Jump to content

My instructions on restoring the hybrid EV function on the Ford Fusion Hybrid approaching the 8/9+ years mark.


allen84

Recommended Posts

1 hour ago, PFN said:

My Milan hybrid battery charges fully as shown by the EV gauge. Is this a different problem?  would Allen's fix work for me?

Thank you.

Phil

The Milan hybrid was only produced in 2010 and 2011.  I have two 2010 Milan hybrids.  The problem is the computer before the "fix" will not properly utilize the HV battery so almost all the time it will stay fully charged and not go into the hybrid mode.  When working properly the car should go into the hybrid mode at speeds under 47mph when braking, at idle and when driving with very light pedal pressure after the engine has warmed up.  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Followed these instructions for my 2010 Fusion Hybrid at 188,000 miles in late 2019 and the hybrid function was immediately restored to what I was hoping for.

Now, in March, 2019, at 192,000 miles the car is still doing great and when the outside temps are around 70 Fahrenheit I can achieve 40mpg around town with ease if I avoid being a leadfoot.

At freezing temps,  urban MPG typically fades to mid to low 30s. Haven't experienced 90+ degrees since the fix, yet.

 

I set the battery age to 1 yr.

 

This fix eliminated the acceleration lag that I was experiencing from a stop that had begun to occur in 2019 and has restored the excellent low speed acceleration from a stop that I had been used to until 2019. 

 

This car continues to perform in a manner that makes me want to keep it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey Phil (PFN).  Look on your driver's door jam sticker at manufacturing date.  I'd guess your problems started exactly when the calendar ticked over in that month 10 years after the build date. If I were you I'd do the date reset.  Only been a few weeks for me now but my car is back to "normal" in the 40's mpg vs 27-29 just before the zap.  And I'm no longer worried about the safety issue where no battery causes a hesitation delay starting up from stops. And the restored braking regeneration will save my brakes. If I have to carry all that extra battery weight around and lose the fold down trunk space, I want it to work.  Disclaimer: Of course it is unknown to me what the long term effects will be.  I'm the original owner and may keep this car another 5-10 years.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
On ‎1‎/‎22‎/‎2020 at 3:49 AM, allen84 said:

 

I can help you.  I can also may very well help you perform the procedure while you sit back and watch.   I just need remote access to your computer.  You need to download the software called Anydesk or Teamviewer so I can take temporary control of your computer as if I was there.  The program is free when you choose to install it as personal use.

 

All you would need to do is, park as close to your house, preferably inside the garage, so the wifi signal to your laptop is the strongest, as I would need a stable internet connection to you to stay connected.   Once the ODBII is recognized to your laptop and the Forscan software is ready to use (I can help you with getting that program when I remote access to you if you have trouble getting it activated).   

 

PM me your number, and we agree on a time we can do this.   Once we agree on a time that's best for us, we just text back and forth or use whatsapp for video calling, this will avoid long-distance phone call charges.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Allen84 --------------  I am such a computer illiterate. Can you remote access my laptop once I get the Anydesk or Teamviewer set up at some time in the near futue?  I would gladly send you a $25 gift card for your time. I have purchased the OBDII from Amazon as you have suggested but that is all. I have not downloaded the ForScan program. Like some others, I do not want to mess this thing up if I push the wrong button if you know what I mean.

 

Dean Peterson

Woodbury MN

 

(763) 742-4747 if you want to chat.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, dpete15312 said:

Allen84 --------------  I am such a computer illiterate. Can you remote access my laptop once I get the Anydesk or Teamviewer set up at some time in the near futue?  I would gladly send you a $25 gift card for your time. I have purchased the OBDII from Amazon as you have suggested but that is all. I have not downloaded the ForScan program. Like some others, I do not want to mess this thing up if I push the wrong button if you know what I mean.

 

Dean Peterson

Woodbury MN

 

(763) 742-4747 if you want to chat.

 

Sure, I can assist you no problem.   I can help you get Forscan and activate the free trial for you.  We can do it on Friday or sometime on the weekend possibly.   I'll text you later.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Allen84 ------------  Thank you so much for your time. Greetings from locked down Minnesota.

 

I have a 2010 Ford Fusion Hybrid with about 94000 miles on it. As a matter of history, i am getting 29 mpg on my current tank. I try to be as easy on the gas pedal as possible. The hybrid battery seems to be solid and seems to charge and discharge as it it supposed to. The symptom I am having is that it only goes in to EV mode when I am braking to come to a stop light. Then from time to time it will stay on when I am at the stop light but that is it. Most times it stays on gas engine mode. When it stays in EV mode as i come to a stop and stays on, as soon as I gently accelerate forward and the EV goes off and I am back in gas engine mode. So as a result, I am not economizing and I am putting more gasoline end products in to the air than I have to. As a result, my search for a solution brought me to your forum post and thank you again for figuring this out. I am a 69 year old gent who has only fair computer skills so I am hesitant to try this my self, having a mild fear that I will do damage to my black beauty.  I simply love this vehicle's bells and whistles. The ride is a little stiff but other things make up for it. 

 

So any way, if we could do this Saturday or Sunday go ahead and name the time and I will be here. Also, can you post your address for those on this post who want to send you a gift card in appreciation for your time. Feel free to suggest how much of a gift card you want me to send to you. Also,  let me know what you want to do in preparation for the FIX and I will confirm when it has been done. Then give me a time (CST) this weekend as to when you want me on line. I continue to be fully employed so time would be tight on Friday. Also text me if you would be so kind so we have a backup portal on which to communicate in case I fumble the hand off. 

 

Again, if you would text me or call me at (763) 742-4747 that would be great. Hats off to you for what you have had the intellect and curiosity to uncover for the rest of the Ford Fusion Hybrid community. We are eternally grateful. 

 

Dean Peterson

Woodbury MN

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 6/15/2019 at 10:43 PM, allen84 said:

So you're getting pissed off at the Hybrid function, not working correctly anymore as it once used to, or very rare instances of it working, but not the way you've been used to anymore.  It basically makes hypermiling near impossible.   That is because Ford has programmed into the car's hybrid system, a high voltage battery age date which makes you believe you have to service or change out the HVB battery pack.  This is most likely a precaution from the company itself to limit the batteries usefulness at it approaches the end of its life as the battery capacity has dropped from the years gone by. I believe this is to relieve stress from the ageing HVB which in turn will use your Internal Combustion Engine a lot more often, which defeats the purpose of word Hybrid. 

 

From what I have seen in the Forscan program, it looks like the 15-years is the max date and the end mark for the battery in the hybrid system.  Reaching this point is anyone's guess.  It could have a message popping up on the dash saying something like "replace HVB battery now" or the HVB system ceases to function, and you just have a regular gasoline car.

 

So here is what I did to fix (or temporarily for now?) to restore the Hybrid EV function as you once remembered it. (This method should work from 2010-2012 Ford Fusion Hybrid and should work on most likely 2010-2012 Lincoln MKZ Hybrid, & 2010-2012 Mercury Milan Hyrbid as well (According to the Ford OASIS from Oct 3, 2019 these are the years affected).  I highly doubt this fix will work on the 2013+ because the chassis has gone through a major change, the computing system of the vehicle is not the same and may behave differently with the vehicle and other additional features are added to it not found in 2012 and below. They may not even exhibit the problem (Unless Ford really did screw everyone over by limiting the HVB's on all their hybrids ever produced.  Who knows?  I guess time will tell.  You will find out around in 8 or 9 years I guess)

 

 

You will need a few things to get started (or what I have used):

 

 

Step 1 - Gather the tools for the job

 

- A Windows laptop

- ODB II  (ELM327  HS-CAN / MS-CAN) device.

-ForScan software

 

The ODB II device I had on hand, which is a few years old, but it worked for me, is the brand/model BBFLY BF32302, you can buy this on Amazon for around $23 range (I'm sure you can use any other brand you choose and possibly cheaper, they have Bluetooth & wifi models.  Or you might already have an ODB II device)

 

 

https://www.amazon.com/bbfly-BF32302-modified-Windows-ELMconfig-Forscan/dp/B01N9R9QS2   USB model  (I used)   

 

If the other link sells out,  this is also another good one https://www.amazon.com/Veepeak-Scanner-Professional-Diagnostic-Programming/dp/B07S7W14X9?ref_=ast_sto_dp

 

Wifi model $29

https://www.amazon.com/bbfly-BB77105-ELM327-Modified-FORScan-Windows/dp/B076VPXPK5

 

***NOTE*** These are not affiliate links.  I get nothing from it when the product is bought.  These are just merely the products that I know I have no issues with it when using it.

 

 

 

Step 2 - Drivers & Software

 

Once you have your OBD II device, you will need to install drivers with the device to the laptop for it to work (instructions should be included inside the box on how to do it from the manufacturer of the device), it might be plug and play and the drivers might install on its own.

 

Next, you need the FORScan software:

 

https://forscan.org/download.html   

 

I downloaded/used the FORScan version 2.3.22 beta for Windows.  Next, you need to activate the software.  Create a free member account on their forum to get the activation file key.  there is a 2 free month trial.  (even if it expires, you can just make another again to re-activate)  Here is a 1-minute youtube video of how to activate the software with ease:

 

 

 

STEP 3 - Programming in your vehicle.

 

Under your steering wheel, is a small square cover.  Open the cover. It will reveal the port for the ODB.  Plug in the ODB II device into it.   

 

Next, insert your car keys, turn the key to the "ON" position (Don't start).   

 

(Sample picture of key positions)

kx6TPA9.png

 

 

 

 

 

Open the FORScan program.  Connect the device, a button below  (two plugs joining icon).   Once you connect, you will be instructed to create a profile,  just follow the onscreen steps.  If you get a message about the MS-CAN setting on the ODB II device,  it is the toggle switch on my ODB device,  I had it switched toggled towards the wire of the ODB II device.

 

3GMZVBi.jpg?1

 

 

 

 

 

 

Next, on the left-hand side of the program with the icons, go to the one with the CPU processor looking icon (5th one down), click on it, and you will be brought to this screen. on the Configuration and Programming tab, highlight the "BECM  Module Configuration" and go hover your mouse pointer over to the "blue play button" icon below and press it.  

 

uHSo2DG.jpg?1

 

 

 

 

 

 

Next is this section you will see.  Highlight the "Config battery age" (double click on it, can't remember this is just from my memory) and press the play button icon again,

 

(the screen is cut off on the right side of the picture, but for me, it said (The values might differ for some people or may say the same for you, but I'm guessing this is the info it shows after 9+ years):

Name                                                                   Value

Config battery age                                             error

Config battery end life counter                        Module configuration

Config charge since rebalance                        error

config hybrid battery state of charge             error

config hybrid battery state of charge 2          error

 

Just choose the "config battery age"    

 

(I didn't change the other settings on that list, as I don't know what to do that might screw it up, so I didn't play around with it.  You can go into it and see it, but I didn't save any of those changes.  I guess in time I will find out more info or learn when I have time to tinker some more.  I would love to get rid of all the error values) 

 

BnePJgD.jpg?1

 

 

 

 

 

Next, you will see this screen, it looks like I was about to hit the 10-year mark (yours might be lower or higher than this number, this is just a running counter in their system to keep track of the approaching total of years for the HVB.

 

IAq1Jg1.jpg?1

 

 

 

 

 

 

Select the  "2400 - 1"  and hit the "blue checkmark box" 

 

(although technically the 0 - 0 year would work, but the auto techs at the dealers that have been fixing it, have been choosing year 1.  So I will just choose that)

 

oN8R2RN.jpg?1

 

 

 

 

 

Next, it will take you back to the list of 5 config battery options,  hit the "write" button below, and then this window will come up.  hit the blue checkmark button to confirm

 

dgN4iIu.jpg?1

 

 

 

Done!  here is the last window popup you will see confirming the change. 

 

AGZj4uv.jpg?1

 

 

 

Click on the top icon on the left-hand side (car with the letter i in a bubble icon),  Then press on the un-connect icon below (circled in red), to un-connect the vehicle from the program

 

1VliyAu.png

 

 

 

 

Close the program, and then unplug the ODBII device.  Cycle the ignition OFF and then back on as per the programming message you've just seen.   The results of the EV activating will be immediately noticed when you start to drive your car (within a minute or so. It may take a few minutes if it's too cold).  I hope this will help your problem fix your issue as it did for me,  This forum post was done from my memory, as I didn't really take any notes down, so I hope what I've posted is pretty accurate.   Please don't screw around with other settings.   if you want to change other settings for the vehicle, I suggest you search or ask questions on the Forscan forums.  there are guides on how to use the program to its full potential. There is a ton of info on there to do custom stuff (lights, upgrade sync, key programming if you lost original fob, etc), but that will be for another time for me. 

 

If you are happy and this solved your issue, and you happen to feel generous want to donate $ to me, I will happily accept lol (have PayPal).  But it's your choice, not forcing anyone to give anything to me.  I just want to spread the knowledge and help others out having this problem develop late in the car's ownership.  (I'm sure as time goes by, some dealers that do not know of this fix, will catch wind of this thread and offer this solution to their customers and make money for the dealer, hahaha.   

 

 

If anyone that owns this 2010, 2011, 2012? Ford Fusion Hybrid and lives in the Greater Toronto Area, and cannot find a dealer to do this, I can probably perform this for you if you'd like. 

 

 

 

 

Edited by Keneke
posted wrong spot
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank You sooooo much Mr. Allen, I don't do computers very well so it got a little sticky for me getting the License over to the right spot, had to find a computer savvy freind to make the connection, but beyond my personal limitations, this worked marvelously...sending the new Hybrid battery back.... :) !

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Allen ---------------  Many thanks for helping me through this today. The check is (yes it is) in the mail. You are an amazing and intelligent person. Nice corresponding with you .....so happy that I have my EV mode back. It was so much fun to drive this hybrid again after the FIX. I was out on the roadway re-learning how to drive this hybrid and gone so long my wife thought I had taken a stop at Home Depot. Not true. Just amazed to see the performance change it was difficult to turn in to the driveway....Thanks again Allen. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank You Allen, I have a 2010 Milan was five years old when I bought it and I can't say I remember it Hybriding (?) so efficiently since Iv'e owned it... do you think it is a progressive thing? 

  I asked the service manager at the the local Ford dealer and he was unaware of it, said he had a car like that a little while back that they could not fix...he knows how now...so does the battery dealer that sold me the battery that I returned, I didn't see this post until after I bought a new battery so it cost me 400 bucks to give the thing a ride around the U.S...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Keneke said:

Thank You Allen, I have a 2010 Milan was five years old when I bought it and I can't say I remember it Hybriding (?) so efficiently since Iv'e owned it... do you think it is a progressive thing? 

  I asked the service manager at the the local Ford dealer and he was unaware of it, said he had a car like that a little while back that they could not fix...he knows how now...so does the battery dealer that sold me the battery that I returned, I didn't see this post until after I bought a new battery so it cost me 400 bucks to give the thing a ride around the U.S...

 

I don't think it is a progressive problem.  The fact that it misled me to believe it gradually went bad because I noticed it happening in the winter, and it was expected of me that it behaves like this in the cold until it became warmer outside again.  But I think it would be an instant change and more noticeable if it had happened to me in the summer, and I would've taken action and research much sooner.

And as for Ford, who really knows if the knew about this problem and it was an act of planned obsolescence, or they actually were in the dark like us.   But as a business, they will just deny it and/or give hope to the public that a fix is on the way or hopefully people give up on it and forget about it.  It's not worth it to them for the amount of them sold and it is a 10-year-old car.   I'd imagine most dealers will not be truthful and possibly play dumb, denying any problem with it, because, like any business, they need to make money and they will not hesitate to get business from you, even it means they can sell you something as expensive as a new battery, and not expect your average joe to know the fix.

Edited by allen84
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

This is really exciting. I'd love to try this with my 2010 FFH (130k). Let's get started....

 

I have an OBDII Reader!

 

I have a Windows laptop!

 

I downloaded FORScan!

 

I plugged my Ancel AD310 into my laptop using a USB - to - mini com port cable. The Ancel lights up and says "USB Connected  Update Ready"!

 

<<<< FAIL - Because Nothing Is Ever As Easy As It Looks Online >>>>

 

When I open FORScan it doesn't find the Ancel. When I try to find out if the Ancel can connect to FORScan or how to do it, I find nothing online. Help?

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The document looks to be missing. What is the TSB Number?

 

Never mind - I had to join that other site to access the document. It is TSB. 20-2142. I called the dealership (the same one I bought the car new from in 2009) and they want $115 to reprogram.

 

I have a call into Ford Customer Relations to ask them to cover the cost of the fix. We’ll see if they do right by me - I kinda doubt it.

 

It really aggravates me that Ford is acknowledging a design defect in the programming but still expects customers to pay for the fix out of warranty. It just doesn’t seem like a good way to treat customers.

Edited by mirak
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...