wrbrower Posted May 12, 2017 Share Posted May 12, 2017 (edited) I read a post where the Autolamps stayed on during the day after someone installed HID headlights. I know my dash mounted light sensor is working because my dash lights brighten and dim as I go between light and dark ambient light. The post reminded me that the Autolamps turn on when the wipers are turned on. What I expect to find on my car is the white wire is pulled to ground even when the wipers are off. I will try looking deeper into this on my car later. Normal Operation The Smart Junction Box (SJB) sends a 12 volt reference signal on circuit CRW01 (WH) to the wiper motor module in order to monitor the status of the wipers. When the headlamp control switch is in the AUTOLAMP position and the wipers are on, the wiper motor module will pull the voltage reference signal low. After 3 seconds, the SJB will activate the headlamps. In other words: The SJB sends a current limited, 12V signal to the wiper control box. When the wipers go on the wiper control box pulls the white wire to ground. Options: 1) You can either replace the wiper control box (about $100) to restore original functionality but you lose being able to use HIDs. 2)The cheap route would be to clip the white wire, allowing the signal out of the SJB to float back up to 12V and your autolamp function should return - and you can keep your HIDs. However you lose the headlights turning on automatically during the day when the wipers go on. 3) You can replace the wiper control box and put a relay where your headlights would be powered, run +12V BATT through the relay and then power your HIDs with battery power. Note: After thinking deeper into this if someone is having an issue with the autolamps staying on when they should not unplugging C2157 (connector to the wiper control module) temporarily should allow the autolamps to function normally - assuming the light sensor is working properly. Hope this helps someone - this has been driving me nuts for years. Attached are the pictures you can use to verify this scenario. UPDATE: Tasca Ford sells them for under $45 - but with supposedly a $50 core charge??? You can check for yourself: http://www.tascaparts.com/oe-ford/9e5z14b205a Bill Edited May 13, 2017 by wrbrower 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyross Posted May 12, 2017 Share Posted May 12, 2017 How do adding the HID's affect that circuit? Are they bypassing something, or is it about a different load placed on a circuit? 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akirby Posted May 12, 2017 Share Posted May 12, 2017 I don't see how adding HIDs would affect that part of the system unless you cut into or damage the wiring as part of the HID install. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wrbrower Posted May 13, 2017 Author Share Posted May 13, 2017 (edited) It is a known issue. The ballasts start with a power spike to the bulbs to strike an arc. The belief is a spike feeds back through the SJB to the wiper control. After thinking deeper into this if someone is having an issue with the autolamps staying on when they should not unplugging C2157 temporarily should allow the autolamps to function normally - assuming the light sensor is working properly. Edited May 13, 2017 by wrbrower 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eGuru Posted May 13, 2017 Share Posted May 13, 2017 If a 'spark' is feeding back through the SJB, then it could affect other modules also. Obviously, we would need to be careful about the choice of an HID system to make sure that the design includes proper suppression of transient spikes. Seems that the OP's system is not a good choice for us. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akirby Posted May 13, 2017 Share Posted May 13, 2017 Sounds like a good reason to avoid aftermarket hid kits. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thefoeyouknow Posted May 27, 2017 Share Posted May 27, 2017 (edited) Bi-Xenon Hella projector swap with D2S burners, 35w ballasts and Capacitors (4700uF). Only way to do it. I don't have strange electrical problems with my setup, my autolamps don't stick on, nothing. Don't use relay kits, don't use shit-can ballasts, and for God's sake, don't try to put rebased burners in your stock projectors. Now, OP hasn't told us about his setup, I can only assume based on what every OTHER HID problem around here starts out with for a swap setup. If I've misjudged you, please elaborate by detailing your HID layout. Edited June 1, 2017 by thefoeyouknow 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eGuru Posted May 28, 2017 Share Posted May 28, 2017 A quality electronic ballast will minimize issues with surges and spikes and provide reliable bulb ignition. Discrete designs with large inductors/transformers are to be avoided due to the inductive spikes they create. Using large capacitors on the output of the SJB is also undesirable as this causes a large surge current which may damage the FETs. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wrbrower Posted April 23, 2018 Author Share Posted April 23, 2018 Better solution than clipping wires: 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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