My instructions on restoring the hybrid EV function on the Ford Fusion Hybrid approaching the 8/9+ years mark.

[sreeves]

First, thanks for posting the "fix." Perhaps it was coincidence but my steering gear failed late last year at the same time that my mileage dropped down to an average 32mpg from the mid 30s and then a week later down below 28mpg in late November last year.

 

On 12/23/2021 at 3:58 AM, asicking said:

These numbers, in the 30s are very surprising to me. My 2010 hybrid dropped to the mid-30s BEFORE I applied the fix about 2 years ago then jumped to low 40s for the almost 75k miles I drove following the fix. 

 

Unfortunately my 2010 FFH has never gotten above the mid 30s in mpg though I do live in the mountain state of Colorado. After resetting the battery date this week I am back up in the 34 mpg range (I purchased in late 2010). I have read through the whole forum and drive the vehicle correctly to maximize mpg so I am waiting to see if the rebalance cycle helps to get higher. I have also had the wrench come on at highway speeds for many years but without any noticeable issues or codes detected. If anyone has any other suggestions please let me know.

 

I am surprised no one on here has mentioned any other major issues with the 2010 FFH. Perhaps they have been addressed elsewhere on this forum but I wanted to mention a couple other issues in case anybody has similar problems. The first one was the most dangerous and was related to a sensor where a message showed "pull over safely now" and the engine would shut off, which was quite scary. Once I pulled over, I could put my vehicle in park and restart. Any reason why Ford would prevent this vehicle from restart in neutral like any other vehicle? Thankfully the sensor was replaced under warranty. A second sensor issue that I had caused my ac to be stuck in the heating defrost cycle. I temporarily installed a resistor behind the glove compartment to fool the sensor before I was able to get the sensor replaced. This temporary fix restored my ac but didn't prevent ice from forming so I would have to turn off the ac occasionally. If anyone has any similar issues I would be happy to help out.

[Elie]

Hi Folks, I am new to hybrid cars and recently got a fusion hybrid se 2014. The car has a transmission noise, which turned out to be the trans fluid pump is bad which caused bearing noise. So I decided to buy a new transmission but waiting for it in shipping. I can drive it but it shuts off every other time and it gives me a warning triangle “stop safely now”. I did a diagnosis test with my OBD II scanner and it’s giving me the following codes: 

 

1) Secondary OBD Control Module C     P1A10-00 current/MIL Hybrid Powertrain Control Module Battery Disabled.

 

2) Ford BECM - Battery Energy Control Module Continuous Memory DTCs CM Not
POC30-00  current Hybrid Battery Pack State of Charge High.

 

3) Ford DC to DC Converter Control Module Continuous Memory DTCs CM Not current
POAFA-16 Hybrid Battery System Voltage
LOW - Circuit Voltage Below Threshold.

 

4) PCM - Power Steering Control Module
U3003-16 Current not stored
Battery Voltage Circuit Voltage Below Threshold.

 

5) IPC - Instrument Panel Control Module
CM Not current
U0401-00 Invalid Data Received From
(ECM)/(PCM).

I hope all these issued are caused by a bad trans but nothing else.
 

Did anyone faced this problem before?

 

 

 

[sreeves]

On 1/11/2022 at 5:52 AM, Elie said:

Hi Folks, I am new to hybrid cars and recently got a fusion hybrid se 2014. The car has a transmission noise, which turned out to be the trans fluid pump is bad which caused bearing noise. So I decided to buy a new transmission but waiting for it in shipping. I can drive it but it shuts off every other time and it gives me a warning triangle “stop safely now”. I did a diagnosis test with my OBD II scanner and it’s giving me the following codes: 

 

1) Secondary OBD Control Module C     P1A10-00 current/MIL Hybrid Powertrain Control Module Battery Disabled.

 

2) Ford BECM - Battery Energy Control Module Continuous Memory DTCs CM Not
POC30-00  current Hybrid Battery Pack State of Charge High.

 

3) Ford DC to DC Converter Control Module Continuous Memory DTCs CM Not current
POAFA-16 Hybrid Battery System Voltage
LOW - Circuit Voltage Below Threshold.

 

4) PCM - Power Steering Control Module
U3003-16 Current not stored
Battery Voltage Circuit Voltage Below Threshold.

 

5) IPC - Instrument Panel Control Module
CM Not current
U0401-00 Invalid Data Received From
(ECM)/(PCM).

I hope all these issued are caused by a bad trans but nothing else.
 

Did anyone faced this problem before?

 

 

 

I recommend posting this in a separate thread.

Edited January 15, 2022 by sreeves

[lolder]

Change the 12 vdc battery. That's the default action to take with multiple unconnected faults. It doesn't matter if the battery tests ok. The 2013+ FFHs had a problem with a bad bearing, It was not a transmission fluid pump. A recall should have been made but because it wasn't a safety issue Ford just waited out the warranty expirations. The transmissions are covered by the hybrid warranty for 8Y/100k m. or 10/150k m in CARB states. Are you under that warranty? Prior to 2013, Aisin, the Borg Warner of Japan made all of Ford's hybrid transmission. They were bullet proof. For 2013 Ford brought the manufacture in house and screwed it up. It looks identical to the Aisin but there were many bearing failures and also case seal leaks. I hope you don't have a problem with the replacement transmission digitally "hand-shaking" with the car. This is not a backyard mechanic project. Good luck.

[Thcawley]

A huge thanks to this, did the update today and first drive was noticeably better. Acceleration from stop showed no lag, and EV seemed to engage more normally, hoping it stays this way. Wish I had thought to look for this issue and solution earlier. 

[bradreaves]

It worked like a charm on my 2011 Fusion. I was saving for a new battery and ran across this $20 fix. Took 20 min to get forscan code. My car runs like brand new with 108k miles. I set it to 1 year. tysm

[tecchie]

thank you sir, this solution quickly fixed my ffh awesome fix

[jrloader67]

Allen84,

 

Just purchased a 2010 Fusion Hybrid with 131000 miles, and really keep in good shape I was lucky. Out of the box the EV just didn't seem right. We owned a Prius prior, so I knew something just didn't feel right with how the car was driving on just the engine even at a lower speed. Did some research and bam, found your forum and instructions on how to reset the battery. Bought the bbfly from Amazon you suggested, no issues and windows 10 auto installed the drivers. Only issue I had was that I downloaded the Forscan extended key to my main PC not the laptop I was going to use the software on. Resent the Forscan peeps for another key, got it in 30 minutes, loaded up the laptop, headed out to the fusion and Bingo Bango 5 minutes later the car drives like its brand new. I went from 30 mpg to over 42 mpg just like that after resetting MPG and EV settings. The EV is running at even 40 mph once I get to speed and feather the gas pedal down, battery is doing just as described and maintaining a perfect even charge.

 

I found a quote from a dealership in the owner's manual for a new battery and install priced at over $5000.00. Hence why he probably sold the car to the same dealership, and why the dealer had the car priced so low. I am so glad we purchased the car, and thank you so much the instructions, the suggestion on the bbfly, the links to everything, and how easy everything was to follow and was right on the money.

 

I joined just to thank you, but I am learning so much from all the great information throughout all the forums!

Edited April 15, 2022 by jrloader67

[znb808]

On 1/11/2022 at 4:52 AM, Elie said:

Hi Folks, I am new to hybrid cars and recently got a fusion hybrid se 2014. The car has a transmission noise, which turned out to be the trans fluid pump is bad which caused bearing noise. So I decided to buy a new transmission but waiting for it in shipping. I can drive it but it shuts off every other time and it gives me a warning triangle “stop safely now”. I did a diagnosis test with my OBD II scanner and it’s giving me the following codes: 

 

1) Secondary OBD Control Module C     P1A10-00 current/MIL Hybrid Powertrain Control Module Battery Disabled.

 

2) Ford BECM - Battery Energy Control Module Continuous Memory DTCs CM Not
POC30-00  current Hybrid Battery Pack State of Charge High.

 

3) Ford DC to DC Converter Control Module Continuous Memory DTCs CM Not current
POAFA-16 Hybrid Battery System Voltage
LOW - Circuit Voltage Below Threshold.

 

4) PCM - Power Steering Control Module
U3003-16 Current not stored
Battery Voltage Circuit Voltage Below Threshold.

 

5) IPC - Instrument Panel Control Module
CM Not current
U0401-00 Invalid Data Received From
(ECM)/(PCM).

I hope all these issued are caused by a bad trans but nothing else.
 

Did anyone faced this problem before?

 

 

 

Elie, Any luck with this issue? Were all the issues pertain to the transmission problem? Thanks

[Mmartini49]

Hello, all -- 72 yo little old lady here with a 2012 Lincoln Hybrid with the problem.  After not having any luck with the Lincoln dealer to even look at the TSB, I am trying this myself.  I am SOOOO  close.   I have the extended key, but apparently I need an activation code also.   How do I get this?

Thanks for your help.

 

edited the next day:   I paid the $12 to actually buy the extended license for a year, since I got stuck trying to activate my free extended license.   Finished off the "fix" and drove around the block - it seems to be working!!  Yay!   I'm going on a longer drive to really check it out.  

 

Allen -- send me your info so that I can contribute to your tip jar, please.  ?

 

 

Edited May 3, 2022 by Mmartini49
update the next day

[Bulldoze13]

take your  FFH to the local Ford dealer have them look up Technical Service Bulletin 20-2142 from April 2020, and have them perform the required service. This should restore the battery to original life span. My Dealer had our car tor 2 days and couldn't find anything wrong or any codes than showed any issues. I called back after some research and I found the TSB, the reset the battery life in less than an hour. The hybrid works just like new.

[mechaman]

I finally worked up the courage and found the time to do the fix, and having the meter stay in the green and the mileage go up is wonderful!!

[mechaman]

On 1/20/2022 at 10:02 AM, lolder said:

Change the 12 vdc battery. That's the default action to take with multiple unconnected faults. It doesn't matter if the battery tests ok. The 2013+ FFHs had a problem with a bad bearing, It was not a transmission fluid pump. A recall should have been made but because it wasn't a safety issue Ford just waited out the warranty expirations. The transmissions are covered by the hybrid warranty for 8Y/100k m. or 10/150k m in CARB states. Are you under that warranty? Prior to 2013, Aisin, the Borg Warner of Japan made all of Ford's hybrid transmission. They were bullet proof. For 2013 Ford brought the manufacture in house and screwed it up. It looks identical to the Aisin but there were many bearing failures and also case seal leaks. I hope you don't have a problem with the replacement transmission digitally "hand-shaking" with the car. This is not a backyard mechanic project. Good luck.

 

[mechaman]

This is oh, so true. A couple months ago, I was having a no start, multiple alarm condition off and on: the first time, I popped the hood and just by chance touched one of the battery terminals. LOOSE. Ok, I tighten it... and a couple days later, problem recurs. I tighten them again. Then I see that they both are still a bit loose?

I think the odd type of terminal clamps Ford used are the problem; you really can't tighten them like the old school clamps (which I happened to have, but couldn't put them in place of the OEM clamps) FORD, do better.

[allen84]

It is now exactly 3 years to this date, since I've discovered and performed the battery age reset.    The car is still going strong and the high voltage battery pack is still working just as well since i've bought it.   I did an oil change, complete brake job replacement recently (new calipers, rotors, pads, new brake fluid), and with the warmer weather now, my MPG has skyrockted.    Just did 975 km (600 miles) on full tank.  Not bad for a 12 year old car I guess.  Hopefully it can last a few more years (Which I think it can) when more options of EVs will flood the market from all the different auto manufacturers.

[FFH2010DF]

On 1/1/2020 at 1:23 PM, prdobson said:

 

 

Did anyone know at the time of purchase that their hybrid had an age limit on the effectiveness of EV mode?  I certainly was  not informed of the limit and as I have owned my cars for 15 years or more over the past 60 years  it would have been part of my considerations in purchasing the car. 

 

 

 

Ford may not have realized this either.  The fact that they had to create a TSB on the matter indicates they were caught flat footed for the problem.  The warranty for the battery is eight years, so they also may not have asked the question of "what could happen after eight years"?, as nothing would affect their costs.  Businesses are interested in the events that effect them, not the customer, and a ten year down the road problem during the height of the 200x recession was probably the last concern on Ford's plate at the time.  They were wondering if they would see the 20-teens as an ongoing concern.

 

 

 

 

 

Edited June 16, 2022 by FFH2010DF

[PaulGo]

9 hours ago, allen84 said:

It is now exactly 3 years to this date, since I've discovered and performed the battery age reset.    The car is still going strong and the high voltage battery pack is still working just as well since i've bought it.   I did an oil change, complete brake job replacement recently (new calipers, rotors, pads, new brake fluid), and with the warmer weather now, my MPG has skyrockted.    Just did 975 km (600 miles) on full tank.  Not bad for a 12 year old car I guess.  Hopefully it can last a few more years (Which I think it can) when more options of EVs will flood the market from all the different auto manufacturers.

Thank you for coming up with the "fix".  Before I found your fix, I was getting the run around from Ford denying there was a problem even though I have brought my car into a Ford dealership and according to their diagnostics everything was according to spec.  When Ford finally realized and offered their solution, they should have provided it at no cost. 

[FFH2010DF]

2010 FFH owner.  67,245 miles.  I have had this thread bookmarked for over two years, had the ODB in the garage, and due to being partially lazy and mostly busy, didn't get around to applying this fix until yesterday.  Worked like a charm.

 

I have been experiencing the low EVM usage since 2019 or 2020 - start date data is murky - plus other issues that were either partially related to this or ancillary.  I have been averaging 28.4 mpg during this period and never breaking 30 mpg even during favorable weather, as I live in a cold region, thus limiting efficiency of HEV.  The lack of power off the start (roundabouts and stop signs) is what made me most concerned about the issue, but with the pandemic, car usage was very low so the project got back-burnered. 

 

I was re-reading the TSB that Ford put out in April 24, 2020 (20-2142) and I noticed that the technicians were advised to also modify the PCM module - in addition to the BECM.  So, I reread this entire thread, and allen84 raised the same question/point after the official TSB was released, but there was never an answer/response.  So, to be thorough and complete, and before I move on from this project, marking it solved, I have a question for the forum:

 

Do anyone know what additional steps the Ford technicians performed on the PCM module?

 

Thank you.

 

 

Edited June 16, 2022 by FFH2010DF

[Mr.Nobody]

I've been experiencing mpg drop for a couple of years, never would've thought about the battery control.  I actually changed spark plugs two days ago because of this.  Found the TSB info over reddit and google lead me back to the forum.  Bought it used back in 2016 with 85k miles, was able to get 42mpg in the first couple of years, but now, only hovering around 30-31mpg currently at 112k miles.

 

A few questions:

1. Now with the official TSB out, would dealer do this "upgrade" for free or at charge? I do need to take the car in for the airbag recall, so if free, I'd let them do it.

2. Does a bluetooth OBDII reader device work with Forscan software too, especially the writing part? I have this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NLQAHS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

3. OP says reset back to year 1, my only question is if that would change the battery control too aggressively?  Not sure the exact control algorithm, esp the difference between yr 1 to say yr 5 though, but I'd think for a new battery, the charging/maintenance control could be vastly different.

4. A related issue is, do you guys feel the throttle body replacement would be a relevant maintenance work even though I have not experienced any "wrench" problem.  Actually the 1st owner did experienced it and ford dealer took care of it (not sure if throttle body got swapped out then).

 

Thanks a lot.

 

Edit:

Edited June 21, 2022 by Mr.Nobody

[FFH2010DF]

Dear Mr. Somebody,

 

My dealer wouldn't do it for free with the airbag recall.   They were going to charge $150 to do what I did for one Forscan license ($12) and an USB connected OBD tool ($29).  Since I have many uses for both of these things, very well worth it from my perspective.  

 

I don't think a bluetooth USB device, such as BlueDriver, would work, because Forscan has to be able to communicate with the intermediary (OBD device), and I don't know if this is possible.  It is a good question.  I have a blue tooth device which is tied to my cell, which I use for certain diags.  So having both isn't a waste of money for me.

 

I don't think the year choice really affects battery usage.  This is just an arbitrary timer as far as I can tell, so the further you push it back, the more time before you have to do it again.

 

The throttle body work may or may not be necessary.  The surge and the slow from zero starts is definitely tied to the hamstringing of the battery via this problem.  But, the time to review the throttle body is around five minutes.  Cleaning it without chopping off your fingers is another ten.

 

If I were you, I would solve one problem at a time (the battery hamstringing), then move onto the next.

 

Oh, I just too changed out my plugs, because I wanted to.  Turns out I will soon need to change the head gaskets, as there was a small amount of oil pooling in cylinders 2 and 3.  Ah, cars.

[Mr.Nobody]

9 hours ago, FFH2010DF said:

Dear Mr. Somebody,

 

My dealer wouldn't do it for free with the airbag recall.   They were going to charge $150 to do what I did for one Forscan license ($12) and an USB connected OBD tool ($29).  Since I have many uses for both of these things, very well worth it from my perspective.  

 

I don't think a bluetooth USB device, such as BlueDriver, would work, because Forscan has to be able to communicate with the intermediary (OBD device), and I don't know if this is possible.  It is a good question.  I have a blue tooth device which is tied to my cell, which I use for certain diags.  So having both isn't a waste of money for me.

 

I don't think the year choice really affects battery usage.  This is just an arbitrary timer as far as I can tell, so the further you push it back, the more time before you have to do it again.

 

The throttle body work may or may not be necessary.  The surge and the slow from zero starts is definitely tied to the hamstringing of the battery via this problem.  But, the time to review the throttle body is around five minutes.  Cleaning it without chopping off your fingers is another ten.

 

If I were you, I would solve one problem at a time (the battery hamstringing), then move onto the next.

 

Oh, I just too changed out my plugs, because I wanted to.  Turns out I will soon need to change the head gaskets, as there was a small amount of oil pooling in cylinders 2 and 3.  Ah, cars.

The perfectionist side of me is also curious what's in the TSB fix, as it contains more than the battery control reprogram, although the practical side is saying don't be paranoid for this 12 yr old car.  Would be nice, if someone who got the TSB fix would be able to share (maybe with the scan) what else (i.e. PCM program) is done.

 

$12 is for one year of forscan license right, not lifetime? Also, i noticed some minor oil leaking from bottom a day after the spark plug change, not sure what exactly caused it.  How did you find out cylinder 2 and 3 is leaking oil? Some oil on the spark plugs?

Edited June 22, 2022 by Mr.Nobody

[FFH2010DF]

The $12 is an annual license fee, which for the advanced features such as reprogramming, would be required to fully utilize the Forscan.  Since I own three Fords and a Mazda of various vintages, I'm guessing that I will just renew the license every year or as needed, if expired.

 

Reading over the other TSB fix involving the PCM, I'm thinking it may be just an updating of calibration, but it would be great to know exactly what this step involves.  Just for academic reasons.

 

One can determine there is a failing valve seal gasket (I mistyped when I said head gasket) by looking down into the spark plug wells after lifting the Coil on Plug boots.  If there is oil pooling in some quantity, then the underlying gasket is starting to fail.  The gasket is actually four separate gaskets... one big one that surrounds the perimeter of the valve cover, then three smaller gaskets - one that surrounds cylinder 1 spark, one that surrounds cylinder 4 plug, and then one that surrounds cylinders 2 and 3 plugs.  The gaskets can fail in more places than the spark plug wells, so if you see oil spray patterns somewhere around the perimeter of the valve cover, it could be coming from the area of a failing perimeter gasket.  

 

As for the quantity of oil, since the failure is a progression, one will probably notice increasing amounts of oil pooling in the spark plug wells.  For me, 1 and 4 were clean, which means those gaskets are still good.  Wells 2 and 3 had around 5 mLs of oil in each.  I'm guessing that the next time I look in several thousand miles, there will be more.  I also noticed that the threads of plugs 2 and 3 appeared to be oily, whereas 1 and 4 were drier / clean.  That would make sense as oil will seep down around the threads, as the Coil on Plug gaskets aren't that tight, meant mostly to keep out foreign matter from falling into the wells, but not acting as a liquid seal.  

 

I have seen some videos where the entire exposed plug stem is submerged in oil, which would indicate a really bad gasket failure and resulting leak.  I'm also guessing that person would have to regularly top up the oil, as it must be getting burnt up and fouling the plugs one drop at a time.

 

I'm not going to let it get that bad, so I ordered up the gasket set and will revisit this task in several months.

 

I'm not sure if linking to Youtube vidoes is allowed in this forum, but one can find an excellent how-to by Makuloco - search for this title: Ford Escape & Fusion 2.3L 2.5L DOHC Engines: Valve Cover Gasket Replacement

Edited June 22, 2022 by FFH2010DF

[FFH2010DF]

Well, I just did the date setback of the battery, then took a 300 mile trip with speeds going from 20 to 85+ mph.  My average was 36.6 mpg.  My old average would have been 26 at max.  80% of the trip was at highway speeds, so the battery was doing its job as expected, and the ICE was coordinating with it perfectly.  In the past, I could feel the sluggishness or intermediate sluggishness at high speeds, as if the engine was stuttering for brief segments.  My guess is that the ICE was expecting the battery to be assisting and it wasn't.  The worst part was the slow to no thrust from dead stops, such as entering a round-a-bout or from a stop sign .. that was scary and dangerous, wondering if the engine wouldn't kick in fast enough.  I stopped letting the rest of the family drive the Fusion, due to this safety problem.  That is now gone.

 

 

Edited June 22, 2022 by FFH2010DF

[drolds1]

On 6/21/2022 at 11:07 AM, Mr.Nobody said:

I've been experiencing mpg drop for a couple of years, never would've thought about the battery control.  I actually changed spark plugs two days ago because of this.  Found the TSB info over reddit and google lead me back to the forum.  Bought it used back in 2016 with 85k miles, was able to get 42mpg in the first couple of years, but now, only hovering around 30-31mpg currently at 112k miles.

 

A few questions:

1. Now with the official TSB out, would dealer do this "upgrade" for free or at charge? I do need to take the car in for the airbag recall, so if free, I'd let them do it.

2. Does a bluetooth OBDII reader device work with Forscan software too, especially the writing part? I have this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NLQAHS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

3. OP says reset back to year 1, my only question is if that would change the battery control too aggressively?  Not sure the exact control algorithm, esp the difference between yr 1 to say yr 5 though, but I'd think for a new battery, the charging/maintenance control could be vastly different.

4. A related issue is, do you guys feel the throttle body replacement would be a relevant maintenance work even though I have not experienced any "wrench" problem.  Actually the 1st owner did experienced it and ford dealer took care of it (not sure if throttle body got swapped out then).

 

Thanks a lot.

 

Edit:

TSBs are only performed free of charge if the  car is still covered under warranty.  Every TSB has this disclaimer printed on the first page.

 

Throttle bodies are not a maintenance item.  They're only replaced if they fail.  At your mileage, it could probably benefit from a cleaning, however.

 

 

[allen84]

20 hours ago, Mr.Nobody said:

The perfectionist side of me is also curious what's in the TSB fix, as it contains more than the battery control reprogram, although the practical side is saying don't be paranoid for this 12 yr old car.  Would be nice, if someone who got the TSB fix would be able to share (maybe with the scan) what else (i.e. PCM program) is done.

 

$12 is for one year of forscan license right, not lifetime? Also, i noticed some minor oil leaking from bottom a day after the spark plug change, not sure what exactly caused it.  How did you find out cylinder 2 and 3 is leaking oil? Some oil on the spark plugs?

 

16 hours ago, FFH2010DF said:

The $12 is an annual license fee, which for the advanced features such as reprogramming, would be required to fully utilize the Forscan.  Since I own three Fords and a Mazda of various vintages, I'm guessing that I will just renew the license every year or as needed, if expired.

 

Reading over the other TSB fix involving the PCM, I'm thinking it may be just an updating of calibration, but it would be great to know exactly what this step involves.  Just for academic reasons.

 

One can determine there is a failing valve seal gasket (I mistyped when I said head gasket) by looking down into the spark plug wells after lifting the Coil on Plug boots.  If there is oil pooling in some quantity, then the underlying gasket is starting to fail.  The gasket is actually four separate gaskets... one big one that surrounds the perimeter of the valve cover, then three smaller gaskets - one that surrounds cylinder 1 spark, one that surrounds cylinder 4 plug, and then one that surrounds cylinders 2 and 3 plugs.  The gaskets can fail in more places than the spark plug wells, so if you see oil spray patterns somewhere around the perimeter of the valve cover, it could be coming from the area of a failing perimeter gasket.  

 

As for the quantity of oil, since the failure is a progression, one will probably notice increasing amounts of oil pooling in the spark plug wells.  For me, 1 and 4 were clean, which means those gaskets are still good.  Wells 2 and 3 had around 5 mLs of oil in each.  I'm guessing that the next time I look in several thousand miles, there will be more.  I also noticed that the threads of plugs 2 and 3 appeared to be oily, whereas 1 and 4 were drier / clean.  That would make sense as oil will seep down around the threads, as the Coil on Plug gaskets aren't that tight, meant mostly to keep out foreign matter from falling into the wells, but not acting as a liquid seal.  

 

I have seen some videos where the entire exposed plug stem is submerged in oil, which would indicate a really bad gasket failure and resulting leak.  I'm also guessing that person would have to regularly top up the oil, as it must be getting burnt up and fouling the plugs one drop at a time.

 

I'm not going to let it get that bad, so I ordered up the gasket set and will revisit this task in several months.

 

I'm not sure if linking to Youtube vidoes is allowed in this forum, but one can find an excellent how-to by Makuloco - search for this title: Ford Escape & Fusion 2.3L 2.5L DOHC Engines: Valve Cover Gasket Replacement

 

 

Buying a licence is a choice, to support the creator of the program.  In a way it is good if you constantly are using the program.     But, you really don't have to buy it, if for most people this is a one and done thing, and not having to use it anymore.   You can generate a free 2 month license, over and over again everytime 2 months is up, or whenever you need to use it again.

I asked that question a while back about the TSB details and what exactly are parameters of the fix.   Unless you get a Ford tech that will spill the beans on the steps of how they fix it, no one will ever know.  Or if you know a friend or family member or someone close that works at the Ford dealer, to see if they can ask the service dept and ask questions on how that TSB is done.  But that might be against thier policies of disclosing company data.  I don't know.

Also realize this is Ford or any other car, or any name brand manufacturer of anything that will have any of our best interest at hand.  Planned obsolescence is a thing thats been happening right under our noses whether we like it or not.  They may have designed the fix to gradually make the car become more of a problem in the long run.  Like you know, subtly make you think to stop driving your car in the next few years and time to get a new car.  Who knows what else they could have modified? They could have made it better or worse than just the battery age reset.   The choice is given to you.  Take the car to the dealer to have the TSB done, or perform this reset on your own at your own risk.   

This brings up the Apple Iphone 6 battery and phone slow down software fiasco that they did which I was a victim of (From that point on, I never bought another Apple phone again after that)  https://www.theguardian.com/technology/2022/jun/16/claim-for-750m-against-apple-launched-alleging-battery-throttling