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2009 Fusion SEL AWD Remote Starter Issue


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Hi Guys,

 

     Recently picked up a '09 SEL and have sorted all the major stuff with it.  Last thing is the remote start.  Once the start is initiated, the doors will lock, horn will honk and all the lights on the IP will light and the anti theft light will flash.  That's all that happens--no start.  I am wondering if it is a programming issue with the key fob.  I only have one set of keys for this car.  Thoughts??

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18 minutes ago, eGuru said:

The problem isn't related to the keyfob but possibly the Securilock module is not being recognized as valid. 

Try to remote start with the head of your key held against the ignition switch - don't insert the key.

     Just tried that ....no different.

18 minutes ago, eGuru said:

 

 

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One set of keys means you only have a single key? You would need 2 to try to reprogram in the module for the remote start.

 

Do you have a way to look at OBD failure codes? This is the code I got set when I wrapped my key in foil to simulate just what you are reporting:

30008898598_37ce60b002_c.jpg

 

This is what the dash looks like (what you report) when it cannot see the PATS chip and attempting to start:

 

Edited by bangster
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Correct, I only have 1 single key.  Although you have a newer car than I do, the result is similar.  The theft light flashes rapidly when it should be starting.  I can see what my code reader comes up with.

Edited by Rebel Racing
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15 hours ago, Rebel Racing said:

Just tried that ....no difference.

Possibly the Securilock module is not plugged in properly to the main RS control module or the sensing coil (around the ignition switch) that is driven by the Securilock is not being activated.

At this point, we can't assume that the Securilock is needing to be reprogrammed to be recognized as a valid key. 

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2 minutes ago, eGuru said:

Possibly the Securilock module is not plugged in properly to the main RS control module or the sensing coil (around the ignition switch) that is driven by the Securilock is not being activated.

At this point, we can't assume that the Securilock is needing to be reprogrammed to be recognized as a valid key. 

O.K. perhaps I should pull the trim pieces off the steering column and make sure that everything is plugged in properly.

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2 minutes ago, Rebel Racing said:

O.K. perhaps I should pull the trim pieces off the steering column and make sure that everything is plugged in properly.

Try disconnecting the Securilock module or its sensing coil and try again to remote start with your key pressed against the ignition switch. If it starts, it is a Securilock  validity issue.

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On 10/5/2019 at 11:01 AM, Rebel Racing said:

O.K. perhaps I should pull the trim pieces off the steering column and make sure that everything is plugged in properly.

Well...........a bit of an update.  Everything seems to be plugged in fine.  My cheap code reader shows nothing.  After a few more tries, I cannot hear the fuel pump coming on.  Looking under the column, I see the module that is labeled "Remote Start System".  There are 2 larger plugs going into ti and 1 small 2 wire plug to it.  First thought is to go to the wreckers and get another box but would it be compatible and not knowing that, if it does not help did I really isolate the problem.  Not sure which way to go at this point.

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The small plug (should be 4 pins) connects to a small module which connects to a coil around the ignition switch. This Securilok module (typically 8L3Z-19G365-BA) acts like a coded key. If it is not working or has not been learned as a valid key, the PATs LED will continue to flash and the car won't start. So if you disconnect that 4-pin plug, there won't be any interference from the Securilock module. Just press the head of your regular key tightly against the ignition switch and try to remote start. Do not insert the key in the lock as the remote start is disabled when a key is sensed as inserted. 

A successful start means an issue with the Securilok key module itself or the wiring connected it to the main RS module or to the ignition switch sensing coil.

If it doesn't start, it is probably the main remote start module causing the issue. You can pick up another similar box at the wrecker - if you are lucky you can use your existing Securilok module with the new box and avoid having to do any programming.

You could program the replacement RS yourself if you have 2 keys - so best bet would be to get a second key programmed - even better would be to get a third key that you can program yourself - then even if you lose one key, you will still have 2 to work with.

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No real solution yet but I did start to wonder if the hood switch could be faulty.  I opened the hood and tried the start but the alarm goes off so that tells me the switch is good.  I have read that a low battery (for the car) could cause a no start issue with the remote.  I doubted the battery until I left the deck lid open for an hour or so and the battery was dead.  Same thing happened with the doors open while I was cleaning.  It only took an hour or so to charge the battery enough to start it but the battery is in need of replacement.  Could this be my problem--sounds too simple though.

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12 minutes ago, Rebel Racing said:

No real solution yet but I did start to wonder if the hood switch could be faulty.  I opened the hood and tried the start but the alarm goes off so that tells me the switch is good.  I have read that a low battery (for the car) could cause a no start issue with the remote.  I doubted the battery until I left the deck lid open for an hour or so and the battery was dead.  Same thing happened with the doors open while I was cleaning.  It only took an hour or so to charge the battery enough to start it but the battery is in need of replacement.  Could this be my problem--sounds too simple though.

 

Hi Rebel. It is possible. Since it needs to be replaced, do it now before moving forward with any troubleshooting and see what happens.

 

Keep us updated and good luck.

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Yes, going to get a good battery for it this week--I've had batteries that are on the way out that won't hold a charge more than a few days but this one does but, open the doors or the trunk for more than an hour and it is flat.  With the cold weather coming, I need to have a good starting battery so this is a good first step. 

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Update.......  After reading online, I learned that it could be in a valet mode.  I found the manual and decided to see if it was in that mode--tried engaging the mode and no luck--it should of honked the horn 6 times to tell it was engaged.  Tried to take it out of that mode (if it was engaged) and no different.  Does that fact that it will not go into valet mode help track down the issue??

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Oops, I confused programming with selecting service/valet mode.

 

I am not sure what inability to put it into service mode might mean. This is were you put the car in On or Run, press and hold the brake pedal and press the Start button on the remote 3 times to toggle it, right?

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34 minutes ago, bangster said:

Could you get it into programming mode and get the 3 honks? I don't see a valet mode. I assume you have the PowerCode System 100 one way separate remote?

Yes, that is the remote I have.  I only have one key and remote.  I'll have to see how to get into the programming mode--I thin there should be a button below the steering column.  I thought it was only for the locks and alarm though--could be wrong though.

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5 minutes ago, bangster said:

Oops, I confused programming with selecting service/valet mode.

 

I am not sure what inability to put it into service mode might mean. This is were you put the car in On or Run, press and hold the brake pedal and press the Start button on the remote 3 times to toggle it, right?

Yes, that is correct--I was hopeful that was only the case but it is not.

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On 10/14/2019 at 8:23 PM, Rebel Racing said:

Just not the time today for further testing today but will this week.  Thanks!!

Hey Rebel,

Just to add to the conversation and to piggy back on what eGuru stated your issue is with the interrogation of the key code to start the vehicle. So either the PATS interface module is not programmed correctly or you need a new PATS interface module. As eGuru stated earlier, start by programming the second key and then once you have both keys programmed, programming the PATS is a breeze. As eGuru stated, disconnect the 4 pin connector to rule out any possibilities of interference and test again with the key next to the ignition without inserting it into the ignition.  Also, the remote start module has some fuses under a cover which, surprisingly, contains some software, I ran into an issue where this cover was not seated properly and got an unusual no start issue when remote starting. The cover has the fancy writing on it that says ford remote start which you've already seen. Don't remove the cover just yet, just push on it to make sure its seated properly. 


If you end up finding out it needs a new PATS interface module I got this one off of amazon and it worked great!

 

-Rich 

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On 10/10/2019 at 10:07 AM, eGuru said:

The small plug (should be 4 pins) connects to a small module which connects to a coil around the ignition switch. This Securilok module (typically 8L3Z-19G365-BA) acts like a coded key. If it is not working or has not been learned as a valid key, the PATs LED will continue to flash and the car won't start. So if you disconnect that 4-pin plug, there won't be any interference from the Securilock module. Just press the head of your regular key tightly against the ignition switch and try to remote start. Do not insert the key in the lock as the remote start is disabled when a key is sensed as inserted. 

A successful start means an issue with the Securilok key module itself or the wiring connected it to the main RS module or to the ignition switch sensing coil.

If it doesn't start, it is probably the main remote start module causing the issue. You can pick up another similar box at the wrecker - if you are lucky you can use your existing Securilok module with the new box and avoid having to do any programming.

You could program the replacement RS yourself if you have 2 keys - so best bet would be to get a second key programmed - even better would be to get a third key that you can program yourself - then even if you lose one key, you will still have 2 to work with.

O.K.  making progress...........I unplugged the 4 pin plug and put the key up to the ign. lock and I got a start.  So......where to now??  I really don't need a second key for day to day life since I will be selling the car in the spring.  Is there anything else to test before assuming it is the Securilock module itself?

 

Thanks!!

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