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Need help desperately with no start issue after dead 12v replaced


DialysisMurse
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Hello! So I'm having a problem with my vehicle and my usual trusty Google fu is not helping track down an answer or even a starting point. Back story: fiancee may have left lights on which finally killed the 12v battery in the trunk or at least that's my working theory, the car was completely dead, I tried jumping it using the points under the hood and when I went to start it with the push button it blinked rapidly and a warning saying stop safely now came on the dash, which I found humorous as of course the car was already stopped! Anyway, I have some knowledge of your standard ICE Motors so figure the 12v battery is either going out or dead. Took the battery to parts store and it tested bad. Bought a new battery, replaced it and I'm still getting the blinking light from the start button and the warning to pull over safely now. My question is could there be a fuse that potentially blew when the 12v died? Is there a way to possibly reset the whole car? Any further diagnostic I can do to determine if this has caused a bigger problem like a dead HV battery? I can't afford to have it towed to a shop nor can I afford really replacing the apparently 6000 dollar battery. Any insights or tricks or sacrifices I can do to get this thing running again will be greatly appreciated. 

 

Additional info : car has 70,000 miles, it has the mykey type ignition (can't remember what it's actually called) all accessory lights work, 12v is a brand new battery, and when I push the button I can hear the normal clicking noise from around the car I've come accustomed to hearing, it just won't go into drive mode,and the stop safely now warning comes on. 

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Even though we know it is an Energi from the forum you posted to, year and model would be helpful as there are changes from 2013-2019 and differences between Intelligent Access key and not, even with push button start.

 

That fault is generally associated with the HVB.

Quote

Stop Safely Now Displays when the stop safety hazard warning lamp is illuminated. This indicates an electrical component fault/failure that will cause the vehicle to shut down or enter into limited operating mode.

 

If you can you might also try to get any DTC errors present, but it likely means a trip to the dealer. The HVB I think is covered to 100k.

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It's a 2013 energi, attempted to reset by removing battery terminal for 10 minutes, no change, now checking every fuse I can find. Can't afford trip to dealer this close to Christmas so guess I'm just going to hope it's a blown fuse somewhere from when we tried to jump start it. Thanks for your reply! 

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3 hours ago, bangster said:

Even though we know it is an Energi from the forum you posted to, year and model would be helpful as there are changes from 2013-2019 and differences between Intelligent Access key and not, even with push button start.

 

That fault is generally associated with the HVB.

 

If you can you might also try to get any DTC errors present, but it likely means a trip to the dealer. The HVB I think is covered to 100k.

Thanks for the reply, it's a 2013 and I'm now checking all fuses to see if anyone of them nay have blown during the attempted jump start. 

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Ok so more troubleshooting, checked every fuse I could find all were good, hooked. Voltmeter to the battery, getting 11.7/5 without car on, when I try to start car no change to volt, when I tried hooking another car up the volts went up to 12.8. Is this an indicator of anything? 

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2 hours ago, DialysisMurse said:

Ok so more troubleshooting, checked every fuse I could find all were good, hooked. Voltmeter to the battery, getting 11.7/5 without car on, when I try to start car no change to volt, when I tried hooking another car up the volts went up to 12.8. Is this an indicator of anything? 

 

Hi DM. Just to expand on the information bangster and eGuru have already provided: First, try locking/unlocking the doors using the remote. Then try starting.

 

I think eGuru may have been theorizing that your car had been disabled through the passive anti-theft system and locking/unlocking with the remote may allow starting. Of course, I could also be very mistaken. ?

 

Let us know how you make out and good luck.

Edited by bbf2530
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1 hour ago, bbf2530 said:

 

Hi DM. Just to expand on the information bangster and eGuru have already provided: First, try locking/unlocking the doors using the remote. Then try starting.

 

I think eGuru may have been theorizing that your car had been disabled through the passive anti-theft system and locking/unlocking with the remote may allow starting. Of course, I could also be very mistaken. ?

 

Let us know how you make out and good luck.

No luck with that but I was able to get a obd2 reader and got the following codes;

 

P0a0a safety devices? 

U0412 still looking up info for that one

U0111 lost communication with battery energy control module A

P0b37 service disconnect open 

 

If anyone can provide insight I would greatly appreciate it! 

 

For one of the codes it says a possible blown fuse on the HVB? Where is this fuse and is this possible or am I interpreting them wrong possibly? 

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All 4 of those are dealing with the the HVB, and 2 deal the service disconnect.

 

Page 156 in your Owners Manual shows that you fold down the seat, and the disconnect is there, I am not sure I follow where it is, but it is different PHEV and HEV, but there are pictures and steps.

Edited by bangster
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9 minutes ago, bangster said:

All 4 of those are dealing with the the HVB, and 2 deal the service disconnect.

 

Page 156 in your Owners Manual shows that you fold down the seat, and the disconnect is there, I am not sure I follow where it is, but it is different PHEV and HEV, but there are pictures and steps.

Ok, went in and pulled and put back in the orange disconnect in the vehicle, cleared codes and p0a0a continues to show up 

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  • 2 months later...

So just to update I was able to fix my issue so if anyone is googling around looking for help what fixed my problem was the interlock switch behind the rear seats. It's an orange pull out fuse, well apparently sometimes when the 12v battery goes out this interlock will flip open but it doesn't seem open. There is a small half circular slide type thing in the middle that needs to be slide over. So yeah all that diagnostic research, running wires back from the battery to the front of the car searching for a crimped wire then a uhaul tow dolly to the dealership the tech slid that part over and the car started. So yay for no major expense and boo for the absolute embarrassment of the problem. Hopefully this will help someone else before they waste 200 dollars to fix a non issue lol

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1 hour ago, DialysisMurse said:

So just to update I was able to fix my issue so if anyone is googling around looking for help what fixed my problem was the interlock switch behind the rear seats. It's an orange pull out fuse, well apparently sometimes when the 12v battery goes out this interlock will flip open but it doesn't seem open. There is a small half circular slide type thing in the middle that needs to be slide over. So yeah all that diagnostic research, running wires back from the battery to the front of the car searching for a crimped wire then a uhaul tow dolly to the dealership the tech slid that part over and the car started. So yay for no major expense and boo for the absolute embarrassment of the problem. Hopefully this will help someone else before they waste 200 dollars to fix a non issue lol

 

Hi DM. Thank you for posting back with your fix. It will probably help someone in the future.

 

Good luck.

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  • 6 months later...

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