Clunking noise from front-right suspension

[andyross]

Lately, I sometimes hear what sounds like a slight clunking noise that I have roughly traced to the front right. What is odd is that it mainly only happens when it's warm and dry. In colder or damp weather, it's silent. It's really only noticeable at slower speeds and only seems to occur with really small ripples on the road. I also can sometimes hear it if I am stopped but turn the wheels a bit. I can somewhat feel it through the steering wheel or floor, but there is no movement of the wheel itself. I was able to slightly lift and lower the front right car at the fender, and did also hear it, but wasn't in a location where I could try and look underneath and trace it.

 

I brought it in to a local shop, but they didn't find anything loose, but did find the brakes badly worn. I had them replaced, hoping that the noise could have been brake pads or calipers sticking. But, no luck.

 

I did read a thread about creaking bushings, and wonder if this could be similar. Since damp or colder (50-60F) weather is fine, I tend to think the bushings are either lubricated by water or loose enough to not make noise at those times. I was wondering what bushings tend to be the main culprits, and if it's OK to possibly spray something like silicone on them to at least see if that finds the culprits.

Edited July 3, 2017 by andyross

[indifferent]

Your search feature worked. The other 6 threads that read very similar to yours all had the same thing. Nope then likely a bushing on one of your control arms. I have had it happen to both sides of my car.

[RonHMtAiry]

Last November, due to a persistent pull to the right, I decided to have major suspension components replaced in my 2011 MKZ - front and rear shocks, inner & outer tie rod joints, forward and rearward front lower control arms. (Note, the inner tie rod joints and the Lower control arms were still good. So I sort of wasted some money having this really involved work done. But the outer tie rod joints were very worn as were the front shocks!) This was at about 60,000 miles, when many stock suspension parts wear out. The new parts brought the car back to almost new performance - as good as my 1994 BMW 528i used to be. After this work, I began hearing a clunking sound at slow speeds over small bumps in parking lots - some sort of looseness. The mechanics could find nothing they had left loose and I verified their claim personally by checking all the fastener torques.

 

The annoying clunks got worse and I fixated on the noise.

 

The I decided to replace the one part I had assumed could not have worn due the relatively minor forces I thought it would experience while driving - The front upper control arms. So I installed the right upper control arm several days ago and just installed the left one today. The right ball joint was very worn, the left, not too much. (BTW - be careful of using aftermarket parts. Though the auto shop I went to used NAPA and those worked out okay, I originally bought NAPA for these Upper Control Arms and received junk and had to return them. The control arms are critical to your alignment and must be exact. Ford on-line sold me the parts for only $9 more each than NAPA (Sorry NAPA) and the Ford parts are flawless.

 

The noise is gone, and the car handles even better than before - I'd say as good or better than my old BMW.

 

If you are fairly good at repair and have the tools, including a heavy duty ball joint separator, you can install a new control arm in about 1 1/2 hours.

 

I wrote and attached the full instructions, which are modifications on those provided by Chilton - but mine are in a better sequence and more instructive (Sorry Chilton) -- (I have been a technical writer during my career, as well as a quality assurance engineer and an industrial engineer.) If you can't open it, I can send in simpler format.

 

Best,

Ron

[drolds1]

Thanks, RonHMtAiry and welcome to the forums, but there's no attachment to your post.

 

I'm sure it would also be helpful to post this on the Lincoln MKZ Forum.

[RonHMtAiry]

Sorry it did not attach, but here it is in person. I will go onto the Lincoln forum when I can. This noise has been a persistent problem for many fusion owners, so I hope my information can help. Thanks, Ron.

Upper Control Arm Replacement - MKZ

MM Sockets: 10, 13, 14, 15, 17, 18, 19

English: ¾”

1. Loosen lug nuts (19 mm or ¾”), jack the car; remove the lug nuts and the wheel.

2. Place a set of wood blocks beneath the forward lower control arm where the fork attaches. Lower the car onto the blocks assuring that the blocks do not touch the rearward control arm or wheel damper.

3. Remove the wheel speed sensor bracket (short screw: 10 mm); de-attach the cable from the bracket, using pliers on the long sides of the clip; remove the sensor bolt and sensor (long screw: 10 mm).

4. Loosen the nut (18 mm) and bolt (15 mm) that holds the strut fork to the forward lower control arm.

5. Loosen the nut on the upper control arm, (17 mm) then use a separator to separate the ball joint.

6. Remove the upper control arm ball joint nut.

7. Remove the stabilizer bar link upper nut (15 mm) and separate the link from the bar.

8. Jack the car until it is free of the wood blocks, then remove the wood blocks.

9. Place a jack stand under the frame, lower the car onto the stand, but keep the jack in place.

10. Raise the hood and remove the 3 retaining nuts (14 mm) from the strut mount and free the strut studs from the holes.

11. Position the strut away from the Upper Control Arm mounting bolts.

12. Remove the Upper Control Arm mounting bolts (14 mm).

NOTE: If the bolts cannot be reached, then, to allow access, you will need to:

a. remove the fork clamp bolt and the fork mounting nut and bolt

b. separate the fork from the strut

c. remove the strut/spring assembly.

13. Install the Upper Control Arm and insert the bolts loosely.

14. Align the Upper Control Arm using the alignment holes.

15. Tighten the Upper Control Arm mounting bolts (14 mm; 41 lb.-ft.)

16. Jack the car and remove the jack stand.

17. Place the set of wood blocks beneath the forward lower control arm where the fork attaches, assuring that the blocks will not touch the rearward control arm or wheel damper when the car is lowered.

18. NOTE: If the strut had to be removed, replace it, loosely install the 3 nuts and reinstall the fork.

19. Slowly lower the car onto the blocks while guiding the strut mounting studs into the 3 holes in the fender.

20. Loosely install the 3 strut mount nuts.

21. Fully lower the car onto the wood blocks.

22. Insert the upper control arm taper into the socket; replace and torque the nut (17 mm; 35 lb.-ft.)

23. Tighten the strut fork-to-forward lower control arm nut (18 mm) and bolt (15 mm; 76 lb.-ft.)

24. Reattach the stabilizer bar link (15 mm; 31 lb.-ft.) using an Allen wrench and open-end wrench

25. Clip the wheel speed sensor to its bracket then install the bracket and the wheel speed sensor, assuring that the sensor pin is in it s alignment hole (10 mm; 17 lb.-ft.)

26. Fully tighten the strut mounting nuts (14 mm; 22 lb.-ft.)

27. Jack the car.

28. Remove the wood blocks.

29. Reinstall the wheel (3/4”; 100 lb.-ft.)

[drolds1]

Thanks for taking the time, Ron. I'll pin this.

[charslo]

 

The annoying clunks got worse and I fixated on the noise.

 

 

The noise is gone, and the car handles even better than before - I'd say as good or better than my old BMW.

 

 

hey ron! i was wondering if you could look at this video -->

and tell me if it's the same noise you were hearing??

[Racerboy]

Yup, I have the clunking noise too.  Front right of the vehicle, I keep thinking its the cheap ass ABS plastic front end, rattling here and there, I looked and tugged and tugged again.  Now, I'm reading from one and all with the similar issue that it could be the control arms, and or bushings. I will check that next, Even with the brake booster hissing, front end clunking, impossible task in replacing the both belts and alternator, this damn car rides smooth, been very reliable thru the yrs, (2010 Sport Fusion) its approaching the 140,000 mile mark.  I just chgd the oil, coolant, and tranny fluids, plugs. I also noticed, the COP (coil on plug pack) are cracked where the bolt holds the COP on the valve cover. I secured it with safety wire, been holding for 5 yrs now. Car has no leaks, Oh yeah, another crap design, the rear emergency brake cable and how its attached to the caliper.  You have to buy a tool (I made one) to spin the piston in to put on new pads.  JEEES!

[Racerboy]

Well,

I finally solved my front end knocking sound which occurs at various speeds.   I replaced both control arms and stabilizer links. Not only it tighten up the steering, but it felt like brand new. Took it in for the alignment, barely out of spec.  Replacing those items after 130K, saved me $450.  The worn out items basically fell apart in my hand.    Oh yeah, another problem, when its bitchen cold out side, the emergency brake will freeze and not release. 

Edited January 28, 2019 by Racerboy

[DriveThru]

My 2012 Ford Fusion is having that clunking sound now,,only noticeable at very slow speed, pressing the brake and releasing at a few miles per hour is when I hear the clunking sound, very similar to the video someone posted above. From what Racerboy said, it sounds like replacing the control arms will fix this. But I've seen some youtube comments where a few people say they replaced the control arms and still have that clunking sound. 

 

From what I can tell, the control arm replacement is very expensive (I would have to let the dealer or a local Ford-certified mechanic do it). My question,,,is this clunking thing a dangerous situation or not? If it's not a danger and only a noise nuisance, I would rather put off getting it fixed for now with it being such an expensive repair. But I do have to drive 20 miles and back each day to work, so if it's dangerous I wouldn't want to put it off. Appreciate any feedback. 

[bbf2530]

2 hours ago, DriveThru said:

My 2012 Ford Fusion is having that clunking sound now,,only noticeable at very slow speed, pressing the brake and releasing at a few miles per hour is when I hear the clunking sound, very similar to the video someone posted above. From what Racerboy said, it sounds like replacing the control arms will fix this. But I've seen some youtube comments where a few people say they replaced the control arms and still have that clunking sound. 

 

From what I can tell, the control arm replacement is very expensive (I would have to let the dealer or a local Ford-certified mechanic do it). My question,,,is this clunking thing a dangerous situation or not? If it's not a danger and only a noise nuisance, I would rather put off getting it fixed for now with it being such an expensive repair. But I do have to drive 20 miles and back each day to work, so if it's dangerous I wouldn't want to put it off. Appreciate any feedback. 

 

Hi DriveThru. This could be any of a multitude of suspension and/or brake issues. And since we do not know what the problem is or how bad it may be, it is impossible to tell whether it is dangerous to drive or not. Generally speaking, it would not usually be.  But I can not guarantee that. To properly diagnose the problem, the car needs to be put up on a lift and fully inspected, otherwise you may wind up replacing parts that do not need replacing.

 

Here is my experience: My wife drives our very well maintained 2007 MKZ and hit a pothole about 2 months ago. Wound up with similar noises to yours in the right front.  I had to have the front right lower ball joint replaced at that time. Solved the issue.

 

Other right front noises began about two weeks ago. Had to have the front right forward and rearward control arms on my 2007 MKZ replaced by my local shop and it was ~$750, including an alignment (I believe that is usually $80). My local Ford Dealer quoted ~$1,100 for the same work. She said she did not hit anything this time, so maybe delayed issues from the same pothole that caused the ball joint issue.  Or maybe just wear and tear from 102,000 miles.

 

As always, when my local shop calls and lets me know what is wrong, I go back to the shop and have them show me what is wrong while the car is still up on the lift. I trust them, but I like to see and make sure...lol

 

Bottom line is...your best bet would be to have a good shop put it up on the lift and diagnose it properly.  Most independent shops will look and diagnose simple things like that for free.  Once you actually know that the problem is, you can have them fix it, take your car somewhere else or fix it yourself.  You can also walk outside and call your Ford Dealers Service Department for a quote, as I did. None of us can tell you over the Internet what is wrong. Better to have it properly diagnosed than guess and wind up throwing unnecessary parts at it. Much like the people you mentioned above who spent money to replace good control arms which  were not the problem.

 

Well, that is the opinion of one man, anyway.   Keep us updated and good luck.

 

 

Edited March 15, 2019 by bbf2530

[DriveThru]

4 hours ago, bbf2530 said:

 

Hi DriveThru. This could be any of a multitude of suspension and/or brake issues. And since we do not know what the problem is or how bad it may be, it is impossible to tell whether it is dangerous to drive or not. Generally speaking, it would not usually be.  But I can not guarantee that. To properly diagnose the problem, the car needs to be put up on a lift and fully inspected, otherwise you may wind up replacing parts that do not need replacing.

 

Here is my experience: My wife drives our very well maintained 2007 MKZ and hit a pothole about 2 months ago. Wound up with similar noises to yours in the right front.  I had to have the front right lower ball joint replaced at that time. Solved the issue.

 

Other right front noises began about two weeks ago. Had to have the front right forward and rearward control arms on my 2007 MKZ replaced by my local shop and it was ~$750, including an alignment (I believe that is usually $80). My local Ford Dealer quoted ~$1,100 for the same work. She said she did not hit anything this time, so maybe delayed issues from the same pothole that caused the ball joint issue.  Or maybe just wear and tear from 102,000 miles.

 

As always, when my local shop calls and lets me know what is wrong, I go back to the shop and have them show me what is wrong while the car is still up on the lift. I trust them, but I like to see and make sure...lol

 

Bottom line is...your best bet would be to have a good shop put it up on the lift and diagnose it properly.  Most independent shops will look and diagnose simple things like that for free.  Once you actually know that the problem is, you can have them fix it, take your car somewhere else or fix it yourself.  You can also walk outside and call your Ford Dealers Service Department for a quote, as I did. None of us can tell you over the Internet what is wrong. Better to have it properly diagnosed than guess and wind up throwing unnecessary parts at it. Much like the people you mentioned above who spent money to replace good control arms which  were not the problem.

 

Well, that is the opinion of one man, anyway.   Keep us updated and good luck.

 

 

Thank you so much for your comments. It's helpful to have experienced folks such as yourself give advice on how to deal with things. I wish I could do repairs myself but unfortunately that's something I've never learned. I"m fairly new to this city, so don't yet know an honest mechanic who could give me a fair price. The last place I lived I did have one I could trust. He did my car repairs for years. But now since I've moved to a different state, I'm having to start all over and sure don't need to throw away money on unnecessary repairs.  

 

I appreciate your taking the time to reply and give your opinion. Am sorry you and your wife have had similar problems and an expensive repair. Didn't realize this creaking/clunking issue has been such a problem with Fusions till I searched online...lots of complaints. But otherwise, I've been very satisfied with my car.  I'll have to keep driving to work and hopefully it will be safe to do so. In the meantime, I'll try to get some recommendations for an honest local mechanic in this area. We do have a local guy who is Ford-certified, so possibly he might be the best one to try.

[bbf2530]

2 hours ago, DriveThru said:

Thank you so much for your comments. It's helpful to have experienced folks such as yourself give advice on how to deal with things. I wish I could do repairs myself but unfortunately that's something I've never learned. I"m fairly new to this city, so don't yet know an honest mechanic who could give me a fair price. The last place I lived I did have one I could trust. He did my car repairs for years. But now since I've moved to a different state, I'm having to start all over and sure don't need to throw away money on unnecessary repairs.  

 

I appreciate your taking the time to reply and give your opinion. Am sorry you and your wife have had similar problems and an expensive repair. Didn't realize this creaking/clunking issue has been such a problem with Fusions till I searched online...lots of complaints. But otherwise, I've been very satisfied with my car.  I'll have to keep driving to work and hopefully it will be safe to do so. In the meantime, I'll try to get some recommendations for an honest local mechanic in this area. We do have a local guy who is Ford-certified, so possibly he might be the best one to try.

 

Hi DriveThru.  Just as an FYI: The Fusion has no unusual or inordinate amount of suspension problems.  You will see these types of issues on all car enthusiast forums, due to the fact that most people don't usually join forums and post online to look for answers unless they are having problems. In your case, you were looking for information concerning front suspension problems with the Fusion, so that is what you will find....posts about front suspension problems.  Hope that explanation is not too confusing and makes sense.

 

In your case, I would recommend finding two (or three) shops that will put your Fusion up on the lift and give you a free estimate. That should not be hard to do. Even call your local Ford Dealers to see if they will do a free suspension check and estimate. If at least two of the shops agree, you can be pretty sure that is the problem.

 

In the case of your car and trying to find a good shop with reasonable prices, you can use my front control arm example for a general idea.  I use my local shop for things on that 2007, since it is out of warranty anyway, and they have a customer points program, so I was able to get $75 off my cost. that got the final price, with alignment, down to ~$750.  So if your problem is the front right forward and rearward control arms and you get a price of ~$825, it is a good deal.  Like I said, the Ford Dealer quoted me ~$1,100+ for the same work. However, as another FYI: When the 2007 was new and until about 3 years ago, I only used the Lincoln Dealer for service. And for my 2018 MKZ, I only use the Lincoln Dealer.

 

When I have time, I will find the paperwork for the ball joint replacement and post back with that cost too.  Every little bit of information helps avoid being overcharged.

 

Let us know how you make out and good luck.

Edited March 16, 2019 by bbf2530

[DriveThru]

11 hours ago, bbf2530 said:

 

Hi DriveThru.  Just as an FYI: The Fusion has no unusual or inordinate amount of suspension problems.  You will see these types of issues on all car enthusiast forums, due to the fact that most people don't usually join forums and post online to look for answers unless they are having problems. In your case, you were looking for information concerning front suspension problems with the Fusion, so that is what you will find....posts about front suspension problems.  Hope that explanation is not too confusing and makes sense.

 

In your case, I would recommend finding two (or three) shops that will put your Fusion up on the lift and give you a free estimate. That should not be hard to do. Even call your local Ford Dealers to see if they will do a free suspension check and estimate. If at least two of the shops agree, you can be pretty sure that is the problem.

 

In the case of your car and trying to find a good shop with reasonable prices, you can use my front control arm example for a general idea.  I use my local shop for things on that 2007, since it is out of warranty anyway, and they have a customer points program, so I was able to get $75 off my cost. that got the final price, with alignment, down to ~$750.  So if your problem is the front right forward and rearward control arms and you get a price of ~$825, it is a good deal.  Like I said, the Ford Dealer quoted me ~$1,100+ for the same work. However, as another FYI: When the 2007 was new and until about 3 years ago, I only used the Lincoln Dealer for service. And for my 2018 MKZ, I only use the Lincoln Dealer.

 

When I have time, I will find the paperwork for the ball joint replacement and post back with that cost too.  Every little bit of information helps avoid being overcharged.

 

Let us know how you make out and good luck.

Well, thank you again for such helpful information. Yes, I realize what you're saying about the forums...people mostly looking for answers to similar issues. I've been impressed with my Fusion so didn't mean to imply they all had suspension problems. Guess I was surprised at how many people commented about it online. But with any product nowadays,,from cars to washing machines, the internet gives thousands of folks a forum to discuss things and so can make an issue seem multiplied many times over. 

 

I appreciate the help with the possible cost involved,,to me an expensive repair! Which is why I would put it off for now if not dangerous to drive. With previous cars, I'm more used to the $200-$300 range repair jobs. This is the first time I've had car suspension troubles, so not used to that kind of price. The bigger problem too is having to be at work 20 miles away but somehow getting the car in for several estimates. I don't live in a big city where one can catch the bus to work, and I hesitate to ask a relative to drive me 20 miles back and forth.

 

Anyway, thanks again for your time and comments. It is so helpful to have someone knowledgeable to discuss the problem with. I'm grateful for this forum.

[kmslfd]

2009 Ford FUsion,, right from sounds like flat time , thumping and it comes and goes ,,HELP ???????????????

[bbf2530]

1 hour ago, kmslfd said:

2009 Ford FUsion,, right from sounds like flat time , thumping and it comes and goes ,,HELP ???????????????

 

Hi kmslfd. Welcome to the Ford Fusion Forum.

 

See the comments and replies above. Internet diagnosis of noises is difficult at best. All we can do is guess. Check tires for pressure, tread, flat spots, bubbles etc. Check the suspension components. Not much else we can do over the Internet

 

The most sensible course of action is to have a good shop/tech look at your car and determine what the issue is. Most independent shops will perform a free test drive and estimate. Get at least three shops to look at your car and give you a diagnosis and repair estimate. If two of them agree, you can assume that is the problem.

 

Let us know how you make out and good luck.

[andyross]

This has gotten really bad lately due to warmer than normal weather. Plus, I was told the ball joints were possibly going bad when I had a tire rotation a few months ago. Since it sounds like it's the upper control arm, I will see about getting that replaced (can't do it myself.) I'm trying to guesstimate what part it is and costs, but am having problems trying to figure out just exactly what parts would need replacement. On one site, there are a large number of 'control arm' parts, but I don't know which is which.

https://www.fordpartsprime.com/oe-ford-control_arm.html?vin=&make=Ford&model=Fusion&year=2011&submodel=&extra1=&extra2=&filter=(39609;30682;36988;28760)