Bret Cummins Posted May 7, 2018 Share Posted May 7, 2018 Okay, I need help once again! I keep putting off fixing my subwoofers because I just give up, they're just sitting there in the car deck doing nothing. I have a 2006 Ford Fusion SEL. I've ran all the proper wires from the radio and the power wire from the fuse box (which does have power, we checked) according to the wiring diagram. I did get a Ford navigation head unit last year that supports an amplifier. For my amplifier, I'm using a stock one from a 2009 Fusion (Audiophile). For subwoofers, I'm using Sony ones from a 2011 Fusion. And nothing is working for some reason, no sound at all! Do I need to get a Sony amplifier from a Fusion? I inserted the wiring diagram, if needed. I appreciate any help given! 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FusionDiffusion Posted May 7, 2018 Share Posted May 7, 2018 Need more information here. Is the rest of the stereo system working correctly? Which ACM do you have (year, trim, features), and which subwoofer amplifier do you have? You have to be careful mixing parts, because they might not work. You would need an ACM from a car that had a subwoofer amplifier. Just because there are pins there doesn't mean it will output on them. Also what electrical troubleshooting have you done so far? You need a multimeter for troubleshooting as a bare minimum. Speakers are speakers, the amplifier doesn't know the difference other than the impedance. I believe the subs are 4Ω, did you check them? 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bret Cummins Posted May 7, 2018 Author Share Posted May 7, 2018 Yes, the rest of the stereo system is working just fine. The navigation unit is from a 2008 Fusion and the amplifier is from a 2009 Fusion, both being SEL's. We do have a multimeter, that's how we knew the amp was getting power. We tested, using the multimeter, the output on the head unit and the needle barely moved up but it did slightly with audio playing. That's about all the troubleshooting we've done. The Sony subs are 4 ohms and they do work because we tested them. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eGuru Posted May 7, 2018 Share Posted May 7, 2018 Are you measuring the audio signal at the input of the subwoofer amp (Pin 7 & Pin 8) or just at the output of the HU? What voltage are you measuring for the Enable/Clip signal (Pin 1 of the amp)? 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bret Cummins Posted May 7, 2018 Author Share Posted May 7, 2018 47 minutes ago, eGuru said: Are you measuring the audio signal at the input of the subwoofer amp (Pin 7 & Pin 8) or just at the output of the HU? What voltage are you measuring for the Enable/Clip signal (Pin 1 of the amp)? We were measuring the output from the head unit. The only thing we measured from the amplifier was the power to make sure it was getting power. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bret Cummins Posted May 7, 2018 Author Share Posted May 7, 2018 When my dad and I were first installing everything we started running into trouble... nothing was working. So my dad unplugged my tail light and somehow connected the output wires from the head unit to the subs and use the tail light as a source of power to see if we were even getting a signal from the head unit. I'm not sure how he did it because I was in the front seat stepping on the brakes to active the power to the tail lights. Anyways, he did say there was audio coming from the subs, very faint but something. So that makes me think the problem is the wiring to the amplifier. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eGuru Posted May 7, 2018 Share Posted May 7, 2018 (edited) You really need to measure the voltage right at Pin 1 of the amplifier. This is the output enable (turn on) signal. The audio wiring and signals might be getting to the amp but nothing (well maybe a faint) output to the speakers if the control signal is missing. You were already advised to check this signal in the responses to your February posts on the same issue. Edited May 7, 2018 by eGuru 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FusionDiffusion Posted May 8, 2018 Share Posted May 8, 2018 Yes, need to check pin 1 voltage. Do you have that enable/clip routed from the subwoofer amplifier to the head unit just like in the diagram or not? 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bret Cummins Posted May 9, 2018 Author Share Posted May 9, 2018 22 hours ago, FusionDiffusion said: Yes, need to check pin 1 voltage. Do you have that enable/clip routed from the subwoofer amplifier to the head unit just like in the diagram or not? Yeah, I have everything hooked up exactly as the diagram shows. I will have to check the voltage of Pin 1. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bret Cummins Posted May 19, 2018 Author Share Posted May 19, 2018 On 5/8/2018 at 12:55 AM, FusionDiffusion said: Yes, need to check pin 1 voltage. Do you have that enable/clip routed from the subwoofer amplifier to the head unit just like in the diagram or not? On 5/7/2018 at 2:54 PM, eGuru said: You really need to measure the voltage right at Pin 1 of the amplifier. This is the output enable (turn on) signal. The audio wiring and signals might be getting to the amp but nothing (well maybe a faint) output to the speakers if the control signal is missing. You were already advised to check this signal in the responses to your February posts on the same issue. Update: I know this is almost a couple weeks late but I finally found time to check everything. First, I checked to make all wires were in the right slots in the harnesses and that the colors and location matched up to the wiring diagram. This includes the power wire coming from the fuse box, the head unit output, the amplifier input, the amplifier output, and the subwoofer inputs. Everything checked out exactly as the diagram showed. Next, I checked to make sure there was power coming from the fuse box, which there was, like I did in the past. Then, I checked PIN 1, or Enable/clip, and there was a strong signal coming from the head unit to the input of the amplifier. Yet still no sound. I have two amplifiers because I thought one was broken at one time... anyways, I put the harnesses into that one and still no sound. So there is definitely power going to the amplifier and the amplifier is getting signal from the head unit... not sure what's going on. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eGuru Posted May 20, 2018 Share Posted May 20, 2018 When you say you measured a strong signal on Pin 1, do you mean +12V? If so, disconnect pin1 at the HU and ground pin 1 at the amp and see what happens. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bret Cummins Posted May 20, 2018 Author Share Posted May 20, 2018 3 hours ago, eGuru said: When you say you measured a strong signal on Pin 1, do you mean +12V? If so, disconnect pin1 at the HU and ground pin 1 at the amp and see what happens. What exactly should happen? 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eGuru Posted May 20, 2018 Share Posted May 20, 2018 I can't remember if the enable should be high or low for the amp to output. So it may work with a ground at Pin 1. If it doesn't then you need to re-examine your verification of the audio wiring. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bret Cummins Posted May 20, 2018 Author Share Posted May 20, 2018 (edited) 4 hours ago, eGuru said: I can't remember if the enable should be high or low for the amp to output. So it may work with a ground at Pin 1. If it doesn't then you need to re-examine your verification of the audio wiring. I’m just now realizing I measure all wrong. There is nothing when I used me 6-24 V tool. I’m still very new when it comes to this stuff. It’s kind of a learning process for me. Edited May 20, 2018 by Bret Cummins 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eGuru Posted May 20, 2018 Share Posted May 20, 2018 I'm not sure what a 6-24V tool is, but I suggest you get a decent DMM. You can get a totally adequate one for about $30. It seems that many people resist getting one even though they'll happily stock up on wrenches/sockets/etc that cost a lot more. https://www.ebay.ca/itm/Multimeter-Neoteck-Auto-Ranging-Digital-Multimeter-AC-DC-Voltage-Current-Resista/322757738658?_trkparms=aid%3D555017%26algo%3DPL.CASSINI%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20170803111237%26meid%3D40f5c6ff5e7e48d0bf072fff6cac82d6%26pid%3D100506%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26%26itm%3D322757738658&_trksid=p2045573.c100506.m3226 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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