tmaxx Posted January 9, 2017 Share Posted January 9, 2017 (edited) I have a 2010 Ford Fusion Hybrid. I live in Indiana, so a heater is essentially during the winter months. A few days ago my heater stopped blowing heat. There was a very small amount of heat coming out of the vents even on max setting. I tried swapping out the heater blower relay with the rear defroster relay in the engine compartment relay box. When I swapped the relays, the heater fan started working agan. I then swapped the relays back to the original configuration and the heater was still working so I wasn’t sure what to conclude. I drove the car for a few more days and the heater worked fine. This morning, I started my car for work and the heater turned on momentarily and then nothing except for a very small amount of heat on max setting. I started off to work and about half way into my drive (20minutes), the heater came on full and worked for the remaining drive. So it seems the heater fan is intermittently working. Any ideas on how I could troubleshoot this or what I should look at replacing? It’s going to get very cold here in Indiana soon, so I don’t want to end up losing heat again! Thanks. One other thing that may or may not have anything to do with this is that I periodically can hear liquid gurgling in the dashboard... Edited January 9, 2017 by tmaxx 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eGuru Posted January 10, 2017 Share Posted January 10, 2017 Start by checking the connector and wires for the blower 'resistor' to see if they have over-heated. Next time the blower stops, measure the voltage across the terminals (don't measure wrt ground - go right across the terminals). If the reading is low at the maximum speed setting, measure from the GY wire to ground. A high reading indicates a bad 'resistor' 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmaxx Posted January 10, 2017 Author Share Posted January 10, 2017 Start by checking the connector and wires for the blower 'resistor' to see if they have over-heated. Next time the blower stops, measure the voltage across the terminals (don't measure wrt ground - go right across the terminals). If the reading is low at the maximum speed setting, measure from the GY wire to ground. A high reading indicates a bad 'resistor' I am not sure that I have the blower resistor since I have auto climate control. I think I have a blower control module rather than a resistor. Does this sound correct? 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drolds1 Posted January 10, 2017 Share Posted January 10, 2017 This has been discussed in this topic before. Start here. And yes, there is a resistor. ACC does not eliminate the need for that. It's still a multi-speed blower, ACC or not. It's just a different part from the one used with manual CC. Motorcraft part # 8E5H 19E624 A. The difference is that the latter part has a large heat sink on it while the former does not. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
projecttriton Posted January 18, 2017 Share Posted January 18, 2017 Hey guys, i have a 2012 fusion without auto climite control and its doing the same thing... Itll work some days then itll stop and start back up after u hit a big enough bump... Do u think this is the resistor? 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcroni19 Posted January 29, 2017 Share Posted January 29, 2017 I would advise changing all three parts - The problem is the blower motor uses brass bushings. they wear out and cause the motor to pull more amps, that leads to burning out the wires between the motor and the resistor, which in turn blows the resistor. save yourself the grief and get all three done at the same time. I replaced them separately trying to avoid splicing the wires but in the end I blew two resistors before I stopped resisting....change all three at once. Quick test - reach down and grab the wires to the resistor when the unit is running if they are hot you are in store for a replacement soon...they should not be hot. if they make you want to take your hand off the wires ... have the parts shipped in. If your blower works intermittently have the parts shipped in. parts https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018I7LAW8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OAKY76Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0145AMQ2U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I have used all three of those - I also purchased one resistor from the stealership at $290 - only to have it fail because I didn't correct the issue the first time. whole project is easy to do and takes about 1 hr...unless you're savvy at wiring or have done it previously because you refuse to change all three. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.