2016 Fusion False Warning Lights

[dtcollins23]

I have a 2016 Fusion with eco boost. The other day i was letting the car run while I was in the house. I came outside pulled off and the car shut down telling me the "Engine coolant temp overheated, low oil pressure, service trac system, service rear parking aid system,, and also low tire pressure". i was told to change out the engine coolant temp sensor which I did. Now the car still wont start, it doesnt even turn over. Also i bought 2 different code readers from walmart and neither will connect with the car. Anyone else experienced anything like this? Any info would help as Ford is booked weeks out. 

Thanks

 

[eGuru]

If you are still on the original battery, you need to replace it as it is more than 3 years old and that sadly is about as long as they last.

Let us know if you are still experiencing issues after the replacement.

IDK why anyone would suggest replacing a coolant temp sensor for a no start issue.

[bbf2530]

1 hour ago, dtcollins23 said:

I have a 2016 Fusion with eco boost. The other day i was letting the car run while I was in the house. I came outside pulled off and the car shut down telling me the "Engine coolant temp overheated, low oil pressure, service trac system, service rear parking aid system,, and also low tire pressure". i was told to change out the engine coolant temp sensor which I did. Now the car still wont start, it doesnt even turn over. Also i bought 2 different code readers from walmart and neither will connect with the car. Anyone else experienced anything like this? Any info would help as Ford is booked weeks out. 

Thanks

 

 

Hi dtcollins. Internet diagnosis is iffy at best. This could be something as simple as a failed battery. Have you tried jump starting the car? If not, I would try that first.  If it starts, your battery is probably dead. And when the battery goes, all sorts of electrical and electronic warnings can be set off.

 

Is your car still within the 3 year/36,000 mile Bumper to Bumper or 5 year/60,000 mile Powertrain Warranty? If it is not the battery, and you are within the warranty periods, call Ford Roadside assistance and have the car towed to your Dealership. If it is the battery and you are within the 3 year 36,000 mile Bumper to Bumper Warranty, have them replace the battery.

 

Keep us updated and good luck.

[dtcollins23]

Thanks for the info. I was receiving a Service Battery Charging System warning a few days before. I was just stunned by the fact that theres no cranking or anything. I did try to use my sisters 07 Chevy Colbolt but being that car is so small and everything is manually operated, I have had issues trying to jump cars in the past with it. I'm going to try a bigger vehicle later on. I was also thinking of taking the battery to Auto Zone and just having them fully charge and test it.

The coolant temp they suggested because it was throwing the false over heat code 

 

Also the reason for coming here is because I have found alot of other helpful info from people and like I said the Ford dealers in my area are booked out weeks. 

[akirby]

Don't mess with the battery - just change it.   Once they go bad they're bad.  You might get an extra couple of months.

Edited June 19, 2019 by akirby

[bbf2530]

10 hours ago, dtcollins23 said:

Thanks for the info. I was receiving a Service Battery Charging System warning a few days before. I was just stunned by the fact that theres no cranking or anything. I did try to use my sisters 07 Chevy Colbolt but being that car is so small and everything is manually operated, I have had issues trying to jump cars in the past with it. I'm going to try a bigger vehicle later on. I was also thinking of taking the battery to Auto Zone and just having them fully charge and test it.

The coolant temp they suggested because it was throwing the false over heat code 

 

Also the reason for coming here is because I have found alot of other helpful info from people and like I said the Ford dealers in my area are booked out weeks. 

 

Hi dtcollins.  The no crank situation is what leads me to believe it may be as simple as a battery issue. That and the light show on your dashboard.

 

Also, I don't think anyone is questioning why you came here for information. Going to the Dealership while still under warranty is something some of us will always suggest, since many people seem to forget about it, especially for simple issues such as a battery.

 

Let us know how you make out and good luck.

[dtcollins23]

So last night I took the battery to Autozone when they tested the battery it was completely dead. They charged it for me and said it was at 13v and it was a good battery. I put in it the car and still no crank. All the lights etc are still lit. I'm just surprised that its not linking with the scanner and I'm getting no crank at all. The Fords around me which there are few are way behind but its almost been a week without a car. 

[eGuru]

What is the security
LED doing when you try to start your Fusion?

Does it stop flashing in the run position?

[dtcollins23]

I didnt pay attention to that and the car is at home. What am I looking for?

[dtcollins23]

1 hour ago, eGuru said:

What is the security
LED doing when you try to start your Fusion?

Does it stop flashing in the run position?

 

[dtcollins23]

Ok so I didn’t see a security symbol on my dashboard. I tried the other key and got nothing different. Checked fuses they looked good. Can’t change relays. Also the battery is dead again which it has been less than 24 hours since the charging and the car has not been running. 

[bbf2530]

1 hour ago, dtcollins23 said:

Ok so I didn’t see a security symbol on my dashboard. I tried the other key and got nothing different. Checked fuses they looked good. Can’t change relays. Also the battery is dead again which it has been less than 24 hours since the charging and the car has not been running. 

 

Hi dtcollins. AutoZone probably did not properly load test your battery, which will give a false reading, and it is dead.

 

Did you try to properly jump start your car from another vehicle or a booster, to see if it will start, as suggested? Again, try that first.  If it starts, it is the battery.

 

Or do what you will probably ultimately need to do anyway and replace your battery, since a failing battery is usually the cause of these types of issues.  If your car is still within the 3 year/36,000 mile Bumper to Bumper Warranty, call Ford Roadside Assistance and have them come out. They should preoperative test the battery. If it is dead, you can have them tow the car to your Ford Dealer and have them replace the battery under warranty. If your car is physically there at the Dealership with a dead battery, they will take care of it. In some cases, Ford Roadside Assistance may replace the battery right at your home.  If you call the Service Department, they will give you an appointment in two weeks, as you have found out.

 

Let us know how you make out and good luck.

Edited June 20, 2019 by bbf2530

[dtcollins23]

No action when trying to use a jumper pack. Guess the shop is the next option. I'm not getting anywhere. 

[bangster]

So the current battery charges up to 13v and maintains that charge and is still over 12v when it won't start? It sounds like a bad battery, I recently replaced a 2 year old replacement battery in my 2015. It would only maintain around 11.7 volts.

 

As far as all that other stuff like security, that is to see if it can't see the key, which would cause a no start condition. I don't think there is a dedicated "Security" warning light on the dash or anyplace else on your car, only indication of a security issue would be a message in the message center.

[bbf2530]

51 minutes ago, dtcollins23 said:

No action when trying to use a jumper pack. Guess the shop is the next option. I'm not getting anywhere. 

 

Hi dtcollins.  Not sure if you ever mentioned whether your car is still within the 3 year/36,000 Bumper to Bumper, 5 year/60,000 mile Powertrain, or an ESP warranty?

My advice would be to call Ford Roadside Assistance and have them come out.  If they can not get your car started, have it towed to your Ford Dealership.  They will work on it sooner if it is towed there than if you call for an appointment.

 

Keep us updated and good luck.

[dtcollins23]

2 hours ago, bangster said:

So the current battery charges up to 13v and maintains that charge and is still over 12v when it won't start? It sounds like a bad battery, I recently replaced a 2 year old replacement battery in my 2015. It would only maintain around 11.7 volts.

 

As far as all that other stuff like security, that is to see if it can't see the key, which would cause a no start condition. I don't think there is a dedicated "Security" warning light on the dash or anyplace else on your car, only indication of a security issue would be a message in the message center.

The battery was charged to 13v and as I stated the next day it was completely dead. I did put the battery in the car but I never got to start it. I'm going to try just a new battery and see if that works. Or do you suggest trying to jump it with a car first?

[Frustrated fusion]

Hi,  dont know if you still have this problem, but I had the same exact one.  After thousands of dollars and missed diagnosis after missed diagnosis, I noticed one day when I touched the fuse box the lights came on and then I knew it was a short.  Check the thick wire that hooks to the outside of the fuse box and see if it had a bad connection.  Had fuse box replaced for $1000 and didnt even need it.  Kinda aggravating that they replaced the box and didnt clean the terminal where it connected.  I'll try to leave a pic if i can figure out how.  Really hope this helps you and many more who have a car note for a car you cant drive.you should be able to see how dirty the contacts were and where it melted and almost caused a fire.