akirby Posted February 28, 2019 Share Posted February 28, 2019 On 2/27/2019 at 1:09 PM, Switchblade Sue said: I have a friend today coming to test the load on the battery. If he's using an old style battery tester don't bother. You need a modern electronic tester like the Solar BA-7. This is why so many shops say the battery is good when it isn't. Trust us on this one - there is a 90%+ chance it's the battery and even if it isn't, you'll have to buy one in the next year or two, so why not get a fresh one and not have to worry about it? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Switchblade Sue Posted February 28, 2019 Author Share Posted February 28, 2019 2 hours ago, akirby said: If he's using an old style battery tester don't bother. You need a modern electronic tester like the Solar BA-7. This is why so many shops say the battery is good when it isn't. Trust us on this one - there is a 90%+ chance it's the battery and even if it isn't, you'll have to buy one in the next year or two, so why not get a fresh one and not have to worry about it? Do a friend came by with a battery load tester. Hooked it up. As he started upping the load bearing to 400, battery dropped quickly into the bad zone enough that he stopped the test so he didn’t kill the battery. If this is the case, Don’t these cars with so much technology have an indicator saying the battery is bad? Excuse my naïve questions as I’ve never had a car with this much bills and whistles. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bangster Posted February 28, 2019 Share Posted February 28, 2019 The technology is putting car in Run for 5 minutes (without it running) and showing nothing when attempting to start All the other talk about accessory mode going forward will help with the life of the battery. Since there is no true Accessory mode, if you are just going to listen to the radio, see if you can turn it on without putting the car in run. If you want to do other things like roll up windows, then put it in delay exit mode by pressing start twice without your foot on the brake. Leaving it in Run means the blower motor (a very large draw), all the electronics needed to run, headlights (possibly) will be draining the battery. If the car had sat, or was left in run for a long period of time, or you just don't know the history of it, a battery is a pretty cheap thing to replace. Even in severe extremes the OEM battery shouldn't even be close to needing to be replaced if taken care of. I was in an accident, and the tow truck driver put the car in run to get the car out of gear to load it up and unload it, and left it that way, killing a brand new battery sitting in the yard. I had to deal with trying to get the insurance to replace it as part of the accident and it was a PITA. I would be bummed like you are, my 2017 Escape has a relatively expensive AGM battery since it has auto start/stop, and to already be replacing it would be a bummer. But I know the history of it from mile 58 all the way to mile 37,000, every time it goes in for an oil change it also gets a battery test and the last 2 times it has tested better than rated, and even though it is the "Quick Lane" part of the dealership I still think it is a valid test, and will show when it starts getting weak (as they tagged the battery in my 2015 as starting to lose ccas, but not even close to needing replaced). 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drolds1 Posted March 2, 2019 Share Posted March 2, 2019 On 2/27/2019 at 10:43 PM, bbf2530 said: Hi Art. Splash screen was also still on in my car when I pressed the audio power button. Perhaps it is a programming difference between 2017 and 2018 models. Another possibility is maybe mine is behaving differently because I drive it more infrequently and the system has gone into "Battery Saver Mode"? Just taking some guesses here. I will try again the next few times I get into my car and post back with the results. Thanks Art, and good luck with your service. OK, bbf. Got the car back. They had to keep it an extra day. It needed annual NY state safety and emissions inspection and they got a hidden code. That precludes running the test. They had to do a drive cycle and the first attempt didn't work, so they had to do it over again the next day. The SA couldn't tell me what the specific code was. They called it "extraneous and meaningless." Obviously, it hadn't triggered a CEL. The electronics in these cars are so weird! ? But I digress. With the screen dark and the door closed, I pushed the 'Power' button and the radio came on. I got out of the car, waited for the screen to go dark and even with the door open, the radio still came on. Perhaps they changed this for 2018. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bbf2530 Posted March 2, 2019 Share Posted March 2, 2019 1 hour ago, drolds1 said: OK, bbf. Got the car back. They had to keep it an extra day. It needed annual NY state safety and emissions inspection and they got a hidden code. That precludes running the test. They had to do a drive cycle and the first attempt didn't work, so they had to do it over again the next day. The SA couldn't tell me what the specific code was. They called it "extraneous and meaningless." Obviously, it hadn't triggered a CEL. The electronics in these cars are so weird! ? But I digress. With the screen dark and the door closed, I pushed the 'Power' button and the radio came on. I got out of the car, waited for the screen to go dark and even with the door open, the radio still came on. Perhaps they changed this for 2018. Hi Art. Thanks for the update. I haven't driven the car since my last update, so I will run my car through the same barrage of tests next time I have a chance. Seems that something was changed for the 2018's, unless my car was in Deep Sleep mode and perhaps that alters the audio system availability. Just a random thought. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akirby Posted March 5, 2019 Share Posted March 5, 2019 On 2/28/2019 at 3:43 PM, Switchblade Sue said: Do a friend came by with a battery load tester. Hooked it up. As he started upping the load bearing to 400, battery dropped quickly into the bad zone enough that he stopped the test so he didn’t kill the battery. If this is the case, Don’t these cars with so much technology have an indicator saying the battery is bad? Excuse my naïve questions as I’ve never had a car with this much bills and whistles. There is nothing onboard to test the battery capacity. It only checks to see if the alternator is providing enough output to keep the battery charged - if not then you get the check charging system error. You need a separate battery tester like the Solar BA-7 to check the battery CCA (cold cranking amps) against the factory spec. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bbf2530 Posted March 7, 2019 Share Posted March 7, 2019 (edited) On 3/2/2019 at 3:04 PM, drolds1 said: OK, bbf. Got the car back. They had to keep it an extra day. It needed annual NY state safety and emissions inspection and they got a hidden code. That precludes running the test. They had to do a drive cycle and the first attempt didn't work, so they had to do it over again the next day. The SA couldn't tell me what the specific code was. They called it "extraneous and meaningless." Obviously, it hadn't triggered a CEL. The electronics in these cars are so weird! ? But I digress. With the screen dark and the door closed, I pushed the 'Power' button and the radio came on. I got out of the car, waited for the screen to go dark and even with the door open, the radio still came on. Perhaps they changed this for 2018. Hi again Art. Okay, had a chance to check this morning after driving the car for some time yesterday. Enough driving to ensure the battery had fully charged before shutting it down last night. The verdict is my system behaves the same as yours. I got in, closed the door and the Lincoln/SYNC welcome screen came to life. I pushed the audio system power button and the system began to play. My guess is the audio power button did not work for me previously because my car's electrical/electronics system had gone into "Deep Sleep" mode", due to the extremely cold weather and infrequent driving/short trips I had been taking. Thanks for helping out. Edited March 7, 2019 by bbf2530 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bbf2530 Posted March 7, 2019 Share Posted March 7, 2019 (edited) On 2/28/2019 at 3:43 PM, Switchblade Sue said: Do a friend came by with a battery load tester. Hooked it up. As he started upping the load bearing to 400, battery dropped quickly into the bad zone enough that he stopped the test so he didn’t kill the battery. If this is the case, Don’t these cars with so much technology have an indicator saying the battery is bad? Excuse my naïve questions as I’ve never had a car with this much bills and whistles. Hi Switchblade Sue. What was the outcome? Did you replace the battery? If yes, did it solve your issues? If not, are you still having the same issues? It can always help others when members post back with their outcomes. Edited March 7, 2019 by bbf2530 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drolds1 Posted March 7, 2019 Share Posted March 7, 2019 4 hours ago, bbf2530 said: Hi again Art. Okay, had a chance to check this morning after driving the car for some time yesterday. Enough driving to ensure the battery had fully charged before shutting it down last night. The verdict is my system behaves the same as yours. I got in, closed the door and the Lincoln/SYNC welcome screen came to life. I pushed the audio system power button and the system began to play. My guess is the audio power button did not work for me previously because my car's electrical/electronics system had gone into "Deep Sleep" mode", due to the extremely cold weather and infrequent driving/short trips I had been taking. Thanks for helping out. OK. Thanks for the update. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Switchblade Sue Posted March 8, 2019 Author Share Posted March 8, 2019 23 hours ago, bbf2530 said: Hi Switchblade Sue. What was the outcome? Did you replace the battery? If yes, did it solve your issues? If not, are you still having the same issues? It can always help others when members post back with their outcomes. So I have not had the chance to get to a Ford dealer yet being that my life is been busy with work etc. The battery failed the loadbearing test and today I didn’t realize my OBDII sensor works on this car. The running voltage came up as 12.6 which is far lower than it should be. Now if running voltage is that low usually indicates alternator doesn’t it?I really appreciate you guys checking up on the situation. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eGuru Posted March 9, 2019 Share Posted March 9, 2019 On 3/8/2019 at 11:49 AM, Switchblade Sue said: So I have not had the chance to get to a Ford dealer yet being that my life is been busy with work etc. The battery failed the loadbearing test and today I didn’t realize my OBDII sensor works on this car. The running voltage came up as 12.6 which is far lower than it should be. Now if running voltage is that low usually indicates alternator doesn’t it?I really appreciate you guys checking up on the situation. It could also mean that one of the cells in the battery is bad. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akirby Posted March 10, 2019 Share Posted March 10, 2019 The alternator is variable output so don’t assume it’s bad just because it’s not 14.4V. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Switchblade Sue Posted March 11, 2019 Author Share Posted March 11, 2019 9 hours ago, akirby said: The alternator is variable output so don’t assume it’s bad just because it’s not 14.4V. Thank you for more info. I still have not had a chance to get to the dealer. My fiancé put the battery in a charger to see what percentage of a charge it would take while he was sanding and buffing the car. The charger showed the battery had only 25% charge when we started. It never took a 100% charge. Only would go to 80%. Odd thing I did notice on my way to Vegas, the USB port wasn’t charging my phone while plugged in. After he charged the battery, my trip home my phone charged while in use no problem. ? I know when he had trouble with his Audi and he put his charger on his battery, it would only accept an 80% charge. He changed the battery and his car has been good since. So things seem to still point to battery. I just need to figure out a way to get into the dealer so they can verify that’s all it is. I really do appreciate everyone’s feedback here. I’m on a Fusion page on FB and people are rude and not helpful at all. They just want to talk shit on each other’s cars. ??♀️. You guys are all wonderful. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Switchblade Sue Posted March 11, 2019 Author Share Posted March 11, 2019 10 hours ago, akirby said: The alternator is variable output so don’t assume it’s bad just because it’s not 14.4V. I noticed that now. Thank you for telling me. I only got the 12.6 reading once. The other photo was my readings on my drive home tonight. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akirby Posted March 11, 2019 Share Posted March 11, 2019 Are you still under the 3/36K warranty? If not I would just go to Advance and get a new battery for $120 and 30 minutes of your time and be done with it. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Switchblade Sue Posted March 12, 2019 Author Share Posted March 12, 2019 20 hours ago, akirby said: Are you still under the 3/36K warranty? If not I would just go to Advance and get a new battery for $120 and 30 minutes of your time and be done with it. My car already has 60,000 On it. However I do have another 60,000 warranty for it when I purchased it I just want to make sure there’s nothing electrical or something wrong that’s draining the battery. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drolds1 Posted March 12, 2019 Share Posted March 12, 2019 If you've got 60k miles and it's the OE battery, then you should just replace it as a matter of course. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Switchblade Sue Posted March 21, 2019 Author Share Posted March 21, 2019 Fusion is finally at the dealer. They said to change battery. They are looking into a secondary issue where the remote start only blows a high powered fan when started. The climate control doesn’t work right. I have it set to auto and it has only correctly worked twice. So as for the start issue. You guys were right. Battery. ?? 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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