passenger side through the trunk. I sent a picture of mine.

If this is in your 2016 SE safe to assume it's in my 2017 SE sooo, more crow for me, there IS a separate sub-woofer amp, such as it is... Looking closely at the pic what caught my eye was the vacant row of speaker wire outputs under the ones in use, and, if they're not "vacant" inside the plug, what are they outputting? (frequency-wise/ohm-wise) I know those are the speaker-outs because the colors match the blue&white / Red&White, on the deck speakers.

[2ndNewFordGuy]

On 11/26/2021 at 6:28 PM, JKieda said:

Was there ever a solution to this?  I'm in the same boat but hesitated for not knowing which part to improve on.

more mea-culpa. Turns out 6" round sub woofers don't exist. 6.5" is the smallest. But if the cut-out diameter is under six inch they should fit. I found, CT Sounds TROPO-6.5-D2 They're 2 OR 1ohm, which should come in handy if you're sticking with the factory amp.

Cut-out diameter 5.83", topside diameter, 6.9' which means screw-holes might actually line up

[2ndNewFordGuy]

Turns out, there was a valid technical reason why, the JBL GTO 939's showed to my ears no noticeable bump up from the Pioneer TS-0690r's they replaced.

The 3ohm GTO's SHOULD have sounded "MORE"  than the 4 ohm Pioneers. But they didn't! BECAUSE: Freq response.

The GTO's freq response is 45-21k HZ 45hz on the low side is "meh", just ok for bass. Poor for Sub woofer substitute .

The TS-0690's on the other hand, must have been considerably PRICIER in their day, freq response, 25-32k Hz. 25 is super low for a "full-range" 3X. 25hz IS actually Sub-woofer territory.

SO despite the OHM difference, (25% better in favor of the GTO's) because of the lower, much lower, frequency response the Pioneer's were utilizing more of

the SUB-WOOFER-only freqs being sent to them. Which would, could, explain if the 3 ohm JBL's didn't seem better, or "more".

SO REMINDER,

2 ohm speakers is what Ford had in there (rear deck) so if you're replacing them with 6X9 full-range's, really seek 2ohm. and really seek 35hz as a minimum, ideally lower, for the low end.

OR

2 ohm actual sub-woofers, but they won't be 6X9's. They'll be 6.5" round and fitting them in might be tricky.    - - - - and that's the bottom line - - -             EOM

[Johnnyboy95]

On 3/2/2022 at 8:19 AM, 2ndNewFordGuy said:

Turns out, there was a valid technical reason why, the JBL GTO 939's showed to my ears no noticeable bump up from the Pioneer TS-0690r's they replaced.

The 3ohm GTO's SHOULD have sounded "MORE"  than the 4 ohm Pioneers. But they didn't! BECAUSE: Freq response.

The GTO's freq response is 45-21k HZ 45hz on the low side is "meh", just ok for bass. Poor for Sub woofer substitute .

The TS-0690's on the other hand, must have been considerably PRICIER in their day, freq response, 25-32k Hz. 25 is super low for a "full-range" 3X. 25hz IS actually Sub-woofer territory.

SO despite the OHM difference, (25% better in favor of the GTO's) because of the lower, much lower, frequency response the Pioneer's were utilizing more of

the SUB-WOOFER-only freqs being sent to them. Which would, could, explain if the 3 ohm JBL's didn't seem better, or "more".

SO REMINDER,

2 ohm speakers is what Ford had in there (rear deck) so if you're replacing them with 6X9 full-range's, really seek 2ohm. and really seek 35hz as a minimum, ideally lower, for the low end.

OR

2 ohm actual sub-woofers, but they won't be 6X9's. They'll be 6.5" round and fitting them in might be tricky.    - - - - and that's the bottom line - - -             EOM

Have you tried the 2 ohm kickers that you recommended? And did you find the actual connectors that work? I see the metra 72-5601 is similar to the connector I’m not sure if those will work.

[Johnnyboy95]

Also I found these which may work: https://www.woofersetc.com/c-23-subwoofers/c-179-6x9-subwoofers/hd-690cf-2-cdt-audio-6-x-9-125w-rms-2-ohm-carbon-fiber-subwoofer.html