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AC runs warm with fan high, temp set full cold with engine warmed up


Sylvain Vallée
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Hi. I have a 2011 fusion 2.5l

This thing appended about 4 times now. Running about 30 minutes a/c on, then I stop to get beer at the store like 5 minutes or less, then get back in the car... Start it and the temp gauge shows cold (needle fully down) fan kicks on full speed and a/c blows warm. 

Next I just stop the motor then start it again (less than 10 seconds) and everything back to normal. This appends the same way everytime it does. 

Sorry for my bad English ;)

Any clue? 

Thanks a lot. 

Edited by bbf2530
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25 minutes ago, Sylvain Vallée said:

Battery is 2 years old. :)

 

Hi Sylvain.  eGuru was using 3 years as a general baseline. Modern cars are very electrical, electronic and battery intensive, so batteries do not last as long as they used to. Might still be a good idea to have the battery professionally tested. 

 

And drink less beer so you don't need to stop so often and turn the car off. ;)

 

Keep us updated and good luck.

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4 hours ago, Sylvain Vallée said:

Load test is reading OK and have plenty of power to give. Thanks. 

Anyway to edit the title of my post or show me?     (AC on, fan full speed, temp full cold on hot motor) 

 

 

Hi Sylvain. First, I think you were asking if we could edit your post title, so I did so. And no need to apologize for your English. It is certainly better than my French. :)

 

Next...we are not there with you, so don't know many details. However, as has been mentioned often here on the Fusion Forum, a traditional load test will not spot many battery problems. You're better off having the Ford Dealership test it. It may not be the cause of your problem, but it is the most common cause of your type of problem. What brand battery is it and what are its ratings (CCA etc)?

 

Also, do you have the manual or EATC (Electronic Automatic Temperature Control) climate control system? If you have the EATC system, the fan running on high speed would be a normal condition when first starting the car up on a hot day, since it is trying to cool the car down to your temperature setting as quickly as possible.

 

If there is a problem other than battery, you will likely need to have it diagnosed properly by a Ford Dealer or a shop you trust.

 

Keep us updated and good luck.

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Motomaster (Canadian Tire) 710 cca at 0 and I don't have the eatc system. 

Things I did this morning..... Unplug every wire related to the problem and repluged. So when I go back on the road I will be able to know if it helped. 

Take note that the charge rate is 13.9 to 14 volts on load and unload. Is this OK? 

Thanks again. 

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4 hours ago, Sylvain Vallée said:

Motomaster (Canadian Tire) 710 cca at 0 and I don't have the eatc system. 

Things I did this morning..... Unplug every wire related to the problem and repluged. So when I go back on the road I will be able to know if it helped. 

Take note that the charge rate is 13.9 to 14 volts on load and unload. Is this OK? 

Thanks again. 

 

Hi Sylvain.  So if we are to understand this correctly: You have the manual climate controls, and when you restart the car the fan turns on "full blast" even when it is set to a lower speed? Or the fan is set to high already?

 

As mentioned here and quite often here on the Fusion Forum in general, a traditional load test is not accurate for newer vehicles. We are not there to witness this and it's not entirely obvious what the details of the problem are or if there is a problem. It could still be a battery issue.

Edited by bbf2530
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Ok the topic correction is not ok. I'll try to explain differently. 

 

After 30 minutes running, I stop the car about 5 minutes then restart.... The cooling fan kicks on high (the radiator fan) the a/c blows warm and the coolant temperature gauge (in the dash) is all the way down (full cold) but motor at operating temperature. Then I shut the car like 5 seconds, restart and everything back to normal. Everytime it's the same way it append. 

Thanks again. 

 

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2 hours ago, Sylvain Vallée said:

Ok the topic correction is not ok. I'll try to explain differently. 

 

After 30 minutes running, I stop the car about 5 minutes then restart.... The cooling fan kicks on high (the radiator fan) the a/c blows warm and the coolant temperature gauge (in the dash) is all the way down (full cold) but motor at operating temperature. Then I shut the car like 5 seconds, restart and everything back to normal. Everytime it's the same way it append. 

Thanks again. 

 

 

Hi Sylvain. Okay...beats me. Maybe one of our tech experts will jump in with some better advice.  My advice, for starters, have your battery properly tested, not a simple load test. If the battery tests okay or a new battery does not solve the problem, then you probably need to take your car in to have this properly diagnosed.

 

 

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Thanks. 

Is the head sensor...... The coolant sensor? Or it is somewhere else. 

I did unplugged and plugged back many connectors to seek for rust for broken wires and for now nothing wrong. 

If it continues, I'll bring it to the dealer. 

I plugged my "scangauge" to keep an eye on the temperature so if the temp gauge drops all the way down to cold, I will be able to read the data from the coolant sensor. 

Thanks again. 

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Ok. Update..... 

It appended again yesterday. My coolant temp gauge showed full cold (needle all the way down) BUT, was still able to read temperature on my scanner so it's not the sensor. Next thing I tried, full reset.... (battery unplug and jump wires for one minute) next run I will see if it did something good. 

Maybe this started after cleaning my throttle body? I did the same reset after job done. 

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Seems strange that your engine temp gauge would be all the way down after 30 minutes of driving. Others have suggested a battery issue, do you have any problems starting or slowness turning over at all? 

 

The CHT on the 2.5L is outlined in this video, I'm not sure that would be your issue but the video shows you the location and what to look for as far as corrosion on the sensor: CHT issues

 

Edited by con_fusion
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The CHT sensor interfaces directly only to the PCM. 

The PCM transmits the reading to the Instrument Cluster on the CANbus.

 

Since the OBD2 connected scantool that Sylvain is using is reporting the correct temperature, the issue is at the ICC end.

Try to unplug and reseat the connector at the back of the ICC. 

It may be a connector issue - but I would have expected additional ICC display issues

 

It may be that the ICC temperature gauge is defective.

 

This issue is not related to software or HVAC hardware.

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Yes, I am referring to the connector at the back of the  instrument cluster - there is only one connector there.

Cold at the needle is a false reading. The scanner reading is probably correct.

What temperature does the scanner report when the fan is at high speed?

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Around 190 degree. 

It always append about 5 minutes after a good run. I start the car, needle goes up and down then goes in center for +/-5 seconds then drop all the down suddenly. I shut it down then restart right away and it's ok so not sure about connector, correct me if I am wrong. 

The reset (battery unplug and jump wire did noting.) 

Non I will track the amount of minutes before it appends. Already did 5 minutes wait time but nothing. Next time I'll go for 6 min. It's always in this range of time. And trying to make a video of the dash. 

Thanks. 

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https://www.fordfusionforum.com/topic/14596-2010-fusion-25l-temp-gauge-turns-off-p1289/?do=findComment&comment=89073

 

This is exactly what is happening with the car so I well give a try on changing the CHTS(Cylinder head temp sensor. If not working, I'll bring it to the dealer. 

Thanks. 

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