3.0 high mileage?

[frdnut]

Hey guys I am looking at buying a used fusion. I like the power of the V6 over the 4 cylinder but don't have any experience with either engine. How many trouble free miles is everyone getting out of the 3.0s? What would you consider high mileage. I am looking at one with 100000 miles on it.

Edited October 8, 2019 by frdnut

[bbf2530]

3 hours ago, frdnut said:

Hey guys I am looking at buying a used fusion. I like the power of the V6 over the 4 cylinder but don't have any experience with either engine. How many trouble free miles is everyone getting out of the 3.0s? What would you consider high mileage. I am looking at one with 100000 miles on it.

 

Hi frdnut. At 100,000 miles, remaining life of an engine has a lot to do with how it was maintained by the previous owner. All other variables being equal, the 3.0 V-6 is just as reliable as any other engine.

 

There is not way to tell, other than to carefully and rigorously check a used car out before buying. Like buying anything used, buying a used car is a gamble. So you will want to be sure how and by who those two cars are "certified" (from your other post), and exactly what that certification covers.

 

Let us know how you make out and good luck.

[WITTSTANG]

As the last post stated, "how it was maintained by the previous owner".

If you get it, the first thing you better do is check if it still has the original spark plugs installed. Usually you can tell because from the factory, the line workers would usually paint the tip of the spark plugs. At 100k, those plugs need to be replaced! You don't want to deal with the dreaded coil / PCM meltdown issue these cars have when the plugs are not replaced in a timely manner. Of course I learned the hard way.. At 156k, and original plugs still installed... MELTDOWN!  

Just had to replace the front and rear engine mounts also. Was getting a rattle in the front end that sounded like a bad front coil,  Haven't had any other big issues otherwise. Fairly easy to work on... 

[caveman]

Not to dig up an older thread but I currently own a 2006 Ford Fusion with a 3.0. It was a car I bought when I was still in college (in 2008 when the car was $13,000 and had 20,000 miles) and even though I have other cars now, it still is my daily driver. 

 

I have over 330,000 miles on it now with the original engine and transmission. What I can say is that the car has been phenomenal, but I've also maintained it very well throughout the time that I've had it. 

 

Things to check: 

 

1. Is the coolant reservoir full? If not, look at the water pump located on the right hand side of the engine where the short stretch belt is attached to the cam. If you see any sludge, it needs a new water pump.

2. Is there any whining? The alternators and compressors on these vehicles are very stout...I still have the originals in mine. They are starting to go now finally...but they will most likely whine to warn you that they are. 

3. Look in the front valve cover...is it still shiny underneath near the valves? If so, then most likely the person who owned it before took good care of it. These vehicles do not do well without regular oil changes for a number of reasons. The first being that the timing gear and the intake phasers rely very heavily on the quality of oil you use. If the oil is never changed, they can sludge up causing problems with the timing tensioners, chain, solenoids and phasers. While I personally would be willing to change the timing chain and phasers on mine if it came down to it, almost any mechanic, even Ford will tell you that it is a terrible job on these vehicles. Most will drop the engine and replace it. 

4. Check the fluid condition on the transmission. I've changed my transmission fluid every 40,000 miles with the exact specification (3x3 D&F) for fluid (it's expensive but worth it). The transmission still shifts flawlessly. 

5. If one coil goes, change them all along with the plugs. Many have had problems with the PCM and melting coils. Most of those individuals probably did not change the plugs or switch out their coils ever. I did...twice...not because any of them went out but because I knew that it could end up frying the PCM. There are services out there that will repair it but it's still expensive. 

6. The engine mounts are a weak spot. There are three that will most likely need to be replaced. The pass side engine mount is easy (although the bolts can get rusted in), the torque strut in the back (I haven't seen a single Fusion/Milan with one intact), and the mount under the battery. A symptom of bad mounts is vibration through the wheel. My car runs as smooth as ever, no vibrations...I've changed each mount though. 

7. Any misfire needs to be taken seriously. These vehicles have very expensive exhaust-manifold integrated catalytic converters. They are hard to change with the engine in the vehicle. If you let misfires go on for too long...expect that you'll have to drop the engine to replace the cats. 

8. The ball joints are a pain to replace. This is a job for a shop that has the right tools since the front subframe will need to be dropped to get the rear lower control arm removed. Check these first...it's an expensive job. Mine lasted 200K+ before I switched mine out but my suspension was in really rough shape by the time I had them replaced. I did most of it on my own, but the ball joints I sent to a shop. 

9. Don't forget to change the coolant with the right stuff (the Zerex yellow, not green, blue, orange, etc)

 

Bottom line is that if the owner took good care of the car, it has a lot of life left in it. My car has had the following replaced: 

 

1. Coils

2. Front valve cover gasket

3. Water pump

4. EGR Valve

5. Starter

6. Power Steering Pump 

7. Oil pressure switch

8. Pump and injectors (part of a life extension job). 

9. Wear and tear items. 

 

#2-8 have all been in the last year and some were done to keep the car running longer (it's still my favorite out of a 19 Outback 3.6, 2016 Accord V6, and 16 Jetta TSI). I still drive it because it's comfortable, smooth and has never left me stranded...but care is important. I don't have any doubt after the last time I hooked up my scantool (almost perfect fuel trims and cat performance) that I've got another 100K on this car. 

 

For any others looking for a good car at a bargain, a well maintained Fusion 3.0 V6 is an excellent choice. 

Edited December 19, 2019 by caveman

[bangster]

Quite an impressive feat and good info.

 

I was aiming for 333,333 out of my last car, but as you mention, as soon as you start letting things go, they stop behaving. I let enough little things build up that eventually I just didn't enjoy driving it, and let it get even worse.

[luizhumberto5]

On 19/12/2019 at 14:41, caveman said:

Não para desenterrar um tópico mais antigo, mas atualmente possuo um Ford Fusion 2006 com um 3.0. Era um carro que eu comprei quando ainda estava na faculdade (em 2008, quando o carro tinha US $ 13.000 e tinha 20.000 milhas) e, embora eu tenha outros carros agora, ainda é meu motorista diário. 

 

Eu tenho mais de 330.000 milhas nele agora com o motor e a transmissão originais. O que posso dizer é que o carro foi fenomenal, mas também o mantive muito bem ao longo do tempo em que o tive. 

 

Coisas a verificar: 

 

1. O reservatório de líquido de arrefecimento está cheio? Caso contrário, observe a bomba de água localizada no lado direito do motor, onde a correia elástica curta está presa à came. Se você vir algum lodo, ele precisará de uma nova bomba de água.

2. Há algum lamento? Os alternadores e compressores desses veículos são muito robustos ... Ainda tenho os originais nos meus. Eles estão começando a ir agora finalmente ... mas provavelmente vão reclamar para avisar que são. 

3. Olhe na tampa da válvula frontal ... ainda está brilhante por baixo, perto das válvulas? Nesse caso, provavelmente a pessoa que o possuía antes cuidou bem dele. Esses veículos não se saem bem sem trocas regulares de óleo por vários motivos. A primeira é que a engrenagem de distribuição e os phasers de admissão dependem muito da qualidade do óleo que você usa. Se o óleo nunca for trocado, eles poderão sofrer lodo, causando problemas nos tensores de sincronismo, corrente, solenóides e phasers. Enquanto eu, pessoalmente, estaria disposto a mudar a corrente de distribuição e os phasers da minha, se fosse o caso, quase qualquer mecânico, até a Ford lhe dirá que é um trabalho terrível nesses veículos. A maioria soltará o motor e o substituirá. 

4. Verifique a condição do fluido na transmissão. Troquei meu fluido de transmissão a cada 40.000 milhas com a especificação exata (3x3 D&F) para fluido (é caro, mas vale a pena). A transmissão ainda muda perfeitamente. 

5. Se uma bobina for trocada, troque-as sempre junto com os plugues. Muitos tiveram problemas com o PCM e as bobinas de fusão. A maioria desses indivíduos provavelmente nunca trocou os plugues ou trocou suas bobinas. Eu fiz ... duas vezes ... não porque nenhum deles saiu, mas porque eu sabia que poderia acabar fritando o PCM. Existem serviços por aí que o reparam, mas ainda são caros. 

6. As montagens do motor são um ponto fraco. Existem três que provavelmente precisarão ser substituídos. A montagem do motor no lado da passagem é fácil (embora os parafusos possam ficar enferrujados), o suporte de torque na parte traseira (não vi um único Fusion / Milan com um intacto) e a montagem sob a bateria. Um sintoma de montagens ruins é a vibração através da roda. Meu carro está tão liso como sempre, sem vibrações ... Eu mudei cada suporte. 

7. Qualquer falha de ignição precisa ser levada a sério. Esses veículos possuem conversores catalíticos integrados no coletor de escape muito caros. Eles são difíceis de mudar com o motor no veículo. Se você deixar os erros de ignição continuarem por muito tempo ... espere ter que largar o motor para substituir os gatos. 

8. As juntas da bola são difíceis de substituir. Este é um trabalho para uma loja que possui as ferramentas certas, pois o sub-chassi dianteiro precisará ser derrubado para remover o braço de controle inferior traseiro. Verifique estes primeiro ... é um trabalho caro. A minha durou mais de 200K antes de eu trocar a minha, mas minha suspensão estava em uma situação muito difícil no momento em que eu a substituí. Eu fiz a maior parte sozinha, mas as juntas de bola que enviei para uma loja. 

9. Não se esqueça de trocar o líquido de refrigeração com as coisas certas (o amarelo Zerex, não verde, azul, laranja, etc)

 

Resumindo, se o proprietário cuidou bem do carro, ele ainda tem muita vida. Meu carro teve o seguinte substituído: 

 

1. Bobinas

2. Junta da tampa da válvula frontal

3. bomba de água

4. Válvula EGR

5. Starter

6. Bomba de  direção hidráulica

7. Interruptor de pressão do óleo

8. Bomba e injetores (parte de um trabalho de extensão da vida útil). 

9. Itens de desgaste. 

 

# 2-8 foram todos no ano passado e alguns foram feitos para manter o carro funcionando por mais tempo (ainda é o meu favorito entre os 19 Outback 3.6, 2016 Accord V6 e 16 Jetta TSI). Eu ainda dirijo porque é confortável, suave e nunca me deixou preso ... mas o cuidado é importante. Eu não tenho qualquer dúvida após a última vez que eu ligado a minha scantool (quase perfeitos combustível guarnições e desempenho cat) que eu tenho outra 100K neste carro. 

 

Para quem procura um bom carro por uma pechincha, um Fusion 3.0 V6 bem conservado é uma excelente escolha. 

 

Congratulations on the car and good care!