Multiple warnings after 3 weeks of non-use. What now?

[Harlan Pepper]

My 2015 Fusion Energi Titanium had been sitting unused in our garage for a little over 3 weeks. My son took it out for its first drive in awhile to go see a friend (about 4 miles away).  Car starts and drives without issue.  A few hours later it starts and displays the following errors (as seen here:  https://photos.app.goo.gl/jFtYPtJRxwC23BHB8?

• Steering Assist Fault — Service Required
• Hill Start Assist Not Available
• Service AdvanceTrac
• Pre-Collision Assist Not Available

 

I know that methods for clearing codes has been discussed for these errors are easy enough to find online. 

I successfully disconnected the battery cables which removed the codes and was able to drive the car normally.  

 

I took the car to the local Ford dealership this morning and described situation.  Since 4 errors appeared, service rep thought first place to start is battery.  Test showed that battery was good, but that a recharge was recommended.  Perhaps the battery was recharging during the 3 mile drive to the dealership and that is why it showed as "Good".  This raises battery questions for me:

• Since the car had been sitting for 3 weeks, isn’t it more likely that the battery-causing-modules-to-create-errors scenario would have occurred when the car was started the first time (when my son left the house) as opposed to the second time it was started (4 hours later) when he was trying to come home?
• If the battery is the issue (even though it passed test?), isn’t it more likely that it would fail to start the car altogether?  I assume this b/c it seems logical that turning on the engine/hybrid motor takes more power than powering the modules.

 

So, now my question is “What do I do now?”  My wife and teenage son frequently drive this car.  I don’t want them to be in a scenario where the power steering goes out in traffic.  I assume that if there is a power steering issue it will throw the error again.  Can a problem with one module cause errors to display on 3 others?  

 

Dealer service said that only suggestion at this point is to do an overnight “drain test” to see if battery is losing power.  My friend offered to do (what I assume is the same kind of test) a test for parasitic loss this weekend.  

 

Any help is appreciated.  Thanks in advance.

[AMYRIVERS]

I HAVE A 2010 FORD FUSION SEL. I HAVE HAD IT FOR THREE MONTHS. BOUGHT AS IS FROM A DEALERSHIP. THEN LAST WEEK  THE CAR ACTED LIKE IT DID NOT WANT TO GO AND RIGHT TIRE JUST SPIN. I CUT OFF THEN CUT BACK ON THEN IT WENT. SOON AS IT TOOK OFF THEN BOOM "ADVANCETRAC SERVICE POWER STEERING NOW." I HAD THE WHOLE POWER STEERING REPLACED.  A LOT OF MONEY. NEXT DAY I GET IN AND DEJAVU ALL OVER AGAIN. I HAVE NO IDEA WHAT IT IS. PLEASE HELP!! IT CANNOT BE MY POWER STEERING, I HAD IT REPLACED YESTERDAY!

 

Hi Amy. Welcome to the Ford Fusion Forum. Just a couple of suggestions: First, please do not hijack other members threads with your own questions.  Start your own new thread, so the original poster can receive his/her own help...and you can receive help tailored to your issues. Also, it is easier to read if you do not type in all CAPS (and does not look like you are shouting).

 

I will leave this here for a day or two to give you a chance to read and start your own thread, before I remove this post.

 

Good luck.

Edited July 12, 2019 by bbf2530

[bbf2530]

15 hours ago, Harlan Pepper said:

My 2015 Fusion Energi Titanium had been sitting unused in our garage for a little over 3 weeks. My son took it out for its first drive in awhile to go see a friend (about 4 miles away).  Car starts and drives without issue.  A few hours later it starts and displays the following errors (as seen here:  https://photos.app.goo.gl/jFtYPtJRxwC23BHB8?

• Steering Assist Fault — Service Required
• Hill Start Assist Not Available
• Service AdvanceTrac
• Pre-Collision Assist Not Available

 

I know that methods for clearing codes has been discussed for these errors are easy enough to find online. 

I successfully disconnected the battery cables which removed the codes and was able to drive the car normally.  

 

I took the car to the local Ford dealership this morning and described situation.  Since 4 errors appeared, service rep thought first place to start is battery.  Test showed that battery was good, but that a recharge was recommended.  Perhaps the battery was recharging during the 3 mile drive to the dealership and that is why it showed as "Good".  This raises battery questions for me:

• Since the car had been sitting for 3 weeks, isn’t it more likely that the battery-causing-modules-to-create-errors scenario would have occurred when the car was started the first time (when my son left the house) as opposed to the second time it was started (4 hours later) when he was trying to come home?
• If the battery is the issue (even though it passed test?), isn’t it more likely that it would fail to start the car altogether?  I assume this b/c it seems logical that turning on the engine/hybrid motor takes more power than powering the modules.

 

So, now my question is “What do I do now?”  My wife and teenage son frequently drive this car.  I don’t want them to be in a scenario where the power steering goes out in traffic.  I assume that if there is a power steering issue it will throw the error again.  Can a problem with one module cause errors to display on 3 others?  

 

Dealer service said that only suggestion at this point is to do an overnight “drain test” to see if battery is losing power.  My friend offered to do (what I assume is the same kind of test) a test for parasitic loss this weekend.  

 

Any help is appreciated.  Thanks in advance.

 

Hi Harlan. Did you purchase the car new?  Is it the original factory battery? If it is, it is past due for replacement. I assume from your post that the battery was not replaced after it tested "Good"? If that is the case, I would still recommend beginning with the battery (whatever the results of your friends "drain test").

 

As far as your questions: While your logic is sound, the answer to both questions is...Yes, it is more likely, but that does not exclude/eliminate it happening exactly as it did in your situation. Modern cars are so electronically/computer/electrically intensive, that a healthy battery is critical. Possibly even more so in an Energi or Hybrid.  So before spending money on other more expensive fixes, start with the one which is overdue anyway.

 

Let us know how you make out and good luck.

Edited July 12, 2019 by bbf2530

[Harlan Pepper]

bbf2530, 

Thank you for the quick and clear reply.  The car was purchased as a CPO in August 2018.  I assume it was a lease return.  You are correct:  I did not replace the current battery: a Motorcraft Toughmax, so I would assume that that is the OEM.  Current mileage is ~43K.  My dealer quoted me $210 for a new battery installed.  

 

Is Motorcraft only sold via Ford service shops?

Should I pursue a compatible non-Motorcraft replacement on my own or through a cheaper mechanic?  

Any recommended brands/models?

Thanks again.

 

 

[bangster]

You can get Motorcraft batteries at auto parts stores as well, not just from the dealer. The aftermarket Motorcraft battery is not exactly like the one put in at the factory in most cases (same as oil filters and lots of other things).

 

I think it comes with an AGM battery and those should last much longer than a regular lead/acid battery. $210 for an AGM battery isn't out of line, I bought the same battery for my daughters 2015 Fusion, it was $150 bucks (top of the line lead acid was $125, so $25 more for a much better battery with a 5 year replacement versus 3 year for lead acid one). I think with the battery being in the trunk (right?) it needs to be AGM, lead acid isn't even an option. I got it at Walmart, the Everstart Platinum, it was an upgrade in size, CCA, reserve power...for hers but yours should have the H6/Group 48 already.

 

That cluster of errors are common, you almost always see them together (can find many instances of the top 3 in other posts here and google searches, last one not all have the pre collision warning system (not sure what it is part of).

 

 

Edited July 12, 2019 by bangster

[bangster]

I also don't think the 12v battery in an Energi is used for much, and when under way the HVB is used.

[bbf2530]

2 hours ago, Harlan Pepper said:

bbf2530, 

Thank you for the quick and clear reply.  The car was purchased as a CPO in August 2018.  I assume it was a lease return.  You are correct:  I did not replace the current battery: a Motorcraft Toughmax, so I would assume that that is the OEM.  Current mileage is ~43K.  My dealer quoted me $210 for a new battery installed.  

 

Is Motorcraft only sold via Ford service shops?

Should I pursue a compatible non-Motorcraft replacement on my own or through a cheaper mechanic?  

Any recommended brands/models?

Thanks again.

 

 

 

Hi Harlan. You are very welcome. ?

 

You've owned your Fusion Energi just under a year, is it still covered under the CPO Warranty? If yes, check your contract and inquire as to whether the battery is covered. If yes, have them change it.  If not: My recommendation would be to stick with the correct Motorcraft replacement.

 

If you are handy and can change your own battery, call several of your local Ford and Lincoln Dealership Parts Departments to get competing price quotes. You can also call any local retailer that sells Motorcraft batteries. Let them know the best price you have. Use  the battery part number off the top of your current battery for quotes.

 

If you do not feel comfortable changing your own battery, then call your local Ford and Lincoln Dealership Service Departments for competing price quotes to install a new battery. Ask if they can give you a lower price than the one you already have.

 

Let us know how you make out and good luck.

Edited July 12, 2019 by bbf2530

[Harlan Pepper]

Thanks to both of you for the replies.  Very very helpful.  I will ask service adviser if battery is covered under CPO.  I see that Motorcraft offers 3 year replacement and 100 month pro-rated, so maybe I can get some money off.  But, then again, I bet they won't reduce price since they tested the current battery and it was "good."  

 

If I do go ahead with the replacement, do you think it still makes sense to have my friend do a parasitic test?  No harm, I guess.  And if there was some drain, that should be addressed independent of an older battery anyways, yes?

[bbf2530]

18 hours ago, Harlan Pepper said:

Thanks to both of you for the replies.  Very very helpful.  I will ask service adviser if battery is covered under CPO.  I see that Motorcraft offers 3 year replacement and 100 month pro-rated, so maybe I can get some money off.  But, then again, I bet they won't reduce price since they tested the current battery and it was "good."  

 

If I do go ahead with the replacement, do you think it still makes sense to have my friend do a parasitic test?  No harm, I guess.  And if there was some drain, that should be addressed independent of an older battery anyways, yes?

 

Hi Harlan.  If your car is still within the CPO mileage/time limits, I would think the battery should be covered. However, it all depends on your CPO warranty contract.

 

Concerning the current battery in your car: The Motorcraft battery Warranty you are referring to only applies to retail purchased batteries, not original factory/OEM batteries. So if the battery in your car is the original factory battery, it was covered under the New Car Bumper to Bumper Warranty (3 years/36,000 miles), which in your case, has expired. Perhaps the Dealer will offer a new battery as a good faith gesture, but they do not need to according to warranty stipulations. Unless it is covered by the CPO warranty, as stated above.

 

Concerning your friend doing a parasitic test: Yes, have your car tested by your friend. In fact, I would definitely ask him to do it, since he offered (assuming he knows what he is doing?). And yes, if he finds a parasitic loss, it should definitely be addressed as soon as possible, especially if your CPO warranty is close to expiring.

 

Keep us updated and good luck.

[Harlan Pepper]

The parasitic test shows no drain issues.  So I'm going to go with the theory that the long-parked battery was a little weak in powering the modules or that it was a glitch of some sort that I don't understand.  Hope that's not an irresponsible/unsafe attitude to take.  

 

I will get a new battery next week due to its 3+ year age (even though dealer and friend tested it as good).

 

Does this sound like a reasonable plan?  Nothing further to do at this time?  If the errors occur again, I will get a tow to the dealer so that they can pull the codes.

[bbf2530]

19 hours ago, Harlan Pepper said:

The parasitic test shows no drain issues.  So I'm going to go with the theory that the long-parked battery was a little weak in powering the modules or that it was a glitch of some sort that I don't understand.  Hope that's not an irresponsible/unsafe attitude to take.  

 

I will get a new battery next week due to its 3+ year age (even though dealer and friend tested it as good).

 

Does this sound like a reasonable plan?  Nothing further to do at this time?  If the errors occur again, I will get a tow to the dealer so that they can pull the codes.

 

Hi Harlan.  Yes, that sounds like a reasonable plan. Hopefully, the new battery should take care of the problem.

 

Keep us updated and good luck.

Edited July 14, 2019 by bbf2530