KyleQ Posted August 5, 2018 Share Posted August 5, 2018 (edited) My wife's 16` AWD Titanium has been doing something goofy - she mentioned it in passing but didn't really tell me the whole story. It did it to me days before the warranty expired and I didn't get it into the shop in time, and my dealer was clear to me that the warranty expired and it will come out of pocket. I went to move her car and I was greeted with a light show. Beyond what is shown on the dash I had, what felt like, no electric assist on the power steering and the reverse camera stayed on. This only seems to happen after it rains and the vehicle is either outside or driven in it. I hooked up Forscan and did some ABS sensor data logging and found that the RR sensor was lazy on reporting. Sometimes the sensor wouldn't read at all or it would read far slower than the others. I was counting sensor check ins and in my short drive it was hundreds of counts off. Before I even took at look at the car (or did much research) I purchased a Ford Motorcraft BRAB‑425 Rear ABS Wheel Speed Sensor on Rock Auto for a whopping $12 to my door. Today I did some poking around to find that it may be a corrosion issue, might not be, $12 is an easy start. I'm slightly concerned about the multitude of lights on though. I understand the advance track, abs and TC not functioning, but why the airbag light and reverse camera staying on? I'm going to start my search at the RR today and see what I find - anything else of note to check? Edited August 5, 2018 by KyleQ 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
propwash Posted August 5, 2018 Share Posted August 5, 2018 Random, multiple, seemingly unrelated warning lights can be one symptom of a battery that is on its last legs. Have you had the battery checked on a good modern battery tester? The old method of checking voltage with the engine off and then again while it is running is no longer a reliable indicator of battery condition. If your car is an early 2016, it's possible that your battery could be approaching the end of its useful life. I had similar indications on my 2012, and a new battery fixed things right away. Some batteries fail after as little as two and a half years. Mine lasted over five, but when it went bad, it happened quickly. Have your battery tested and keep us advised. Good luck 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KyleQ Posted August 5, 2018 Author Share Posted August 5, 2018 (edited) That is an interesting thought- I just got back from my test drive after replacing the ABS sensor on the rear right. I sprayed brake cleaner into the car side connection and down where the sensor goes to try and clean the connectors (I was out of electrical contact cleaner). Nothing looked corroded and I could see 1/4" of wire before it was fully taped and loomed beyond my vision - I don't think the issue is there. I was diving into the Forscan rabbit hole making some long wanted changes (it's the wife's car, but I needed to make some quality of life changes). I turned on acc power, got the module connected to the laptop and got Forscan working in the matter of a few minutes, 5 max. The lights were on, radio playing and fan blowing on low. I made my first change, Bambi mode, and verified it's function. I then turned off the annoying double beep without the key and then switched on secure idle to prevent theft while I'm out and about. Those changes took a few moments max, I would say ten minutes. Funny thing is I then got a low battery error and it wouldn't connect anymore, it said it was below 11.1v. I cranked up the car, which it started just fine, and took it for a test drive. My ELM is fairly old and doesn't read all of the sensor data on my laptop correctly but my phone does for some reason. I wanted to read TPMS sensor hits as I couldn't see anything else for wheel speed - what should I be searching to see individual ABS sensor info? Regardless, when I was looking at this about a month ago I noticed the rear right sensor wasn't reporting data consistently like the others, so I replaced the ABS sensor. Thinking back, that doesn't make any sense. I took it for a test drive and got good consistent data but now I'm thinking I wasn't even looking at the correct data. I had some codes (that I should have saved) for inconsistent data into some module, a TPMS code and something else - they didn't seem to add up or point to anything I could think of. They seemed random- no MIL on the dash either. Can I put a resistance style (toaster) battery checker on the battery while in the car to see how it reads or is that a bad idea? Your battery idea has me thinking as I shouldn't have gotten the battery pulled down that fast... Edited August 5, 2018 by KyleQ 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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