My instructions on restoring the hybrid EV function on the Ford Fusion Hybrid approaching the 8/9+ years mark.

[md40022]

Did the fix last night. My battery was showing over 11 years of age. Set it back to 1 year.  And this morning I took it for the first drive since making the change. To layout the scenario, it was a 12 mile city drive that normally takes me about 30 minutes. Cold Chicago morning, about 19 degrees outside . I reset the fuel economy tracker thing upon first starting the car, and after resetting it I then let the car run for about 5 minutes with the window defroster blasting and the ICE running to get the frost off my windows. So I'm sure that has a negative effect on the gas mileage as it's burning gas but not actually moving. I did have the heat running over the course of the entire trip as well. I then started my trip and it did run in EV mode for 2 or 3 separate short segments. Once the engine was warm it seemed to go into EV mode consistently at stop lights, but the bulk of the actual travel was with the ICE. Those 2 or 3 short segments of EV mode are more than it has ever done before......  When I arrived at work, my final mileage on that trip was 28.7 mpg. That is definitely better than it has ever been (I seemed to be around 24-25mpg previously making this exact same trip). I'd imagine if I didn't have 5 minutes of running the ICE at a standstill while defrosting windows, and if I didn't have the heat running for the entire trip that I'd probably be over 30mpg...... Which I believe I should be happy with for city driving?  My guess is when spring hits is when I will really notice the change.

 

The one noticeable change on the dashboard is the HVB gauge showed lower levels than it has shown before. Prior to making this fix the gauge always showed the battery anywhere from maybe 60%-85% or so. I noticed this time it seemed to fluctuate between maybe 40%-65% or so. I didn't like seeing it dip down to 40% or so since I never saw that before, but from what I've read up to this point a 40%-60% fluctuation is how it's supposed to be and that is "better" than it being up at 100%?  Hopefully that's normal.

 

I'm an absolute rookie with this car. I've owned it for less than 2 weeks and since I'm not the original owner I don't know how the Hybrid and EV modes "should normally be". So if anything I mentioned above sounds wrong or not good, please let me know.

Edited February 2, 2021 by md40022

[Spirit10]

"So if anything I mentioned above sounds wrong or not good, please let me know."

 

I'd say you are too far north for this time of year  Move south young man, move south. ? (Sorry, couldn't resist)

 

Seriously, it'll improve when it warms up.  No, not my humor, but your MPG.  Also, you will learn to back off the throttle to allow it to go into EV.  For example, after acceleration to speed at 30 - 45 on the flat, back off on the gas pedal slightly allowing it shift into EV, then use gentle throttle re-application.  When transitioning through a parking lot, use gentle throttle.  When the computer detects your throttle movements are demanding more acceleration power than the electric motor can provide it will start the ICE.  It takes a little training of your driving style to maximize.  The "leaves" will grow on the right side dash display as you start learning to drive better.  I'll consistently get a couple of MPG more than my better half, typically by the gentle easing of the pedal and anticipation of red lights.

 

BTW, Sometimes I'll see the EV  battery just about empty, and other times with a lot of down hill, completely full.

 

YMMV

Edited February 2, 2021 by Spirit10

[DenverPed]

Totally agree. Weather extremes both very hot and very cold decrease the mileage a bit. Short drives in cold weather are killer since the water temp never gets up enough to shut off the ICE. I have the same experience, I can get 3-4 MPG more than my wife who pays no attention to the hybrid function. It is easy to get near 40MPG consistently with this car. Use the speed control on the highway and get off the accelerator. I also use the Empower mode on the dashboard settings to see more of what the hybrid is doing. Don’t like the leafs. Definite learning curve but a very good hybrid. Bought it new almost 12 years ago and hard to let it go now that the fix was done. 

[Spirit10]

Here's results of today's errands after applying the fix to the car about a year ago.  Bought the car (Milan hybrid) new back in '10.  Much warmer location down south being about 60 this AM when I was thinking about my errands for the day .  Upper 70's by afternoon.  Gone most of day with a mix of city streets, some interstate, some metropolis business US highways with stop lights every 1/2 mile or so on the business highway. Climate control set to auto so maybe a smidge of heat as I started but A/C most of the rest of the day.

 

Reset MPG/Trip meter as I started the car to leave. Couple miles meandering to get to business US Highway with 45 sometimes 35 MPH speed limit and stop lights as one small locality runs into the next one as if just one continuous strip of businesses and side streets.  Stopped and visited a friend for an hour or more.  Then departing again being about 10 miles of driving since starting the car. 40.3 MPG as shown near stop light ready for the expressway.

 

RESET MPG and Trip as ready for interstate on ramp for about 12 miles of interstate 65-70 MPH road.  44.3 MPG.

 

Continued with all my errands, groceries, gas, and many multiple stops.  No more resets.  Mix of US business highway and city streets ending back at the start.  About 73 miles since the reset as I first entered the expressway.  44.4 MPG over the 72.8 miles.  I think it is still a great car.  ?

 

If they attach, dash pictures to illustrate today.

 

FWIW

 

 

 

[md40022]

Thanks for sharing! On my way home from work I reset the mpg meter AFTER I was done defrosting windows and ready to actually hit the road, and got home at 39.8 mpg - and that was with the heat running. So I think all is looking good here for sure.

 

Part of me is wondering if the seller of the car was having problems with EV mode not working, maybe took it to a mechanic who couldn't figure it out or he just made an assumption that the HVB was on its way out, and maybe thats why he sold it for a low price.... I don't want to jinx myself, but if all it took was this forscan battery reset then this might be a heck of a car here!

Edited February 3, 2021 by md40022

[lolder]

Read the Owners Manual and Owners Quick Guide twice. If you don't have them they are available on-line. 50% is the normal HVB level except when going down long hills or coasting on long off ramps or an approximately yearly event called reconditioning where it goes to 100% for about 20 minutes and the ICE does not shut off. Read about all the menus on the dash. There are 6 different mileage indicators including a trip meter that you don't have to reset that appears at each shutdown. There are 4 different dash displays, the best being "Empower". 

[Ffhybridowner]

I took my 2012 fusion to the dealer with the tsb202142 (that they never heard about) for the Reduced electric vehicle Operation . They say they reset the pcm and becm. When i got the vehicle back it was like new again. But sadly it didn't stick. A day later it was back to not staying in ev mode. Anyone else that has taken their car to the dealership for this have this problem or did it work for you?

[md40022]

I didn't go through the dealer, but since making the adjustment myself a few weeks ago there is definite improvement. It definitely does NOT "stay" in EV mode for any type of extended periods of time, but it's really hard for me to gauge that given we are dealing with a terrible stretch of weather right now and the heat is pretty much cranking constantly and batteries are probably impacted by the cold somewhat. When you say that yours is not staying in EV mode, I will agree that mine doesnt either. But none the less there is definite improvement in my MPG since making the change. I don't know where you're located, but if you're dealing with a really nasty winter I think you might have to wait until spring before drawing any final conclusion...... at least that's kind of how I feel about it.

 

My day-to-day for these last few weeks is starting the car cold in temperatures below 10 degrees (Chicago winter). Letting it sit for a few minutes while the defrost blasts and I scrape my windows. Then making a 12 mile trip to work while running the heat. I'm 75% of the way to my destination before EV mode even shows itself for the first time. This morning I did 26 MPG - which isn't great but given the scenario I just mentioned it's probably to be expected. On my way home from work things are a little better since it's a little warmer outside and I don't have to waist as much time defrosting windows before starting that 12 mile trip. I normally get about 50% of the way home before EV mode shows up, and I tend to be around 30-31 MPG...... My assumption is when the weather breaks that I can hopefully be in the mid 30s with the MPG and at that point, it's really hard to complain. But through all of this, I dont think I've even "stood" in EV mode for maybe more than a 1 mile stretch of road at a time. Prior to making the change in the computer though, EV mode didn't even seem to exist for me.

[POB in VA]

Hello - regarding the winter and mileage, though we're NOTHING like our friends in Chicago it's been pretty cold here in VA, too (relatively speaking, of course!!).  But absolutely mileage is going to drop in the cold (or for us down here, in the heat/humidity we have in the summer and the A/C is running full blast, though I know that Chicago can get hot, too!).  Unlike Tesla vehicles or any totally EV, our cars do use the ICE for our comfort, and the price paid is lower mileage.  But there's more to it than that.  I, too, in this cold snap have experienced lower MPG's, but I'm the sole owner of my car, bought it off the lot in late 2010, so I've watched this cycle for 10 years now.  Starting in late fall, as I start to use the heater more AND (see below) the ambient temps start cooling down I see a slow, steady drop in MPG that lasts until spring.  Then there's what I call the "golden months" for mileage - spring and early fall, where temps are moderate, no heat or A/C needed, and the car is in its glory days; for those several months I see my highest MPG's.  From something I read a long time ago when researching my purchase,  one of the tricks FoMoCo engineers apparently used was using the car's climate control system to keep the battery as close to possible to its "sweet spot."  What they apparently found/realized is that batteries have a happy zone very similar to us people.  That is, they most efficiently release electrons (power) at ambient temperatures that we humans like.  Under the rear seat (vertical panel) of our cars is a vent - that's there to take cabin air to the battery as opposed to the complexity, weight and cost of a separate climate control system for the battery itself.  Battery efficiency (and mileage) is not just related to the use of heating and A/C, however.  Heating requires the ICE; the heaters in our cars is just like any other ICE car on the road - engine heat is taken from the engine cooling system via the coolant to heat the cabin - it's not an electrical heater like in a Tesla, or A/C.  If we want heat 1st thing in the a.m., the engine's gonna run to warm up the coolant and MPG's will go down.  BUT - the battery's efficiency itself is related to environmental temperature, regardless of heater or A/C use.  In those polar temperatures you guys get up in the Windy City, even if you didn't use your heater at all (don't want to think about that!!) the battery simply cannot release electrons with the same efficiency as it does in moderate temperatures.  Basically, it's "frozen" just like we are.  So if you have to "go," the ICE HAS to run more ( = lower MPG) because the battery simply cannot contribute its "full share" to the energy requirements of the movement.  Fully EV cars like Tesla experience basically their equivalent to our ICE use - decreased range.  They don't have an ICE to help out, so that less efficient energy release is reflected in reduced range - not as much of a charge can get out of the battery in the first place.  That's why EV ranges (and MPG's for hybrids) are expressed in maximums under perfect test conditions.  "Ideal temperature and pressure" in chemical parlance.  Rarely does any car (even regular ones) get the ideal mileage that the companies advertise.  Remember all the jokes about EPA mileage estimates on the stickers?  Sure, going downhill with a tail wind and maybe even someone pushing; no heater, no A/C, windows up for lowest resistance, etc.  Hopefully that helps to understand the natural drop in MPG associated with temp extremes (either way, hot/cold, currently cold).  So I'd suggest waiting until spring comes to see if you're getting the full benefit of the "fix."  I did the "self fix" from Allen 84 (genius!), too, and it has seemed to "stick" but I am noticing the seasonal drop anyway.

[DenverPed]

POB in Va has put together an excellent summary which perfectly reflects my experience. I bought my FFH new in 2010. I have seen many seasons with the best mileage always in Spring and Fall. I live in Denver so the extremes of weather are far less than Chicago. (I grew up in Wisconsin). My car also loves a drive on Cruise Control at about 65-68MPH. Interstate speeds of 75-80 also cut the mileage down even in mild weather. 

[Spirit10]

See my post of Feb 2nd with the dash pictures showing the MPG info of 44+ over a course of 70+ miles with mixed freeway speeds of 65-70 and local highways and city streets. Recently took a fast 1100 mile two day trip on 4 lane roads usually at 75-78 MPH and trip mileage dropped to 37 point something.  Back in town now but cold mid 30's to 40's and slowly average is creeping back up to 40.  Haven't reset it from the trip.

 

[lolder]

In HEVs, ( not PHEVs ) all the energy comes from fuel. The "ICE-generator-charge-discharge-motor-wheels" energy path of the EV cycle has more loss than the "ICE-wheels" path so EV should be AVOIDED above 40-50 mph. Higher speeds cost 6 mpg per 10 mph. Lower temperatures cost 2 mpg per 10º F. Headwinds ( and some crosswinds ) cost up to 3mpg per 10 mph. Noisy roads can cost 2 mpg. Heavy rain can cost up to 10 mpg. AC can cost over 10 mpg for a few minutes in a heat soaked car tappering off to 1-2 mpg. These effects are mostly cumulative and the inverse effects are also true.

These are reasons the ICE may run:

1: Low HVB
2: HVB reconditioning ( 2010-12 )
3: Evaporative emmissions check at start up
4: Speed over 46-62-86 mph depending on model and software.
5: Higher power demand such as acceleration
6: Cabin heater demand
7: Warmup of catalytic converter when cold and speed above 12 mph. ( 2010-12 )
8: Use of "L" gear
9: The ICE is motorized with no fuel flow when coasting down steep hills and speed exceeds 46 mph or at any speed while brake depressed and HVB becomes full. For instance if you are coasting at 60 mph and put on the brake, when regen is not sufficient the brake pedal will call for higher motorizing rpm for compression or "jack" braking.?

[POB in VA]

Hi DenverPed, thank you so much.  I'm not an engineer by any means, but I read about the practical aspects of our vehicles both before and since purchase.  I agree - riding steady w/cruise on definitely gives good readings, though I think (and lolder's input addresses this) "moderate" speeds are truly the most efficient (e.g. around 35-40 mpg).  Locally I get my best MPG's during those magic, moderate seasons when I drive locally around town, e.g. store, etc.  That's the very best.

 

I'm guessing that lolder's knowledge on this is clearly above mine - EE? Automotive engineer?  There's a physical principle that no one can get around - there's NO perfect transfer/use of energy; we're always in a losing game in converting energy to what we want - motion.  The energy itself is conserved (conservation of energy - closed system) but it's traded in various ways.  For example an incandescent light bulb.  Energy goes in from the plug and it's (primarily) converted to light (with an incandescent the minority of that input energy) and HEAT.  Conversely with braking kinetic energy is converted to a great extent to heat energy (brakes HOT!).  We can restore battery power in our cars by coasting downhill or using regenerative braking, but getting UP that hill or UP to that speed required ENERGY, and ultimately that does come (in our cars) from good old gasoline.  That, of course, ultimately came from sunshine, but we digress.

 

lolder gave us a much more detailed analysis (which was very educational, BTW).  Boy, the first time my car went into HVB reconditioning (point #2) I didn't know what was going on!  That gets the old ICE going, for sure.  My reply, however, was by no means meant to be exhaustive (what I don't know exceeds what I do in this area!) but simply to address another poster's comments about the effects of cold and my historic observations of my own vehicle over 10 years of driving it in various seasons.  Distilling it to non-engineering simplicity, it's that nothing (e.g. heat or A/C) is free, it costs gas (and more gas used per distance = lower MPG) AND that there's in inherent energy transfer efficiency that in a good part is related to ambient temperature of the battery itself - electron transfer is better or worse at varying temperatures, cold (which was the poster's observation) or hot.

 

I love learning from other folks on this great forum!

[akirby]

1 hour ago, lolder said:

In HEVs, ( not PHEVs ) all the energy comes from fuel. The "ICE-generator-charge-discharge-motor-wheels" energy path of the EV cycle has more loss than the "ICE-wheels" path so EV should be AVOIDED above 40-50 mph.

 

This is also why the Chevy Volt had worse mpg than other hybrids when running in HEV mode (battery depleted).   It's less efficient for the engine to create electrical power to run the motor than it is to let the engine directly power the wheels.

[Elastopithecus]

Hi Allen,

Like everyone else here, I'm suffering the no EV issue.  Thanks so much for your post!  I have a question that maybe should be answered by FORScan but let me try here first since this seems to be a very knowledgeable group:

 

You had mentioned in the beginning that a license key needs to either be purchased or you can use the 2-month version.  Although I haven't downloaded anything yet, I did go to their website and they say that the "standard" key is included as part of the software.  The extended key is has access to some special  (hidden, etc.) features such as programming the key (which I don't need).

 

This issue requires configuring the BECM but I can't tell from what either you or FORScan has shown so far if the extended key is really necessary for resetting the battery age timer on a 2010 Fusion hybrid.  Did you already try it and found the extended key is necessary for this?  Any thoughts or suggestions?

 

Thanks,

Steve

(Elastopithecus is the old dog's nickname)

Edited February 20, 2021 by Elastopithecus

[allen84]

4 hours ago, Elastopithecus said:

Hi Allen,

Like everyone else here, I'm suffering the no EV issue.  Thanks so much for your post!  I have a question that maybe should be answered by FORScan but let me try here first since this seems to be a very knowledgeable group:

 

You had mentioned in the beginning that a license key needs to either be purchased or you can use the 2-month version.  Although I haven't downloaded anything yet, I did go to their website and they say that the "standard" key is included as part of the software.  The extended key is has access to some special  (hidden, etc.) features such as programming the key (which I don't need).

 

This issue requires configuring the BECM but I can't tell from what either you or FORScan has shown so far if the extended key is really necessary for resetting the battery age timer on a 2010 Fusion hybrid.  Did you already try it and found the extended key is necessary for this?  Any thoughts or suggestions?

 

Thanks,

Steve

(Elastopithecus is the old dog's nickname)

 

From their FAQ:

 

What is Extended License, why and when do I need it?

Extended License provides access to Configuration and Programming functions of FORScan, and also few Service functions (such as PATS programming). Base FORScan functionality (connection, retrieving vehicle information, reading parameters, read and reset diagnostic trouble codes, run tests and service functions etc) do NOT require Extended License. There is a free 2 month Extended License that can be issued for anyone who has account on our forum. Also there are paid longterm and lifelong licenses. 

 

 

Downloading the FORScan program is "standard" licensed by default.  All it can do on Standard is retrieve vehicle information, reading parameters, read and reset diagnostic trouble codes, run tests and service functions.

 

the "Configuration and Programming" tab functions are making changes and edits to the car's computer data.  Yes, as you mentioned, programming keys or in this case you want to change the battery age.  It falls within this category, which the Extended license is required.


Since I was basically approved as a member of their forum within 1 hour of the request, generating the 2 month free trial license right after was the easiest thing to do and I had the program activated "extended" mode within minutes.  So, I never really had a reason to try it out on "standard" mode.

 

I've read a person here pages back, that they've tried to change the battery age on Standard and couldn't do it.  I've also read some members here were taking a while to be approved by the FORScan mods, and they grew impatient.  I helped a few on here by generating the trial extended keys for them, and emailed the key to them so they can activate it and use it.  If this is the problem you're currently experiencing because of your member approval times at FORScan forums,  I can make the Extended key for you if you want.

[Elastopithecus]

10 hours ago, allen84 said:

 

From their FAQ:

 

What is Extended License, why and when do I need it?

Extended License provides access to Configuration and Programming functions of FORScan, and also few Service functions (such as PATS programming). Base FORScan functionality (connection, retrieving vehicle information, reading parameters, read and reset diagnostic trouble codes, run tests and service functions etc) do NOT require Extended License. There is a free 2 month Extended License that can be issued for anyone who has account on our forum. Also there are paid longterm and lifelong licenses. 

 

 

Downloading the FORScan program is "standard" licensed by default.  All it can do on Standard is retrieve vehicle information, reading parameters, read and reset diagnostic trouble codes, run tests and service functions.

 

the "Configuration and Programming" tab functions are making changes and edits to the car's computer data.  Yes, as you mentioned, programming keys or in this case you want to change the battery age.  It falls within this category, which the Extended license is required.


Since I was basically approved as a member of their forum within 1 hour of the request, generating the 2 month free trial license right after was the easiest thing to do and I had the program activated "extended" mode within minutes.  So, I never really had a reason to try it out on "standard" mode.

 

I've read a person here pages back, that they've tried to change the battery age on Standard and couldn't do it.  I've also read some members here were taking a while to be approved by the FORScan mods, and they grew impatient.  I helped a few on here by generating the trial extended keys for them, and emailed the key to them so they can activate it and use it.  If this is the problem you're currently experiencing because of your member approval times at FORScan forums,  I can make the Extended key for you if you want. 

Allen,

I'm glad you're still monitoring this discussion!  I may take you up on your offer of a temporary key if needed but I'm not to that point yet.  Last night I ordered a $20 USB code reader for Ford products from Amazon that they say works with FORScan and other apps.  I should be good to go with that and my Dell Windows 10 laptop.  Once I try and hopefully succeed, I'll post details about which device I bought and what I experienced to add to the discussion knowledge base here.

 

BTW, would you or anyone else in this discussion be interested if I wrote and posted a short "dissertation" about what re-balancing is and why it's necessary?  I don't know all the details but I can at least provide a basic understanding about what it is.

Thanks again for what you've done!

-Steve

[Spirit10]

Re: "BTW, would you or anyone else in this discussion be interested if I wrote and posted a short "dissertation" about what re-balancing is and why it's necessary? "

 

I think that would make a nice new topic in a new thread.

[md40022]

In regards to the extended license vs. the standard, I am of the understanding that the standard will allow you to view things, but not change them. Meaning you can read check engine codes and view your HVB's age and what not, but not actually make a change. So although I did not try it, I don't think you'd be able to make the change to the HVB life with just the standard.

 

When I signed up for the extended license free-trial, I was approved right away. In less than an hour. I ordered the USB device from Amazon as well and immediately downloaded ForScan and applied for the 2 month free trial of the extended license. I then received the approval for the extended license within an hour tops. A day or two later I had my amazon order and it was as smooth a process as could be.

[Elastopithecus]

1 hour ago, md40022 said:

In regards to the extended license vs. the standard, I am of the understanding that the standard will allow you to view things, but not change them. Meaning you can read check engine codes and view your HVB's age and what not, but not actually make a change. So although I did not try it, I don't think you'd be able to make the change to the HVB life with just the standard.

 

When I signed up for the extended license free-trial, I was approved right away. In less than an hour. I ordered the USB device from Amazon as well and immediately downloaded ForScan and applied for the 2 month free trial of the extended license. I then received the approval for the extended license within an hour tops. A day or two later I had my amazon order and it was as smooth a process as could be.

MD, thanks!  What you and Allen have said makes total sense regarding the extended license.  I'll definitely get the temp key and see how it goes and then I'll probably spend a few bucks if it's not too much to have the capability to deal with other issues in the future without the hassle of getting another temp key.  I also have a soft spot for small software companies that spend a lot of time and effort to write the code for this stuff *if* it's not crazy expensive ($30--$40 range).

 

A disclaimer about the re-balancing dissertation:

While I am an electronic engineer, my main experience is with medical device failure analysis and semiconductors but I'm *not* an expert in hybrid and EV electrical systems.  I do know something just because I'm a curious sort.  This is also to say that I'm almost never a social media and discussion group participant.  I do want to contribute something useful for anyone interested but I will have to "research" how to create a new topic and a new thread.  I'm sure it's easy but I've never done it!

-Steve

Edited February 21, 2021 by Elastopithecus

[lolder]

The Volt was a series/parallel planetary gear hybrid but in a different arrangement than the Toyota/Ford hybrid to avoid their patents. The Volt arrangement was not as elegant or efficient and may even have had an electric clutch. Toyota/Ford eCVTs have no clutches, bands, belts, brakes or torque converters. They are just two motors hooked up to the planetary gear, the ICE and the wheels with nothing but gears. Hardly anything to wear. My current Tesla Model 3 is even simpler. It is, IMO,  the most advanced device on the planet

[swechsler]

10 hours ago, lolder said:

The Volt was a series/parallel planetary gear hybrid but in a different arrangement than the Toyota/Ford hybrid to avoid their patents. The Volt arrangement was not as elegant or efficient and may even have had an electric clutch. Toyota/Ford eCVTs have no clutches, bands, belts, brakes or torque converters. They are just two motors hooked up to the planetary gear, the ICE and the wheels with nothing but gears. Hardly anything to wear. My current Tesla Model 3 is even simpler. It is, IMO,  the most advanced device on the planet

Had nothing to do with patents; there are many other hybrids on the market from different manufacturers (e.g. Nissan, Honda, and even some from GM) that use a similar design to what Ford and Toyota use, without patent issues. The Volt was purposely a series hybrid because it was meant to be seen as an electric vehicle that also had an engine to extend its range. Elegance is debatable, but GM has its own set of patents for the tech in the Volt.

[akirby]

1 hour ago, swechsler said:

Had nothing to do with patents; there are many other hybrids on the market from different manufacturers (e.g. Nissan, Honda, and even some from GM) that use a similar design to what Ford and Toyota use, without patent issues. The Volt was purposely a series hybrid because it was meant to be seen as an electric vehicle that also had an engine to extend its range. Elegance is debatable, but GM has its own set of patents for the tech in the Volt.

You nailed it - range extender.  The idea was you could swap out the ICE range extender for just about anything - diesel, fuel cell, propane, etc since it’s just charging the battery.  Of course GM never took advantage of all that.  I think a regular PHEV with a 50 mile range would have been much better.     But like most things GM does it was a one and done thing rather than a technology used across multiple vehicles and platforms.

[lolder]

2 hours ago, swechsler said:

Had nothing to do with patents; there are many other hybrids on the market from different manufacturers (e.g. Nissan, Honda, and even some from GM) that use a similar design to what Ford and Toyota use, without patent issues. The Volt was purposely a series hybrid because it was meant to be seen as an electric vehicle that also had an engine to extend its range. Elegance is debatable, but GM has its own set of patents for the tech in the Volt.

The volt wasn't what GM claimed. It could also operate in parallel mode. None of the other manufacturers transmissions are like Toyota/Ford's except Nissan which licensed it.

[akirby]

41 minutes ago, lolder said:

The volt wasn't what GM claimed. It could also operate in parallel mode. None of the other manufacturers transmissions are like Toyota/Ford's except Nissan which licensed it.

I thought both Toyota and Ford (maybe Nissan) used an Aisin e-CVT.  It was the software that was proprietary not the hardware.