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2016 Intermittently Not Starting


smi889
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Step on brake, push start, seat slides forward, engine doesn't start, then all warning messages come on as if the computer thinks the car is running. Turn it off, try again and may start or take a couple of tries. It is very irregular and under different situations. Anyone ever had this happen or heard of it happening?

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If you have already been reading these forums, you will have seen that the first question in a situation like yours is to ask about the age of the battery.

If it is the original battery, it is more than 3 years old and you may as well replace it before doing any more troubleshooting.

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3 hours ago, smi889 said:

Step on brake, push start, seat slides forward, engine doesn't start, then all warning messages come on as if the computer thinks the car is running. Turn it off, try again and may start or take a couple of tries. It is very irregular and under different situations. Anyone ever had this happen or heard of it happening?

 

Hi smi889.  What eGuru stated. If your battery is older than 3 years, it would be the first suspect.  If it is not, then having your battery properly load tested (not an old fashioned battery test) by your Ford Dealer would be the next step. You can find coupons for a free battery test on the Ford Owners website. Also, if your car is still within the 3 year/36,000 mile Bumper to Bumper Warranty, the battery replacement, or other fix, would be covered under warranty.

 

And just as an FYI: All the dash lights coming on does not mean that your car thinks it "is running". That is the natural state of things when the ignition is on but the car is not running. As a test of this, press the starter button without depressing the brake pedal. The ignition is now on, the dash lights are on, but the car is not started. This is explained further in the Owners Manual.

 

Having your battery tested and/or replaced would be your next step, if you don't want to bring your car to a shop.

 

Keep us updated and good luck.

Edited by bbf2530
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First thing I did was have the battery load tested which read okay. Bought a new one anyway since it was three years old. Understand about normal warning lights on dash coming on, but I as I said the seat slide forward into the drive position and all the warning messages, not lamps scrolled thru on the dash. Completely different than a normal ignition turn on to start. ?

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This problem happens with remote start or normal as sitting in the car. It is so inconsistent as not daily, every week , or month, and is not a daily driver. When I go to start the car, step on the brake, push the start button I don't hear a click or stater engage or the engine engage. However, the driver seat goes forward, get all the warning messages, not the normal just oil pressure light etc.. Hit the stop button seat slides back and of course all warnings go off. It make work on the second attempt or it may take a few more tries and start normally. Have never had a check engine light and of course this happens right after the three year warranty. I don't know of a diagnostic tool that could read this, thus my hesitancy to go to a dealership. Not sure about the start-run relay but may have to start shot-gunning the problem. I have googled and have not seen this problem even in the TSB's.    

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So it behaves exactly like if you didn't put your foot on the brake pedal and press start, right? I wonder if it is related to the brake switch or something like that. When it happens again can you check the brake lights? Have you had any issues shifting out of park? I guess that doesn't explain the remote start doing the same thing though, and probably does point to the start relay, starter wiring, starter, etc.

 

The blower motor relay is the same as the start relay (and start-run relay, I think you are looking at a start relay failure) as others, but I would try swapping around the blower motor one, not one of the more crucial ones like cooling fan ones.

Edited by bangster
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2 hours ago, bangster said:

So it behaves exactly like if you didn't put your foot on the brake pedal and press start, right? I wonder if it is related to the brake switch or something like that. When it happens again can you check the brake lights? Have you had any issues shifting out of park? I guess that doesn't explain the remote start doing the same thing though, and probably does point to the start relay, starter wiring, starter, etc.

 

The blower motor relay is the same as the start relay (and start-run relay, I think you are looking at a start relay failure) as others, but I would try swapping around the blower motor one, not one of the more crucial ones like cooling fan ones.

Since remote start doesn't need to see the brake actuated, we can discount the brake switch 

However, the vehicle must be detecting that the transmission is in "park" for starting with either RS or manual start switch depression.

 

Next time it won't start on the first try, move the shifter off the park position and then back and see if it makes a difference.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Update On Start Problem!

In addition to the start problem I have a parasitic battery drain. Stopped by the dealership today to ask if their computer could diagnose that type of problem and they "should" be able to at a cost of $115-$200. Anyway, went out to the car to leave and wouldn't start. Tried three times and went in to leave it there.  The service guy came out so I could show him and sure enough it didn't start and he could see the messages. Turned it off and no start the second time but I left my foot on the brake longer this time and up came the messages, low oil pressure, engine coolant over-temp, wrench symbol, ABS, and then it said put foot on brake, then start engine. It started! To me it looks like it was doing diagnostics by itself. Might be the reason for the battery drain running diagnostics on it's own? Next time it fails to start I will keep my foot on the brake and see if I get the same messages as I referred to as diagnostics. Very interesting but confusing.

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  • 4 weeks later...
1 hour ago, lbtalton said:

This happens to me constantly. I have changed the battery and had the car towed to the repair shop 3 times. Once they receive it, the car cranks normally and I feel like an idiot.

This is still happening to me and so far I have learned to live with it. Have no faith in Dealership diagnostics. When you say it won't start, how many times do you try? On mine it may start the second or third attempt. I don't give up until it eventually starts, very frustrating, and it is always random. Like you, I replaced the original good battery with a new battery just for assurances. I am beginning to believe that when Ford done away with the Vehicle Maintenance Report something is going on with the software. No way to prove it and no Manufacture wants to admit to anything. I share your frustration!

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3 minutes ago, smi889 said:

This is still happening to me and so far I have learned to live with it. Have no faith in Dealership diagnostics. When you say it won't start, how many times do you try? On mine it may start the second or third attempt. I don't give up until it eventually starts, very frustrating, and it is always random. Like you, I replaced the original good battery with a new battery just for assurances. I am beginning to believe that when Ford done away with the Vehicle Maintenance Report something is going on with the software. No way to prove it and no Manufacture wants to admit to anything. I share your frustration!

Do you have a wireless cellphone charger in the vehicle?

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I do not have a wireless charger. I do have the push button start so if I put the key FOB in the console how would I determine if that was a good trouble shooting if the car can start on the second try or when ever it wants to? It may go a month or two and not happen. I have always been able to start the car no matter how many attempts it takes. Very hard to explain unless you experience it. It would be nice to hear from

lbtalton

if he is still having this problem.

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3 hours ago, smi889 said:

I do not have a wireless charger. I do have the push button start so if I put the key FOB in the console how would I determine if that was a good trouble shooting if the car can start on the second try or when ever it wants to? It may go a month or two and not happen. I have always been able to start the car no matter how many attempts it takes. Very hard to explain unless you experience it. It would be nice to hear from

lbtalton

if he is still having this problem.

With an intermittent problem that happens so infrequently, it is unlikely that any over the internet diagnosis will pinpoint the issue.

Let us know if you ever solve it.

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1 hour ago, eGuru said:

With an intermittent problem that happens so infrequently, it is unlikely that any over the internet diagnosis will pinpoint the issue.

Let us know if you ever solve it.

Exactly why I was searching for someone who has the same problem. Was hoping that Ibtalon would come back on his post.

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 4/30/2019 at 9:56 AM, eGuru said:

With an intermittent problem that happens so infrequently, it is unlikely that any over the internet diagnosis will pinpoint the issue.

Let us know if you ever solve it.

On 4/29/2019 at 9:51 AM, eGuru said:

Do you have a wireless cellphone charger in the vehicle?

I keep my primary fob in the back up slot and the secondary stays at work.  I have replaced all of the batteries twice in those fobs, but nothing works.  I forgot to mention that I had to replace the engine in February due to a blown head gasket.  I think I'm done with this car.  Also would a wireless charger affect the cranking?

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Hi guys!  Sorry I've been MIA.  My car is still having the not cranking intermittently issue.  I have taken it to the Ford dealership and refused to take it back until they find the issue.  Of course, the car now starts with no issue at the shop. But they think it could be an electrical issue. I'll know more on Monday.

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17 minutes ago, lbtalton said:

I keep my primary fob in the back up slot and the secondary stays at work.  I have replaced all of the batteries twice in those fobs, but nothing works.  I forgot to mention that I had to replace the engine in February due to a blown head gasket.  I think I'm done with this car.  Also would a wireless charger affect the cranking?

Induction chargers have been known to interfere with the ability of the car to correctly read the security chip in the fob - so car won't crank. 

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On 4/30/2019 at 9:56 AM, eGuru said:

With an intermittent problem that happens so infrequently, it is unlikely that any over the internet diagnosis will pinpoint the issue.

Let us know if you ever solve it.

 

16 hours ago, lbtalton said:

Hi guys!  Sorry I've been MIA.  My car is still having the not cranking intermittently issue.  I have taken it to the Ford dealership and refused to take it back until they find the issue.  Of course, the car now starts with no issue at the shop. But they think it could be an electrical issue. I'll know more on Monday.

 

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  • 2 weeks later...
15 hours ago, smi889 said:

Hey Ibtalton, did you drive it off a cliff?

Lol!  No, but I almost did.  After sitting at the Ford dealership for a week and a half, they were finally able to figure out what was wrong.  When my new engine was put in back in February, the harness was damaged.  There are 4 coils in the harness and 3 were broken.  I have had the car back for 2 weeks now and everything seems to be working fine.  

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