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2009 Fusion SEL AWD Remote Starter Issue


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It is a pretty universal add on, the only requirements are that the module is the same version of PATS/Securilock.

 

Just breaking down those 2 part numbers:

7L2Z-19G365-AA

7 - 2007

L2 - Explorer

Z - add on/aftermarket (not specific to a functional area like most)

 

the suffix of AA means a variety of things, sometimes it is a revision, sometimes it is a "side", sometimes it denotes different between base and premium.

 

8L3Z-19G365-BA

8 - 2008

L3 - F150

Z - add on/aftermarket (not specific to a functional area like most)

 

Is it worth the expense to replace the possibly defective Securilock module, get another key, get it programmed in by a dealer or locksmith (it cannot be a clone, which is often what a locksmith does), then program in the Securilock module? Some of it can be done by a tinkerer.

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14 minutes ago, bangster said:

It is a pretty universal add on, the only requirements are that the module is the same version of PATS/Securilock.

 

Just breaking down those 2 part numbers:

7L2Z-19G365-AA

7 - 2007

L2 - Explorer

Z - add on/aftermarket (not specific to a functional area like most)

 

the suffix of AA means a variety of things, sometimes it is a revision, sometimes it is a "side", sometimes it denotes different between base and premium.

 

8L3Z-19G365-BA

8 - 2008

L3 - F150

Z - add on/aftermarket (not specific to a functional area like most)

 

Is it worth the expense to replace the possibly defective Securilock module, get another key, get it programmed in by a dealer or locksmith (it cannot be a clone, which is often what a locksmith does), then program in the Securilock module? Some of it can be done by a tinkerer.

Well, I guess if I would need that second key to program a new Securilock then.maybe get the second key and try to program my current module--maybe get lucky.  Failing that, pull a module from the wreckers and then I program that one.  The budget is ~$100 so that might be right around that for both if needed.

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Hi Guys,

 

     Still trying to decide which way to go with this.  Not knowing the history of this car, all I know is that I bought it with one key and the PO did not have a second.  Is it more likely that the Securilock "lost" it's programming or did the module just go bad?  I'm thinking that the later is more likely.  Does anyone know for sure if a replacement Securilock module would need to be programmed or would it be a simple R&R.  I as that since my only option for another key is to go to the dealer--and I know that will not be cheap.  Thoughts?? 

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7 hours ago, Rebel Racing said:

Hi Guys,

 

     Still trying to decide which way to go with this.  Not knowing the history of this car, all I know is that I bought it with one key and the PO did not have a second.  Is it more likely that the Securilock "lost" it's programming or did the module just go bad?  I'm thinking that the later is more likely.  Does anyone know for sure if a replacement Securilock module would need to be programmed or would it be a simple R&R.  I as that since my only option for another key is to go to the dealer--and I know that will not be cheap.  Thoughts?? 

The Securilok is not programmed in the field - it comes "pre-programmed" with a unique ID. It is your vehicle that needs to be programmed to accept the Securilok ID as a valid key.

 

It is not likely that your Securilock is defective - it is more likely that a human erased it from the list of valid keys - likely because a PO lost the key and didn't want to risk that the finder will use it to steal his vehicle. Since a Securilok key and a "regular" key are indistinguishable from each other when viewing the list of valid keys registered in the vehicle, the 2 keys were erased from the list.

 

 

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On 10/20/2019 at 11:11 PM, eGuru said:

The Securilok is not programmed in the field - it comes "pre-programmed" with a unique ID. It is your vehicle that needs to be programmed to accept the Securilok ID as a valid key.

 

It is not likely that your Securilock is defective - it is more likely that a human erased it from the list of valid keys - likely because a PO lost the key and didn't want to risk that the finder will use it to steal his vehicle. Since a Securilok key and a "regular" key are indistinguishable from each other when viewing the list of valid keys registered in the vehicle, the 2 keys were erased from the list.

 

 

O.K. making sense now.  I kinda doubt she was too afraid of it getting stolen but maybe an ex spouse would not hand over his set of keys and then she had it ereaed.  Just guessing of course.  I have written to her to see if she deliberately erased it or if indeed the module has gone bad.  I'm trying to confirm if she has the second key for sure as she had a friend do the sale with me as I only talked over the phone with her.

 

     Is it safe to say that  for sure I need a second key programmed for this car to go any further to  diagnose this issue?  If, after getting a second key and it still won't work, then it only can be the Securilock module and or associated wiring??

 

Thanks!!

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I guess the 2009 doesn't have the setup display that shows the number of keys like the 2010+, I thought that you could see that in FORScan but I haven't rechecked that as I can see it on my 2012 in the Information Center in Setup (I checked how many admin keys I had programmed before adding some, and it went from 2 to 3 as expected).

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1 minute ago, bangster said:

I guess the 2009 doesn't have the setup display that shows the number of keys like the 2010+, I thought that you could see that in FORScan but I haven't rechecked that as I can see it on my 2012 in the Information Center in Setup (I checked how many admin keys I had programmed before adding some, and it went from 2 to 3 as expected).

Pretty sure I do not have that in the 2009.

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1 hour ago, Rebel Racing said:

     Is it safe to say that  for sure I need a second key programmed for this car to go any further to  diagnose this issue?  If, after getting a second key and it still won't work, then it only can be the Securilock module and or associated wiring??

Yes, you need a second programmed to go any further. Buy a third key and program it yourself so that you will always have 2 keys available.

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13 minutes ago, Rebel Racing said:

Well I guess that settles that........I have been told to avoid cloned keys--correct?

 

Hi RR. Correct, a cloned key will not help. A cloned key is a clone/copy of the first key, not a second programmed key. So when you insert the second key for programming, the security system will read it as though you reinserted the first key. Therefore, programming will fsil. Hope that is understandable.

 

Good luck.

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1 minute ago, bbf2530 said:

 

Hi RR. Correct, a cloned key will not help. A cloned key is a clone/copy of the first key, not a second programmed key. So when you insert the second key for programming, the security system will read it as though you reinserted the first key. Therefore, programming will fsil. Hope that is understandable.

 

Good luck.

Makes sense.  From what I have been told that most locksmiths are making clones and it is better to go to the dealer. 

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10 minutes ago, Rebel Racing said:

Makes sense.  From what I have been told that most locksmiths are making clones and it is better to go to the dealer. 

 

Hi RR. Yes, I would agree.

 

I would also agree with eGuru's advice to get two new IKT's, so you have three going forward. If the Dealer will program both along with your old key for the same price, great. If they will charge you per key for two new keys, have them program one with your old IKT, then you can reprogram all three yourself when you get home (since you will now have two programmed keys). 

 

Keep us updated and good luck.

Edited by bbf2530
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O.K.  Just talked to the PO....she tells me that indeed there is not a second key to be found.  Remote starter worked last winter and then during early summer it would only set off the alarm.  Now, when I go to use it everything will look normal on the IP but no start and the theft light flashes.  So, do I still need to get a second key, try to program the Securilock ans then if no luck get another module.  From what she is telling me, the lost key was not"removed" from the system.

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Upon further testing............for fun, I tried it again from outside the car...........when it should of started, the alarm goes off.  It's probably a good 4-5 seconds after pushing the button.  Everything is locked and closed.  The alarm will not go off if I try the remote while inside the car.  Thoughts??

Edited by Rebel Racing
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13 minutes ago, Rebel Racing said:

Upon further testing............for fun, I tried it again from outside the car...........when it should of started, the alarm goes off.  It's probably a good 4-5 seconds after pushing the button.  Everything is locked and closed.  The alarm will not go off if I try the remote while inside the car.  Thoughts??

Do you mean the pulsating horn sound generated by PATS or just a couple of horn honks?

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8 minutes ago, eGuru said:

Get the necessary 2 new keys programmed and a new battery if it is more than 3 years old. 

Troubleshooting can progress thereafter.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Got you on the key..I assume that you are referring about the car battery an not the remote batt.

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Slight update.........picked up a new battery today....definitely turns over faster so I am good for the winter but still no difference on the starter.  Looks like a duplicate key is next.  Crazy question.....should I put a new battery in the remote fob also--my guess is that if it activates the system then it is strong enough but I am wanting to eliminate everything as we progress.  Thoughts??

Edited by Rebel Racing
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3 hours ago, Rebel Racing said:

Slight update.........picked up a new battery today....definitely turns over faster so I am good for the winter but still no difference on the starter.  Looks like a duplicate key is next.  Crazy question.....should I put a new battery in the remote fob also--my guess is that if it activates the system then it is strong enough but I am wanting to eliminate everything as we progress.  Thoughts??

 

Hi RR. It certainly could not hurt to replace the battery in your remote keyfob. It the prior owner/owners never had it replaced, it could be ~10 years old. If nothing else, it may give you more range.

 

Keep us updated and good luck.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Another update.....just got a second key/programmed at the dealership--for a plain chip key it was very cheap.  I have put both keyes in the ignition to the ON position for 5 seconds and then tried the remote ( from a video I found on YouTube---I know, not everything is correct on the net though)....no difference.  Thoughts as to where to go next??

Edited by Rebel Racing
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